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Old 05-23-2013, 11:13 PM   #2926
Celery GT-5
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unless you are using dino oil its totally pointless
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:43 AM   #2927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corvid View Post
gotcha. My dealership is still using the 3750 so Ill roll with it
My 2011 came with the free 2yr 24k maintenance including oil changes, they only give you enough oil changes to equal out to doing one every 7500. If you do them every 3000 then you run out of them in half the time. I wouldn't think dealerships would vary in that department.
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Old 05-24-2013, 12:49 AM   #2928
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Dealerships are all over the place with this stuff
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Old 05-24-2013, 01:21 AM   #2929
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Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
My 2011 came with the free 2yr 24k maintenance including oil changes, they only give you enough oil changes to equal out to doing one every 7500. If you do them every 3000 then you run out of them in half the time. I wouldn't think dealerships would vary in that department.
Its more of a personal thing
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:42 AM   #2930
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Originally Posted by corvid View Post
Its more of a personal thing
That's cool, I have been doing my oil changes at 3k since I got the car. I personally will look into at least slightly longer intervals if the oil is still doing what it needs to do after 3k. In my mind that 3k oci was accurate for the Dino oil back in the day when synthetic didn't exist but it doesn't seem like it applies to today's synthetics. In the other hand piece of mind is a very important thing, I will be doing a Blackstone test before I do that for my own piece of mind.
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Old 05-24-2013, 04:58 PM   #2931
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Anyone else have the annoying clutch squeak? Mine sounds like it's coming from the firewall. I tried to spray some white lithium grease but did no good. It only squeaks after I've driven it around for a little bit and its only at the last inch of the clutch pedal being pushed in. Doesn't sound like a throwout bearing or the firewall flexing.
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Old 05-24-2013, 05:19 PM   #2932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
Anyone else have the annoying clutch squeak? Mine sounds like it's coming from the firewall. I tried to spray some white lithium grease but did no good. It only squeaks after I've driven it around for a little bit and its only at the last inch of the clutch pedal being pushed in. Doesn't sound like a throwout bearing or the firewall flexing.
Check if your firewall welds are broken.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:28 PM   #2933
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I think I'm reverting back to stock tomorrow and taking it in for it. Doesn't seem like it's the firewall but I'd rather take it in while I still have a warranty.
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:29 PM   #2934
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Is their anyway to get a look at the welds without removing the entire dash?

Edit: nvm actually found your YouTube video (xabre) . I will check that out first, thanks for the info
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:41 PM   #2935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
Is their anyway to get a look at the welds without removing the entire dash?

Edit: nvm actually found your YouTube video (xabre) . I will check that out first, thanks for the info
Ah yeah I was going to make an entire video of the process but I had no idea what I was doing lol. Pretty much just take off the windshield wipers, remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic panel to your car that's right under your windshield wipers, remove the bolts that hold in the windshield wiper motor and you can see all the welds. It should be pretty obvious is your welds are broken but id have someone go in and step on the clutch. A tip is to take your time removing the little plastic piece that hold the larger plastic trim to the left and right side of your car. They are very easy to break... Which is why my right side is being held in by double sided tape (
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Old 05-24-2013, 09:56 PM   #2936
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xabre1200 View Post

Ah yeah I was going to make an entire video of the process but I had no idea what I was doing lol. Pretty much just take off the windshield wipers, remove the plastic clips that hold the plastic panel to your car that's right under your windshield wipers, remove the bolts that hold in the windshield wiper motor and you can see all the welds. It should be pretty obvious is your welds are broken but id have someone go in and step on the clutch. A tip is to take your time removing the little plastic piece that hold the larger plastic trim to the left and right side of your car. They are very easy to break... Which is why my right side is being held in by double sided tape (
I appreciate the info. So it seems I won't have to remove the wiper motor to be able to see the welds? Is yours still squeaking?
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:12 PM   #2937
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Here is a pretty good write up- http://www.wrxforums.com/forums/84-d...olt-style.html

Maybe I won't jump the gun and revert back to stock yet. Will be checking on this in the morning first.
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Old 05-25-2013, 01:30 AM   #2938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post
I appreciate the info. So it seems I won't have to remove the wiper motor to be able to see the welds? Is yours still squeaking?
You don't have to but it's only 3 bolts so I think you might as well just to be certain since there are some welds in hard to see places.
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:03 AM   #2939
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Do you guys think that if I get the lid on my cobb sf intake box powder coated it would hold up? I'm also thinking about the top side of my Grimmspeed turbo heat shield but I don't know if it will hold up. I do have a turbo blanket and the underside on the heat shield with DEI gold tape. I was told that powder coated is good for up to 400 F. I think it will be ok. What do you guys think?
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:16 PM   #2940
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Do you guys think that if I get the lid on my cobb sf intake box powder coated it would hold up? I'm also thinking about the top side of my Grimmspeed turbo heat shield but I don't know if it will hold up. I do have a turbo blanket and the underside on the heat shield with DEI gold tape. I was told that powder coated is good for up to 400 F. I think it will be ok. What do you guys think?
The intake lid should be fine. I don't think the heat shield would hold up though, is it just going to be for looks? Try VHT spray paint
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Old 05-25-2013, 12:19 PM   #2941
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xabre1200 View Post

You don't have to but it's only 3 bolts so I think you might as well just to be certain since there are some welds in hard to see places.
Yeah I'm going to take it out and look at it. I am think the rod on the master cylinder is the issue actually. It's just really hard to get a can of lubricant in that area.
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Old 05-25-2013, 05:45 PM   #2942
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The spot welds are fine, I think it's the master cylinder. Will probably take it in sometime soon.
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Old 05-25-2013, 08:27 PM   #2943
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Got 4th gear tuned by Nuke at NF today!

Last edited by rmj; 05-25-2013 at 09:45 PM.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:52 AM   #2944
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PearlRex11 View Post

The intake lid should be fine. I don't think the heat shield would hold up though, is it just going to be for looks? Try VHT spray paint
Yeah it will just be to add some bling to the engine bay!! I sure hope the tip side of my heat shield doesn't reach 400 F. Yeah but I'm not sure. I'll have to ask the coater guy and see what he thinks. I tried searching for pics but couldn't find anyone who powder coated the heat shield. Just ceramic coat and VHT paint.
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Old 05-26-2013, 01:59 PM   #2945
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Originally Posted by FerdSimao View Post

Yeah it will just be to add some bling to the engine bay!! I sure hope the tip side of my heat shield doesn't reach 400 F. Yeah but I'm not sure. I'll have to ask the coater guy and see what he thinks. I tried searching for pics but couldn't find anyone who powder coated the heat shield. Just ceramic coat and VHT paint.
I believe the turbo gets significantly hotter than that (1000°+) and the heat shields job is to absorb/deflect that heat, I have a feeling the powder coat will discolor at the very least. It would be interesting to see the outcome though, I hope it works out.
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Old 05-26-2013, 03:03 PM   #2946
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I understand that the turbo gets that hot. But my turbo is wrapped in thePTP blanket and the underside of my Grimmspeed heat shield has the DEI gold tape so I believe the top of the heat shield doesn't get that hot. I mean I can touch it after hard driving. So it might be ok to powder coat. I guess I will see.
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Old 05-26-2013, 04:04 PM   #2947
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FerdSimao View Post
I understand that the turbo gets that hot. But my turbo is wrapped in thePTP blanket and the underside of my Grimmspeed heat shield has the DEI gold tape so I believe the top of the heat shield doesn't get that hot. I mean I can touch it after hard driving. So it might be ok to powder coat. I guess I will see.
Yeah that doesn't sound too bad then, didn't remember seeing you had a blanket on it.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #2948
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Update on the clutch squeak. I found a "mod" friendly Subaru dealership and ended up taking my car in this morning with the dp+tune on it. I told them that the clutch had a squeak in it and they ended up calling me later today and said that the clutch was harder to press than it was supposed to be and that is causing the squeak due to the higher strain on the clutch pedal assembly (not sure the technical term for each little component) so they are replacing the clutch, throwout bearing and flywheel under warranty. The service writer also told me that SOA will replace your clutch no questions asked if they find something wrong with it and you are still under your 3yr/36k but only once during that time and the extended warranty doesn't cover the clutch after the 36k is up. They are even covering my loaner Chevy Cruze for the next day or two for them to finish the work. Hope that info helps someone.
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Old 05-30-2013, 12:57 AM   #2949
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Good to hear
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Old 05-30-2013, 04:32 AM   #2950
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Update on the clutch squeak. I found a "mod" friendly Subaru dealership and ended up taking my car in this morning with the dp+tune on it. I told them that the clutch had a squeak in it and they ended up calling me later today and said that the clutch was harder to press than it was supposed to be and that is causing the squeak due to the higher strain on the clutch pedal assembly (not sure the technical term for each little component) so they are replacing the clutch, throwout bearing and flywheel under warranty. The service writer also told me that SOA will replace your clutch no questions asked if they find something wrong with it and you are still under your 3yr/36k but only once during that time and the extended warranty doesn't cover the clutch after the 36k is up. They are even covering my loaner Chevy Cruze for the next day or two for them to finish the work. Hope that info helps someone.
I had mine replaced at 11k, with zero mods. I was told it was probably a faulty clutch, and that even though they used up the one replacement under warranty, they still can replace it again should another issue arise. Something about a good will program or something along those lines...
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