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Old 12-30-2006, 07:02 PM   #1
El Capitan
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Lightbulb APv2.0 mounting option

I picked up the APv2.0 last week. So far, so good. I noticed on one of the other postings that a few people were trying to brainstorm a way to mount it so that you could utilize and view the various features while driving.

As I was walking through Target this morning (diaper run) I noticed this little universal ipod holder that I never noticed before. The more I looked at it the more it looked like it might work well and for only like $10.00, I figured it was worth a look.

Well, the AP fits in it like the thing was made to. Even the color matches spot on. It's very secure. It fits on to the A/C vent and can be seen pretty well. I'm thinking a better place to mont it could be found, but this thing is a good start.

I don't think it would be good for permanent mounting as is, but works well for short time use. I think if you wanted to leave it there, a way to better run the USB cable would be needed. I think maybe popping the OBDII port through the knee bolster and securing it out of the way and running the USB out somewhere more connivent with a USB 90 elbow would work.

Please excuse the fuzziness. The focus on my cammera $hit the bed awhile back. It works when it wants to.






Last edited by El Capitan; 01-01-2007 at 09:15 PM.
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Old 12-30-2006, 08:56 PM   #2
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OMG, you're a genius! haha I've been messing around with velcro, double-sided tape and STILL can't get the damn thing mounted without moving around. I'm definitely doing what you did
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Old 12-30-2006, 09:14 PM   #3
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I had the price wrong. It was only $6.99 not $10.00
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Old 12-31-2006, 12:39 AM   #4
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wow, nice!
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Old 01-01-2007, 08:56 PM   #5
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pics no worky for me.
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Old 01-01-2007, 09:18 PM   #6
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Should work now.

I cleaned up my photobucket today and moved them. Relatives don't like to see pics of APv2s in with pics of thier Grandchildren as the scroll through.

I am trying to find a couple of USB 90 degree elbow adaptors. I have a few ideas to mount the holder in a place other than the AC vent but the fact the Cable comes straight out the bottom and won't bend for about 2 inches is screwing me up.

I found a couple of places online that sell cables with the elbows I'm looking for bu the shipping is almost as much as the part. I'm sure I can find a local place that carries the thing I need.

Last edited by El Capitan; 01-01-2007 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:35 PM   #7
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Ok. Done. Here is what I came up with for MY final mounting solution. What do you think? I disconected the OBD II port and resecured it up in the dash. I found a realy freaken awsome USB swivel adaptor at radio shack and used one of the million USB cables that I have that was much shorter than the supplied one. If you would like to know what I had to do to mount this thing, let me know. Total cost was between $20-$25.


I know it blocks out my speedo a bit, but I don't normaly get up past 140mph and if I ever get the chance too ("The Texas Mile" maybe?) then I can take it off and as you see below, everything is then visible.


This is what it looks like without the AP.


The cable goes in through the colum and thanks to the swivel it doesn't interfere with anything.


Just before I secured it up in the dash. I can still get to it if I want to connect a laptop.

Last edited by El Capitan; 01-02-2007 at 06:53 PM.
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:51 PM   #8
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This is awsome man! Nice Work El Capitan . Thats a perfect mounting spot
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Old 01-02-2007, 07:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kite View Post
This is awsome man! Nice Work El Capitan . Thats a perfect mounting spot
+2, I'm amazed that it looks like it came from the factory that way, great job!
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Old 01-03-2007, 11:50 PM   #10
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Default Cobb Ap V2.0

How do you like the AP unit as a whole? I know this should be in a new thread but I am not sure how else to get people involved...you guys obviously care enough about it. Is it worth getting? Any troubles? How is flashing on the fly?
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:19 PM   #11
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Very nice!

I was planning on saving a few hundred and purchasing a V1 AP, but after seeing this thread, I'm sold on a V2!
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:13 PM   #12
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How did you secure the mount to the dash like that? It does not look like you used the metal clips that are provided on the mount, but I could be wrong. Nice work, looks awesome.
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Old 01-04-2007, 01:20 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Proroe View Post
How did you secure the mount to the dash like that? It does not look like you used the metal clips that are provided on the mount, but I could be wrong. Nice work, looks awesome.
Didn't use the clips (took it apart and removed them). I'll work on trying to put together a parts list and a breif overview of the path I took. Most people on NASIOC are pretty smart so I don't think I need to spell out every single thing. Most of it is pretty intuitive and it's likely that many of you will kinda pick up my idea and make it better.

I got the idea by looking at the computer mounted on the column of the car on the Cobb website. I wanted to mount it so the screen was visualy in the middle/bottom of the TACH, but couldn't figure out how to get it to mount that low AND still beable to access the controls AND keep the tilt function of the column. Maybe a future project when I have time. Maybe if there was a software change to allow the AP to rotate it's screen 90 degees so it doesn't sit so high.

This is what gave me the idea.

Last edited by El Capitan; 01-04-2007 at 01:48 PM.
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:37 PM   #14
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Default AP v2.0

I am not sure why but I thought that the new AP came with three settings for a car that has not been modded; econmic, stock, and performance, which you can flash to your ecu and that if you wanted to do more with it you could get the street tuner app. Is that not the case?

Also do you have a "backout" plan? For example if you wanted to take it in to the dealer can you go back to stock settings?

I have read that the stock ECU can only take something like 100 flashes before it locks down and that the AP v2.0 is supposed to be awesome because it does not prohibit you from flashing a lot...is it not technically a reflash...I am confused on this because from modding other electronics I am not sure how you could not flash and still controll a unit without using a piggyback ecu or something similar.

Pardon my ignorance, that is why I am on this forum to get educated. Thanks for all your help.

Last edited by scoobrex; 01-04-2007 at 03:43 PM.
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:08 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobrex View Post
I am not sure why but I thought that the new AP came with three settings for a car that has not been modded; econmic, stock, and performance, which you can flash to your ecu and that if you wanted to do more with it you could get the street tuner app. Is that not the case?

Also do you have a "backout" plan? For example if you wanted to take it in to the dealer can you go back to stock settings?

I have read that the stock ECU can only take something like 100 flashes before it locks down and that the AP v2.0 is supposed to be awesome because it does not prohibit you from flashing a lot...is it not technically a reflash...I am confused on this because from modding other electronics I am not sure how you could not flash and still control a unit without using a piggyback ecu or something similar.

Pardon my ignorance, that is why I am on this forum to get educated. Thanks for all your help.
I use my right foot to control my fuel economy. I might wanna haul butt sometimes and if I have to econ map in then I will be lacking.

I haven't had to go to stock yet. Since I bought my AP from my dealer (Hotsubarus.com) and they did the STG-1 flash for me at the dealership. And the dealer parts manager races Auto-X with me and most of the guys from dealer are here on NASIOC all the time, I think the fact that I have a AP would be a hard fact to hide with a striaght face. Subaru of Plano is a mod freindly dealer as long as the mods are done with in reason.

I think the reason you can reflash often is because you are changing the Realtime Maps more often as opposed to the base map. A base map is what the ECU will default back to if it's ever reset due to something like the battery being undone. The realtime maps will be deleted and replaced with the base map if the ECU ever gets unplugged. On a stock car,the realtime is the result of the ECU learning prossess in which the ECU tweeks the basemap based on the input from it's sensors and can be changed often with no detrimental effects to the ECU. In fact, the ECU changes the realtime map all the time as it adjusts the advance, AP or not.

The AP allows you to not only change the basemap, but change the realtime map as well. If I understand it right, you could install a base map, then install a different realtime map, and as long as you never disconect direct power from the ECU, the ECU would never look at the base map. But if you did disconect the power, the RAM (for lackof a better term)gets erased it reverts to the base map which doesn't depend on 12volts to retain it's map image. Kind of like your computers RAM clears when you turn it off and when you turn it on again, the computer goes to the hard-drive to get the OS kerrnel again.

I think. What do you think tuning gods...did I get that right?

Last edited by El Capitan; 01-04-2007 at 05:21 PM.
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:39 PM   #16
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Currently I'm at just STG1 with no engine mods. The flash was easy and I had no issues while doing it. I feel a noticeable difference from the stock map. I haven't tried flashing on the fly as of yet. I don't have street tuner so I'm not tuning myself and therfore there is only one map I would be able to try at this point. I'll get a protune for normal driving and one for STU once I get a DP and I'm waiting to pay down my CC from Christmas before jumping into that. I'm going for new springs to go with the RSB and FSB I just bought after I buy the DP.

All my mods generaly go towards trying to support Auto-X. (STU)

I'm sure the APv1 could get you the same performance as far as maps, but I bought the v2 becasue of the greater potensial for further availible software upgrades. Plus it just looks better, I normaly go for function over form, but I think the v2's size and USB are worth a lot.
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:42 PM   #17
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Here is how I did it.

Parts
- Type S generic cell phone/ ipod mount purchased from Target. Price: $6.99


- RadioShack USB "A" swivel adaptor. Price: $10.00
- One of the dozen extra "shorter" USB cable I have from the other gadgets. Price: Free
- Stanley "2.5" bracket. See pic for a better description. Home Depot hardware dept. Price: $.80 maybe?


- ***190; inch or so 8/32 thread machine screws with recessed head. Home Depot hardware dept. I guess you could use what ever you wanted so long as it fit in the bracket holes.
- 8/32 square nuts (in the shape of a square). Home Depot hardware dept. Price: $1.00 maybe?



Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Slotted screwdriver
- Dremmel (or a file or what ever you need to remove some material)
- Electric drill and a bit to drill a hole for what ever size machine screw you have.
- Sharpe marker


1. Take apart the mount and remove the clips from the back. Notice the slot that is left. Using a dremmel or a file or what ever you can get, make the bottom of the slot even with the existing low spot TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE BRACKET.

2. Take one of your machine screws and thread a square nut all the way down to the head. Place it so that the nut is in the inside of the holder so that the threads face out of the back. Notice how the nut slides flat against the plastic inside the mount and prevents it from spinning. It fits perfect, didn't plan it that way, but it just worked out.


3. Reassemble the mount. Temporarily place the bracket on the screw so that it points down. Just tighten a nut on top finger tight (you will have to remove it again) . Basically the unused hole should be about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the mount. That unused hole will be where you put the screw that attaches the mount to the bezel.

4. Place the AP in it and go out to the car. Put the USB adaptor in the AP so you can take it's position into account as you explore your options for placement.

5. Sitting as you normally would, position the holder so that the AP screen is where you would like it with the understanding that the unused hole has to touch the outer-edge of the bezel facing you.

6. Once you find your happy spot, take notice of were the unused hole is on the bracket and put a dot there for reference.

7. Take of the bezel and remove the bracket from the mount.

8. Drill hole in bezel where you marked it and use screw and nut to attach the bracket. Tighten it semi tight and re install the bezel. Place the holder on the bracket and tighten a nut on the holder's back finger tight. Place the AP in the bracket and take a look at how it faces.



9. If it the holder needs to be turned so it's vertical then do so. If the holder needs to be rotated so that you can see the face properly (rotated on it's vertical axis) then take the bracket off and with two pairs of pliers give it a slight twist and retry till you are happy with it. If the AP needs to be slid from right to left a bit, then thats why the slot comes in handy because it allows you to slide it from left to right easily.

10. I used some dynomat with the silver layer removed between the bracket and the back of the holder so that it was real solid since the holder only bolts to it in one place. I suppose you could use some RTV or caulk to do the same. I just happen to have dynomat so that is what I used.

11. Once you are happy with everything. Take the bezel carefully off so that nothing moves and tighten everything down.

12. Re-install.

13. Remove the OBD II port from under the dash. There is a plastic clip on each side that needs to be pressed in and then it pulls out from the top. Plug in the Apv2 OBD II to USB mini adaptor in and secure up in the dash. I used some double stick ***8216;em tape and attached it to the big box thing (some sort of CU) just under the knee bolster.


14. Pug the USB cable into the adaptor and run it up and out the top-right side of the column and use the swivel adaptor to pug it into the Apv2 so it doesn't interfere with or make noise against your keys.


15. Done.

Last edited by El Capitan; 03-30-2007 at 12:11 PM.
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Old 03-31-2007, 05:05 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Capitan View Post
Here is how I did it.





15. Done.

That is freaking Hawt I'm going to do mine this weekend thanks for this post and the how to...
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Old 07-06-2008, 06:03 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Capitan View Post
Here is how I did it.

13. Remove the OBD II port from under the dash. There is a plastic clip on each side that needs to be pressed in and then it pulls out from the top. Plug in the Apv2 OBD II to USB mini adaptor in and secure up in the dash. I used some double stick ‘em tape and attached it to the big box thing (some sort of CU) just under the knee bolster.
O Captain my captain, or anyone else for that matter... I am working on a clean install and mount of my Accessport similar to what you describe in your very excellent write up. I am having a hell of a time getting the OBD port out of its dash holder. Where exactly are the plastic clips that need to be pressed in to release it? Are they on the sides of the OBD connector itself and accessed from the backside of the dash or are they the detents visible in the sides of the gray plastic OBD port inset visible and accessible from the front side?
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Old 07-25-2008, 10:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nails1 View Post
O Captain my captain, or anyone else for that matter... I am working on a clean install and mount of my Accessport similar to what you describe in your very excellent write up. I am having a hell of a time getting the OBD port out of its dash holder. Where exactly are the plastic clips that need to be pressed in to release it? Are they on the sides of the OBD connector itself and accessed from the backside of the dash or are they the detents visible in the sides of the gray plastic OBD port inset visible and accessible from the front side?
I can't seem to feel around and find these clips either. Everything I try to press doesn't move.

Help us...
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Old 11-15-2008, 05:47 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Capitan View Post
Here is how I did it.

Parts
- Type S generic cell phone/ ipod mount purchased from Target. Price: $6.99


- RadioShack USB “A” swivel adaptor. Price: $10.00
- One of the dozen extra “shorter” USB cable I have from the other gadgets. Price: Free
- Stanley “2.5” bracket. See pic for a better description. Home Depot hardware dept. Price: $.80 maybe?


- ¾ inch or so 8/32 thread machine screws with recessed head. Home Depot hardware dept. I guess you could use what ever you wanted so long as it fit in the bracket holes.
- 8/32 square nuts (in the shape of a square). Home Depot hardware dept. Price: $1.00 maybe?



Tools:
- Philips screwdriver
- Slotted screwdriver
- Dremmel (or a file or what ever you need to remove some material)
- Electric drill and a bit to drill a hole for what ever size machine screw you have.
- Sharpe marker


1. Take apart the mount and remove the clips from the back. Notice the slot that is left. Using a dremmel or a file or what ever you can get, make the bottom of the slot even with the existing low spot TOWARDS THE TOP OF THE BRACKET.

2. Take one of your machine screws and thread a square nut all the way down to the head. Place it so that the nut is in the inside of the holder so that the threads face out of the back. Notice how the nut slides flat against the plastic inside the mount and prevents it from spinning. It fits perfect, didn’t plan it that way, but it just worked out.


3. Reassemble the mount. Temporarily place the bracket on the screw so that it points down. Just tighten a nut on top finger tight (you will have to remove it again) . Basically the unused hole should be about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the mount. That unused hole will be where you put the screw that attaches the mount to the bezel.

4. Place the AP in it and go out to the car. Put the USB adaptor in the AP so you can take it’s position into account as you explore your options for placement.

5. Sitting as you normally would, position the holder so that the AP screen is where you would like it with the understanding that the unused hole has to touch the outer-edge of the bezel facing you.

6. Once you find your happy spot, take notice of were the unused hole is on the bracket and put a dot there for reference.

7. Take of the bezel and remove the bracket from the mount.

8. Drill hole in bezel where you marked it and use screw and nut to attach the bracket. Tighten it semi tight and re install the bezel. Place the holder on the bracket and tighten a nut on the holder's back finger tight. Place the AP in the bracket and take a look at how it faces.



9. If it the holder needs to be turned so it’s vertical then do so. If the holder needs to be rotated so that you can see the face properly (rotated on it’s vertical axis) then take the bracket off and with two pairs of pliers give it a slight twist and retry till you are happy with it. If the AP needs to be slid from right to left a bit, then thats why the slot comes in handy because it allows you to slide it from left to right easily.

10. I used some dynomat with the silver layer removed between the bracket and the back of the holder so that it was real solid since the holder only bolts to it in one place. I suppose you could use some RTV or caulk to do the same. I just happen to have dynomat so that is what I used.

11. Once you are happy with everything. Take the bezel carefully off so that nothing moves and tighten everything down.

12. Re-install.

13. Remove the OBD II port from under the dash. There is a plastic clip on each side that needs to be pressed in and then it pulls out from the top. Plug in the Apv2 OBD II to USB mini adaptor in and secure up in the dash. I used some double stick ‘em tape and attached it to the big box thing (some sort of CU) just under the knee bolster.


14. Pug the USB cable into the adaptor and run it up and out the top-right side of the column and use the swivel adaptor to pug it into the Apv2 so it doesn’t interfere with or make noise against your keys.


15. Done.
Hey man this may seem somewhat random considering how long ago this thread was posted but another member just forwarded the link to me and it is exactly what I was looking for. Very clean set up and great write up. Kudos. Anyway I was wondering if you could explain to me how and where you ran your USB cable and where you reattached your ODB port and how. Thanks.

-Bailey
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Old 01-04-2007, 04:31 PM   #22
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Great write up! This needs to be stickified!
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:24 PM   #23
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Can I just add another OBDII port so I can keep the factory one at it's place?
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:34 PM   #24
El Capitan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsap View Post
Can I just add another OBDII port so I can keep the factory one at it's place?
I looked at making a pigtail/ Y-splitter for the OBD II. I found a parts manufacture that sold the male and female connectors and the harness materials, but it is so easy to snap that thing out and just snap it back in and I would need to snap it back in so rarely that I coudn't finacialy justify it.

I did want to, and am going to, install a toggle switch in the little pop out fuse holder thing in front of the fuse box so that instead of crawling under the dash to snap the green wires together when flashing, I can just flip the switch.

Last edited by El Capitan; 01-04-2007 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:45 PM   #25
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thats sweet iam gonna do that
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