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Old 05-11-2015, 11:33 PM   #1
RTNDO128
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Default 2015 WRX System plans

I'm in the process of planning out an audio system for my '15 WRX. I plan on changing out the headunit, all 6 speakers (dash included), and adding an amp and subwoofer. Can anyone on here give me some feedback about the components I've picked out?

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-X5700BHS
Front Speakers: Alpine SPR-60C
Rear Speakers: Alpine SPR-60
Amplifier: Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel
Subwoofer: Undecided (recommendations appreciated. 8"-10" preferred. Just looking for a little bump, not waking the dead.)

Thoughts? Are there any custom sub enclosures out there for the '15 yet? I'd prefer that or something that takes little trunk space and still gives me access to the spare tire. Thanks!
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:34 AM   #2
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Seems like you have a nice setup. Pioneer makes some really nice head units. But I would recommend you sticking with the stock speakers until you put in the new head unit and see what you think. Subaru has always been notorious for ****ty headunits but the speakers in our cars I think are somewhat decent. As far as a subwoofer goes I would do anything Alpine or Rockford Fosgate. They can be costly but you do get what you pay for.
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Old 05-12-2015, 12:42 AM   #3
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good choice on the pdx-v9. although some audio dudes (and rightfully so) really push for the JL HD series 5 channels. Ive had a couple pdx v9s and they performed flawlessly with plenty of power and good clean signal.

not sure what type of subwoofer you are looking for, but some in 10" that I like include: ID10 D4 V.3, ARC10D4 V3, dayton audio RSS265HO-4, and the infinity kappa 100.9. for good sound quality you want one with a strong motor, low moving mass, usually a low Qts and high excursion. One I would like to try but never have is the seas L26ROY.

I dont know of any true custom enclosures for the 15 wrx, I had a guy build me a box out of birch plywood and then used a metal bracket to secure to the trunk. even a prebuilt box can work if you secure it well. if you are good or even want to try fiberglass you can make your own custom enclosure pretty easy, there are MANY how-to articles online if you want to give it a try....
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Old 05-12-2015, 08:28 AM   #4
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Thanks for the responses guys. I'll look into the JL HD series amps before I make my final decision. What are your opinions on buying everything from amazon? I priced things up on crutchfield and sonicelectronix, and amazon was significantly cheaper for everything by about $600 total. I know the amazon sellers aren't authorized Alpine sellers so Alpine's warranty is void, but it looks like these sellers give their own 1 yr warranty.
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Old 05-12-2015, 01:57 PM   #5
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I've heard the oem audio+, and it sounded fantastic...

http://shop.oemaudioplus.com/2015-ST...YS400-0015.htm


get that, and the deck that you listed. when you order it from them, you tell them what deck you are going to have, and they custom tune it for you.. install is clean, and from what i have heard, they are extremely helpful for that
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dickiescoob View Post
I've heard the oem audio+, and it sounded fantastic...

http://shop.oemaudioplus.com/2015-ST...YS400-0015.htm


get that, and the deck that you listed. when you order it from them, you tell them what deck you are going to have, and they custom tune it for you.. install is clean, and from what i have heard, they are extremely helpful for that
was this a two subs setup?

like their subs - looking pretty awesome. I do not understand though how do you access the spare tire
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:25 PM   #7
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the system i heard was the single sub.. sounded really good for pop/rock/dubstep. with 1 sub, accessing the spare tire is pretty easy, it barely slips by the cover.
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Old 05-17-2015, 10:05 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColdSoda View Post
good choice on the pdx-v9. although some audio dudes (and rightfully so) really push for the JL HD series 5 channels. Ive had a couple pdx v9s and they performed flawlessly with plenty of power and good clean signal.

not sure what type of subwoofer you are looking for, but some in 10" that I like include: ID10 D4 V.3, ARC10D4 V3, dayton audio RSS265HO-4, and the infinity kappa 100.9. for good sound quality you want one with a strong motor, low moving mass, usually a low Qts and high excursion. One I would like to try but never have is the seas L26ROY.

I dont know of any true custom enclosures for the 15 wrx, I had a guy build me a box out of birch plywood and then used a metal bracket to secure to the trunk. even a prebuilt box can work if you secure it well. if you are good or even want to try fiberglass you can make your own custom enclosure pretty easy, there are MANY how-to articles online if you want to give it a try....
I think I'll take your advice with the Infinity sub. I've had an Infinity (Reference series I think?) sub for about 7 years and always liked it. Can you recommend and good enclosures? I'm looking for something that takes up the least amount of trunk space possible, and still gives me access to the spare tire.

Also, if the power range on that sub is up to 350 watts RMS, is it a problem that the amp puts out 500 watts RMS?

Last edited by RTNDO128; 05-17-2015 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:00 AM   #9
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i plan on one of these

Single 10W6v3 H.O. Wedge, Ported, 2 ***937;
HO110-W6v3
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:44 AM   #10
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JL makes has a shallow mount 10 and 12 sub that they load into a box that is pretty thin. I have it in my '14 hatch and takes up no room at all. I have 400W going to it and it hits pretty hard for as small as what it is.

If your going for an amp, I would just upgrade the speakers like you are planning. Yes the factory speakers are fine with a new head unit or small amp, but with what you are looking to do, I would just upgrade the speakers as well.

As for amps, the JL audio HD, the Alpine you have listed, or Arc Audio also has a 5 channel. I went with the Arc Audio and am happy with it. Really between those 3, either one is going to be good, just decide which you like best and which you can get for right price.

As for buying on Amazon, plenty of people here do it without problems. You do run a risk of getting bootleg product and some companies only support their warranties when purchased through authorized retailers. (Amazon is not) You may also find a local stereo shop that is authorized and is willing to sell close to the prices you see on Amazon. For me, I just used Crutchfield for the piece of mind and I didn't have any worthwhile local shops.
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359 View Post
JL makes has a shallow mount 10 and 12 sub that they load into a box that is pretty thin. I have it in my '14 hatch and takes up no room at all. I have 400W going to it and it hits pretty hard for as small as what it is.

If your going for an amp, I would just upgrade the speakers like you are planning. Yes the factory speakers are fine with a new head unit or small amp, but with what you are looking to do, I would just upgrade the speakers as well.

As for amps, the JL audio HD, the Alpine you have listed, or Arc Audio also has a 5 channel. I went with the Arc Audio and am happy with it. Really between those 3, either one is going to be good, just decide which you like best and which you can get for right price.

As for buying on Amazon, plenty of people here do it without problems. You do run a risk of getting bootleg product and some companies only support their warranties when purchased through authorized retailers. (Amazon is not) You may also find a local stereo shop that is authorized and is willing to sell close to the prices you see on Amazon. For me, I just used Crutchfield for the piece of mind and I didn't have any worthwhile local shops.
Good advice. Do you know the model of the JL sub+enclosure by chance? I was also wondering about bootlegs through Amazon. I'll probably call up the manufacturer after getting everything to see if it's legit (I'm assuming they can do this with a serial # or something?)
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:09 PM   #12
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No need to upgrade rear speakers, use that money elsewhere. I would also consider the JL Evolution C3 components too.
JL HD amp will be worth the price difference too.
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Old 05-17-2015, 12:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTNDO128 View Post
Good advice. Do you know the model of the JL sub+enclosure by chance? I was also wondering about bootlegs through Amazon. I'll probably call up the manufacturer after getting everything to see if it's legit (I'm assuming they can do this with a serial # or something?)
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136110L...W3.html?tp=112

If your doing JL Audio or Arc Audio, go through an authorized retailer. Those companies are strict with warranties.

I've heard from a couple of people on here that Alpine and Pioneer are pretty relaxed and will warranty about anything within reason, but I would double check on that to be sure.

Rear speakers are just for rear fill. I did upgrade the rear speakers on my car, but if your budget is tight, with hold the rear speakers to get better front speakers.
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Old 05-17-2015, 01:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359 View Post
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_136110L...W3.html?tp=112

If your doing JL Audio or Arc Audio, go through an authorized retailer. Those companies are strict with warranties.

I've heard from a couple of people on here that Alpine and Pioneer are pretty relaxed and will warranty about anything within reason, but I would double check on that to be sure.

Rear speakers are just for rear fill. I did upgrade the rear speakers on my car, but if your budget is tight, with hold the rear speakers to get better front speakers.
Thanks! Spec wise, how do you think this looks in comparison?...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SBRS...-4.html?tp=112
It also looks like a nice, small package. I'm just looking for some good low end, not shaking the car apart.
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Old 05-17-2015, 03:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTNDO128 View Post
Thanks! Spec wise, how do you think this looks in comparison?...
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SBRS...-4.html?tp=112
It also looks like a nice, small package. I'm just looking for some good low end, not shaking the car apart.
I've always preferred sealed boxes. The bass is a little tighter in my opinion.

As far as specs go, the JL is a 10" vs a 8". The JL handles a little more wattage than the Alpine. The max wattage doesn't mean much for day to day. The RMS are the numbers you want to focus on.

The end of the day, either should work well for you and give you what you are looking for.
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Old 05-17-2015, 06:16 PM   #16
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I appreciate the responses from everyone. I want to plug sonicelectronix.com. I just purchased my headunit, steering wheel adapter, wiring harnesses, usb adapter, RCA cables, and JL Audio CS110TG-TW3 loaded sub for less than I could have purchased everything through Amazon. I placed the order over the phone with Andrew (x2222) and he hooked me up with a discount. Highly recommended.

Now I just have to get my speakers and amp off Amazon, and I'm good to go.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:09 PM   #17
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+1 for sonicelectronix I've been using them for years. their warranty support and customer service are top notch.
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Old 05-17-2015, 08:12 PM   #18
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In regards to installing an aftermarket amp, are the factory wires good enough? I understand that I need to run RCAs from the headunit to the amp, then speaker wires from the amp back to the headunit. I was going to splice the factory speaker wire if it's not a problem.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:23 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RTNDO128 View Post
In regards to installing an aftermarket amp, are the factory wires good enough? I understand that I need to run RCAs from the headunit to the amp, then speaker wires from the amp back to the headunit. I was going to splice the factory speaker wire if it's not a problem.
Depends on how much power you're pushing to the doors. That PDX-V9 (I've got the same amp and speakers) can do 100watts RMS to each door (most likely more, my amp tested at 124watts RMS). I ran 16guage. I didn't think the stock wires were good enough. Anyone else have an opinion on this?

The rear door boots aren't too bad, but the front ones are a pain to pull cable through. The SPR-60C has a crossover setup that requires you to run a cable from the little crossover box to the back of the speaker, then up to the tweeter. So you need to run not only the 16guage speaker wire, but 1 wire from the crossover through the rubber boot.

See my post here.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2708671

I recommend foam baffles to protect your new speakers, as the SPR-60 series have a paper cone. They sound great btw.

Oh.. please make sure to not run the power near the heater core under the dash. I've heard a rumour that can cause problems (I busted the clips on my heater core, cost me a lot to have fixed).

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2714744

Last edited by Kuth678; 05-18-2015 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 05-18-2015, 03:36 PM   #20
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Depends on how much power you're pushing to the doors. That PDX-V9 (I've got the same amp and speakers) can do 100watts RMS to each door (most likely more, my amp tested at 124watts RMS). The stock wires aren't good enough. I ran 16guage.

The rear door boots aren't too bad, but the front ones are a pain to pull cable through. See my post here.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2708671

Oh.. please make sure to not run the power near the heater core. I've heard a rumour that can cause problems (I busted the clips on my heater core, cost me a lot to have fixed).
Thanks for the info. I checked out your post, that's really helpful. Are the speaker baffles necessary? I've never used them before.
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Old 05-18-2015, 04:32 PM   #21
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Thanks for the info. I checked out your post, that's really helpful. Are the speaker baffles necessary? I've never used them before.
Not 100% necessary, But since these are paper cone speakers it will help them last longer. There are debates regarding the baffles when it comes to helping or hurting sound, I can't really speak to that. They sound fine to me with em.
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Old 05-18-2015, 05:43 PM   #22
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The factory speaker wires are fine. I have my rears hooked up to the factory wires.

I replaced the wires to the front because it would have been more work to hook my crossovers into my factory speaker wires.

Use speaker baffles. Cut a hole in the bottom for bass response. I had a major issue in previous vehicle where water was getting to my speakers and shorting out my amp. It was fixed with baffles. I run them on everything now as it pretty cheap piece of mind.

edit: also plan to do some sound deadening in the car. Do some searches and you will find a ton of info on how to properly do it. It does help.
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:16 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by millertime359 View Post
I replaced the wires to the front because it would have been more work to hook my crossovers into my factory speaker wires.
Using my imagination a bit here, I wonder if it would be possible to use the Alpine crossovers with the stock wiring.

Maybe leave the crossovers behind the radio and run a longer wire to the tweeters on top?
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:26 PM   #24
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Using my imagination a bit here, I wonder if it would be possible to use the Alpine crossovers with the stock wiring.

Maybe leave the crossovers behind the radio and run a longer wire to the tweeters on top?
You could do that if you can find the room for 2 crossovers behind the dash. Worth looking into though.

It's really not that hard to run new wire into the door though. I just cut a small slit in the bottom of the plastic tube going into the door and ran the wire. I then wrapped black electrical tape.

Other people have been able to get the wires in without doing that.
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Old 05-19-2015, 05:49 PM   #25
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IMP leaving stock wires for woofers is OK. You won't hear the difference.
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