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08-30-2012, 01:24 PM | #101 |
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Since most of those shots are stopped down, you could achieve basically the same thing with your current lens. No need to lust after f/2.0 if shots you like were taken at f/4.5 or f/7.1.
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08-30-2012, 01:39 PM | #102 |
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beautiful shots in this thread! I'm lucky to get a non blurry picture with my point and shoot on auto focus.
Last edited by VTSubieRS; 08-30-2012 at 01:45 PM. |
08-30-2012, 01:43 PM | #103 | |
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Is it the crop body that's effecting my DOF then? That picture seems to have an extremely shallow DOF for f/4.5, or is it just my photography skills? Or lack there of. |
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08-30-2012, 02:10 PM | #104 | |
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Finding a spot with TONS of space in the background is going to help a lot as well. |
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08-30-2012, 02:41 PM | #105 |
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Now how come my 50mm f/1.8 won't give me the same effect?
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08-30-2012, 02:45 PM | #106 |
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It will. You just gotta work on the subject/background seperation.
Distance between camera and subject, and distance between subject and background. The greater the second is than the first, the more DOF seperation you'll have. |
08-30-2012, 02:49 PM | #107 |
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If you are looking for more background blur, the background will have to be sufficiently far from your subject to get the effect (more effect with larger aperture of course).
Are you shooting with it set to f1.8 when you are trying to achieve the effect ? (like put it in aperture priority mode and set it specifically to 1.8) I have the f1.8 50mm on my (APS-C) Rebel T1i and the short DOF seems to work pretty well, depending how close I am to the subject and how far the background is from the subject. As a side note, I do usually have to pick what part of the car (if I'm shooting cars) I want to be in focus though, at f1.8 the whole car never seems to be in focus, so I'll pick the front, or the headlights, or wheels or whatever I want to get the most attention You can see in one of the blue WRX pics above, the rear wheels start to blur a touch; the DOF in that case doesn't completely cover the length of the car. (Edit: vision.dynamix stated my point concisely by the time I typed up my response) Last edited by lastsnare; 08-30-2012 at 03:05 PM. |
08-30-2012, 02:50 PM | #108 |
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This is the best example that I have but the background isn't much to look at obviously. The trees were about a 100 yards away
This was shot with my 55-250 though. |
08-30-2012, 03:04 PM | #109 |
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Camera: Canon 60D
Lens: Canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS ISO: ISO200 Shutter Speed: forgot Focal Length: forgot Aperture: forgot Processing: Photoshop CS5 Camera: Canon 60D Lens: Canon 50mm f/1.8 ISO: ISO200 Shutter Speed: forgot Focal Length: forgot Aperture: forgot Processing: Photoshop CS5 |
08-30-2012, 03:11 PM | #110 | |
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I think, if you were trying to get more background blur, you could position yourself closer to the car (this may affect barrel distortion and pincushion effects). I could be wrong, but, in my experience, it seems as though the depth-of-field -at a given aperture- gets longer when you are farther away from your subject, I'm not sure if this is a true effect or if it's because many lenses have a smaller maximum aperture as they zoom in (unless you have something like the straight-through 70-200 f/4, I have one but almost never use it in favor of a 100-400mm, so haven't tested this theory). If more blur is your goal, try standing/sitting closer to the car with the background at the same distance and see if it makes a difference perhaps. Nice shots as well liltoua, I especially like the side view of the nose on the red car (S2000?) |
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08-30-2012, 03:13 PM | #111 | |
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http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html |
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08-30-2012, 03:16 PM | #112 | |
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08-30-2012, 03:19 PM | #113 |
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For instance, I plugged in:
5D, 50mm, f/1.2. At 3', the total DOF is 0.07' At 10', the total DOF is 0.86' At 25', the total DOF is 5.47' At 50', the total DOF is 22.7' |
08-30-2012, 03:27 PM | #114 | |
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But, the Sigma was significantly cheaper than the Canon and at web size, you couldn't really tell the difference between a shot between the Sigma and Canon. |
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08-30-2012, 04:32 PM | #115 |
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I should just save and go straight for the Canon then and not waste my money upgrading down the road.
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08-30-2012, 04:38 PM | #116 | |
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Ive owned it while owning the 2.8IS and 2.8ISII and will still find myself using the f/4 |
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08-30-2012, 04:44 PM | #117 |
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Well that's good to know but I've heard a lot of people say to just save up for the IS version which is twice the price! My budget my not allow that at this time so I don't know which way to go.
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08-30-2012, 04:48 PM | #118 |
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Its not very hard to buy a used Canon lens, use it, then sell it for the same price as you bought it for. I'd say buy the f/4L, try it. If you feel you need IS, or f/2.8, then consider upgrading.
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08-30-2012, 04:49 PM | #119 |
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I typically rent lenses first before buying as well. We have a company locally that is super cheap and it saves me from having to go through the hassle of buying and selling.
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08-30-2012, 04:52 PM | #120 |
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Discovering lens rentals is a dangerous thing. I spent approx $5k in rentals last year.
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08-30-2012, 04:54 PM | #121 |
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liltoua- nice shot on that black gc subaru.
any more pictures from that shoot! I love myself a nice clean gc8 subaru! |
08-30-2012, 05:22 PM | #122 |
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^^^^ Agreed! This looks like a bad ass machine!
There are so many opinions out there so I'm going to probably just rent one and see if I like it. I haven't heard too many bad things about either the IS or non IS. I just don't know if it's worth twice the money!! Maybe it will make me a better shooter if I don't have IS to rely on. I shoot my kids with my 50mm non IS and if I can keep up with them I think I might be OK! |
08-30-2012, 05:24 PM | #123 | |
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This is part of my problem as well. When I'm in almost full zoom I'm at f/5.6! No good! |
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08-30-2012, 05:55 PM | #124 | |||
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Quote:
Depending on focal length (which control camera to subject distance) and subject to background distance (controlled by how you set up the shot), the background blur can greatly change, even with the same DOF. Here is an example in which the focal length and camera to subject distance are changed (in order to keep the subject the same size in the frame, and to keep the DOF exactly the same). You can clearly see that the compressed perspective of the longer lens makes for more background blur. Here is the article that goes with the photo (NOT written by me): http://www.bobatkins.com/photography...ound_blur.html And here's a good synopsis: Quote:
Here's another good example (from another one of his articles) on how the same f-stop will give you more background blur with a longer lens (if you back up so that the subject framing is the same): For car shoots you're going to want to have a large subject to background distance and a large physical aperture. Usually this means you're going to want a fast telephoto over something like a Nifty Fifty. Even a 50mm f/1.2 probably isn't going to have the look you want. It will have a razor thin DOF, but not that much background blur. This is really the opposite of what you want. You'd rather have the whole car in focus, but the background completely blurred. This is exactly the job for a telephoto. For some good advice on getting a lens with a lot of blur, here is another article: http://www.bobatkins.com/photography...ound_blur.html The first section just proves the point that a fast prime will have way more blur than an f/2.8 zoom, but we all knew that already. The bottom section goes back to the point about choosing the lens with the largest physical aperture (focal length / f-stop), in order to have the most background blur. To try and put it in perspective, I came up with a table of some common lenses to consider. I calculated the physical size of the aperture as well as the DOF at a given distance. I came up with the distance based on how far you would have to stand in order to get a 20 foot wide field of view. I figured this would be useful for a car photo. I used the "Dimensional Field of View Calculator" section of this site to calculate the distance to subject: http://www.tawbaware.com/maxlyons/calc.htm And then I went back to this calculator to get the DOF: http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html What I didn't calculate is the background blur. Why? Because that depends on how far away the background is! The DOF in the table being small has nothing to do with the background blur, it is the physical size of the aperture that matters. Adding the DOF into the table just proves the point that shorter, fast lenses have a shallow DOF and small physical aperture (usually not what you would want for blurred backgrounds in car photos), while a longer lens has much more useful DOF and a larger physical aperture, therefore more background blur with the correct setup. Here's the table I came up with: Looking at a specific example for INKMAN... The top and bottom are ones you currently have. The others are "affordable" options you may be considering. Between the ones you have, you can see that the 250mm end of the zoom is much better than the nifty fifty. The only problem is that you need over 200ft of working distance (and you'd want that much behind the car too)! The 70-200 f/4 really isn't going to gain you any background blur at all (very little), but it will make it so you can stand 50ft closer. It may be the best lens for you all around (including motorsports, walkaround, people, etc), but in terms of background blur for set up car shots, I think the 85mm f/1.8 may be your best option. Anything longer on a crop body starts to require huge amounts of space to use properly. |
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08-30-2012, 05:56 PM | #125 |
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