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02-20-2013, 05:57 PM | #151 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 56203
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: south nj
Vehicle:00 RSTI Coupe Twin Scroll 2.5XTR EJ207 |
I dont 100% understand your last post but if you couldnt get a cam cap on cause it didnt reach you have something way outta whack. Id assume its a wrapped cam but wouldnt be surprised if it was something else
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02-20-2013, 06:08 PM | #152 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
It's not a warped cam. The center cam journal, where something was dropped on it, has a slight lip that's folded over and won't allow the cam to go all the way into the head on that journal
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02-24-2013, 10:17 PM | #153 |
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Member#: 328635
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland*
Vehicle:2004 STi GTX3076R Rally Blue |
Paul, have you never heard of a shop giving a guy a break if he is willing to wait until they have a near identical job? My point is if a place line hones one engine the cost is higher, for people willing to wait until they already have to set it up for another project it is not unheard of to have the cost be less seeing the time involved.
02wrxej208, how far is the closest quality machine shop? or even a good Subaru shop? Getting a set of eyes on it and the ability to take a truly close look will help a lot more then any of us can. |
02-28-2013, 12:53 AM | #154 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
Quote:
One of my cam cap bolts was rounded off(not from me) and my local dealership basically told me to go away... They're ********. I found a bolt that would fit but my friends said it could put an un-even load on the cam, so I ordered some from out front motor sports. Now onto progress! Realized I needed to replace my rear timing covers when I took them off the shelf today, trying to find a set. After that I'll have my cap bolt and I can finish setting timing. All my misc parts are on, alt/ps pump, ect. The plug on the bottom of my block to run the plug for an oem oil cooler set up stripped so I bought an external set up. Cxracing core with aviation grade lines, I think they're -6an. The oil feed line on my drivers side head where the oil feed for the second turbo was, I have been turning Pensacola over looking for a bolt that will plug it. I have found a few 12x1.25's but the threads are too corse/large and it won't go in without hurting the threads. And the banjo bolt that was in there is too long if I don't use the oil line. So I need to find something that will fit Also too do: bleed the new brakes, attach my 06 bumper that is just sitting on the car(does anyone have a how-to , on how to attach it too an 02 rear end?) make a wiring harness for my e-cut out, pressure wash my engine bay, get some one step colder copper plugs and I think that's it... |
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02-28-2013, 05:24 PM | #155 | |
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Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Sedan Midnight Black |
Quote:
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03-09-2013, 07:48 PM | #156 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
Alright guys motor is coming along awesome. My friends appendix burst so he's in the hospital but when he gets out I can pick my TGV's up from him. Everything else is pretty much on minus setting timing, was gonna do that today but got distracted fixing other odds and ends. Now for my question:
That bolt on the bottom of my block that coolant runs into started to strip. Since this is like a 95 block ad didnt come with an oil cooler I bought the full oem set up but because of that bolt/plug I bought an external oil cooler kit off a guy on here with a beast car cause he upgraded. It's a cx racing core/adapter but he swapped their crap lines with aviation grade lines, I can't run the adapter without the stock oil cooler on the block so what I have right now is: Oem oil cooler with the coolant lines capped off, then a cap on the water pump feed, then the cxracing plate. Will the oem oil cooler be fine if the water passages don't have anything flowing thru them? And will just a plain rubber cap+ a hose clamp stop water from pouring out of the water pump nozzle or will the coolant and stuff eat that cap away? I'll try to post some pics when it's not dark out |
03-10-2013, 12:26 PM | #157 |
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Member#: 328635
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland*
Vehicle:2004 STi GTX3076R Rally Blue |
why do you not want to run water through it?
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03-10-2013, 12:29 PM | #158 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
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03-10-2013, 12:36 PM | #159 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 328635
Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland*
Vehicle:2004 STi GTX3076R Rally Blue |
I would . . . you did a lot to let one stripped bolt stop ya . Everyone has their opinion but I like having the water and oil help keep everything at a the same temp.
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03-10-2013, 05:23 PM | #160 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
Ej208's didn't come from factory with an oil cooler and alot of people delete them anyways. I figure not running the coolant will help my oil warm up a bit quicker and the external keep it at a good temp while driving. Also I cannot find the correct size Allen wrench to fit it anywhere locally. No where locally sells anything above a 12mm and I haven't ordered one. I've looked at every auto/hardware store here haha. I found a t70 at advanced auto and that's what started to strip it.
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03-15-2013, 04:45 PM | #161 |
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Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
So my motor is about 95% ready to go back in... Just finishing up some vacuum/ coolant lines. Not sure where some of them so ill upload pics in a few
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03-15-2013, 09:32 PM | #162 |
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Member#: 344639
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: East Coast
Vehicle:2002 Impreza WRX Midnight Black Pearl |
I am removing my 2002 wrx shortly.
Do you need photos of the vacuum lines and coolant? I have a bunch of photos if you tell me what area of the engine you need. The engine is still attached to the trans in the car but mostly ready to be pulled any warm day now. I might be able to help. Last edited by rrg123; 03-15-2013 at 10:04 PM. |
03-16-2013, 01:47 AM | #163 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
Quote:
this vacuum line off the manifold these two, i know one goes to some emissions thing or something but im not sure how its run or where too where all these coolant lines go to and the hard plastic line next to the one that runs to the TB diy tgv deletes Last edited by 02wrxej208; 03-16-2013 at 05:37 AM. |
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03-19-2013, 02:14 AM | #164 |
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Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
so after a lot of looking at the online manuals I am still a bit lost with the last bit of the pvc/intake manifold lines. I know I delete a few of them with the ap fuel rails but I am still a bit lost
Edit:also the purse valve/solenoid lines Last edited by 02wrxej208; 03-19-2013 at 12:02 PM. |
03-21-2013, 03:55 AM | #165 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Sedan Midnight Black |
vac line = FPR manifold pressure reference line
straight fitting --> bottom of purge diaphragm (round device, one line to the inlet, one to the solenoid, one to the straight fitting on the left in your picture) limp dick fitting --> to the purge solenoid coolant lines? I don't remember which is in and out, the stock lines will only go one orientation comfortably. The other one off the "crankcase chimney" goes to the inlet. It has a very tight bend that will kink most hoses that aren't pre-formed. You almost need this one to be OEM preformed. |
03-21-2013, 11:47 PM | #166 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
Quote:
Now I am confused about where the coolant return line on the throttle body goes and the vacuum line on the bottom of the ITM by the throttle body. Also the hard line on the crossover pipe that goes over the clutch has a side nipple running off it. Not sure where it goes. I'll post pics Edit: and for my pcv: I have 2 pcv hoses from each valve cover running to a splitter that goes into the turbo inlet and then the pcv chimney, one piece running to the pcv valve and the other with a line straight to a nipple on the turbo inlet, sound right?? |
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03-22-2013, 05:42 AM | #167 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
where does this coolant return line off the tb run too?
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03-23-2013, 12:51 PM | #168 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Portland*
Vehicle:2004 STi GTX3076R Rally Blue |
It runs to that water line that in just below it and towards the driver side a bit (the small nipple facing vertically).
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03-23-2013, 07:19 PM | #169 |
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Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
I just figured it out, I'm assuming the previous owner did the coolant bypass mod that's why I was missing the hoses and didnt remember where they went. Ima leave it how it is, the line I have left runs from the black vertical facing line to the one in the center of the pic
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03-23-2013, 07:25 PM | #170 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Sedan Midnight Black |
This should help:
Found via google image search of "wrx throttle body" Those black hard lines on top are the "tee" for the head breathers. the 01+ STi and 06+ WRX also have a 2nd port on the heads that got to a tee that goes to the crankcase. This is the "balancing port" to balance pressure between the 2 heads and the crankcase. Last edited by Concillian; 03-23-2013 at 07:36 PM. |
03-25-2013, 02:27 AM | #171 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
I got all my lines figured out installed new trans mount today(what a PITA) and bled my brakes, fixed the engine hoist, got it lifted/put on my rear main seal/flywheel//clutch ect and it's ready to go back in but my friend had to leave so it has to wait till tomorrow:/ hopefully have it ready to turn key on Wednesday
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03-26-2013, 11:58 AM | #172 |
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Member#: 343578
Join Date: Jan 2013
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Next day off is Friday. Ill help out unless the wife gets back in town. She gets jelly when I'm cheating on her with subies lol!!
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03-27-2013, 01:29 PM | #173 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
My motor is, hooking everything up Atm, I upload more pictures to Instagram than I do here so if you wanna check them out its @seansubylover
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03-28-2013, 06:07 PM | #174 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 295496
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, Florida
Vehicle:2002 stroked 20g bug WRB |
I have absolutely no clutch pressure and idk why tried bleeding the clutch and it didnt improve at all
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03-28-2013, 06:44 PM | #175 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4414
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Dublin, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Sedan Midnight Black |
slave doesn't have the nipple at the highest point. Unbolt the slave and have someone hold the slave up so the nipple is the highest point when the nipple's open. Then do the open, down, close up dance for a while, that should get the air out.
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