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Old 04-04-2007, 11:46 AM   #1
reddevil
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1990 Legacy wagon
goes 12.387 @ 116.5

Default My build with pics...

Final build list....

Phase 1 2.5 open deck block with pinned cylinders
Phase 1 2.2 crank
Phase 2 connecting rods
STI pistons
ACL bearings
3 ply metal headgaskets (branded Subaru)
2.5 phase 1 heads mild port and polish - unknown what they are from, but they came with oil outs but no oil in (?)

Estimated compression is 7.2-1

Twin turbo intake manifold
1990 2.2 throttle body
820 cc modded STI 550 sidefeed injectors
3-1 Vortech rrfpr

2.5" intercooler piping
Modded large bore JECS MAF.
Big Ass Intercooler

Borla NA header
Custom uppipe and downpipe
2.5 exhaust for now

T3/T4 Garret/Precision turbo (GT30r equivilent)
Eaton M62 supercharger
Greddy "Trust" Manual boost controller

PerfectPower6 piggyback

Devils Own meth injection kit with progressive setup

3 bar MAP

Perfection brand flywheel (new)
Spec stage 4 clutch with 4 puck (if it shows up in time)

And probably some other crap....



Here I am tapping 2.5 heads for the oil return. The area I am drilling and tapping is the same exact place turbo heads are tapped.

The oil OUT appears to me to be factory.....


















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Last edited by reddevil; 05-10-2007 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 04-04-2007, 11:54 AM   #2
Drink
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Wow, very cool. Can't wait to see how this setup works out .
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:30 PM   #3
Mike1967
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Very impressive !
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:35 PM   #4
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I have never seen pinned cylinders before. I am generally uninformed on performance topics....but I am assuming that this provides additional stability much like a closed deck does at higher rpm.

Is this something that can be done yourself with some basic garage tools?

From the pics it appears to be a fairly straightforward process of simply identifying the correct rods, cutting them to size and then tapping them into the open deck. It does not appear that the block was cut.

Could you (or did you) install the pins yourself?
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Old 04-04-2007, 12:44 PM   #5
meld
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yeah, same question ^^
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:09 PM   #6
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Werent you worried about deflection or warpage of the mating surfaces clamping them like that?!
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:28 PM   #7
8Complex

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Are those pins brass?
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Old 04-04-2007, 01:48 PM   #8
Mike1967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8Complex View Post
Are those pins brass?
I'm guessing that they are either brass or copper based on the color.

I'm betting they are brass due to the shininess and glean in the photo's.
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Old 04-04-2007, 02:25 PM   #9
reddevil
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Yes they are brass.

I used a 3/8" reamer (i think, don't remember exaxtly) in a hand drill. Then I sized each piece of brass to each hole using a small lathe.

Yes there may be some deflection, but the fit wasnt so incredibly tight I had to kill the pins to fit. In fact, I am hoping for some expansion factor to hold them in!

Also, this is an experimental build that may not even work. So I didnt bother having the cylinders honed. If it runs and runs well, then down the road when I break it, I will spend the time doing the cylinders.
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Old 04-04-2007, 02:42 PM   #10
Mike1967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reddevil View Post
Yes they are brass.

I used a 3/8" reamer (i think, don't remember exaxtly) in a hand drill. Then I sized each piece of brass to each hole using a small lathe.

Yes there may be some deflection, but the fit wasnt so incredibly tight I had to kill the pins to fit. In fact, I am hoping for some expansion factor to hold them in!

Also, this is an experimental build that may not even work. So I didnt bother having the cylinders honed. If it runs and runs well, then down the road when I break it, I will spend the time doing the cylinders.
Again...I am impressed.

Did you come up with this yourself? Or is this a fairly standard performance upgrade in the custom build community?

This appears to be an excellent idea? I am wondering why Subaru does not employ this design on the rods.
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Old 04-04-2007, 05:43 PM   #11
thejean
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You're a nut. This is craziness! But, very cool!
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Old 04-04-2007, 07:29 PM   #12
HemiKLR
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hahah whats with the scooter?
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Old 04-05-2007, 01:41 AM   #13
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All I can think to say is yes Doug, yes.
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:42 AM   #14
reddevil
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It runs.....

Need to reseal both valve covers very very badly, and some little stuff, but it appears that I might actually have a winner. maybe a 87***37; chance.

full story here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...6#post17610516
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Old 04-05-2007, 08:20 AM   #15
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Those heads are not Phase I 2.5L but Phase 0 EJ20D with rockers but reasonably hot cams.

The 'factory' oil out is normally plugged on these heads.
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Old 04-05-2007, 08:24 AM   #16
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By the way, I ran your setup through my Excel file and even with the thinnest 2.5L gasket, the CR is 6.8 on this engine.

Did you use new valve cover gaskets?
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Old 04-05-2007, 09:07 AM   #17
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Phase 0? You mean the hydraulicly adjusted lash type heads?
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Old 04-05-2007, 02:35 PM   #18
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nice work!!
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Old 04-05-2007, 03:48 PM   #19
reddevil
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I was able to get ONE correct valve cover gasket for the passenger side head. The asshat at Subaru kept insisting that the drivers side gasket was some COMPLETLEY different. So I just bought two and made one fit..... Had to pull the engine up about 4 inches to get to the one single rear lower valve cover bolt on the drivers side. Bleah.

But....

Its all sealed up and I started it again.....for a bout 30 seconds.

I have to actually do some work now. I will drive it later today.
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Old 04-05-2007, 03:48 PM   #20
reddevil
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Well, if its 6.8-1, I better start pumping 30 psi!
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Old 04-05-2007, 04:44 PM   #21
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yever thought bout' doin' some reddevil head porting?
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Old 04-06-2007, 12:52 AM   #22
reddevil
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Yeah, it will be at Subiefest. It may not be racing though.....

Got 42 miles on the block, running 16 psi.

Ok, latest lowdown.....

Valve cover gaskets WORKED!!! No more oil leak out of the valve covers....

But.....still have 2-3 leaks. Driver side head leaks SOMEWHERE out of the front. I "think" its a bolt with bad washer, so I replaced it with teflon tape and newer brass bango bolt washer...I will see if this works tommorrow. The other 1 or 2 leaks are coming out the rear of the passenger side head. Is it the turbo drain line? Is it the rear main? Is it something else? God only knows at this point. But its a pretty bad leak. Especially since it seems to be getting blown all over the damn exhaust and smoking to high heaven. In fact it smokes so bad I can't tell if I am getting blowby while on boost. Sometimes it smokes, sometimes it doesnt. crap....

Smoking heavily all the time, but this is not out the exhaust. Good and bad. Good is that I seem to have a "sealed" motor to some point. Bad is that it embarrassing to drive. If I can find the damn leak and actually fix it, I think I may have a decent motor. If the leak is out of the rear main, or either of the two rear axis points to the rods, then I am screwed. Both those points of course are newly sealed, but that doesn mean bad luck can't rear its head.

Normal driving around town I have pretty damn good idle and AFRs, amazing for the fact I am running 820 cc injectors in place of 270s, even if I am running a much maligned piggyback!

Compression of this motor has been calculated by myself and various others from a low of 6.8 to a high of 7.2.... While it is doggy, the 2.5 makes up for it a little bit for driving around town and therefore it feels kind of like a regular 2.2. Not great, but not slow. Pretty good torque. As for actual HP, well, it will be decent I think, but I need to tune it first.

If Marnix is right, and I have the early Phase 0 EJ20D with rockers but reasonably hot cams, soooooo, I should do alright when I tune it tommorrow at PRE on their dyno. Bobby was good enough to "bump" someone for me to get in.


So..... It lives for now.... And I will tune it for max power without the meth injection (no time to get it hooked up 100***37; at this point), but with 100 octane and low compression, I should still be good for 330-350 whp.... We shall see!
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Old 04-06-2007, 04:15 PM   #23
reddevil
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Dynoed 22-23 psi at 60 mile breakin....

311 hp and 355 torque on a Dyno Dynamic dyno.

Clutch problems......but still holds most of the time.

The bigger displacement takes higher in the rpm band to spool, but then spools ALOT faster.

I need to find my camera..
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Old 04-06-2007, 04:45 PM   #24
8Complex

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Heh, I think it's the compression raising the spool RPM.

Is that PP6 being pretty reliable?
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:04 PM   #25
reddevil
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Yeah the pp6 is working out quite well especially considering I am running 820 cc injectors on a 270 cc ECU! And idling well and getting decent off boost milage.
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