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05-19-2003, 01:30 AM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 4738
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Philadelphia PA
Vehicle:2006 Baja Turbo Blue |
Help. '97 GT w/auto trans. Clutch packs need to be replaced?
I have a 1997 Legacy GT, with an automatic transmission. 94,000 miles.
The dealer says the binding feeling is the AWD system, and I need new clutch packs in the transfer case. And the cost is around $700. Is this in the front differential? The center differential? Or the rear differential? Does that cost sound right? Is there something else I should consider, such as a replacement with a limited slip differential?
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05-19-2003, 08:37 AM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4800
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Houston, Tx
Vehicle:1990 Legacy & OB XT AWD 6MT EJ22T AWIC Swap |
the clutch packs are in the rear extension housing of the automatic transmission.
I suggest you take a look at these for more detailed info: http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...er_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...er_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...er_system3.jpg Before you shell out the money for new clutch packs. I suggest you change your fluid, possibly get it flushed. Also there is an additive that can be added to help with the binding issue. Your subaru dealer should be able to get it. |
05-19-2003, 05:29 PM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Down by the sea
Vehicle:Four Count 'em GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5 |
Have you been doing maintenance on the car at the recommended intervals? If so, then it could just be a matter of flushing, replacing the A/T fluid and adding the special clutch pack additive that legacy777 mentions. This will make the clutch pack work more efficiently and quietly.
You mention "binding" - what are your symptoms/indicators? Did you check the outside diameter on your tires (front and rear). If you've got more than 1/4" of rotational difference (outside diameter) between your tires (side-to-side/front-to-rear) than your going to get binding in the drivetrain guaranteed. Jack up your car, set the tire pressure to factory specs (32 front/30 rear) and measure the outside diameter of each tire use a sewing tape measure. Hypothetical situation: Front LT: 43.5" Front RT: 43.2" Difference: +.3" Rear LT: 43.2" Rear RT: 43.6" Difference: +.4" In this situation you've got more than 1/4" rotational difference between the two tires on each axle and nearly 1/4" front to rear so your tires are likely causing this bindup as the AWD system tries to manage the differences in wheel speed between the individual wheels. This happens alot if you put on just two tires on the front or just on the rear, which means that one set of tires is more worn than the other set. Or you may have different manufacturers tires on your car. If this is the case, I'd recommend changing all of your tires (if they fail the measurement test) and putting on fresh new tires. Or, if you can, find someone with a good set of tires who can loan you their's so you can try it out and see if it changes your binding problem. There's a lot to do and check before you drop $700 on the dealer's doorstep to do the repair so let us know how it comes out. Br, Dale |
05-19-2003, 08:03 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 4738
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Philadelphia PA
Vehicle:2006 Baja Turbo Blue |
Thanks guys.
Thanks for the good advice guys.
For the record, yes there has been regular maintenance. And all four tires are the same (205-55-16 Dunlop SP5000), with the same wear. They were put on at the same time, and have been rotated several times over their life. The tires appear to be worn approximately the same. But, I have never physically measured the outside circumference of the tires, and I think its a great idea to do so, because I have heard that the same model tires are not all exactly of the same dimensions, or at least they could have a slight difference; enough to make a 1/4" difference in circumference. The binding I've felt is at very low speeds, such as in parking lots, when turning the steering wheel while moving. I have noticed that if I shift the transmission into neutral for the last 15-feet (approx 1-car length) of a turn into a parking space, I generally do not notice the binding. Does that help diagnose anything? Thanks again to those who responded. |
05-19-2003, 08:34 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 12588
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Down by the sea
Vehicle:Four Count 'em GF5,BDA,BD5, BP5 |
I noticed on my autos that the front tires (during the winter ice and snow), tended to wear marginally faster than the rears because I would almost always get wheel spin on the fronts with the 90/10 F/R center diff bias on the 4EAT before the rears would kick in. By then the car was moving and the rears would then barely spin. Also, since you've got an open diffs on both ends of your car, you'll more than likely have wear differences side-to-side too. So, if the tires turn out to be out-of-spec for the AWD, then you've got one other area to focus on before you go in for repair.
Since you've performed regular maintenance, I think that the previous suggestion to do a good cleaning/flushing of the old fluid, especially after a cold, wet winter, and re-filling with some fresh fluid and the clutch pack additive will do you wonders. I had this same issue on my 98 GT (@ 27,000 miles) and when I did the 30K maintenance on it, I changed out the fluid and have had no more issues with the bind up since then. Keep us appraised of your analysis and your fix. Br, Dale |
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