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04-11-2012, 11:42 AM | #76 | |
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I
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04-11-2012, 11:42 AM | #77 |
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It would not be hard to punch a hole. I have seen it before. Just pour some oil in the hole. Then thread the stud in. The oil with push the bottom right out like lindsay lohan.
Just depends on which hole you use. Some have some meat behind them. I'm glad that MAP has stepped up to correct this issue. I have bought parts from them in the past and will in the future. |
04-11-2012, 11:43 AM | #78 |
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04-17-2012, 01:33 PM | #79 |
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Vehicle:2002 WRX- 6spd - MBP 1992 Civic VX 40MPG |
so i contacted MAP. they said they would give a refund if I wanted. Is it really that big of a problem missing those threads???
they said to just finger tight them |
04-17-2012, 03:07 PM | #80 | |
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04-17-2012, 03:16 PM | #81 |
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Yep, but it has worked without issue time and time again.
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04-17-2012, 03:27 PM | #82 |
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Wow good find! Glad Ive always used ARP products! Hard not to trust them since they have been around for so damn long!
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04-24-2012, 10:52 PM | #83 |
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Vehicle:2004 WRB WRX 2.7L S400SX3, PPG, AEM, 701whp |
Interesting read...
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04-24-2012, 10:53 PM | #84 |
Former Vendor
Member#: 76729
Join Date: Dec 2004
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MWSOC
Location: Woodbury, MN
Vehicle:2004 WRB WRX 2.7L S400SX3, PPG, AEM, 701whp |
Has anyone actually did the math on minimum thread engagement? or are we just guessing at how much thread is actually required? I'm particularly interested in that .200" of thread that is missing from the previous bolt version that is still floating around out there.
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04-24-2012, 11:17 PM | #85 |
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bump for fuji's expertise!
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04-25-2012, 01:00 AM | #86 | |
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Bottom line: If the manufacturer incuded 20 threads in a design, then 20 threads need to be engaged for application of the full intended clamping force. |
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04-25-2012, 02:01 AM | #87 | |
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Quote:
minimum thread engagement is a function of fastener diameter: http://www.engineersedge.com/thread_...engagement.htm It is actually not much and the reason the threads are so long is to keep them from ripping out of the block and not failure of the stud. So you would need to do the math on internal aluminum studs as well as the stud itself (which I don't feel like doing right now because of this bottle of wine). I would think if you have the studs that bottom out you could just thread them into the block until they stop, go back a touch, and be fine. |
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04-25-2012, 11:20 AM | #88 |
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I once snapped a BBC ARP head stud in the bottom of the blind-hole bore. Panicked, I asked a PhD Physicist I worked with the best method to extract it.
He smiled and said "Back it out with a long, sharp awl". I went home and did just that. There is a reason stud installation does not require torque on installation. IMO, the "dog point" is just marketing hype...in this case, gone wrong. |
04-25-2012, 12:18 PM | #89 | |
Former Vendor
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04-30-2012, 03:49 PM | #90 |
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Just wanted to add my experience so its documented.
I had these installed for the break in of a fresh block and re-worked heads. While tuning the car started pushing coolant and needed new headgaskets. Upon disassembly some of the stud nuts came off with much less effort than others. The studs themselves were the same way, some were finger tight, and a few needed a bit more convincing. The places where the headgaskets were failing happened to be directly under the more easily removed head studs. |
06-16-2012, 06:58 PM | #91 |
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Any news from Maperformance? Is the new design coming out?
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02-20-2013, 12:32 PM | #92 |
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Vehicle:2007 STI SWP |
Digging this up from the depths but did anyone else notice that in the first picture it appears that the ARP stud is smaller in diameter (once you get above the threads) than the MAP studs?
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02-20-2013, 01:25 PM | #93 |
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The studs have been revised.
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02-20-2013, 01:40 PM | #94 |
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02-20-2013, 01:41 PM | #95 |
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^would you use them in a build?
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02-20-2013, 01:45 PM | #96 |
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02-20-2013, 01:47 PM | #97 |
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05-24-2013, 05:51 PM | #98 |
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Just purchased new MAP headstuds today for my Track car. I have been hearing a lot of good stuff!
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05-24-2013, 09:09 PM | #99 |
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Are the MAP headstuds mfg'd by K1? Last shop I worked at was investigating producing there own head studs and had several mfg's studs sent out for strength testing/hardness/etc.. and analysis done. Oem head studs broke at various points and psi. The K1 headstuds broke at a higher psi but surprisingly a few broke below the psi of the oem head studs. Arp headstuds broke at the same point everytime and at the same psi. They were the most consistent in the tests and strongest. Somewhat shocking when we got the tests back and saw the findings of the K1 studs.
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05-24-2013, 09:44 PM | #100 |
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Not K1... A1. (as indicated with the picture in the first post, which they also show on their site)
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