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Old 12-28-2012, 01:29 PM   #251
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustin

Now that's good to hear! And I will definitely document anything I do, I just need to do a lot of stripping and body work. So it'll probably be summer before I get any painting done on the car. And one more question for you. Would the gun work with a much smaller compressor? Like a 6 gallon, 1 hp compressor for painting smaller items, such as furniture or a fridge for other projects around the house, or should I also invest in a harbor freight gun for those sort of projects?
Thank you for your time. -Connor
It really depends on the guns requirements. You can get away with using a less than ideal compressor. The gun will lose pressure though, and results will be less than desirable. Especially shooting clear. Save money and invest in a good compressor! Check Craigslist and the newspaper.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:30 PM   #252
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryanfaas
Hi,

Hoping someone can help me out here. I'm a fairly new subaru owner. I bought a 2012 impreza sedan 5spd base model back in August. I love it so far but I stupidly backed into a dumpster over the weekend trying to get out of a packed parking lot

I didn't snap any pics yet but I'm going to need a new trunk lid. There is a pretty nice crease in the lid and I think I'm digging a deeper hole if I try to get someone to repair it. The dealership I bought the car from was no help whatsoever and refused to give me a quote without seeing the car. I got a quote for the part from another dealership for $498.15 but that doesn't include paint or anything.

I have had trouble finding a trunk lid online for my year impreza. Will 2011 and older fit? How do you suggest I go about fixing this?

Thanks
Post a picture of the damage if you get a chance. This will help me determine if it can be repaired or if a new trunk will be necessary.
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Old 12-28-2012, 01:35 PM   #253
vogun16
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JDM V7/8/9 RA-R Rotated

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Hi guys,

I am looking to paint parts of my engine bay in the near future. What are the steps to paint over the finish that is there? Also there are some small spots of surface rust around the batter which is typical, how should I prep that to paint with the rest of the bay?
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Old 01-02-2013, 09:14 PM   #254
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vogun16
Hi guys,

I am looking to paint parts of my engine bay in the near future. What are the steps to paint over the finish that is there? Also there are some small spots of surface rust around the batter which is typical, how should I prep that to paint with the rest of the bay?
Degrease the bay extremely well. Use 400 grit sandpaper to sand out any scratches or chips. Then use a grey scotch bright and some scuffing compound to scuff all surfaces to be painted. Remove any "shine". Most bays are barely cleared so it's pretty easy. Seal with a DTM primer, base, clear.

To remove the rust, give my other thread a read:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2245842

Let me know if you need anything else.
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Old 01-03-2013, 10:32 AM   #255
wrxracer519
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Matt, where in CT are you? I have the rust on the edge of the rear wheel arches and want to see about getting them repaired before it gets worse.
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Old 01-08-2013, 08:00 PM   #256
bl0wnb0xerbabiE
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what is a ballpark range price to get entire 2006 wrx oem repainted obsidian black pearl?
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:05 AM   #257
HardwareLust
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I have a question:

What is the proper way to fill in a small rock chip on a 2011 SWP car? With the tri-coat paint, do I need to fill in all 3 coats to get it to match well?

I have one on my hood, and I can see there is white underneath the chip. I'm assuming that white color is the basecoat, so I just need the pearl topcoat and the clearcoat? I also have two tiny dings on my rear bumper, and those are black, so I'm assuming that's chipped all the way down to the plastic, so I'll need to fill in the base, top and the clearcoat?
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:53 AM   #258
konradlip
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PLEASE HELP

i got my car 6 months ago and both the fron and rear bumpers were scratched and clear was cracked. i dont have money to profesionally repaint them so i want to do it myself. while getting them painted ill probably do the sideskirts as well. my qestion is what do i need to do the job? what primer, where to get the best match for psm, what clear to use, what spray gun should i get. basically everything. i have some experience in spraying metal and such but never a plastic bumper. also the front bumper has few deep scratches on the bottom that will need to be filled. what shoukdmi use for them? thanks
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Old 01-12-2013, 01:36 PM   #259
braydeno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konradlip View Post
PLEASE HELP

i got my car 6 months ago and both the fron and rear bumpers were scratched and clear was cracked. i dont have money to profesionally repaint them so i want to do it myself. while getting them painted ill probably do the sideskirts as well. my qestion is what do i need to do the job? what primer, where to get the best match for psm, what clear to use, what spray gun should i get. basically everything. i have some experience in spraying metal and such but never a plastic bumper. also the front bumper has few deep scratches on the bottom that will need to be filled. what shoukdmi use for them? thanks
You don't always need to go from the ground up, if your primer and color are still good there is not always a need to lay them back down. The biggest things you will need is a booth if you have access. Then I would invest in a iwata. Depending on how much you will use it either a w400 or air gunza. Go visit your local body supply store and see what paint lines they carry. Also don't forget a plastic adhesion promoter
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:04 PM   #260
HXC573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braydeno View Post

You don't always need to go from the ground up, if your primer and color are still good there is not always a need to lay them back down. The biggest things you will need is a booth if you have access. Then I would invest in a iwata. Depending on how much you will use it either a w400 or air gunza. Go visit your local body supply store and see what paint lines they carry. Also don't forget a plastic adhesion promoter
Will the plastic adhesion promoter need to be used both during primer and base . Hot three deer within the past 4 months ( I hate Missouri) and bumper is completely sanded and ready to be sprayed with primer, I have an I've metallic silver hatch and scared it won't blend right . I have a booth I can use and a darker digital 4000b
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:06 PM   #261
HXC573
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HXC573 View Post

Will the plastic adhesion promoter need to be used both during primer and base . Hot three deer within the past 4 months ( I hate Missouri) and bumper is completely sanded and ready to be sprayed with primer, I have an I've metallic silver hatch and scared it won't blend right . I have a booth I can use and a darker digital 4000b
Ice metallic silver**
Sata jet** not darker
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:13 PM   #262
konradlip
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PSM

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Well the scratches are all the way to bumper plastic and also there are the spider web cracks. As for the psm color did any of you use the psm from grimmspeed or maybe get few touchup kits from the dealer and open them up into a spray gun?
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Old 01-12-2013, 11:38 PM   #263
konradlip
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also as it comes to spray guns what about the wagner optimus?
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:41 AM   #264
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bl0wnb0xerbabiE View Post
what is a ballpark range price to get entire 2006 wrx oem repainted obsidian black pearl?
Too vague of a question, without enough details.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:46 AM   #265
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HardwareLust View Post
I have a question:

What is the proper way to fill in a small rock chip on a 2011 SWP car? With the tri-coat paint, do I need to fill in all 3 coats to get it to match well?

I have one on my hood, and I can see there is white underneath the chip. I'm assuming that white color is the basecoat, so I just need the pearl topcoat and the clearcoat? I also have two tiny dings on my rear bumper, and those are black, so I'm assuming that's chipped all the way down to the plastic, so I'll need to fill in the base, top and the clearcoat?
I don't fill many rock chips, normally I just sand and repaint. I would touch it up with the base, then dab on some pearl on top, block smooth with 1000, dab clear, then block with 1500, buff.

Yes, if there is black it is raw plastic. depending on the size of the chips you may want ot apply some adhesion promoter.
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Old 01-23-2013, 10:49 AM   #266
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by konradlip View Post
also as it comes to spray guns what about the wagner optimus?
A definite no.
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Old 02-06-2013, 10:12 AM   #267
griffinwert
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Sedona Red Pearl

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Hi Matt, I had a question about my 2002 PSM that I resprayed last night, just did the bumpers and the trunk. I ran into an issue towards the final coat, I looked in my my paint and saw that a lot of the paint metallic had settled to the bottom of the quart. So I tried to mix the flakes into the paint, but when I got to the final coat, my gun shot out a blast of flakes on the trunk! They look like a PSM sneeze! I'm wondering if I can just sand it out, or do I need to go and get another quart of paint? Also when I painted the trunk I had it flat, but felt like I should have had it up at an angle, it felt awkward shooting the top, what do you usually do?
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Old 02-06-2013, 07:58 PM   #268
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffinwert
Hi Matt, I had a question about my 2002 PSM that I resprayed last night, just did the bumpers and the trunk. I ran into an issue towards the final coat, I looked in my my paint and saw that a lot of the paint metallic had settled to the bottom of the quart. So I tried to mix the flakes into the paint, but when I got to the final coat, my gun shot out a blast of flakes on the trunk! They look like a PSM sneeze! I'm wondering if I can just sand it out, or do I need to go and get another quart of paint? Also when I painted the trunk I had it flat, but felt like I should have had it up at an angle, it felt awkward shooting the top, what do you usually do?
Sorry to hear that man. Were you using single stage or base/clear?

When I'm painting a trunk I normally just rest it on a stand and the "top" is at about 45*. Laying it flat has no negative ramifications, and if you're using a clear you can hammer it on.
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Old 02-07-2013, 09:31 AM   #269
griffinwert
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Thanks Matt, I just got off the phone with the body shop that last painted the car, and it turns out that the guy at the paint shop screwed up. First the guy gave me a data sheet with the wrong reducer, so that was the first problem with the paint. Secondly the guy who painted the car used both an activator, and a 3 clear coats over the one stage. He said thie activator is because on these metallics if you don't use it, the metallic will streak. Just goes to show always double check your paint with the people who have done it, or triple checks with paint guys, like Matt. So does any of this sound accurate?
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:27 PM   #270
Arwing19
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I am looking to re-paint my bumper spark silver on my 2009 Wrx. There are tons of paint chips in it and it is only going to get worse. I need a detailed set of instructions on how to a. Fill in the chips/make it look flush b. prep the bumper c. Paint it d. If possible prevent it from happening again (not using a clear bra) and a set of materials. Thanks!
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Old 02-08-2013, 04:46 AM   #271
nola
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I am thinking of getting my whole car painted the same color to freshen it up. Now I brought my car to a shop to get a estimate on some motor work. While I was there bull****ting around I was talking to the painter asking question like how much to fix this scratch and that door ding etc.. A little while later I was like well hell, how much to re-paint the whole thing the same color.( no jams, just outside) He replied, I will give you a killer deal and repaint the car for $1300 and wet sand and buff it to a mirror shine for a extra $200.. He told me to call around and I would see that it was a killer deal. Now I knew when he told me the price, it sounded very cheap. For this price I would assume he would NOT take my door handle, bumper, etc.. off and would only tape them and spray(but I don't know) I have seen some of his work as someone that works at the shop had him repaint most if not all of his front end on a 08'ish wrx and it looked/matched perfect as far as I could tell but I am not a painter and did not inspected it with a magnifier plus I know nothing about paint. So, what do you think? can I get a good paint job for $1500?? If he only is going to tape my car and spray for that price should I offer to take everything off myself to have it done the correct way? I need some feedback. Thanks
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Old 02-08-2013, 09:05 AM   #272
Jackie leggs
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atomic orange pearl

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The more you do on your own (taking off handles, lights, mirrors,.....) the les he will have to do and the better it will turn out. I would talk to him more to see about what you can do to assist the process.
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Old 02-08-2013, 11:22 AM   #273
LUMBERZACK
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Hey Matt, this isn't a question about painting a car, but I do a lot of airbrushing and have a question for you. I use Createx water-based paints for all my projects, I'm not sure if you are aware of the product or not, but you can buy it at most any craft store in 2 oz. bottles. My aunt wants me to airbrush her motorcycle helmet, which I am confident in doing, but I was curious to see if you would know if I could use the createx paint (i'm trying not to use Urethane paints like House of Color, auto air, ect.) and I could spray a professional clear with hardener over my artwork to make in look 'factory painted' if you will.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:40 PM   #274
aphilli85
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White

Default Roof leaks

Ok so I got my 99 OBS back on the road after rebuilding the engine and now I've noticed that the roof appears to of developed a leak which I believe to be right at the top of the windshield.

Does anyone have any advice on how to repair this on a budget?

FYI: I do have autobody experience I just haven't had to do anything around a windshield except painting

Thanks
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Old 02-12-2013, 08:38 AM   #275
MattTHEpainter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griffinwert View Post
Thanks Matt, I just got off the phone with the body shop that last painted the car, and it turns out that the guy at the paint shop screwed up. First the guy gave me a data sheet with the wrong reducer, so that was the first problem with the paint. Secondly the guy who painted the car used both an activator, and a 3 clear coats over the one stage. He said thie activator is because on these metallics if you don't use it, the metallic will streak. Just goes to show always double check your paint with the people who have done it, or triple checks with paint guys, like Matt. So does any of this sound accurate?
That doesn't make much sense. I think it may be lost in translation because you may not be entirely familiar with auto body nomenclature. So he clear coated over a single stage? The metallic shouldn't streak if the color was properly mixed, then strained prior to putting into the paint hopper. If you can get me more details I'd be glad to help.
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