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02-11-2011, 12:56 PM | #351 |
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02-11-2011, 02:42 PM | #352 |
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Location: Gilbert
Vehicle:2001 Honda S2000 Berlina Blaque |
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02-11-2011, 04:02 PM | #353 | |
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Quote:
What is that saying? "The shoe-maker's kids have no shoes." Seems to apply. |
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02-12-2011, 07:24 PM | #354 |
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Vehicle:2001 Honda S2000 Berlina Blaque |
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02-15-2011, 02:29 AM | #355 |
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Well, I got to the fun stuff tonight: installing parts.
I started with the front of the car because I haven't yet figured out exactly what I want to do with the fuel tank quite yet and I need to get that taken car of before the rear suspension can go in. Either way, I started by installing the sedan width fender liner on the passenger side. This can mean only one thing: I'm going to go ahead with the sedan front end. I ordered a ton of new fasteners from Subaru. They are cheap and I found most of the old ones were so difficult to get out (mud, grit) that I had to break them to get them out. There are a surprisingly large amount of these things between the front bumper/grille, fender liners, side skirts, and STi Aero panels. A couple a months ago, I sprayed the fender wells with rubberized coating so now it's all nice and clean up in there. Next, I installed the control arm, coilover, axle, ABS sensor, and hub. All parts were either completely rebuild or brand new including all of the bolts so install was easy. I was careful to use anti-seize where needed and factory torque specs on all critical bolts. Again, my goal is to not cut any corners, but I'm sure I'll miss/overlook many things. One thing to note is that you should not tighten any of the control arm pivot points down until you have the car on its wheels. This ensure the proper preloading of the bushings. If you tightened the bushings at full droop, they would have far too much preload and would likely fail prematurely. I intend to set the car on some ramps initially and tighten all of these points down front and rear. I apologize once again for the terrible photography. For whatever the reason, my camera just cannot catch this green. It either looks faded or yellowed. Looks amazing in person; there are better pictures earlier in the thread. The red/orange stuff that you see in various areas is excess anti-seize. I've used a lot of it. A good shot of the roll-center kit's lower ball joint. Made sure not to forget the cotter pin! The axle nut was temporarily installed. When I can apply the brakes, I'll put the full torque on it and stake it down. These are just me screwing around with aperture settings that KP and Dan were teaching me about at the last meet. Still didn't capture the green. |
02-15-2011, 02:36 AM | #356 |
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At this point, I was so jazzed that I had to assemble one of the Brembo calipers so I could throw it on the car. That took a long time, but it turned out great. I did not hook up the brake line because I need some copper washers for the banjo bolt. But that can wait until later. No rush on this project right?
The rotors were used, but I had them resurfaced, and then I painted the hats with a 1200° paint. I got to try out my new lug nuts as well which are surprisingly close in color to my wheels. It looks like I'll have the entire weekend to work on the car as well, so I should have some pretty solid updates coming in the next week. I hope to get some good shots of one of the calipers assembles, but off the car. Daylight will probably help my crappy photo skills. |
02-15-2011, 02:43 AM | #357 | |
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Quote:
Your aperture didn't change between those pictures according to your exif data. It's "white balance" you want to capture the correct color of that green. I have some pictures of it somewhere I'll post up. This is a positive update though! You sure do like to do things ass backwards though.. You take the girlfriend camping instead of going to Subiefest, but you work on the car on Valentines day.... |
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02-15-2011, 02:44 AM | #358 |
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Scratch that. I no longer have those pictures.
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02-15-2011, 02:45 AM | #359 | |
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Quote:
Perhaps it was my shutter then? Who knows. I push buttons until the thing clicks. |
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02-15-2011, 12:58 PM | #360 |
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Vehicle:2006 STi 413whp 2014 Lifted Tacoma |
lookin good man!
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02-16-2011, 12:25 AM | #361 |
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Join Date: May 2009
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RMIC
Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
DONE YET? im gonna need some help with the motor swap in to the gf! so hurry up!
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02-21-2011, 01:51 AM | #362 |
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So, due to some wedding planning appointments wrapping up earlier than expected and other plans getting canceled because of the weather, I had some time to work more on the wagon. I made some solid progress.
First I finished assembling the Brembos. I had already put the seals in them so it was just a matter of painting the bolts black and then putting the halves together with the pads and cleaned components. There were a couple of points where the powder coat was too thick or over sprayed, but that was easily remedied with a razor blade or the dremel tool. Everything went together very smoothly. Lou at Section 8 powder coating wanted some pictures for his website so I took some better shots. The green is still hard to capture, but I'm understanding white balance a bit better. Photogs, feel free to give advice. These have no processing. |
02-21-2011, 02:17 AM | #363 |
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This is what i like to see! Get'er done!
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02-21-2011, 02:18 AM | #364 |
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Location: New Jersey
Vehicle:07 wrx limited 08 STI |
those look super clean and amazing better than new!
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02-21-2011, 02:20 AM | #365 |
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02-21-2011, 02:21 AM | #366 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
The next thing on the list was to assemble the newly refinished R180. When I first got the diff, it was rusty as hell, but in good condition
mechanically. I disassembled it, painted the case, plated the bolts, painted the bearing cups, installed new seals, and polished the rear cover. I only polished the cover because it was easier than doing real work on the car. I then cleared the cover so it stays shiny hopefully. Putting the magnet back on the drain plug. It was removed during plating. Magnetic plug goes in the bottom hole. Bearing clups and cover. New seals. This was the tool I used for the lower trailing arm bushings. It worked great for the seals too. The press made short work of them. The carrier and ring gear can be tricky to get back in the case. This is how you do it. First place the smaller end in like shown. Orient the bolts as I have them. Then shake it around until you can move the ring gear in. You may need to turn the pinion to get the teeth to mesh and allow it to fit in. It's more difficult than it looks and you'll probably pinch your fingers more than a few times. Install the bearing cups and don't forget the shims and oring. 7.7 ft-lbs Install the cover, breather, studs, and drain plugs. Bolts are 21.8 ft-lbs. |
02-21-2011, 02:21 AM | #367 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Finished product:
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02-21-2011, 02:56 AM | #368 |
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Location: Aurora, CO
Vehicle:2005 Saabaru Who knows |
that car better never see dirt or rain! lol!
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02-21-2011, 02:59 AM | #369 |
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right?! Jesus... Then again, that's how the bottom side should've looked from the factory!
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02-21-2011, 09:53 AM | #370 |
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Location: New Jersey
Vehicle:07 wrx limited 08 STI |
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02-21-2011, 11:02 AM | #371 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
I ran out of time last night to write up the rest of the work done. I also assembled the two rear hubs. I ended up using 4 hubs to make one working set of hubs as one set had bent knuckles, but the other set had no backing plates. Either way, I used two new bearings, and new seals. Additionally, the knuckles were wire brushed to remove all traces of rust and painted with a high temp paint and protective enamel clear coat. I also cleaned up the hubs.
The bearings were branded as Timken on the box, but the actual bearing itself was marked "NTN" which is the supplier of the OEM bearings to Subaru. It's not uncommon for bearing manufacturers the "trade" bearings as they all can't make all the types. These units were fairly cheap at $52 each. I got the seals from Subaru and they ran about $6 each. Here is what the bearing looks like new. You'll find a white piece of plastic in the middle of the cartridge. Don't remove this as it holds the two inner races together while you are working with them. The first step is to press the bearing into the knuckle. The cartridge will actually insert into the knuckle further than the end before it reaches it's hard stop so you need to use a larger socket, or in my case a cylinder machined to the right diameter to push it in all the way. I started it on the plate and then added the spacer later. After the bearing has reached the hard stop, install the c-clip. This keeps the outer race from working it's way out of the knuckle. C-clip installed fully into its groove. Next install the appropriate seal. This seal seals between the hub and the knuckle and keeps brake dust and water out of the bearing. Fully seated: |
02-21-2011, 11:12 AM | #372 |
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Show off.
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02-21-2011, 11:14 AM | #373 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Now I installed the backing plates. Be careful to get the right one on the right side. These must be installed BEFORE you press the hub into the knuckle for obvious reasons.
I had taken the studs out and the tone rings off to clean up the hubs so I needed to reinstall them. The next step is to press the hub into the knuckle. On this step it is important to support the inner bearing race on the knuckle side. For this you need another large socket or similarly made tool. Whatever you use, it needs to be hollow to allow the plastic insert to come out as the hub takes it's place. With that setup, it's just a matter of pressing them together. Starting: 1/3 done: 2/3 done: Fully seated: Here you can see the plastic piece that was displaced: |
02-21-2011, 11:15 AM | #374 |
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Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
The last step is to install the inner seal. This seals between the axle and the knuckle, once again, keeping stuff out of the bearing since it isn't a sealed unit.
The seal installed. It's hard to see in this picture. The finished product: |
02-21-2011, 11:24 AM | #375 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 120273
Join Date: Jul 2006
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Vehicle:06 WRBWRXWGN Now with 100% more Spec-C |
Lastly, I began the fun part: putting it all together. This part was a breeze because of all the parts being is prefect shape after all of the work I put into them. Here I felt like my hard work paid off finally.
I should note here that none of the bolts on the lateral links were tightened down, just snugged enough that they were not wiggling all around. I will tighten them fully once the car is on it's wheels. This will ensure proper bushing preload. I also find it MUCH easier to assemble the whole rear suspension off of the car. Once assembled, it's easy enough to slide it under the car, jack it up, and bolt it into place with the 6 bolts that hold it to the car. Lateral links and R180 installed: Front cross member installed: Axles (which were fully rebuilt and refinished) installed: |
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