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Old 01-14-2013, 02:02 PM   #4401
MidnightSti05
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGT View Post
which? the MT/R or KM's?
Oh I see, whatever is mounted on your 5th wheel.
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:14 PM   #4402
PGT
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MT/R's. The others are stock Rubicon KM's.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:08 PM   #4403
ecb12
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Did it fix your issue? I had the exact same pull on my '12 Rubi with 35 MTRs
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:55 PM   #4404
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100% yes.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:10 PM   #4405
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Quote:
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What kind of power are they putting down with the tunes/bolts?

There's a 5.9 for sale up here for $3200, and although I don't have anywhere near that much, it's got me interested in them. I wanted a 5.9 Dakota for years, but I'd rather have a 5.9 ZJ.
for myriad reasons, the grand cherokees tend to be faster stock for stock, and mild mod for mod, than the dakotas. The dak's CAN fit a nice set of longtubes however, and that's where they'll start showing a difference from the gc's. Still a cold day in hell to get one to out-launch the jeep though

I've never thrown either of mine on a dyno, so i couldn't say. There are others with similar mods who have, however, and while the HP numbers are hard to get out of the 200's with just bolt ons... the torque gets pretty impressive - approaching 400 lbs isn't unheard of in an otherwise healthy 5.9 - and its a FAT torque band - not peaky, just meaty. If you've ever been a classic mopar fan, it's pretty much the same formula.. everything about this motor responds the way a classic v8 would - these magnums are little changed from their 50's and 60's ancestors.

in the black one, the mild cam doesn't really make more peak power (might make an extra 7-10hp, and similar tq) - but it makes a good deal more power under the curve.. again never having dyno'd myself, some guys on the jeep forums are reporting gains of +35lbs in the 2500-3500 rpm range.

If you do look to get one - they do have some very specific (but potentially expensive) common problems that you should look out for when buying. They're pretty solid, and mostly unstoppable, but there are things to be aware of - hit me up if you start shopping
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:58 AM   #4406
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I'm going tomorrow to look at a 98 Grand Cherokee, supposed to be a limited. Not sure what motor. Has 172,000 miles on it, $1,500.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:31 AM   #4407
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Now with new shoes.

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Old 01-17-2013, 09:35 AM   #4408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Goatcrapp View Post
for myriad reasons, the grand cherokees tend to be faster stock for stock, and mild mod for mod, than the dakotas. The dak's CAN fit a nice set of longtubes however, and that's where they'll start showing a difference from the gc's. Still a cold day in hell to get one to out-launch the jeep though

I've never thrown either of mine on a dyno, so i couldn't say. There are others with similar mods who have, however, and while the HP numbers are hard to get out of the 200's with just bolt ons... the torque gets pretty impressive - approaching 400 lbs isn't unheard of in an otherwise healthy 5.9 - and its a FAT torque band - not peaky, just meaty. If you've ever been a classic mopar fan, it's pretty much the same formula.. everything about this motor responds the way a classic v8 would - these magnums are little changed from their 50's and 60's ancestors.

in the black one, the mild cam doesn't really make more peak power (might make an extra 7-10hp, and similar tq) - but it makes a good deal more power under the curve.. again never having dyno'd myself, some guys on the jeep forums are reporting gains of +35lbs in the 2500-3500 rpm range.

If you do look to get one - they do have some very specific (but potentially expensive) common problems that you should look out for when buying. They're pretty solid, and mostly unstoppable, but there are things to be aware of - hit me up if you start shopping
Awesome!

I'm not looking for a powerhouse, just was wondering what kind of gains can be seen out of the engine as I've heard it's pretty stressed from the factory.

Thanks for the info, and I'll hit you up with a PM if I ever do decide to jump on board!
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:42 AM   #4409
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Now with new shoes.

clip-on weights? did you kick the shop that mounted them for you?
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:46 AM   #4410
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clip on weights on AEVs!? id kill someone.
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Old 01-17-2013, 09:54 AM   #4411
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anyone have to deal with the head issues yet on the 3.6? It seems like that's all I do nowadays.
can you tell which cylinder had a misfire? haha



That and sand in the motor from manufacturing is killing us now. You have to replace the heater core, radiator and take out the freeze plugs to scrape out the sand. If that dosent work, replace the motor...

heater core in a '10


Don't even get me started with the Dart, rust issues with 500 miles on them
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Old 01-17-2013, 10:00 AM   #4412
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you work at a dealer? mind looking up a P/N for a silver steering wheel bezel from the '13 Freedom Edition or Rubi 10th Anniversary? Looking for something that matches the bright silver in my '12 MW3. My local dealer says it costs $450 for silver while the standard black is $15 and titanium is $120. That maka no sinse.
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Old 01-17-2013, 11:38 AM   #4413
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P/N 1TE64SZ6AA BEZEL SIL RUIB
That's what my parts guy can find without the VIN. Im guessing its right. $151.29
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Old 01-17-2013, 12:05 PM   #4414
K Dub
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Originally Posted by PGT View Post
clip-on weights? did you kick the shop that mounted them for you?
Quote:
Originally Posted by tylerq219 View Post
clip on weights on AEVs!? id kill someone.
Those wheels/tires were road force balanced on a Hunter Road Force machine.

I TOLD them to use real weights, on both sides, to get the best balance possible. Sticky tape weights on the inside of the rim are not for real sized rims/tires. They are for Subarus.

I am very picky about tire balance.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:48 PM   #4415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K Dub View Post
Those wheels/tires were road force balanced on a Hunter Road Force machine.

I TOLD them to use real weights, on both sides, to get the best balance possible. Sticky tape weights on the inside of the rim are not for real sized rims/tires. They are for Subarus.

I am very picky about tire balance.
I suppose that if the vehicle never (or rarely) sees rocks, you're fine. I imagine that the first rock to get after your wheel is going to rip the weight right off.
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Old 01-17-2013, 01:54 PM   #4416
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Originally Posted by tylerq219 View Post
P/N 1TE64SZ6AA BEZEL SIL RUIB
That's what my parts guy can find without the VIN. Im guessing its right. $151.29
thanks. does that p/n account for the steering wheel buttons? I see parts lookups showing all the option codes (which are greek to me.)
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:34 PM   #4417
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it does include the uconnect buttons
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Old 01-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #4418
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Some quick shots of the Jeep. Going to get some more info now









Thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:07 PM   #4419
PGT
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the good thing about rust is it shows where the leaks are quite clearly
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:12 PM   #4420
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Makes me glad I live in an area where rust is rarely an issue.
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Old 01-17-2013, 03:31 PM   #4421
K Dub
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Originally Posted by Joe Boxer View Post
I suppose that if the vehicle never (or rarely) sees rocks, you're fine. I imagine that the first rock to get after your wheel is going to rip the weight right off.
Not if you put your tires ON the rocks, like you are supposed to

Really though, I gave up rock crawling almost 10 years ago.

If I were rock crawling I would never run those tires or those wheels. I'd be running 15X8 black steelies, with bias play swampers. And those, well those you don't even bother trying to balance.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:14 PM   #4422
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soslow: the jeep looks like its been sitting for a long time. No battery, flat tires, tons of rust. Id go through that thing with a fine tooth comb. Already those brake lines look scary. But you do have the uber rare running boards.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:36 PM   #4423
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soslow: the jeep looks like its been sitting for a long time. No battery, flat tires, tons of rust. Id go through that thing with a fine tooth comb. Already those brake lines look scary. But you do have the uber rare running boards.
Thanks, it has been sitting since August.

It does start and run but when I tried to put it in 4-LO it would pop right out as soon as I put back into Drive. I think I'm going to pass since I don't yet need a 4wd.

ALSO: For the life of me, I can't figure where the front CV driveshafts are... Am I blind? They look plugged and come to think of it that makes since because the rear and front tires are different sizes (225/70 fronts 225/75 rears which would typically tear the full time case up.

Last edited by soslow; 01-17-2013 at 04:41 PM.
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Old 01-17-2013, 04:44 PM   #4424
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it does include the uconnect buttons
thanks again.....local dealer ordered it for me to swap out for the titanium color version they tried to pass off on me.
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Old 01-17-2013, 05:16 PM   #4425
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Thanks, it has been sitting since August.

It does start and run but when I tried to put it in 4-LO it would pop right out as soon as I put back into Drive. I think I'm going to pass since I don't yet need a 4wd.

ALSO: For the life of me, I can't figure where the front CV driveshafts are... Am I blind? They look plugged and come to think of it that makes since because the rear and front tires are different sizes (225/70 fronts 225/75 rears which would typically tear the full time case up.
That's the rare 2wd option lol.
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