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Old 09-20-2020, 10:29 PM   #1
CBC_North
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Default Low oil pressure, P0011

Hey all, have some questions about an issue I'm having with my 2009 wrx (145,000 km). Bone stock except for a torqued performance stage 1 etune I flashed about 7 years ago and haven't had any issues with. Wondering if anyone has some suggestions.

-Two weeks ago-
Pulling onto the highway it stumbled pretty hard and I got a flashing engine light. Pulled the code, P0301 - Misfire cylinder 1. I changed the spark plugs on the passenger side. They weren't in spectacular shape so not surprised at the code. I replaced the power steering pump at the same time (airbox and inlet was off at this time). Disconnected battery to clear code. Drove it onto a few onramps and didn't get the code again.

-Week ago-
About to drive an hour away on the highway. Get to 110 KM/H and put on cruise control. About 2 minutes into the drive, get an engine light. Immediately turn around and bring it home. Pull code P0011 - Timing over advanced Bank 1. Do a search on here, not good. First troubleshooting step, did an oil change (was time anyways). Cleared code with a reader and took it for a short easy test drive to my friends place to feed his cats (less than 5 minutes away). It was parked on his steeply inclined driveway. Leaving, had a hard time starting it. Drive home was bad. Very rough idle (almost like a misfire). Coming to a stop with clutch in and at an idle, aftermarket oil gauge was showing consistent low oil pressure (usually hot idles around 15 PSI but was dropping to about 8 and staying there. I have it set to alarm at 10). Managed to get it home.

-Next Day-
Try to reproduce low pressure at warm idle so I can give the tech proper instructions on how to see the issue if I bring it in. Started it and let it idle to temp. Cold start oil pressure is normal. Quick drive around the block. On throttle, oil pressure seems good, 60 PSI. Once it's up to temp properly start seeing the 8 PSI oil pressure at idle. Park it. Read every thread on nasioc related to low oil pressure and the P0011 trouble code.

-Dealership-
Next morning it went to the dealership (reputable dealership that I have worked with in the past) as I don't have the space in my building's parking lot or the tools to give this a proper attempt to fix. Tech monitored the car on a test drive and indicated oil control valve was slow to respond. First thing they did was pull and replace the oil control valve on passenger side. Makes sense for the code but maybe not for the consistently low oil pressure. No change in behavior.

They then suggest the next thing to check is cam phaser. I'm not convinced based on the low oil pressure reading and the way the tech said "the next step in our troubleshooting docs says to..."

Based on what I've read here I told them to first pull the oil pan and replace the pickup tube (wether it was damaged or not). They're going to do that in a day or two when the tube comes in.

If the pickup tube is NOT the issue what do you all suggest to check. Does the cam phaser make sense? Would it cause a low pressure reading?
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Old 09-21-2020, 07:25 AM   #2
Max Capacity
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I'm no expert in this area but I do believe the cam phaser or AVCS would be the next step.

BTW, have you replaced the plugs in #2 & #4 cylinders along with the ones in #1 & #3 ? They should be done around 60,000 miles.
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Old 09-21-2020, 08:48 AM   #3
CBC_North
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The plugs were all changed at their regular intervals last time. I put in ngk iridium plugs and honestly they should have lasted longer than this. I'll be changing the others when I get the car back. It was really a time restriction as to why I only changed the bad side instead of all 4.
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Old 09-21-2020, 05:31 PM   #4
KillerBMotorsport
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Single AVCS engines do not drop that much pressure from the cam solenoids activating. Let me rephrase that... I've seen a lot of stuff go wrong, and I've never seen AVCS issues cause THAT much of a pressure drop.

While I'd love to say, slap an oil pickup on and it will fix it, but I suspect you may have other issues. I would immediately pull the oil filter and cut it open to verify it's not what I think it is. After that, get a mechanical gauge to verify pressure and eliminate the possibility of a bad sensor or gauge.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:19 PM   #5
CBC_North
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
I would immediately pull the oil filter and cut it open to verify it's not what I think it is.
What specifically am I looking for in the oil filter (will have to ask the dealership to do this since they are pulling the oil pan). What are you thinking the issue is?
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Old 09-21-2020, 10:34 PM   #6
subaru_gc8
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im going to go with your bearings are shot
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Old 09-21-2020, 11:13 PM   #7
MattZ
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What about AVCS banjo bolt filters... being clogged? Ever replace or gut the filters?
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Old 09-22-2020, 06:55 AM   #8
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBC_North View Post
What specifically am I looking for in the oil filter (will have to ask the dealership to do this since they are pulling the oil pan). What are you thinking the issue is?
Any metal in the filter media pleats. It will either be fairly clear of debris, or not. This give you pretty instant feedback on if the bearings are spun.
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Old 09-22-2020, 07:12 AM   #9
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBC_North View Post
What specifically am I looking for in the oil filter (will have to ask the dealership to do this since they are pulling the oil pan). What are you thinking the issue is?
Any metal in the filter media pleats. It will either be fairly clear of debris, or not. This give you pretty instant feedback on if the bearings are spun.
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Old 09-22-2020, 08:06 AM   #10
CBC_North
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Thanks. I'll ask them to check for that and keep the filter for me to inspect myself as well.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:01 AM   #11
Max Capacity
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May be sending a oil sample off to Blackstone Labs might be a good idea...?
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:38 PM   #12
KillerBMotorsport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
May be sending a oil sample off to Blackstone Labs might be a good idea...?
Eh, if you have a bearing failing, it will be seen in the filter. You'll get a quicker answer for less money going the filter route.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge proponent of Blackstone Lab's Oil Analysis service. I have every oil change on ever shop car and engine build since ~2005; hundreds of them. They are a good tool for engine builders and determining wear characteristics, as well as oil, fuel and power compatibility. They have saved us on more than one occasion from an engine failure, essentially allowing us to have a planned rebuild vs unplanned.

Without any 'before' historical data here I don't know if it would be any more conclusive.
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Old 09-22-2020, 03:39 PM   #13
Max Capacity
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Black/silver

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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Eh, if you have a bearing failing, it will be seen in the filter. You'll get a quicker answer for less money going the filter route.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge proponent of Blackstone Lab's Oil Analysis service. I have every oil change on ever shop car and engine build since ~2005; hundreds of them. They are a good tool for engine builders and determining wear characteristics, as well as oil, fuel and power compatibility. They have saved us on more than one occasion from an engine failure, essentially allowing us to have a planned rebuild vs unplanned.

Without any 'before' historical data here I don't know if it would be any more conclusive.
Understand, no problem.
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