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02-10-2012, 02:34 AM | #26 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18960
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Bama
Vehicle:02 WRX MBP It lives! ; ) |
- Before/during assembly, you can't be too clean. Don't think a shiny new shortblock from Subaru was assembled with that in mind:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2662...56352912ZDXKJw - Find the best machinist in the area/region, and keep him supplied with his favorite beverage, green fees, food, etc. - Never spin rings on the piston. - Clean your freshly machined cylinder walls with brake cleaner initially, then again and again (and again) with tranny fluid. Install rings dry as a bone. Learn to use a product called "quick seat" by Total Seal. It's worth the time you'll put into prep. - Learn how the relationship between rings, cylinder finish and pistons work.. really....you'll never say your freshly machined cylinder walls are "clean enough" again. - Find out where you're at with camshaft buckets before the final assembly of your heads...tell your machinist what the lash should be, and you'll likely never have to buy another bucket. - Don't forget the PCV / scavenging system. I cringe when I read about people bypassing it and using only catch cans. I have a B15 that used 1.5 qts of oil every 100 miles, until I replaced the entire PCV system (the hoses looked great, but were occluded). Now its' usage is negligible. - If the acetone / tranny fluid trick won't help you with the stubborn fastener, apply heat and wax (like you're soldering). The wicking effect (or capillary action) will draw the wax into the threads and the fastener will break loose. I'll think of more as they rattle around. S.
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02-10-2012, 03:34 AM | #27 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 148974
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:2017 Forester XT Prodigal STi 600whp |
Quote:
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02-10-2012, 06:40 AM | #28 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:'03 Build'n a 2.12L 331whp/331wtq |
I also used a scissor jack to split my case.
I make my own thread chasers by cutting a slot through the threads of a bolt on either side with a dremel and cut-off disk. I also run a nut over it right after the cut to get rid of burrs if there are any. |
02-26-2012, 08:33 PM | #29 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
I hate to admit this, because I like to think that I am pretty savvy when it comes to mechanical issues but here is my request.
I need someone to tell/show me how to (easily) install the rear main seal. Every time I have done it, I struggle with it, and eventually get it in perfectly centered and proper, but it is ALWAYS the biggest pain in the A$$ for me on any short block I have touched so far. I just cant bring myself to buy the SST from Subaru, but have thought about making one unless someone can demonstrate (with pictures) that they have an easier solution.... The way I do it now is by using an old rear main seal as a driver of sorts, and tap around the perimeter until I get it started. I have NEVER in my life had as much trouble with a press fit seal as I do when I do rear mains. |
02-26-2012, 10:02 PM | #30 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8775
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Vehicle:2010 "Zed" 1000 Orange/White |
I like a little tool called a "Spill-Free" funnel, by Lisle. It makes filling coolant on a subaru a dream. No more gurguling, bubbling troubles!!!
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02-26-2012, 10:04 PM | #31 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 174442
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NNJ
Vehicle:2007 SuperWagon I don't spell well |
^ if you go to home depot and pick up a 4" round plastic grate, you can it fits the seal exactly. I just put it over the seal and tap it in gently.
For reference: |
02-26-2012, 10:29 PM | #32 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 259948
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region:
W. Canada
Location: Regina, Canada
Vehicle:MPS 510 whp GTX35R Long Rod Motor |
I know a great way to remove them is 2 wood screws. Slowly turn them a few threads in on opposing sides and pull. Works perfectly!
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02-26-2012, 11:47 PM | #33 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 112508
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Easton, PA
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We use the crank pulley to drive I rear main seals. Works perfectly
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02-27-2012, 01:27 AM | #34 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 108051
Join Date: Feb 2006
Chapter/Region:
AKIC
Location: Oneonta, NY
Vehicle:2005 WRX STi WRB |
Quote:
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02-27-2012, 01:47 AM | #35 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 158864
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Aussieland
Vehicle:2003 SOHC destroker |
a simple crank over of the engine is enough to break the crank pulley bolt. simply put a breaker bar on it and sit the end of the bar on the chassis rail & kick the engine over once.
the cam gears are bastards and i found if you have the type i do, getting a big fat screwdriver and sliding it down through them to "hook" on the heads as you undo it is the way to go. you can reuse the belt tensioner if you simple compress it in a metalwok vice. once you've got the hole lined up/piston pushed in far enough, a small nail makes the perfect "grenade pin" like they come from factory. always crack your pulley nuts ASAP when removing an engine. don't wait to get it out & then do it. same goes for the nuts on strut tops. the gearbox dowels can be easily punched out with a mallet/hammer & philips head screwdriver. or if you need to push them out from the male end first, simply hit them with the hammer until they're flush in with the surface and then use the screwdriver like a nail punch. Last edited by vicious_fishes; 02-27-2012 at 01:52 AM. |
02-27-2012, 10:38 AM | #36 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
Quote:
So is the 4" plastic grate from home depot. I'm going to try both in the next build for sure. |
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02-27-2012, 01:53 PM | #37 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 159743
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth Ma
Vehicle:07 STI Limited TurboMike Tuned 2.35 |
i install the rear main seal just before i seal up the block halves. slips right over the crank then you just get it in the right position and make sure it stays there. Haven't ever had a leak issue doing this
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02-27-2012, 03:51 PM | #38 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:06 WRX 30r 6 speed 99L EJ255 6 Speed |
Engine CLeaning Brush Kit
http://www.amazon.com/Moroso-61820-Engine-Brush-Kit/dp/B000CONYTS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330375816&sr=8-1 There are a lot of options out there, but this is what I found. Input is definitely welcome This kit covers all of the sizes I measured on my block, with the exception of a 1" and 4". I can just use something else on the bores anyway... Block Thread Chasers I also bought 4 ARP thread chasers. Bought from Lightning Motorsports in LA (the state). They had them in stock with free shipping, and low prices. 912-0012 M6 x 1.0 912-0001 M8 x 1.25 912-0002 M10 x 1.25 912-0004 M11 x 1.25 Oh, almost forgot. Oil Galley plugs are M18 1.50 Found that here on NASIOC. Have not found a chaser for them yet, but I think there may be a sparg plug hole chaser that will work. Last edited by aboothman; 03-10-2012 at 04:23 PM. |
03-04-2012, 12:03 AM | #39 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
Ok here is another good one.
This is an eye liner brush. Steal one from your chick/wife/babe or just go to the 99 Cent store and buy a few of them. This particular one is the PERFECT width for nearly EVERYTHING that gets gasket sealer on our engines. If you look closely at the opposite end, there is a rubber spatula which is AWESOME for getting the extra goo out of the small oil passages like the ones in the cam caps as you will see in the pics below. As you can see below, it does a fantastic job of spreading the Fuji Bond 1215 along the mating surfaces. It is also perfect for the oil pump mating surfaces and also for applying sealer to the threads of specific bolts that REQUIRE sealant as outlined in the FSM. Does a great job of allowing you to keep your fingers clean while you spread out the bond, and the brushes will last a while. You just clean them up with brake cleaner and a rag and they are good to go the next time you need them. The biggest advantage to these particular brushes is how short the bristles are. They are relatively stiff so it makes for a nice smooth, even bead without the mess normally associated with this task. Perfect bead, every time! |
03-04-2012, 01:32 PM | #40 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:'03 Build'n a 2.12L 331whp/331wtq |
Good idea Team! I guess I'll be robbing one of the many girls in my house of thier "tools" again
Snatched up one of thier brushes a few nights ago to clean my head and case threads after chasing them. I cut about 3/4 of the brush length down to make it work. The tape was just to be shure the head didn't fall off. |
03-04-2012, 06:19 PM | #41 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
double post
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03-04-2012, 06:19 PM | #42 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
Quote:
I use gun brushes for cleaning chased, threaded holes. They are made out of brass, bronze or hard plastic, they will accept a threaded extension rod, and by themselves or attached to the threaded extension rod can be chucked up in your cordless drill and absolutely sanitize threaded holes. Squirt some brake cleaner in the hole, run the brush driven by your drill up and down the hole a couple of times, re-spray with brake cleaner and blow with compressed air and viola SPOTLESS threaded holes. |
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03-05-2012, 08:03 AM | #43 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 93667
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cincinnati,Oh
Vehicle:'03 Build'n a 2.12L 331whp/331wtq |
Nice! I'll have to look into those.
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03-10-2012, 02:09 AM | #44 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:06 WRX 30r 6 speed 99L EJ255 6 Speed |
Ah ****... You posted those the day after I got my set of "engine cleaning brushes" lol!! Oh well they work for now.
I used the Dowel extraction trick today and it worked great. As it turns out the only m10 1.25 bolt I had that was long enough was an old case bolt. I use a combination of two 1/2" drive impact sockets and a wide 2mm thick washer against the case. I did not have to add any extra washers before the dowels came right out. With the case bolt you need about 6-6.25 inches of socket/ tubing for the case bolt to pass through. As mentioned before make sure the opening is large enough to pull the dowel into. |
03-10-2012, 12:07 PM | #45 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121532
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:06 FXSTi, 06 FXTAT 06 STi Wide Body Wagon |
Quote:
For anyone else, you can order gun brushes from Amazon, Brownells, Midway or Cabellas Here is a variety pack on Amazon that will work for most/all of the holes in the cases and heads http://www.amazon.com/Otis-Variety-Replacement-Nylon-Brushes/dp/B00162QFLE/ref=sr_1_101?ie=UTF8&qid=1331399153&sr=8-101 |
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03-10-2012, 03:50 PM | #46 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:06 WRX 30r 6 speed 99L EJ255 6 Speed |
Its cool... I have to figure things out for myself once in a while!!
What do you guys do to get the hex set screws out of the heads? I assume they are for the oil passages...and I want to get in there and clean everything out before sending them off for porting. |
03-10-2012, 03:56 PM | #47 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 289606
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Atlanta
Vehicle:06 WRX white |
Quote:
The constant heavy pressure is important and some times it takes over a minute and then it will just randomly break free. Matt |
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03-10-2012, 04:19 PM | #48 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 127745
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: CA
Vehicle:06 WRX 30r 6 speed 99L EJ255 6 Speed |
That makes sense. I already broke one 3/8 5mm bit lol, but it was a Kragen special.
Chasing Head Bolt Holes: Here is another contribution regarding the ARP thread chasing taps I posted above. When chasing Head bolt/stud threads, I found that a 1/4" drive 6 inch extension fits the 11mm chaser PERFECTLY when flipped upside down, and fits nicely inside the thread hole. You can then use your standard tap tool on the end where you normally put a socket, but I prefer using hand strength. If I cannot turn the chaser anymore, then I obviously need to take it out and clean it, or look for a stray chunk of metal. Or you can machine a couple grooves into an old Head Stud/ Bolt as one of you guys posted a while back |
03-11-2012, 05:26 PM | #49 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 111048
Join Date: Mar 2006
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: AA, Mi
Vehicle:I <3 debt |
To Remove the slide that holds the shift fork in place on the clutch..
simply use your battery tie down, screw into the end of the dowel, pull! grease it up so when you insert, or ever need to take it out its smooooooth. thats all i can think of at the moment. |
03-18-2012, 10:27 PM | #50 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 257434
Join Date: Sep 2010
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Central MA
Vehicle:2011 BMW 328xi LeMans Blue |
Quote:
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