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Old 05-27-2013, 09:11 AM   #51
meebs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0BlueSTi4 View Post
Have you looked into extracting heat from the engine bay? I'm thinking hood vents, front fender side vents, and front fender top vents(like S206) as well as front bumper side vents. Might be tricky to take pics of these as they work best at speed but might still be possible to see those in action with radiator fans on. I'm thinking with all the other cooling mods you have implemented those might have a good additive effect.
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Originally Posted by HeroCrank View Post
This would be a very challenging test to complete as you have stated that they are designed to work while the car is in motion.

As I recall from my old RS, simply opening the hood vents were relatively effective. Naturally holes in your hood are going to let hot air out. On the other hand, engines want to be at a certain operating temperature. So you would really want to think about why you need that extra cooling. Subaru already did all of the extreme hot weather testing and obviously found they didn't need any additional vents. Now if you are putting your car through extra stress or racing in a hot climate, etc, extra hood venting is a good consideration.

Proper ducting to control the flow of air to those vents would give you the best results however, with the engine bay as cramped as they are you are looking at some extensive customization.

Always a fan of Prodrive's work. One thing to note is that their vents always came from the IC. Under hood temps seemed to be under control.

Impreza WRC 2000:


WRC 2001:


WRC 2008:
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Last edited by meebs; 05-27-2013 at 09:14 AM. Reason: formatting
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Old 05-27-2013, 09:49 PM   #52
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awesome pics!
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Old 05-28-2013, 04:41 PM   #53
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Have you considered checking intake air temps along with this? Maybe a probe pre-MAF and pre-TB?
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Old 05-29-2013, 04:59 PM   #54
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Have you considered checking intake air temps along with this? Maybe a probe pre-MAF and pre-TB?
I have thought about this but I'm not sure exactly what piece of equipment that I would use.
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:01 AM   #55
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Thanks very much for this write-up. I was highly considering the GrimmSpeed heat shield and the DEI Ti exhaust wrap. This pretty much seals the deal for me. Also great to see test on a TMIC with plastic end caps. Obviously plastic is a poor heat conductor but it is still susceptible to heat soak.
A+ for the effort involved!
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:44 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeroCrank View Post

I have thought about this but I'm not sure exactly what piece of equipment that I would use.
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_i...888c6300cb0987
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Old 09-18-2013, 10:36 AM   #57
Brock Samson
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HeroCrank View Post
I have thought about this but I'm not sure exactly what piece of equipment that I would use.
The Cobb AP does this. Set the params during data log or live view.

Did you ever say what tester you were using to find engine temps? I'd be curious to know what my temps are and I'm trying to find a way to accomplish this.
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Old 09-18-2013, 11:13 AM   #58
the suicidal eggroll
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brock Samson View Post
The Cobb AP does this. Set the params during data log or live view.
Any OBD-II reader can do that, and all it's doing is reading from the ECU, which gets its IAT measurement from the MAF sensor, located far before the turbo. Wrapping the turbo, exhaust, adding turbo heat shields, etc. will have little to no effect on measured IAT at the MAF. You'd need to install more sensors to record both the pre- and post-turbo (and post-IC) temps for it to be of any use.
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Old 09-18-2013, 01:21 PM   #59
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Ah, so you're looking to get closer to the turbo but after the MAF?

I just figured if you had an AP you could use it. I don't normally have mine sitting out like some people. I'll take it out for dl's and that's about it.
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Old 02-23-2014, 11:21 PM   #60
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Old 02-24-2014, 11:30 AM   #61
dropdfocus
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Nice video!
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Old 02-25-2014, 01:49 PM   #62
jlangholzj
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Just saw this pop up and there's some good stuff in here but also some very misleading stuff.

Some of your driving vs idling measurements use a combination of spot vs averaging measurements. Of course the spot is going to be lower based on where you place it and the area max is going to grab the hot spot.

Also noted that the "idle" timestamp is later than the driving timestamp by only 2 mins or less at times? That's not long enough to reach a steady-state of whatever it should be at idle.

heat shield comparison - valid
TMIC - invalid. Different viewing angles and spot vs max area measurement. timestamp issue.
Turbo (driving) - Invalid. Appears to be same picture.
Turbo (idling) - valid. Also nice to see the temperature increase after the wrap. Means that its moving more heat down and should help it work more efficiently.
downpipe - invalid...kind of. Spot vs max makes it invalid. However since the downpipe is the hottest area of the frame the temperature gradient shows that in fact the temperature was lowered. Spread out yes, but lowered.

Also there's a problem here with the change in emissivity of the wrap vs the pipe. It will cause a difference, just not sure how much. For the purposes of this test I'd say you could get away with calling that negligible.

protip if you guys do any more testing is also to set the temperature gradient on the flir to a fixed max/min, use nothing but the area max measurements, and make certain that the point of measurement, distance and angle are consistent between measurements.
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