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Old 03-21-2013, 11:00 AM   #76
xluben
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If I had paid $350 for the box and bought some used switches I would be much happier at this point. It feels like I totally wasted my money on the switches. The controller itself is probably fine. I would have like longer wire leads, but I guess I can't complain too much about that.

It sounds like many other people have gotten stuck re-doing his wiring on the switches as well. For the premium price he's charging for this, he really needs to step back and redesign (ie. add another foot of wire). Really it would take no more work for him and cost him a few pennies more. It's just poor design, and it's causing extra work for his customers. I also think those crappy terminal blocks he's using have to go.
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Old 03-21-2013, 11:57 AM   #77
xluben
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I just got word back. He said that returns have to be within 15 days (I am well past that), that many other people have not had issues with the length of the switch wires (despite the last several posts in this thread), and that the switches cost that much regardless if he installs them or not (definitely should have just bought those from the dealer and installed them myself).

So, it looks like I'm going to be cutting off his wires and redoing the wiring myself.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:08 PM   #78
666stars
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I just got word back. He said that returns have to be within 15 days (I am well past that), that many other people have not had issues with the length of the switch wires (despite the last several posts in this thread), and that the switches cost that much regardless if he installs them or not (definitely should have just bought those from the dealer and installed them myself).

So, it looks like I'm going to be cutting off his wires and redoing the wiring myself.
That's a bummer, glad I went with a different controller now.
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Old 03-21-2013, 12:13 PM   #79
Honest Bob
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If your bitching about extending some wires you might be better off having someone install it for you, its not the end of the world. Seriously.
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Old 03-21-2013, 01:58 PM   #80
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honest Bob View Post
If your bitching about extending some wires you might be better off having someone install it for you, its not the end of the world. Seriously.
He charges 2x the price for the switches vs. what you would pay from the dealer. This is because they are pre wired for the controller. When I have to cut the wires off and redo it myself, then I feel that I'm justified to complain. I would gladly have purchased this completely unwired if the cost was lower.

He did get back to me again and said I could return the switches as long as they're in re-sellable condition. So now I have to decide if I want to ship these back to Canada (at my expense) and wait for new switches from the dealer, or just eat the money I wasted on the switches and rewire the stuff I have already.
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Old 03-24-2013, 12:37 AM   #81
xluben
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As an update, I did install mine. Most of the stuff that I feel should have been pre-wired to work, had to be re-wired. Ended up taking a couple hours extra (taking my time and trying to do it all properly). Here are some photos:

This is how it looks from DCCD Pro:



The suggested mounting location for the box is on the beam in the knee area under the driver's side dash (under the steering wheel). With the box in this location the DCCD switches are probably ~6" short from reaching the cutouts in the 08+ center console. I'm guessing they probably do reach on the older models. The bare wires are also a bit too short to reach the ECU and the DCCD solenoid on the tranny.

Here are some of the photos I took while I was modifying things:

The photo below shows how I cut the casing back about 6" on the bare wires. This is because the power/ground go the opposite direction from the e-brake, TPS, and DCCD wires, and splitting them off sooner would give me a little more to work with. I added a piece of heat shrink to seal the casing just like it comes from DCCD Pro. It ended up not really helping enough in all cases, but more on that further down.

Next I added in about a foot of cable inline with the DCCD switches. I unscrewed the terminal blocks and soldered on the extensions there. The wire I added has the blue casing. I reused the terminal blocks even though I'm not a big fan. But if that's how it comes from DCCD Pro then it will hopefully be good enough. I'd love to see socketed connectors coming out of the box itself. Note that I did put a larger heat shrink over these soldered connections. You can see it in subsequent photos.



This photo shows the other ends of the extensions. They are bare wires that have been tinned and heat shrunk around the casing. These are inserted into the terminal blocks.



Here's the wiring prior to attaching the switches:



Here is the full assembly:



I did have to solder one of the existing wires back onto the connector inside the DCCD switch. The solder joint from DCCD Pro broke off during handling. Soldering these is quite difficult, but apparently it is very hard to acquire the other side of the connector, so there isn't much of any other option.

I did not take any other install photos, but I did find that the wire to the ECU was not long enough and had to extend that one by about a foot as well. The wire to the e-brake was fine. The wire to the accel sensor was fine. The wires to the DCCD solenoid on the tranny will not reach all the way to the solenoid, but if you clip the wires for the solenoid a bit further away, then you do have room to connect to the wires from the DCCD Pro.

Overall it was quite an extensive install. I find electrical work takes a long time, and this was no exception. The most frustrating part was that a huge portion of my work could have been avoided if the DCCD Pro simply came with 1 ft longer wires. This would take zero extra time/effort for them to do and would have a very minimal cost impact.

Here are some shots in the cabin:







So far, so good. I haven't pushed it hard, but I have done some parking lot testing of the manual open/lock vs. auto vs. e-brake pulled and all of those functions do seem to be working great. I will have to push the car a bit more to get into playing with the auto setting. I just have it in the middle for now.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:38 AM   #82
christhjesus
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I was thinking about using the cat5/6 cable, I even cut the ends off one. Then I went to radio shack and found a spool of the same color wires, solid strand though. I figured they would do just fine to extend the switch wires. For the other wires that required extension I used some stranded wire I had around, he11 even some speaker wire would work fine as long as it is a large enough gauge.
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Old 03-24-2013, 01:41 AM   #83
christhjesus
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BTW, anyone else notice noise being induced into the stereo. I have an amp for my fronts and the RCA's run across the G-sensor wiring and now I get a $hit ton of noise into my tweets.

I guess I could just relocate the RCA's to the other side but its a PITA.
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Old 03-24-2013, 08:02 AM   #84
xluben
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Yeah I used Cat5 cable. I like it because it's fairly thin, it's flexible, and it has a casing already on it. I don't like using solid wore because it's not flexible. Speaker wore or individual stranded wires works well but then you need to find a suitable casing to hold it together and protect it.

O would definitely run your audio signal cables in another area of you're getting noise.
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:00 AM   #85
Spiider
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If you install the main control box at the bottom of the center stack the extra work extending wires is unnecessary...all the wires reach their intended targets perfectly.
(The lengths have been adjusted over the past 5 years to be perfect for this location.)

You are right about the connectors for the switches except that they are not "very hard to acquire"....they are "impossible to acquire" (in quantity). You can get one or two sets from good guys like IAP. I even tried guys in Japan / buying them in sets of 1000, and was unsuccessful. The terminal blocks are very solid and you don't have to disconnect the wires more than once or twice in the life of the install.
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Old 03-24-2013, 03:35 PM   #86
xluben
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiider View Post
If you install the main control box at the bottom of the center stack the extra work extending wires is unnecessary...all the wires reach their intended targets perfectly.
(The lengths have been adjusted over the past 5 years to be perfect for this location.)

You are right about the connectors for the switches except that they are not "very hard to acquire"....they are "impossible to acquire" (in quantity). You can get one or two sets from good guys like IAP. I even tried guys in Japan / buying them in sets of 1000, and was unsuccessful. The terminal blocks are very solid and you don't have to disconnect the wires more than once or twice in the life of the install.
The installation instructions suggest the under the driver's side dash:

Quote:
The suggested location for installation of the control module is behind the dashboard in
the knee crash pad area, there is a large open area behind the metal bars there.
Switched power and ground are also available nearby at the fuse panel to tap into.
There is not room in the center stack area on my car anyways.
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Old 03-09-2014, 07:58 PM   #87
REX_WGN
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I have the DCCDPro Universal Controller installed in my 2006 WRX after doing a 6-speed conversion with an 07 STi transmission. I actually waited a long time for the unit to arrive and then I had my tuner shop install it for me and then finally they fully tuned my car. I didn't really care much for the controller but now that I have been reading the benefits of the auto mode, I started to mess with it.

I realized that my controller is always in manual mode. Turning the knob will only adjust the illumination which means it is only controlling the amount of lock of the center diff. It doesn't matter if I press the switch or not. Does anyone with experience with the universal controller know what I can troubleshoot to get the auto mode to work?
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Old 03-09-2014, 09:28 PM   #88
sackytar
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I would say recheck the install. Been a while but wasn't there a wire coming from the handbrake to controller that allowed it to go into manual mode when handbrake was disengaged????
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:09 PM   #89
ryolse
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Here's my light contribution in my '97 GF
https://youtu.be/_jujERMbhCw
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Old 07-11-2014, 07:00 AM   #90
Vlad
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Some questions, just finished last night installing:
The manual option with mine does not move the squares on the cluster until I get rolling. Then it seems to work. Is this normal?
So if I put it on manual and play with the thumbwheel while parked, the display does not change, but when I drive, it does.
Also, my auto/manu switch light does not work.
I have to take it apart, I guess.
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Old 07-11-2014, 08:03 AM   #91
Vlad
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Figured out:
My driveway is steep so the parking brake was on.

I had to extend the wiring for the two switches , for the ECU and for the gearbox. I had to buy the diode, USDM switches and a harness, to get pins. The cost goes up...
I can see that the DCCD works and am beginning to understand the logic of the function.
Now more than before, I can feel the rear small visco making the rear end feel loose.
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Old 07-11-2014, 12:31 PM   #92
sackytar
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Yep ran into that same issue too at a RallyX event.

Brake was on and I thought the DCCD pro wasn't functioning properly. Lol.
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Old 09-26-2014, 10:32 PM   #93
Snowphun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I had to buy the diode,
Is this diode required to retain the parking brake light? Can anyone provide the specific part details?

Thanks.
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Old 09-28-2014, 06:33 AM   #94
Vlad
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I believe the diode part number is in the installation manual and available without problems at RadioShack.
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Old 09-28-2014, 07:40 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
I believe the diode part number is in the installation manual and available without problems at RadioShack.
Thanks, I was confused by the wording in the manual. So I need a 1N4148 diode, now to see if Radio Shack is still in business around here.
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Old 09-28-2014, 02:14 PM   #96
WhatTurboLag?
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I still have no idea what pin is the correct pin for the TPS wire. 06 wrx. It's been holding me back for a while.
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Old 02-25-2015, 10:12 AM   #97
jogfrogjog
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This is my contribution. I found this thread helpful.
I have an STi gauge cluster with the green connector with open holes where the female pin connectors go. I called DCCDPro's support line and was asking questions. Essentially, one option was to feed the wires through the connector and then solder it on to the gauge cluster, which I really didn't want to do. I ended up going to Radio Shack and picked up 25-Position Female D-Sub Connector
Crimp-type connectors.







It has female crimp connectors in there which I crimped on to my gauge indicator wires on the DCCDPro and then soldered them after crimping to make sure they don't fall out easily.




They go right into the connector like the rest of the pins and I was able to plug it right in. I didn't want to solder them directly to the gauge cluster incase I swap something out in the future.

Right now, the only light that doesn't work in the auto light, so I have mess around with that and I still have to connect to my DCCD wires on the tranny. So hopefully, someone else with the STi cluster will find this post useful.
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Old 03-12-2015, 11:07 PM   #98
RallyKid
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jogfrogjog, how did you know what pin goes where on the STi cluster?
Did DCCDPro tell you the pin outs?

Could you elaborate on which wire goes to which pin?

Thanks
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Old 03-13-2015, 12:19 PM   #99
jogfrogjog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RallyKid View Post
jogfrogjog, how did you know what pin goes where on the STi cluster?
Did DCCDPro tell you the pin outs?

Could you elaborate on which wire goes to which pin?

Thanks
Has all the info you need for the install.
http://dccdpro.com/?page_id=525

Specifically for the cluster pinout, check your model year for the cluster:

http://dccdpro.com/main/wp-content/d...%20pinouts.pdf


side note: I got the auto light to work, needed to push my wire into the connector more.
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Old 03-15-2015, 07:41 PM   #100
circleT
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For those interested, I have some terminals for the green cluster connectors. I helped install a DCCDpro unit and have some left over. PM me for details.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using NASIOC mobile app
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