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Old 08-10-2014, 09:40 AM   #1
Vlad
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Default Tool for trailing arm rear bushing?

Any news of anybody renting the tool for replacement of the trailing arm rear bushings?
I am converting to R180 with hubs and need to replace the bushings.

Related:
Cusco makes some pillow ball bushings, but in their catalog, it's never clear that these are meant for GD, they show them as bushings for GC. Did anybody use them in their GD body?
If so, these may not require the tool.
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Old 08-10-2014, 10:24 AM   #2
69subaru360
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I burn them out with a torch or drill out the rubber then pry the shell out and replace with poly that just slides in.
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:40 PM   #3
JarHarms
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That's not going to to work for those who do not want poly bushings.

There was a forum member working on one but sounded like it stalled out due to cost/complexity of machining. BIGSKYWRX's tool was bought up while ago and has not been heard of again. There is always the Subaru special tool but it's spendy and not as user friendly. Never saw those Cusco ones but I would suppose they will work on GD as well. I'm more of a groupN fan for that bushing.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-10-2014 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 08-10-2014, 02:56 PM   #4
Vlad
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Well, I used BigSky's tool to do Group N on my WRX hubs, now I am looking at Sti hubs in my garage and the group N bushings are coming next week.

I have a C clamp, let's see what I can do with hubs off, rotors off and shields pushed out of the way. Maybe with hose clamps and such.
Oh and I have to buy that special grease from Napa.
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Old 08-10-2014, 08:59 PM   #5
mrsaturn7085
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Vlad - We've been in touch before on an electrical project of mine. I was the board member designing a new tool and yes, I ran into issues finding someone to machine the draft tube at a reasonable rate.

The project is more or less on the back burner for me, at the moment. If you'd like my CAD files and a link to my last thread (with some money-saving ideas to avoid having to machine multiple parts), shoot me a PM. I'd certainly throw some money your way to rent the tool if you decided to build one.

The Subaru tool requires the hub to be removed according to the local dealership. I have heard otherwise, but either way, the draft tube is much shorter and less user-friendly than the BIGSKYWRX tool was.

From what I have seen, the Cusco bearings are installed with a C-clip to hold the liner in the hub. The only other kit I have seen that uses a bearing in this location is the Ikeya Formula rear lateral/trailing link kit which completely changes the rear suspension geometry.

I'm personally driving with good number of spherical joints in my suspension without issue, but this is one place I wouldn't put one. I've got the Group N bushings sitting on a shelf waiting to be installed.

-Steve
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:01 AM   #6
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Well, I used BigSky's tool to do Group N on my WRX hubs, now I am looking at Sti hubs in my garage and the group N bushings are coming next week.

I have a C clamp, let's see what I can do with hubs off, rotors off and shields pushed out of the way. Maybe with hose clamps and such.
Oh and I have to buy that special grease from Napa.
I did mine on the car with a c-clamp. Less than ideal to be sure but can be done. Put the bushings in the freezer and heat up the receiver in the knuckle. It makes a difference.
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Old 08-11-2014, 07:17 AM   #7
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i know somebody who may be able to machine the tube....lemme do a lil uncle'in

somebody get me the drawing if you can....PM me
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Old 08-11-2014, 08:10 AM   #8
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-man07 View Post
I did mine on the car with a c-clamp. Less than ideal to be sure but can be done. Put the bushings in the freezer and heat up the receiver in the knuckle. It makes a difference.
Did you grease the receiver with that gel water based grease?
also did you use clamps to compress the bushings? were these Group N (being more rigid changes how they act)
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Old 08-11-2014, 11:46 AM   #9
JarHarms
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I had prior used the sly-glide (silicone) grease but have switched over to the tire lube/water mix that is in the FSM. My experience is that the syl-glide works better initially but remains between the bushing and bore more than I wanted. I believe that interferers with how a rubber bushing is designed to operate. Pretty sure the syl-glide is fine aside from taking longer to dissipate.
The tire lube/water mix is initially harder to work with but it probably has minimal effect on the bushing-to-bore after drying.

mrsaturn7085 yea that was the one I was thinking of. I personally feel that the draft tube discussed in the other thread could still work fine if shortened down enough for Chris to machine it. In fact the taper in BIGSKYWRX's draft tube did not go all the way from one end to the other. It stopped (from memory) about 2/3 the way and continued strait out the loading end.
If the tool (draft, endcap, plunger) can be made for less than the OEM, I'd be willing to go in for a set if it helps reduce cost or if a larger part run entices a machinist to attempt it.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-11-2014 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 08-11-2014, 01:10 PM   #10
A-man07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Did you grease the receiver with that gel water based grease?
also did you use clamps to compress the bushings? were these Group N (being more rigid changes how they act)
I used the 5 star grease on the bushing and receiver. Quite viscous, tacky stuff. Yes they are Group N. Yes a C clamp to press the bushings in. Broke a small one and bought a bigger one, but if the knuckles are off the car just take them to a competent shop. I would not do this the way I did it again. Enormous PITA.
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Old 08-12-2014, 10:41 PM   #11
Vlad
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Removing old one


Installing new one



Adjusting so both ends stick out right, pushing it back out



Result



Nothing got heated or cooled, I used WD40.
I backed it out, when it was half in, looked like the WD had already leaked out, there was no residue..

Subtracting the figuring out, it took me about one hour.

When I backed it out, those rubber flakes came out, but looking at the OEM one and how one of the two channels is wider than the otherone, looks like the flaking happened to the boys at the factory too..

Last edited by Vlad; 08-12-2014 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:02 AM   #12
Fairlaner
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Thanks for posting the pics.

I want these bushings, but have always thought install wasn't going to happen without some sort of special tool. Your pics have got me reconsidering ...
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:06 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
i know somebody who may be able to machine the tube....lemme do a lil uncle'in

somebody get me the drawing if you can....PM me
^^^^^^^^

no f000lin d000ds
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Old 08-13-2014, 09:05 AM   #14
Vlad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairlaner View Post
Thanks for posting the pics.

I want these bushings, but have always thought install wasn't going to happen without some sort of special tool. Your pics have got me reconsidering ...
Today I'll do the second one. The puller is an autozone one. I found in my go to bucket an aluminum washer that goes onto the tip of the rod and acts like a piston.
I tried putting a nut to the tip, so that it doesn't go into the bushing, but it needs to, to guide it. Otherwise the piston pushes at an angle.

Today I'm going to grind the tip of the puller, so that it goes into the bushing without creating a small chamfer at the end, like the first bushing.
The chamfer is harmless, 7/8 of the bushing inner diameter is unchanged.

I'll post photos of the second one.
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Old 08-13-2014, 11:50 AM   #15
mrsaturn7085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
i know somebody who may be able to machine the tube....lemme do a lil uncle'in

somebody get me the drawing if you can....PM me
Drawing available at:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2621282

If you would like the CAD file (SolidWorks), let me know.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:13 PM   #16
Vlad
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Thanks for offering the drawings, Mrsaturn.

I was not looking to make another tool, because it needs to go to a machine shop, to be made.
And it's a difficult situation to have the tool always out on rental and making sure it still works. People that rent it have different levels of skill.
This could be a very good reason for which Big Sky over-designed it with bearings, etc.
Also, the body style that this tool addresses is now obsolete, so ideally, this would address one similar bushing in the GR body, then it has much more lucrative potential.
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Old 08-13-2014, 02:53 PM   #17
Bikelok
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Default Tool for trailing arm rear bushing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
Today I'll do the second one. The puller is an autozone one. I found in my go to bucket an aluminum washer that goes onto the tip of the rod and acts like a piston.
I tried putting a nut to the tip, so that it doesn't go into the bushing, but it needs to, to guide it. Otherwise the piston pushes at an angle.

Today I'm going to grind the tip of the puller, so that it goes into the bushing without creating a small chamfer at the end, like the first bushing.
The chamfer is harmless, 7/8 of the bushing inner diameter is unchanged.

I'll post photos of the second one.
It could not hurt to take some measurements of the different components before you install them and post them. It might help some one down the line who might want to make a new version of the tool.

Edit: I just saw the other link. Never mind.

Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:02 PM   #18
Vlad
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got ya
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