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Old 10-27-2017, 10:15 PM   #1
I--RIDE--BIKES
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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2006 Sti
SGM

Default Rod bolts for 6-700whp

Hey guys so I'm looking for real world experiences and thoughts on whether or not my rod bolts are up to the task.

Currently I'm at 505whp on a Dyno Dynamics and will now be switching to flex fuel this winter and should make around 6-700whp.

Motor build is:
Closed deck outfront ej257
1/2" studs
JE Proseal
GSC Billet s2 Cam's
GSC +1 valves, beehive springs and ti retainers
Cp pistons
Manley Turbo tuff I beam rods with arp2000 rod bolts
Stock crank
King bearings
BW s362sx-e turbo
Spinning to 8k

Now, my question is, will these rod bolts take it (rpm/power level)?

Car is a fun street car than occasionally sees the local drag strip.

Thx!
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Last edited by I--RIDE--BIKES; 10-28-2017 at 06:01 AM.
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Old 10-28-2017, 02:31 AM   #2
topfuelman
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Join Date: Feb 2007
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I was looking at the 2000's and decided on L19 as a reasonable upgrade...the next level gets real expensive iirc...going on 6 years at ~25psi..but tend to keep the revs in check. On a Dynodynamics my (2.5 crank) 2.1l ej207 makes about 400whp, full weight car. JDM 6 speed

Depending on your rotating weight...it's the RPM that can kill ya!
I went with light Mahle Pistons, lightish... Tomei rods, L19 bolts..however my pistons are much lighter than yours...

Ask yourself...
Do you really need to spin to 8k?
If not...Have some mechanical empathy in the name of longevity!

trev

Quote:
Originally Posted by I--RIDE--BIKES View Post
Hey guys so I’m looking for real world experiences and thoughts on whether or not my rod bolts are up to the task.

Currently I’m at 505whp on a Dyno Dynamics and will now be switching to flex fuel this winter and should make around 6-700whp.

Motor build is:
Closed deck outfront ej257
1/2” studs
JE Proseal
GSC Billet s2 Cam’s
GSC +1 valves, beehive springs and ti retainers
Cp pistons
Manley Turbo tuff I beam rods with arp2000 rod bolts
Stock crank
King bearings
BW s362sx-e turbo
Spinning to 8k

Now, my question is, will these rod bolts take it?

Car is a fun street car than occasionally sees the local drag strip.

Thx!
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Old 10-28-2017, 04:50 AM   #3
Pro60modman
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Get 625 rod bolts if your running E85. L19 will rust in a E85 car over time unless you change the oil extremely often and don't let the car sit for long periods of time. Your going to have to take your engine apart anyway to change the rod bolts and resize the rods so $125 extra for a set of rust proof rod bolts that are just as strong seem like a better option to me.
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:49 AM   #4
I--RIDE--BIKES
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Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Manitoba, Canada
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2006 Sti
SGM

Default

I definitely need to spin to 8k to get the most out of this setup.

Quote:
Originally Posted by topfuelman View Post
I was looking at the 2000's and decided on L19 as a reasonable upgrade...the next level gets real expensive iirc...going on 6 years at ~25psi..but tend to keep the revs in check. On a Dynodynamics my (2.5 crank) 2.1l ej207 makes about 400whp, full weight car. JDM 6 speed

Depending on your rotating weight...it's the RPM that can kill ya!
I went with light Mahle Pistons, lightish... Tomei rods, L19 bolts..however my pistons are much lighter than yours...

Ask yourself...
Do you really need to spin to 8k?
If not...Have some mechanical empathy in the name of longevity!

trev
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Old 10-28-2017, 05:54 AM   #5
I--RIDE--BIKES
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SGM

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I would get the 625's if i had the motor apart but since its all together, running great and Outfront is a VERY far ways away, I would like to use the arp2000's and am more or less curious if they will make the cut. Obviously stronger is always better but not "always" needed.

My gut says they should be up to the task but I'd like real world input on guys running them at high power levels. 6-700 seems to be very common these days.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro60modman View Post
Get 625 rod bolts if your running E85. L19 will rust in a E85 car over time unless you change the oil extremely often and don't let the car sit for long periods of time. Your going to have to take your engine apart anyway to change the rod bolts and resize the rods so $125 extra for a set of rust proof rod bolts that are just as strong seem like a better option to me.
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Old 10-28-2017, 09:20 AM   #6
TDagen
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Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Xona 78•64 UHF
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V9 6mt R180 Brembos

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I'd run it.

Plenty of people are running stock 2.5l short blocks to 600-700 and Not having rod bolt failures, it's more common to see a sleeve failure in that situation. Ask me how I know...
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Old 10-28-2017, 06:41 PM   #7
Pro60modman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I--RIDE--BIKES View Post
I would get the 625's if i had the motor apart but since its all together, running great and Outfront is a VERY far ways away, I would like to use the arp2000's and am more or less curious if they will make the cut. Obviously stronger is always better but not "always" needed.

My gut says they should be up to the task but I'd like real world input on guys running them at high power levels. 6-700 seems to be very common these days.
That was my point. For one you should never change rod bolts in a runnng engine without checking clearances first and two you said it's running currently so the engine would literally have to be taken apart to change the bolts. One of the first things you do assembling a EJ is bolt rods to the crank before placing them in the block half to be bolted together. As such there is no access to them so you must split the case to get to them which means disassembling the entire engine.

That said I have arp2000's that spin 7700 rpm in a engine that is 6 years and 30k miles old. ARP2000's are more than capable and I've spun them even faster, making more power for significant periods of time.
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:10 AM   #8
Homemade WRX
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search FIRST, then PM!!!

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I go ahead to L19, or CA625 or MP3.5 since they're not that much more and are cheap insurance. L19 can also be prone to an oxygen induced brittleness and will corrode from contact with bare skin. Just be sure to keep L19 oiled at all times.

No, I woudn't trust the ARP2000
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Old 10-30-2017, 02:58 AM   #9
stu
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2.3 slobaru

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I have a very similar setup I ended up with the H tuff+ instead. manley said they can handle 250 hp per cyl. I believe they said the standard turbo tuff was the same. Besides I couldn't make that power on a GTX35.
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:17 AM   #10
I--RIDE--BIKES
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2006 Sti
SGM

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I heard back from Outfront (assembled heads and shortblock) and my tuner and both say I should be fine. So, I’m going to give it a go and see what happens in the spring on E.
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