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04-30-2013, 12:19 PM | #476 | |
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04-30-2013, 12:32 PM | #477 |
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I have a Note 2 looks like I'd be alright with the app working... Hmm idk what way of want to go now... Really worried about battery and heating issues on the N7 but that radio app and cord are like $500 all said and done... Hmmmmm
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05-02-2013, 08:13 AM | #478 | |
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To answer the iphone bit, I run a Pioneer AVH P4300 DVD, and A jailbroken 3GS (in car permanently, I use a 4s for everyday BS) I installed on my 3gs a Cydia app called "Display Out" that can literally display my 3gs on any screen with a lot of customization. I plan on mounting my 3gs in my ash tray bezel so I can view it when not projecting it on my pioneer. So far I have had it like this for 4 months, there is literally NO LAG. It looks amazing. I run Rev right now. I plan on making custom gauges in dash command. I had a couple but they dont refresh that fast due to my foresters year so I will most likely just have temp gauges running through it. |
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05-03-2013, 03:06 AM | #479 |
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Thanks everyone with all the ideas!
I finally finished most of my N7 install, thought I'll post some pictures I took along the way. This is on a Canadian 2012 Impreza sport. basically trying to make things "look stock" and work better than stock. Test fitting my 3D printed bezel. Material i used is frosted detail plastic from shapways. Painted with a spray can, designed was done in google sketchup. This is my power supply and SWC control module paired with arduino leonardo below. That regulator in the middle is a LM2576-5 by TI which outputs up to 3A@5V, should be plenty to power everything I need. PCB ordered from OSHPark, parts from Mouser. Circuit/PCB designed in Eagle. The relays and resistors is basically a SWC controlled by arduino. All SWC key presses are passed to the module, then the module decides whether to pass it on to stock head unit or send key presses to N7. This gives me full control over the steering wheel buttons. I have it programmed so that: vol up/vol down - retain stock functionality track up - map to android MEDIA_NEXT, or hold 1 sec - send KEY_LEFT_GUI+m (google maps) track down - map to android MEDIA_PREVIOUS, or hold 1 sec - maps to android HOME talk button - send KEY_LEFT_GUI+v(voice search), or hold 1 sec - stock functionality mode/on hook/off hook - retain stock functionality, I probably will map these to HOME/BACK/APP_SWITCH later on and disable the soft nav bar for more screen space. Thanks SVXDC for the harness! Couldn't find these anywhere else... It would be a PITA if I have to cut factory wires. Basically using this to tap into SWC and 12V power. Trying to see if i can retain N7 NFC functions, and it worked flawlessly! That plastic panel is the one sitting above of the head unit, behind the panel I have a simple NFC coil/antenna made out of thin wires. Testing it out with my phone. Tablet secured and wires connected, I had to trim off some plastic, but nothing major. the green/white wire connects to NFC antenna, the rest (6 wires) are the hardware buttons. Towards the bottom is a mic cover I made out of cardboard, so that the N7 can hear me better when I hit the talk key and say things like Navigate to Mcdonalds An USB cable soldered to that hirose plug, just so I can use the USB port in the armrest storage compartment. This is the head unit with its front panel separated but still connected. The panel is held down by a couple screws and plastic clips, connected by 2 board to board connectors. What I did was desolder the connectors and solder some old ATA33 cables I had in between, effectively "extended" these connectors. The head unit will not operate if the front panel is not connected. With the front panel removed there is ALMOST enough space(about 2mm short) to fit the tablet in between. I had to drill new holes in the mounting bracket on either side, the head unit is now mounted about 1cm futhur in. The two ugly blocks are made out of wood and foam, to secure and "sandwich" the tablet. Make sure I do everything I need with the head unit front panel, like set up speed volume and pair my phone, then tuck everything in and put everything back. Also had to set up all the tasker automations. Power, vol up vol down on the right, a hole on the left for ambient light sensor, and 2 holes in the corner for mic input. On top a white dot marks the NFC induction point. Unfortunately the printed bezel is actually 2mm short in width and 1mm short in height, still checking with shapeways and see if they can send me a replacement... For now the only downside for me is I only get 1 AM and 1 FM radio station, I set these up before I tuck in the head unit panel, and use steering wheel Mode key to cycle through FM AM and AUX if I ever need them. I've been running this for a couple days, loving it so far! Last edited by cs1986; 05-03-2013 at 03:38 PM. |
06-04-2013, 01:40 PM | #480 |
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Hey guys, loving this thread! I don't have a Subie, or much of a reputation here either, but I want to try and do something like this. I've gotten a lot of inspiration from reading so many success stories.
So, a little bit about my car... It's a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S and I obviously want to use a Nexus 7 for the head unit. I'm going to wait to see what Google' new tablet will be about, but that's not so important. I plan on just recessing my current head unit and putting the tablet over it. I also want to make it removable, which will require some fabrication, and I also plan to run a USB hub. Now, here's where I'm a little bit different (I think) from most of you... I'm going to try and use this: picoPSU 12V 120W PSU 1. ^^^ Above PSU 2. http://www.amazon.com/Release-Charging-Adapter-3-5-foot-Included/dp/B00B7FLPBU 3. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YPYORM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&psc=1?tag=citofgamonlco-20 I want to mount the PSU up in the dash, close to the Nexus 7 to cut down the length of cable needed for that. The hub will hopefully be mounted in the center arm rest between the passenger and driver side for easy access. From what I understand, the PSU can provide separate 12V and 5V, but I have a post over at mp3car.com waiting for approval, hopefully somebody over there will help me. If that works, I can use the 12V for the USB hub, and the 5V for the tablet. I'm under the impression that you can add different connectors to the PSU's power lines, so I'll use a Micro-USB to plug into the cable I listed above, and the proper connector for the USB hub. Then I just plug the hub's USB cable into the USB connection on the Y-cable and away we go (in theory)! |
06-07-2013, 05:06 PM | #481 |
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Nexus 7 is a USB 2.0 device. So you don't need a 3.0 hub, it'll fall back to 2.0 speed anyway. I'd say just use a simple 2.0 hub that requires no external power.
Not sure what you are planning to hook up, but 12V 120W is a lot. Let's say it steps down to 5V at 80% efficiency, that gives you 19A@5V. The Nexus 7 only change at 0.5A via OTG, or if you run timur's rom you can have it charge at up to 1.8A. 19A seems like an overkill. I personally runs a 3A supply, 3A is plenty for powering N7 and a couple additional USB devices. |
07-29-2013, 09:13 PM | #482 |
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what is the biggest issues that you guys have run into, those of you that have done this. I really want to try it, and I think I have the sound figured out, as I should just be able to run a line out of my N7 then to a potentiometer then to the amp I have mounted under the passenger seat. The biggest concern that I have at the moment is the issue of when I don't drive the car for a while how to get it to start back up. I would prefer to not have to hack into the tablet, as I would like to possibly use this out of the car as well, maybe later down the road.
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07-30-2013, 10:07 AM | #483 | |
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Your PCB is absolutely incredible. Nice work all around dude. How much would you want to replicate that PCB for me? |
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07-31-2013, 04:56 PM | #484 |
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OK guys this thread is amazing and full of great information. I'm going to attempt this soon when prices lower for the n7 since the second gen. will be out.
1 question, what is the best and easiest way to get power to the n7? is there a cigarette lighter connector/charge that will solve the charging solution? I want to run that charging wire down to the armrest cig charger if possible, but if not I can run it down the console to the main cig charger. |
08-07-2013, 03:49 AM | #485 |
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So I just installed my N7 into my 2013 wrx, I recessed the oem deck then trimmed the bezel to fit the N7 but I can't get it to charge, this is my power setup: otg micro to female type A then a type A male to male usb extension cable 6ft plugged into a 2A car charger in my cig lighter. It won't charge... but if I use any cable from a moto or other phone charge cable it does. What an I doing wrong and how do I fix it.
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08-11-2013, 10:49 AM | #486 | |
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08-12-2013, 04:55 PM | #487 |
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So am I better off making a shorted USB cable like everyone else doing for charging at full strength?
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09-10-2013, 10:09 PM | #488 |
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nice job
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09-11-2013, 03:28 PM | #489 |
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so you cant bluetooth pair your phone to the tablet and stream pandora from your phone to the tablet? or i guess if you have mifi you can just stream pandora on the tablet to your head unit...?
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09-15-2013, 12:28 AM | #490 | |
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what apps do you need to tether your nexus to your data package? i have unlimited data ( rare i know right) haha. and i'd love to do that. |
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09-15-2013, 02:52 AM | #491 |
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cs1986's circuit uses the relays and fixed resistors to simulate pressing all of the SWC buttons on the wheel.
When I thought about this awhile back, it occurred to me to search for "digital potentiometers", and I found that they do indeed exist. Check out the Microchip Technology Inc. MCP41X2 (single) and MCP41X2 (dual). Those are both rheostats (the variable resistors only have 2 terminals), which is all you need for this application. They also make digital pots (3-terminal resistors). I'm sure there are also many others from other manufacturers. Using one of those would simplify the circuit considerably, yet give the flexibility to be programmed to talk to any Subaru HU (or for that matter, other cars that use resistive SWCs). A 5 k ohm part with 8-bit divide should work. I think the OEM HUs have enough tolerance (e.g., if you send it 19 ohms, that's close enough to 22 ohms for it to read it as "mute"). Subaru SWCs have a parallel resistor that the HU sees when there are no buttons pressed. You would need to include a similar resistor in your circuit (4.7 k for cars without the phone/BT buttons, or 100 k for cars with phone/BT buttons). To design a circuit that can work in any Subaru, the digital resistor on the first channel (pin 4 on the 20-pin radio harness) would need to allow the fixed resistor to be switchable with either 4.7 k or 100 k. The fixed resistor on the second channel (Subaru pin 13 for Impreza/Forester/Crosstrek or pin 11 for Legacy/Outback) can always be 100 k. See cars' resistor values here. |
09-17-2013, 10:02 AM | #492 |
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tablet
pretty sweet, in the first pic it looks like it just covers the pioneer deck.
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09-19-2013, 04:16 PM | #493 |
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So here is my question. Is it possible to push back the stock stereo in a 2011 WRX and lay the nexus 7 over the top of it? I feel like if you can push that radio back it may be the simplest solution but i have no idea how much room you have behind it. But by doing that you could save yourself some money. If you were willing to put the time in i'm sure you could make the tablet removable and keep the radio placed nicely behind it.
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09-19-2013, 07:01 PM | #494 | |
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Edit: Factory head unit, ipad mini over top, not exactly what you asked for since he didnt push factory out, but figured it might give you ideas... http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2547674 Last edited by 00camaro16; 09-19-2013 at 07:24 PM. |
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09-20-2013, 11:13 AM | #495 | |
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09-20-2013, 01:16 PM | #496 |
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Agreed, but maybe some ideas. if you figure it out let me know, would like to do it as-well but keep the factory bezel.
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09-20-2013, 05:47 PM | #497 |
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Going to be doing a similar setup soon! minus the JVC, using an equalizer then to amps!
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09-23-2013, 02:04 PM | #498 | |
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Last edited by ScubyPhilly; 09-23-2013 at 02:10 PM. |
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09-23-2013, 08:28 PM | #499 |
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^
wireless charging ;-) |
10-09-2013, 12:49 PM | #500 | |
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Amazing, this is really well done, obviously a lot of time put into it, very nice. I’m in the middle of my own set up and I had a new questions. Did you create the Sketchup model yourself? I use Sketchup quite a bit, but don’t think I could do something like that. I imagine, the compound curves of the dash are a bitch to get right. I’d love to see the file if you’re willing to share it. Are you using Timur’s ROM to charge and OTG? I didn’t see the volume controls at the bottom of the screen, but maybe you didn’t turn that on. Are you controlling the Nexus 7 via OTG? From the Arduino USB to the Nexus 7 OTG? Is that a UNO ? If so, did you reprogram the Atmega8U2 for HID. I tried this, but couldn’t get it to work. I was trying to use the FLIP application. I assume the resistors on the PCB are to send different resistor levels to the head unit, emulating the SWC. How is that circuited, is that what the relays are for ? |
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