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Old 04-15-2020, 06:17 AM   #1
jeffambo
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2013 WRX Base Hatch
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Default Replacing speakers in 2013 WRX with Coaxials instead of components

Hi, so I replaced my stock HU with a Sony AX-1000 and I replaced all the speakers with cheap coaxials before I knew anything about speakers because I did the same in my last car and it made a big difference but my last car didn't have components.

So I'm wondering if I made mistake replacing the woofers with Coaxs and removing the tweeters. I originally left the tweeters in but the high HZ were too dominant, but because I didn't really compare before and after with the old speakers with new HU, I just put the speakers and HU in at the same time I don't know if the stock components would sound better than aftermarket speakers with the aftermarket headunit. I'm getting a new sub on friday because I didn't like how the system sounded with the first sub I got, it was a small powered 8" sub.

I'm hoping everything is going to sound great once I go from the powered 8" sub to a dual 12" passive sub. But do you think it's worth reinstalling my old components in the front over the new coaxials?

sorry if this is confusing, but basically, are cheap, new coaxials better than the stock components?
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Old 04-15-2020, 09:42 AM   #2
THX0849
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The original speakers are now 7 years old at least. Definitely worth replacing for longevity sake. On my 2019 the "Tweeter" in the dash has an online cap or resistor and runs parallel to the door speaker, your 2013 should be the same. Listen to the coaxs that are in there now with the sub, of you like it your golden. If you feel your missing something put in a component set up front but run new wires to eliminate the inline resistor thing.
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Old 04-18-2020, 03:31 AM   #3
gunz4me
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The bad thing about coaxial drivers is that the tweeters are usually aimed at your ankles, hence the reason I always used components... I did have some exceptions where the speaker was mounted higher in the door, but alas, that is not the case with the last two generations of Subaru WRX.
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Old 04-24-2020, 12:57 AM   #4
corlon
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i think your fine with the coax spkrs and leaving the factory tweeters disconnected. thats the setup i have. it all depends on what your ear hears and what your goals are. cheers.
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Old 04-25-2020, 03:27 AM   #5
12wrx1
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Mistake....the stock speakers for the 2013 wrx are good quality. You just need a better, headunit a sub and the speakers really liven up. you will also get better sound imaging with the components. If you have $999.00 to spend, look at OEM Audios package for the 13 wrx. Everything you need, cant go wrong.
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Old 04-25-2020, 09:18 AM   #6
THX0849
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Hi! What coaxial did you get? I would definitely recommend if its in the budget a cheap components set over coaxial in our front doors. Main reason being have the tweeter down there will bring the "sound" down, like its coming from the floor vs in front of you. The fact that we have stock locations up high for a tweeter makes it a big advantage to use it. The sound will come straight at you vs underneath. If you don't like super highs be sure what you get is either cloth dome tweeter or one that has the ability to "turn down" the tweeter output (-3 or -6 db) from the crossover. a $100 component set will definitely sound better than the coaxial. Hertz, Rockford and Kicker all have something that would work for you.

Last edited by THX0849; 04-25-2020 at 09:21 AM. Reason: edit
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:27 AM   #7
jeffambo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THX0849 View Post
Hi! What coaxial did you get? I would definitely recommend if its in the budget a cheap components set over coaxial in our front doors. Main reason being have the tweeter down there will bring the "sound" down, like its coming from the floor vs in front of you. The fact that we have stock locations up high for a tweeter makes it a big advantage to use it. The sound will come straight at you vs underneath. If you don't like super highs be sure what you get is either cloth dome tweeter or one that has the ability to "turn down" the tweeter output (-3 or -6 db) from the crossover. a $100 component set will definitely sound better than the coaxial. Hertz, Rockford and Kicker all have something that would work for you.
I actually ended up getting components but I'm having trouble with the tweeters being too harsh/tinny/loud but I'm still making adjustments, I've searched all over the web for ways to make the tweeters less harsh and there isn't a ton of answers. This is what happened when I replaced the woofers with coaxials and kept the stock tweeters, but I thought replacing the coaxials with woofers would solve the problem but it hasn't. I still have a crossover button that lowers the tweeters by -3db, but I'm not sure if it's already on that setting or not, I'm going to check today. I ended up putting the crossover in the door because I'm using the stock wiring and it wasn't long enough to put elsewhere. I'll update when I've made adjustments.

I'm going to try putting cloth or maybe even some sound deadening in the grill of the tweeter like you said. I'm even considering putting the tweeters down near the kickpanels. I'm so tired of this whole audio circus. On the plus side. I ended up getting the dual 12" MTX terminators to replace my powered 8"
sub and they are much much better, so the problems with low hz and the sub are gone, now I just need to fix the high Hz/
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Old 04-28-2020, 02:22 AM   #8
GoFrogs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffambo View Post
I actually ended up getting components but I'm having trouble with the tweeters being too harsh/tinny/loud; but I'm still making adjustments...
What brand/model components? Are they more efficient than the stock speakers? What are the minimum RMS ratings? Do they fall in line with what the new HU is supplying? Do they have a metal/PEI tweeter or a soft textile/silk dome tweeter? If metal/PEI, that might be part of the tinny/harsh issue. Soft/silk dome tweeters tend to be less bright and have a warmer sound.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffambo View Post
I still have a crossover button that lowers the tweeters by -3dB, but I'm not sure if it's already on that setting or not, I'm going to check today. I ended up putting the crossover in the door because I'm using the stock wiring and it wasn't long enough to put elsewhere. I'll update when I've made adjustments.
If you crack open the door panels again, put the balance/fade to that set of speakers and test the button out over and over and over. Use the same song and same segment of the song so you know what you are listening for. Neg 3dB is noticeable, but when it comes to tweeters, you really need to listen closely...

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffambo View Post
I'm going to try putting cloth or maybe even some sound deadening in the grill of the tweeter like you said. I'm even considering putting the tweeters down near the kick panels. I'm so tired of this whole audio circus.
Don't put sound deadner on your tweeters, no matter how neat you can make it. Cloth won't do much either, unless it has a tight weave or is felt-like in density. They sell adhesive backed felt and they also sell adhesive backed foam (2mm) at stores that sell crafts (like Walmart) for cheap if that is what you feel you must do, but don't expect the adhesive to to stay stuck very long, especially as it gets warmer. I'm still not a fan of putting material over the tweeters.

What is powering your tweeter/Speakers? Is it just the new HU? What adjustments can you make on the HU in the EQ? Are they gain adjustments in the HU?

Or, is there an external amp calling the shots? What are your gain settings? Can you turn the gain down any?

How much power are the speakers seeing (RMS/Peak)? Are they still set up as a 4 ohm load, or could they be less?
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