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Old 03-09-2011, 02:33 PM   #426
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
This car better feel like a Z06 when you're finished.
Not hardly. Probably more like a C4 Vette with 187,000 miles. In Michigan.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:38 PM   #427
KP
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I've been in a C5 with that many miles, and it was still fun with an idiot behind the wheel... so I think you're okay.
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Old 03-11-2011, 09:19 AM   #428
madmax_087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KP View Post
I've been in a C5 with that many miles, and it was still fun with an idiot behind the wheel... so I think you're okay.
I was in a C6 once! SO HA!!!
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Old 03-11-2011, 10:41 AM   #429
kpluiten
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I got my 1 piece driveshaft yesterday. IT seems to fit perfectly. Seems lighter than both a stock 5MT DS and a 6MT DS, but I don't have any specific figures until I get it on a scale tonight at Mark's house. That is the final part of the drivetrain I was waiting on. A rough list of what needs to be buttoned up for the car to be driveable (not complete, but driveable):

Drivetrain:
-Install 1 piece DS
-Fill Tranny
-Reconnect NPS and RPS
-Install clutch hydraulic system

Brakes:
-Install master cylinder brace
-Bleed system

Engine:
-Finish evap system (just need to get the canister installed)
-Reinstall intercooler setup
-Oil Change
-Misc Vacuum lines

Suspension:
-Set ride height
-Alignment
-Tighten all pivots/bolts
-Make spacers and install new endlinks
-Have Erik teach me how to tuck tires

Body:
-Install rear bumper
-Install front clip
-Install STi aero parts under car
-Install fender liners


Looks like I'll be busy this weekend.
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:35 AM   #430
Evil Imports
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get busy then
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Old 03-11-2011, 11:49 AM   #431
Battousai311
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Sounds like someine needs to do more wrenching and less typing
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Old 03-11-2011, 12:13 PM   #432
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Imports View Post
get busy then
Will do.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Battousai311 View Post
Sounds like someine needs to do more wrenching and less typing
I can't wrench at work, but I can type.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:38 PM   #433
Z0rr0
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if u need a hand, call me...
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:42 PM   #434
brocksdad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z0rr0
if u need a handjob, call me...
I'll be calling you later.
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Old 03-11-2011, 04:44 PM   #435
madmax_087
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Win!!!
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Old 03-11-2011, 05:07 PM   #436
kpluiten
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z0rr0 View Post
if u need a hand, call me...
Thanks dude. It's mostly one man jobs from here on out. Dude, I totally forgot the trans jack last night! We can meet up this weekend if you still need it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brocksdad View Post
I'll be calling you later.
I feel cheated on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by madmax_087 View Post
Win!!!
Quit surfing NASIOC and process my last parts order.
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:50 AM   #437
amroof
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bump i need updates son!
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Old 03-14-2011, 03:57 AM   #438
TwinscrollGT35R
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Starting to think my car will be done before yours now.

Did kermit get trapped under the car or something?
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:07 AM   #439
Erik
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bump i need updates son!
I hear he decided to give up and just junked it.
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Old 03-14-2011, 04:12 AM   #440
KP
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I thought the car drove off a cliff last weekend...?
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:44 AM   #441
kpluiten
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Well, good news. I started the car this weekend. It took a long time to get hr started, but she finally did. Since the intercooler wasn't installed, I ran her with the MAF unplugged.

Additionally, I completed everything but the following:

Endlinks - Need to cut spacers.
Intercooler - Need to install and do some additional cutting.
Front Fenders
Bumper
Headlights
Alignment

Then she'll be road worthy at the very least.

Anyway, here are a few scattered pictures of things I worked on this weekend:


Clutch system installed. I bled it on the bench and then installed it. I added the rubber hose to protect the aluminum AC line from the braided line. Al lines tend to rub through quickly. There shouldn't be much movement between the two, but just in case. It's just a piece of fuel injection hose split down the side and zip-tied into place.




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Old 03-14-2011, 12:07 PM   #442
kpluiten
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I also had a one piece driveshaft made to replace the two piece STi one. I've read many good things about single piece shafts and the responsiveness they add to the car, but I didn't have the money for an aluminum one ($500) or a carbon fiber one ($1200) so I opted for a steel unit made locally. The advantage to the steel unit is that while it weighs marginally more than the aluminum or carbon units, it is significantly cheaper than the other two, fits much better than the aluminum one, and has a smaller diameter than the aluminum one.

In a drivetrain system, static weight is far less important than rotational inertia. In this case, the steel shaft is 3 lbs heavier than the aluminum one, but it is 2.75" in diameter vs the 3" diameter for the aluminum unit. While I have yet to do the math, I would expect the steel unit to have the same or less rotational inertia than the aluminum solution because it has a smaller diameter and thinner wall thickness. 3lbs static weight difference is really nothing in the scheme of things, especially considering how heavy the stock shafts are. Mark and I did some unofficial measurements and compared it with other driveshaft solutions on the market. This is what we found.

Stock 5MT DS: ~21.5lbs
Stock 6MT DS: ~24lbs (my application)
PST Carbon 6MT DS: 14.4lbs
DSS Al 6MT DS: 14lbs
Steel 1 piece 6MT DS: ~17lbs

Additionally, unlike the stock DS, this new unit has fully serviceable/rebuildable u-joints.

Here are some photos:

Top to bottom: OEM 6MT, OEM 5MT, 1-piece Steel 6MT


Serviceable/replaceable u-joints:





Mark also had a good idea to use the stock center carrier bearing from an OEM shaft as a make-shift driveshaft loop just in case a joint broke. The tail joint of the DS is pretty well encased by a factory part, but nothing but the exhaust would really hold the front up. Since I have a ton of spare 5MT DS's sitting around, I cut one up just to try.

I took this part off (cut the rubber and metal out):


And was left with this:


Painted up:


Everything installed on the car:




This is the only area where I am slightly concerned with fitment (between the DS and the t-member). There is about 0.25" between the two and very little should flex in this area, especially with the upgraded differential and outrigger bushings.


Overall, the fitment was great and it was sized perfectly. It should be balanced to 7000 rpm which is a around 140mph with my final drive. The shop seemed pretty confident it would do better than that to. I guess we'll see soon. I'll be testing this to see if it has any strange vibrations or the like before I have anymore made for others.
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:16 PM   #443
kpluiten
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Bad news for the weekend was that at some point while the steering linkage was removed, I or someone else spun the steering wheel and broke the clock spring. The clock spring is the part that allows you to turn the steering wheel, but still use the controls mounted on the wheel. This is an expensive part and breaking it resulted in no horn, cruise control, or airbag. Not cool.

Either way, since I had nothing to lose seeing as how it was already busted, I decided to open it up and fix it. I ended up finding a right up on it by a guy with a similar issue. It took a while to figure out how it worked and how to repair it, but in the end I was able to re-solder all the connections and trim the small inch long segment of torn ribbon cable (paper thin!).

With the repair completed, the unit tested good and I reinstalled it. Everything appears to be operational now!

The small connections at the bottom to the wire harness was where the ribbons were torn off and where I had to re-solder.


Here was the small segment of broken ribbon I had to remove from the end:
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Old 03-14-2011, 12:21 PM   #444
kpluiten
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Some suspension pictures while the lighting was decent (no endlinks installed):













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Old 03-14-2011, 12:28 PM   #445
kpluiten
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As I mentioned earlier, with the STi suspension arms installed in the narrow wagon body, the wheels are VERY close to the edge of the fender. I will need to roll the fenders just a bit to fit the wheels I think. Erik has kindly volunteered to help with this as he's a local expert on it.

I tried both the Wagon and the sedan fenders, and to be honest, I'm feeling the wagon fenders much more than the sedan. So much so that I'll probably run the wagon front end for the time being and probably look for fender flares like WagonWheel's car.

Also, note the wild amount of caster (wheel pushed forward in the front wheel well). It might be too much, but I'm not sure; many people tell me there is no such thing as too much caster on these cars. This is a result of using the 04-06 STi arms AND doing the bracket flip caster mod.









Sedan fender:


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Old 03-14-2011, 12:55 PM   #446
Evil Imports
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nice work ken
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:26 PM   #447
WgnWheel
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looking really good! Can't wait to see it finished. I'm not a fan of sedan fenders either, i think rolling the stock ones is better. I have the sti arms as well, but I didn't do the bracket flip I don't think. My caster was fine.
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:52 PM   #448
amroof
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the caster mod feels really nice at least it did on my wrx! and that thing is looking good man! great wrok!
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Old 03-14-2011, 01:52 PM   #449
02blkwagn19
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Car looks great Ken! Looks like you're on the home stretch!
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:00 PM   #450
OHARA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
I stripped the brakes because I wanted to make sure they didn't get damaged at all. If you look back a few posts, you can see some pictures of them stripped down to their anodized black base coat. Doing it myself also saved him some time which saves me money. In reality, the stripping of the brakes wasn't that hard; a couple of hours and a can of aircraft stripper and I was done.

As far as the wheels and suspension parts, he stripped all of those things. Most were sand blasted, but the RPM subframe had to be chemically stripped I think due to the previous powder coat on it being too thick for sand blasting to be effective. He took care of all of that.

For the calipers, I carefully dismantled them and inspected all of the seals and pistons. I then just rebuilt the calipers with the old seals and all. It was a risk, but worst case scenario, I just fix whatever leaks. It's not that hard. But since everything looked good, I think they will be just fine. Patience and time is key, you can damage stuff really quickly.

Now that I've done it once, I might add this as a service in the future; rebuilding Brembos or preping them for powder coating.

There are two places that you can get rebuild kits: OEM or Mach V kits. Mack V actually sells the OEM kits right along side their own kits, but obviously, their kits are far cheaper.

OEM Kit - http://www.fastwrx.com/subrcarekit.html


Mach V Kit - http://www.fastwrx.com/mavbrreki.html


Given the price difference and the few good reviews I've seen, I'd probably try the Mach V kit when/if the time comes.

Oh, and thanks for the compliments on the color choice. I agonized about that for months and finally just said "**** it" and chose what I really wanted instead of what I thought would or wouldn't look good. I figured if they didn't fit the car, I could always sell them and buy another set of Brembos to start all over again with. The rest of the parts I had done in green are really under the car so you hardly see them.
Wow thanks for the response and the links! I will be breaking down my calipers today to send out to coat. They are actually a set of Evo 8 calipers that I have machined to work with my setup. I will share progress with the forum when I feel I have made enough progress worth sharing. Here’s a quick pic of the after-machining-before-powdercoat. Sorry, I’m not trying to thread jack.


Your wagon is looking more and more amazing with each update! I am impressed with your style choices and quality of work and look forward to seeing your finished product.
Cheers
-Ryan
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