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Old 01-09-2014, 10:20 AM   #7926
IA Performance
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Time to wrestle this guy back on topic with some JDM eye candy

Nurburgring + JDM Sti version 8 = Epic Time

I wish I could say that was me behind the wheel Thanks goes out to Dominik for sharing the photos, taken pre winter.





Stephen
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:54 PM   #7927
quadturbowrxgtr-s
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What clutch are you guys using with your 207's?

I have Ver.8 207 tuned by Mikey to 19psi, full 3" catless exhaust incl. bell mouth dp, spearco 1000cfm top mount, HKS short ram, walbro upgraded pump etc.

Not sure of the power level but it is slipping the brand new Exedy OEM replacement clutch I just put in after about 8k miles....

I still have to stock 5-speed so I have to weigh clamping force with protecting the transmission.

Thanks for your input/ suggestions.
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Old 01-09-2014, 01:57 PM   #7928
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exedy Stage 1 clutch and new flywheel would be more then enough. Confused as to why the OEM is slipping. Maybe it has oil leaking from the main seal? Someone resurfaced or reused the old flywheel? Or maybe driver error/damage from racing or abuse? Need to pull it apart and look.

C
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:00 PM   #7929
IA Performance
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I second Clark's input. Given those modifications an OEM unit should last a long time. As for an upgraded option, check out the reviews on Southbend clutches. Their Stage 1 or even Stage 2 full face organic would do nicely. The OFE would be a bit overkill in there.

Stephen
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:09 PM   #7930
Clark Turner
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Good advice. I like a standard full face clutch for a 5mt trans. Kind of a buffer. I would rather have the clutch slip a bit and cushion the stress to the trans.
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:16 PM   #7931
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Stephen...whats your take on the pedal pressure of a Southbend stage 1 clutch compared to a exedy stage1? comparable or would i be doing leg presses on the Southbend?
Been running this exedy stg 1 on the 6sp, feels perfect
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:26 PM   #7932
IA Performance
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Pedal pressure comparisons from past installs:

5MT
southbend stage 1 = same as stock
southbend stage 2 = slightly heavier than stock, but no where as heavy as Exedy stg 1 pressure

6MT
southbend stg 2 = = feels the same as stock, and probably close to the exedy stg 1
southbend stg 2 OFE = Same effort at above since they use the same pressure plates.
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:28 PM   #7933
WRick
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Love thos pics!

Have them hi-res?
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:33 PM   #7934
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
Pedal pressure comparisons from past installs:

5MT
southbend stage 1 = same as stock
southbend stage 2 = slightly heavier than stock, but no where as heavy as Exedy stg 1 pressure

6MT
southbend stg 2 = = feels the same as stock, and probably close to the exedy stg 1
southbend stg 2 OFE = Same effort at above since they use the same pressure plates.
thanks , might look into them when the time comes
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:40 PM   #7935
IA Performance
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Wrick - looks like we only have a low 256K 800*500 version. You are more than welcome to it. Simply email me at [email protected] and I'll get it sent over.
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Old 01-09-2014, 02:56 PM   #7936
WRick
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Damn, that would've made a nice WP.
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Old 01-09-2014, 03:18 PM   #7937
96SubyImpreza
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadturbowrxgtr-s View Post
What clutch are you guys using with your 207's? I have Ver.8 207 tuned by Mikey to 19psi, full 3" catless exhaust incl. bell mouth dp, spearco 1000cfm top mount, HKS short ram, walbro upgraded pump etc. Not sure of the power level but it is slipping the brand new Exedy OEM replacement clutch I just put in after about 8k miles.... I still have to stock 5-speed so I have to weigh clamping force with protecting the transmission. Thanks for your input/ suggestions.
On a version 7 I'm using an oem 2004 STi clutch and pressure plate, it holds solid with a 3076R.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:06 PM   #7938
quadturbowrxgtr-s
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Thanks guys for the quick response. The flywheel is an act streetlite and was all new install with the motor. I'm not noticing any oil burn/loss or smelling oil burn so I don't think it could be oil leak but anything is possible. I got 130k on the OEM clutch with the "stg 4" ej205, obv. Diff motor/ torque etc but should point to driving style ie not tearing up clutches. Could it be a bad/ defective clutch in terms of wear surface? The symptom is when applying throttle, the Rpm's advance but the car does not. Oddly, not necessarily in synch with where I perceive the most torque to be generated but I could be wrong. Thanks for your input! Having this motor and not being able to enjoy it is unpleasant.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:14 PM   #7939
IA Performance
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Hmm, new flywheel with the new clutch. Did it have a bit of shudder when engaging from a stand still? We've seen instances where the driver rides the clutch a bit longer to avoid the shudder. This driving style will shorten the life span. If the clutch engaged smooth, then I'd suggest jumping brands to see if that helps.

Clark mentioned a leak on the rear of the motor, which is exactly what happened to my own motor. 100% new short block from Subaru leaked out of the wrist pin access panel, which then got on the flywheel and eventually the disc.

Stephen
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:36 PM   #7940
D-Rodman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadturbowrxgtr-s View Post
What clutch are you guys using with your 207's?

I have Ver.8 207 tuned by Mikey to 19psi, full 3" catless exhaust incl. bell mouth dp, spearco 1000cfm top mount, HKS short ram, walbro upgraded pump etc.

Not sure of the power level but it is slipping the brand new Exedy OEM replacement clutch I just put in after about 8k miles....

I still have to stock 5-speed so I have to weigh clamping force with protecting the transmission.

Thanks for your input/ suggestions.
I'm having the same problem.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:41 PM   #7941
Psychoreo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadturbowrxgtr-s View Post
What clutch are you guys using with your 207's?

I have Ver.8 207 tuned by Mikey to 19psi, full 3" catless exhaust incl. bell mouth dp, spearco 1000cfm top mount, HKS short ram, walbro upgraded pump etc.

Not sure of the power level but it is slipping the brand new Exedy OEM replacement clutch I just put in after about 8k miles....

I still have to stock 5-speed so I have to weigh clamping force with protecting the transmission.

Thanks for your input/ suggestions.
Same tuner

Same engine

Same trans

Same clutch

Stock, original flywheel

Works great for me. How much torque are you putting out? I'm at 287wtq on EFI's dyno.
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Old 01-09-2014, 04:52 PM   #7942
mrxr250rider
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It could be the center or rear diff slipping. One of my axles popped out causing slip once.

I'm running a competition stage 3 clutch and I love it. My cars a daily too. It grabs hard and launches hard. It's a little less street able than my act hd organic clutch was but I'm not complaining. It will take abuse.
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Old 01-09-2014, 05:39 PM   #7943
quadturbowrxgtr-s
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Stephen, no shudder from standstill so don't think I burned it up that way. Also, if your getting oil on the flywheel, won't it shudder? My old LandCruiser has a leak at the rear main and it shutters because of the inconsistent friction surface.

I'm not sure what tq numbers I'm putting down as we road tuned it.

I had the tech check to see if an axle had popped but he reported they looked fine..... Is there any difference in feel between an axle popped out and a slipping clutch? Thanks again.
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Old 01-09-2014, 07:56 PM   #7944
mrxr250rider
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My car would slip when first pulling out. I thought it was my clutch so I was easy on it otherwise
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Old 01-09-2014, 11:28 PM   #7945
D-Rodman
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My exedy oem spun twice on a wot run on a flat road in 4th and 5th gear. I'd been testing a kinugawa waste gate actuator, boost build was super fast, cause the clutch to spin. I let off the gas quickly in both instances. I'm back to running the stock waste gate actuator and taking it easy on the clutch. I'd been looking into the south bend clutches, I'll probably give them a try.
EFI Logics tuned by Mikey
Ver 8, basic stage 2 setup
USDM wrx 5 speed
Exedy oem replacement clutch
287whp
308wtq

Last edited by D-Rodman; 01-09-2014 at 11:34 PM.
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Old 01-10-2014, 07:11 AM   #7946
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My OEM 5 speed clutch with resurfaced Sti 5 speed lightweight flywheel slips sometimes in the high gears, depending on load, at 340 Wftlb.
It is a needed protection for my 5 speed, I think.

I think the OEM pressure plate clamping force for 5 speed is 10-15% less than the 6 speed.
I'm thinking that since the actuation mechanism is the same, this must translate in the pedal effort feeling directly.
So probably a clutch pedal that engages a 6 speed clutch feels 10% heavier than one that engages a 5 speed.

In terms of Sti performance parts, the "stage1" Sti performance pressure plate for 5 speed is slightly over the OEM 6 speed pressure plate clamping force, less than 10% I think.
From a 6 speed it would not be noticeable, but from a 5 speed switching to that, you would probably notice it.
I think that the whole clutch assembly for a 5 speed with high clamping force, say like a Sti lightweight flywheel with disc and plate may be either lighter or have the weight distributed on a smaller diameter than the 6 speed OEM unit and therefore provide an advantage.

So, when I go 6 speed I may stick with a 5 speed clutch, with uprated pressure plate and maybe a stage one full disc.
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Old 01-10-2014, 08:13 AM   #7947
Deedz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA Performance View Post
The intention of an Air Oil Separator is to remove oil from the intake, which can cause detonation when it eventually enters the combustion chamber. Detonation can then lead to premature failure of the bearings and pistons. In short, detonation can rack up one heck of a repair bill. The AOS is one of many preventative steps that can help prolong the engine's life.

As an added bonus, an AOS will decrease oil consumption since it deposits the oil back into the motor (unlike a catch can), instead of allowing the oil to be burned up in the combustion chamber.

Cool tip of the day
Motors with forged pistons will consume more oil than a non forged piston motor due to the looser piston to wall tolerances. Think of it as a smaller piston in a bigger hole. Once the forged metal heats up it will expand, and make a nice tight seal. Although, while the metal is still cold it will allow the combustion force to push by the piston, resulting in a pressurized crank case/oil pan. This pressure is then relieved through the top of the motor (crank case breather and valve cover breathers), which both lead directly back into the turbo inlet tube. For that reason, any Subaru motor with forged internals should run an AOS to help preserve oil levels and curb detonation caused by oil in the intake.

What happens when the oil enters the turbo inlet tube?
The oil is then sucked in by the compressor side of the turbo and slung into the intercooler. From there, it works its way down into the intake manifold and eventually the combustion chamber (place where air and fuel ignite, on top of the piston). Since oil is combustable, it will upset the perfect harmony that the ECU expects with adding itself to Fuel and Air. So now, the point of which ignition occurs is unpredictable, thus leading to pre detonation. Then boom goes the dynamite! (for those that enjoy watching odd youtube vids and Tosh.O)

Holy smokes, that was a lot off the cuff. Hopefully I didn't miss too many typos.

There are several AOS kits to chose from, the most widely used are:
-Crawford Performance
-Grimmspeed (not recommended for forged piston motors)
-Perrin Performance

There are pro's and con's to each brand. Feel free to send me a PM for additional details.

[email protected]
520-882-2821
I'm curious as to why the Grimmspeed AOS isn't recommended for forged piston engines. I hadn't heard of that before, and I was actually planning on adding one to my V7 swap so I'm glad I caught that.
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:33 AM   #7948
fastnoypi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deedz View Post
I'm curious as to why the Grimmspeed AOS isn't recommended for forged piston engines. I hadn't heard of that before, and I was actually planning on adding one to my V7 swap so I'm glad I caught that.
Here's more review on the GS, the consensus its ok on a stockish car, non-forged setup but not so great on bigger hp builds. Oil will end up in the intake track. The bandaid solution is to add another catchcan with the GS AOS.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...4#post38357544

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...2#post34886832
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Old 01-10-2014, 10:14 AM   #7949
WRick
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Would the crawford solution be more acceptable ? ( not considering the price )
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:58 AM   #7950
fastnoypi
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despite the price, the crawford one works. Its baffled and heated to prevent the oil sludge during cold weather. The key to picking a good can IMO, is the baffling to condense the oil vapor as much as possible. The heated feature of the crawford is an added bonus. The perrin unit is comparable in design to what i've seen, with coolant routed in to heat up the oil as well.
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