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10-31-2005, 12:02 PM | #1 |
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Vehicle:'06 Forester XS '11 Outback 2.5i |
OEM Remote Trunk Release (this one works)
Well after a lot of wire testing and some time under the dash, I did it. Thanks to all the posts that gave different wiring diagrams and schemes. I know several of you have done this, but I found no luck searching so here is my write up.
Disclaimer: Disconnect battery before attempting any type of electrical work on your vehicle. Do this modification at your own risk ..... i.e. don't blame me if you mess up or it doesn't work. Step 1. Install Aftermarket trunk release. I chose a cheap e-bay kit that I used on my old Impreza. I have read a couple different ways to install, I chose the way I did it in the past. I installed it in the trunk bay (not on the lid) and connected the wire to the same point where the handle trunk release (by the Driver's seat) connects. Once this is installed simply jump to constant power to check operation, tweak until it works. Now that the easy part is done. It's all wiring now. Last edited by VR4Impreza; 10-31-2005 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Disclaimer |
10-31-2005, 12:14 PM | #2 |
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Step 2
Step 2:
Remove the underside of the driver's side dash along with the metal brace crossing over the steering column. This will give a better view of the wiring unit. Next find the door wiring unit under the dash. It is located to the upper right of the fuse panel. It should have two plugs, a white one on the left and blue on the right. Now get out your test light or volt meter to make sure you get the right wires. (I did this on an '05 RS) the two wires I needed were the lower right corner wires. Red and Red/Green. Simply press the test light into the back of the plug at each wire and press the remote. There is a 12v output when you press the unlock button. Test until you find both wires. The Red wire sends an output signal with the first push of the remote unlock button. It is connected to the driver's side door. The Red/Green wire sends an output signal with the second push of the remote unlock button. It is connect to the remaining 3 doors. You will need to cut the second wire, red/green, wire. Make sure to leave plenty of room remaing on the plug end. Take the wire heading away from the plug and tap it into the first wire (red wire) This will allow unlocking of all 4 wires with one press of the unlock button. The second wire should now be exposed coming out of the plug. Last edited by VR4Impreza; 10-31-2005 at 12:53 PM. |
10-31-2005, 12:19 PM | #3 |
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Step 3
Step 3:
With the red/green wire exposed from the plug you must now wire your relay. I used a standard bosch relay, 85 = Ground 86 = Red/Green second button output from control box 87a = Dead 87 = Positive wire from Trunk Release 30 = Constant fused power OR 87a on deactivation relay. Last edited by VR4Impreza; 10-31-2005 at 12:28 PM. |
10-31-2005, 12:22 PM | #4 |
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Step 4
Reconnect the battery and test.
Press unlock once, all 4 doors should unlock Press unlock twice, trunk release should activate Now the downside to this mod ..... when you press unlock on your door panel it activates your trunk release. I thought I had a way around it. It didn't work. So for now I have it wire the easy way. The next step will deactivate your trunk release when your ignition is on (to avoid accidental trunk release while driving) |
10-31-2005, 02:55 PM | #5 | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
In order to prevent the trunk from opening when the door switch is used, do this: 1. Cut the yellow wire leading into the integrated module that shows ground when the unlock switch is pressed. BTW, this wire rests open, not at +12V. 2. Connect the switch end of the yellow wire to pin 85 on a standard relay. Connect 86 to +12V constant (or even better, tap off the key-sense wire which is white/red and only shows +12V when the key is in the ignition--instant security feature). Cut the red wire coming out of the integrated module that shows +12V on unlock, which you spliced the red/green wire to originally. Now put the plug end of the red wire to pin 87a. Connect 87 to fused +12V and then 30 to the joined red and red/green wires. This will work b/c it prevents the integrated module from ever seeing an unlock signal from the door switch, but will still put +12V to the unlock motors when the switch is used. -Dave |
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03-23-2007, 06:24 PM | #6 | |
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Quote:
As long as it rests on neg when you want the trunk release to be operational it should work..... Good Luck |
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10-31-2005, 12:25 PM | #7 |
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Step 5
Step 5: Deactivation Relay
Using a second relay wire as follows .... 85 = Ground 86 = +12v with Ignition 87a = To #30 on door unlock relay 87 = Dead 30 = Constant fused power. |
10-31-2005, 12:42 PM | #8 |
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Now for the part I can't figure out .... how to wire this so the damn unlock button doesn't pop my trunk.
I found the wire that connects to the button. It is a yellow wire coming from my door. It is a constant +12v, when you ground it the doors unlock. Therefore I figure I can wire a relay that when it recieves that ground signal it will disconnect power to my trunk release. .. should work right???? I wire a relay the following 85 = +12v fused 86 = Yellow wire (+12v constant, ground when unlock button is pressed) 87a = Constant 12v to trunk relay (#30) 87 = Dead 30 = Constant fused 12v Next I used a test light to test this. I have a constant 12v coming out of my relay when I do nothing (so the remote will work) If I press the unlock on the door, no power, the light goes out .... so therefore I should not have any power heading to my trunk release when I press unlock, even if the relay is activated it should not have 12v going to it to power the release... confident I have it figured out I went ahead and wired it all up as follows Door Unlock Relay 85 = +12v Constant 86 = Door Unlock Signal (ground) 87a = to #30 on Trunk Relay 87 = Dead 30 = Constant fused power Trunk Relay 85 = Ground 86 = Second buttom press signal 87a = Dead 87 = Trunk Release Power 30 = 87a from Door Unlock Relay And it still unlocks pops the trunk when I press the button ..... HELP!!! I even rewired it to interrupt the circuit and still no luck.. HELP!!! |
10-31-2005, 01:27 PM | #9 |
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First off when you say the red/green wire is connected to the remaining 2 doors you mean all four right? Otherwise the 2nd button only wouldnt unlock the driver door the way yours is wired... right?
Now the hard part... I think you can wire it up with one relay... you want a relay to deactivate the circuit when the ignition is on... so it should technically be on when the ignition is off but it will only be getting an on signal when you hit the button If I can think my thoughts onto pin outs ill put it up if I think of something |
10-31-2005, 01:37 PM | #10 |
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Ok I now see the problem...
You need the red/green wire to go to a relay... this relay will only be open when the ignition is off, otherwise itll be closed... then wire the output (87) of that relay into the input (86) of the 2nd relay which will then only output if the ignition is off... makes sense? The way you have it now the red/green wire is always getting to the trunk relay I dont think it will let you pop the trunk with the remote though if the car is on now... you can always have a button in the car to electric pop it but I dont think itll work with the remote if the car is on any help? |
10-31-2005, 02:14 PM | #11 |
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1st... I meant 3 remaining doors. The first (red) wire unlocks your drivers door. The second then unlocks the other 3. So you jump that wire onto the first wire, which then unlocks all 4 with the first button ... make better sense. I would show you pics, but they didn't come out clear, I need a new camera
As for the relay wiring. All I need to do is wire a simple relay inline to the power of my trunk release that is constant on (87a) when I turn on ignition it switchs to 87 which is no connected, therefore while I have the relay activated (ignition on) I have an open circuit (no power) I shut off the car, the relay deactivates and I now close the circuit. Thats not my problem.... If I sit in the car with the ignition off and press unlock to open the passenger door, it still sends a signal to my trunk release relay which then opens my trunk. I could easily cut the wires as I think I have used the button 3 times, but I like to have functional buttons. I want to wire a relay that shuts off the trunk release when I press the door unlock button. |
10-31-2005, 02:53 PM | #12 |
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Oh ok... I get it now... good luck with that though... should be able to find out a way but I cant think right now
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10-31-2005, 03:38 PM | #13 |
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okay... what it sounds like to me is this...
Originally the red wire unlocked driver's door only... Originally the red/green wire unlocked all 4... now red wire unlocks all 4 and red/green pops trunk... door switch unlock sends power to the red/green wire... you need to trace that out, cut it, and splice it to the connection where you spliced the red and red/green together. That is all... then switch will unlock doors and not pop trunk... need to be sure you get it where they all come together though, otherwise other switches inside may still pop trunk. |
10-31-2005, 03:45 PM | #14 | |
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10-31-2005, 03:52 PM | #15 |
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^^^ what he said.
Just look at what I said at the end of my post above, it will fix the problem. |
10-31-2005, 10:12 PM | #16 |
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just an afterthought... couldnt you use the panic button config to activate a trunk release? or does the button just activate the brain and it would deactivate the alarm if wired that way?
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10-31-2005, 10:25 PM | #17 |
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I thought about the panic button but then the trunk would release repeatedly until deactivated.
HolyMahWah thanks for the info, It makes sense now. I going to look it over again and try it when I get some free time. I should have an answer by Thursday. Thanks everyone for the input |
11-01-2005, 12:13 AM | #18 |
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wouldn't it work easier if you found the trigger wires from the keyless module and used them instead of getting into the door system? Just a thought...
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11-01-2005, 08:06 AM | #19 | |
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11-01-2005, 09:12 AM | #20 |
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exactly ptirmal. I think holymahwah has it figured out. I am going to draw a diagram up today and I'll post it for everyone to look at to make sure I understand it right. I'll then test some wires and put it into effect. I knew if I got some people talking about this we'd find a way to do it right. ......
Someday |
11-03-2005, 10:35 AM | #21 |
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Thursday bump
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11-03-2005, 11:24 AM | #22 |
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Here is a diagram I drew up. I haven't tried it yet. Probably will this weekend. But it makes sense. Thanks HolyMaWah for the help.
Last edited by VR4Impreza; 11-03-2005 at 11:26 AM. Reason: fixed link |
11-03-2005, 12:48 PM | #23 |
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Just wanted to confirm, the spliced red and red/green wire for the door defeat switch, pin 30 is tapped into that so it will still allow the doors to be unlocked no matter what, correct? 3x 12v const.'s huh, lol...
what should it be fused at? I'm not familiar with what the trunk solenoid pulls? |
11-03-2005, 01:11 PM | #24 |
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VR4--nice diagrams!
I would think that 15A would be okay for the trunk solenoid. But when you purchase the solenoid, it will have either a fuse with it already or instructions on which size to use. As regards the +12V sources... 1. The source for the trunk solenoid should come either straight from the battery or the constant +12V at the ignition harness. It should be 14ga wire. 2. The source for pins 86 and 87 on the by-pass relay can simply be tapped off the source for the solenoid (at any convenient location before the relay and after the 15A fuse) with 18ga wire and a 5A fuse. Also don't forget that if you want to prevent the trunk from opening accidentily while the car is running, connect pin 85 on the solenoid relay to the ignition wire, which will only pass ground when the car is off. ptirmal--not sure about your first question. Perhaps you could re-phrase it? But yes, the door locks will still work normally, that is why pin 87a is connected to the red wire from the integrated module (this rests at ground and is needed when you're locking the doors). |
11-03-2005, 01:19 PM | #25 |
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ptirmal, I think I understand your question...
The reason the spliced red green wire is hooked to 30 is so when you press the remote unlock, it sends a signal to the red wired, which will then pass straight through the deactivated relay, allowing remote operation of your locks without interruption. Then when you press the door unlock button the relay activates and sends 12v just as it would if it were still attached to the remote box. Thanks for the compliments HolyMahwah ... I guess my engineering degree finally came in handy, if I can't find a job in the field, at least I can draw a nice diagram here and there |
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