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Old 12-09-2010, 01:03 PM   #1926
amalgrover
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you would still have 50 points, but if the scaling is left alone, then you would only be using 40 of those 50 points. if you scale the sensor properly down to the size needed, it would allow you to fully use all 50 points of "resolution" and still give you the headroom to go bigger later on.
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:09 PM   #1927
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its just seems like you're stuck in the 2L td04 mindset.....

All wrx's and sti's nowdays are 2.5L with a vf.......so 1000cc and 76mm on e85 is pretty much perfect.

its not like im telling people to put 2000cc and an 83mm on a 2L td04......

im merely saying that 1200cc is not that much larger than 1000cc and the drivability is the same......so why not get the headroom for the same price?

Also....you should be aware that the newer sti's have been coming with 70mm stock maf's for 2-3 years
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Old 12-09-2010, 01:30 PM   #1928
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^Im not saying that it is necessarily a factor at this point, but merely that you are loosing "sensor resolution" as you go larger with the MAF even though you gain resolution in the ECU's tables.

So if the sensor reads accuratly in .03 volt steps and you're using 0-5 volts you get ~ 167 data points that it can read accurately, now if you've lost 1 volt of the range that the sensor see's then you've effectively lost ~ 33 points and decreased the sensor's accuracy by ~ 20%.

Like I said this may not be a huge factor, merely just something to consider.
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:02 PM   #1929
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lol.....you just keep making stuff up....

just stop using the word resolution all together. its a moot point....and now you're interchanging accuracy and resolution.....and using one to describe the other.

If you put the MAF sensor in the holland tunnel it will give you precise measurements that are not accurate at a constant resolution.

Bottom Lines

- The larger the tube, the less accurate the sensor (below 86mm this is a relative non-issue)

- The resolution is determined by each individual tuner's scale. The resolution of a measurement system is by itself no indication of accuracy.
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:05 PM   #1930
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i don't understand how you are losing 1v...it isn't lost, you just aren't using it. if someone drives their car 100% throttle all the time, would that mean that they lose 2-3v because they never use the lower portion of the sensor scale (though this example is kinda unrealistic, i am just making a general example and trying to understand what you are saying)...because you don't use the last 1v of the sensor doesn't mean you lose it, it just would mean that you aren't using it. i will, however, agree that you would unnecessarily lose some accuracy if going with a larger than needed maf housing due to the sensor not reading as much of the air coming into the engine, but that is where proper fuel system tuning and maf scaling would come into play.
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:24 PM   #1931
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I agree with the bottom line's thats all I was trying to convey, even if I was using the term resolution incorrectly.
But I dont understand what you think I was "making up" I was merely just using hypothetical numbers in there to make a point. Like I stated many times before the numbers I used were just for example.

Anyways, moving on to a new subject- I have been experimenting on the amount of timing to use during spool up to maximize turbo response. What kind of timing are you guys running and how steeply do you taper the amount of advance?
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Old 12-09-2010, 02:40 PM   #1932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02RexWI View Post
Try not to get defensive about these subjects, if we all stay subjective on these topics we can all benefit from a better understand of these topics.
we are all calm here. i agree discussion is good for all of us here. i come on here everyday trying to learn something.

i think i see the light on this one...thanks for taking the time to sort that out, boys.

Last edited by maxpowr; 12-09-2010 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:11 PM   #1933
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I like turtles.
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Old 12-09-2010, 03:23 PM   #1934
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which way to the pump?
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Old 12-10-2010, 04:19 PM   #1935
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I added onto an old Five-O Injector thread after calling Bruce http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...10&postcount=7

Anyone have any experience with the Denso EV6 injectors idle smoothness and general linearity vs the EV14s?
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Old 12-12-2010, 03:47 AM   #1936
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Hey guys,

So I'm another guy who wants to go with E85 on TD04.

My setup:
- 2005 WRX
- TD04 18.5psi (mid-end), XPT Stage 2 map retuned by me (92 oct)
- GM EBCS
- Catless UP / DP (Wrapped)
- Apexi N1 Exhaust
- APS 65mm CAI (Scaled)
- Stock TMIC / BPV
- Walbro 255LPH
- Perrin Crank Pulley
- TGV Delete

My total timing:


I have a log from the summer in 90F weather, this was before I did TGV deletes and Perrin Crank Pulley, the car already ran very good:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...uOVc0Nmc&hl=en

I'm sticking with stock TMIC. I was thinking of getting 850cc injectors, but I was wondering which ones to get, I want to be able to adjust the latencies and flow on my own (preferably find the right values here or on romraider forum). I would like to get an E-Tune, I don't really know how to tune E85. Who is a good tuner with E85 experience? I would like to gain more torque and possibly few horsepower and have a safe tune for stock TMIC and 5MT. Thanks.

.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:28 AM   #1937
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I know phatron has worked wonders for quite a few people in this thread including myself, and I am sure he could help you out as well. Also, you can adjust latency values and flow scaling in the ecu no matter what injector you get, but the only way you could actually adjust latency and flow scaling of the injector itself would be to buy something like the easytune box from FIC and a fuel pressure regulator. when you change the values in the ecu it isn't changing anything on the injector per say, but more just changing what the ecu thinks the injector is doing.

...I just want to say though that there really isn't a "SAFE" tune for the stock 5MT. The difference in gearbox strain between 330ftlbs at the flywheel and 350ftlbs at the fllywheel when just accelerating from a roll is minimal. Now when shifting gears, dumping clutches, and taking off its a different story, but remember that shifting and starting from a standstill isn't the only time the gears are being stressed. If you are going to mod, I would go ahead and keep it in the back of your mind/bank account that your transmission could go at anytime without warning. This thread talks about how you are stressing the gears even when you aren't shifting, how those stresses can turn into stress cracks, and those stress cracks can turn into broken gears. I am not saying that you are going to break a gearbox at the power level you will be at, or that there aren't people running more than that out of stock gears because there are. All I am saying is just make sure you keep broken gears in the picture because all machines are not created equal. They are all different, and what worked on one could completely destroy another, and also that just because you baby your transmission between gears doesn't mean you aren't beating it up once you are in that gear.

Last edited by amalgrover; 12-12-2010 at 10:39 AM.
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Old 12-12-2010, 05:14 PM   #1938
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phatron is an awesome e tuner.

they call the 02-03 wrx tranny a glass box for a reason...its really more a matter of time than a possibility.
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:59 PM   #1939
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his isn't an 02-03 but the 04-05 transmission isn't anything spectacular either... RA gearsets are just about as prone to breaking as the stock gears, and they are supposed to be slightly stronger. so yeah, just like with most cars out there, you have to pay to play. you can't raise the hp levels significantly and expect everything to last. if he goes E85, he will be pushing over 100chp and tq over stock probably, and that is a fairly significant increase. like i said, not saying it won't make it because i personally know a few people that are pushing 350whp with no problems on stock 05 gears. again though, transmissions are machines, and every machine performs a little differently than the next. machines are unpredictable, and therefore, the unexpected should at least be prepared for...
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:02 PM   #1940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amalgrover View Post
his isn't an 02-03 but the 04-05 transmission isn't anything spectacular either... RA gearsets are just about as prone to breaking as the stock gears, and they are supposed to be slightly stronger. so yeah, just like with most cars out there, you have to pay to play. you can't raise the hp levels significantly and expect everything to last. if he goes E85, he will be pushing over 100chp and tq over stock probably, and that is a fairly significant increase. like i said, not saying it won't make it because i personally know a few people that are pushing 350whp with no problems on stock 05 gears. again though, transmissions are machines, and every machine performs a little differently than the next. machines are unpredictable, and therefore, the unexpected should at least be prepared for...
I broke my tranny 2 weeks after switching to E85
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:19 PM   #1941
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i drove 140k on an 02 trans before i traded it for a clutch and fly wheel. for about 6 months the trans saw 341whp from the 2.0 and 30r.

tranny is still running on a 2.0 and 18g.

pump gas though...
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:38 PM   #1942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
i drove 140k on an 02 trans before i traded it for a clutch and fly wheel. for about 6 months the trans saw 341whp from the 2.0 and 30r.

tranny is still running on a 2.0 and 18g.

pump gas though...
You have to remember I have a 2.5L, a VF39 on E85 puts down 380-400wtq
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Old 12-12-2010, 08:46 PM   #1943
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i traded the glass box out for a 6 speed myself. looking forward to the magic of e85.

warming my car up in 20* temps is killing my miles per tank!
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:09 PM   #1944
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i broke my 2002 tranny at OTS cobb stage 2. i never dumped the clutch, never slammed the gears when shifting, never really did anything except slipped launches, and i never even really did that but a few times. it was stage 2 for about half of the 97,000 miles that were on it, and one night i went to shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd wasn't there. i didn't shift hard and wasn't getting on it really or anything...it just had had enough... I know from working on aircraft that sometimes things just break. mechanical things (especially gears) can break for no reason at all really. proof of that would be when i broke my 1st gear on my ppg gearset after 1 month of owning them. i was only putting down about 350whp at the time, and there was no reason i should have broken them. Andrewtech had no real explaination of why they broke either, replaced them for free, and said they were going to talk with ppg about why the gear broke. sometimes things just happen, and that is why you have to kind of hope for the best but plan for the worst...
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:11 PM   #1945
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpowr View Post
warming my car up in 20* temps is killing my miles per tank!
i have gone from getting 16mpg to about 14.5mpg since temps have started dropping into the 20s and teens lately
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:26 PM   #1946
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i have yet to get an accurate mpg on the new build since i'm still tuning it. i saw an average of 300 to 320 miles on a full tank on the tuned 2.0/30r. highest i seen so far on the built 2.5/30r was 220.

mostly 15 minute warm up to 3rd/4th pulls though.
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Old 12-13-2010, 07:42 AM   #1947
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i usually get about 300miles on a highway only tank, and then about 225 on a mostly city tank. lately with all the warming up i have been doing it is only getting 180-200 to a city tank. if i could keep my foot out of it, all three of those numbers would go up though ...dang boost is too addicting...
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:22 AM   #1948
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+1 for phatron
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Old 12-13-2010, 01:55 PM   #1949
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nfm View Post
Hey guys,

So I'm another guy who wants to go with E85 on TD04.

My setup:
- 2005 WRX
- TD04 18.5psi (mid-end), XPT Stage 2 map retuned by me (92 oct)
- GM EBCS
- Catless UP / DP (Wrapped)
- Apexi N1 Exhaust
- APS 65mm CAI (Scaled)
- Stock TMIC / BPV
- Walbro 255LPH
- Perrin Crank Pulley
- TGV Delete

My total timing:


I have a log from the summer in 90F weather, this was before I did TGV deletes and Perrin Crank Pulley, the car already ran very good:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...uOVc0Nmc&hl=en

I'm sticking with stock TMIC. I was thinking of getting 850cc injectors, but I was wondering which ones to get, I want to be able to adjust the latencies and flow on my own (preferably find the right values here or on romraider forum). I would like to get an E-Tune, I don't really know how to tune E85. Who is a good tuner with E85 experience? I would like to gain more torque and possibly few horsepower and have a safe tune for stock TMIC and 5MT. Thanks.

.

Does that include your dynamic advance? That's a lot of timing if it doesn't.
Are you using Dynamic Advance (knock correction)? I don't see it on the log and it doesn't appear that you are.


I'm not digging the curve, honestly. Seems to me you have too much at low rpm and not enough at high rpm for pump gas. For e85, I'd alter that timing map even more.
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Old 12-13-2010, 10:37 PM   #1950
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxwell Power View Post
Does that include your dynamic advance? That's a lot of timing if it doesn't.
Are you using Dynamic Advance (knock correction)? I don't see it on the log and it doesn't appear that you are.


I'm not digging the curve, honestly. Seems to me you have too much at low rpm and not enough at high rpm for pump gas. For e85, I'd alter that timing map even more.
Yes I'm using "Knock Correction Advance Max" (it's filled with 8.09 values from 0.90g/rev & 1200rpm all the way to redline). I just added Base Timing with DA, so that screenshot represent my total timing. Roughly, how much timing do you think I could add on up high for 93oct?
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