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Old 02-16-2012, 06:35 AM   #76
vicious_fishes
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spec c rack arrived
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:24 AM   #77
vision.dynamix
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these bad boys arrived
Glad to see you found a set. You'll love them!
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:34 AM   #78
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Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
about to sort out the surge tank, couple of questions:

this diagram is the best way to set it up yeah?


and i'm trying to work out the difference between in tank & external pumps. i've currently got a walbro 255 in-tank replacement, what's stopping me from running that externally?
I know this post is about a week old...but...

An intank pump is designed to be submerged in fuel and it uses the fuel as a coolant. If you are going the surge tank route, I would just leave the current in-tank pump in there and run that feed to your surge tank, then get an inline pump for after your surge tank.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:59 PM   #79
weathermon
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Speaking of Deatschwerks - Vicious I had the noisy Walbro 255 and replaced it with the new Deatschwerks 300lph pump.. it's bloody BRILLIANT, maybe give that a crack before you go trying an external pump? The DW's are capable of high flow at much higher psi
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Old 02-20-2012, 06:58 PM   #80
vicious_fishes
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Speaking of Deatschwerks - Vicious I had the noisy Walbro 255 and replaced it with the new Deatschwerks 300lph pump.. it's bloody BRILLIANT, maybe give that a crack before you go trying an external pump? The DW's are capable of high flow at much higher psi
external for a surge tank

sorry there haven't been many pics lately guys, had a small teething problem (i believe it to be a bad ground) with the new donk in and so haven't been able to do anything.

i'll get some more pics of the new suspension, swaybar, etc etc. still need the car back to work out what kind of intercooler i can run (got two choices, one i know will fit and another i'm not so sure).



and a long and irritating story:

driving through traffic on the way home running the engine in (as you do) and all of a sudden a boatload of white smoke starts pouring out from under the passenger seat. upon pulling over, we find out that the negative/ground wire has been burnt out. evidently, the one i used was a size too small & the car wasn't happy about it.

but here's the thing: it happened 500km into the run-in, totally randomly out of the blue in traffic. figure that one out.

so the car gets towed to the nearest auto electricians and i attempt a bandaid fix to get it home and no luck. so i throw the keys to the service manager and tell him that the negative side is burnt out and simply needs replacing with a new/thicker cable with an eyelet on the end (obviously i can't just install this myself at their shop) that shouldn't take long at all. he tells me they'll get it done tomorrow no sweat.

12.30 rolls around & i still haven't heard anything, so i call them up and ask what's going on. i'm put onto the tech and blah blah, the seat is out of it & it's not ready yet... right. upon hearing this i head straight into the shop to find out what the hell is going on.

i arrive to find not only the whole negative wiring redone running into the engine bay, but the entire positive side redone as well and 2.5 hours of labour at $110 an hour (how the hell it takes 2 1/2 hours to run 3 ground points i don't know) and a $150 bill for 2 metres of 4 gauge wire (which i a couple hours later purchase for $11/metre).

naturally, this resulted in "speaking" to the owner of the business who then speaks to the tech who claims to have received authorisation to do all this work. upon assuring him that this is not the case and i'd been in bed until lunchtime (awake at 4am will do that to you, yay night work) and showing the owner of the business my phone call history (or lack of) we end up having a half hour argument with all manner of swearing, abuse, being called a "smartass" for showing the owner my call history, the whole kit & kaboodle.

upon saying that i didn't ask for this stuff to be done and i didn't authorise it either i was told that i obviously don't know what i'm doing because the car is in their shop (right. didn't just pull the engine, replace half the bloody thing & have it running fine all on my own or anything) and "if you didn't want us to do it then you should have told us not to". the argument then went back & fro from saying they had authorisation, to this work being done being on my head because i hadn't told them not to do it. yep. you read that correctly. i hadn't told them not to remove the engine either, but i noticed that that hadn't been pulled. i also hadn't received any calls from them and could prove it but apparently i'd "doctored my phone" to make it appear so.

in other words they give the customer a whole bunch of **** they don't need, try to tell them they need it, try to use obligation as a lever to make them pay (herp derp already done it, and make sure you don't mention that you can reverse the work and that a customer is in no way obligated to pay for unauthorised work), then when that doesn't work try to browbeat the customer into paying and then when that doesn't work when a customer with a brain that won't back down comes along abuse the hell out of them including insults, swearing and so forth in the hope that they'll pay the money to make you stop. i stagger to think what kind of stunts they try & pull with many of the car-illiterate women that go there but i've never actually been somewhere that has been more unprofessional, and i've been to some ****holes in my time.

eventually it becomes clear they're not going to get me to pay for it and they rip all their cabling out and return it to the way it was. i then clutch-roll it out of the shop, pull into a park on the street a block down and then go & buy some 4 gauge cable to replace things with myself, and replace the whole lot there on the bloody street in a half hour.

then gee wouldn't you know it, the engine problems begin. car was running fine before it goes into the shop but nope, grumpy as hell once it leaves.

upon driving another couple minutes being followed by my old man to a recommended auto electricians i pop the bonnet to find a couple of vacuum lines disconnected. gee what a coincidence... yet, once they're connected it still barely runs.


so the car is now sitting at what i believe to be a DECENT shop whilst they go over the entire thing to find out just what is wrong/causing these issues. i have no doubt that the previous shop has done more than disconnect the vacuum lines but i have absolutely no way of proving it. apparently i should be getting it back today (fingers crossed).

in hindsight, i shouldn't have let the car out of my sight for a second. it's clear that the tech was just doing what he thought he was supposed to be doing - i have no personal beef with him and the work he HAD done was very good. but it's clear that the service manager did not pass my message on to him. because of this i made sure/made it clear that my "beef" wasn't with the tech but with the manager.

this entire thing could have been averted (as i explained to the owner several times) by a simple phone call of "we recommend A, B and C to be done for X, Y and Z reasons, it will cost you approx K dollars, do you want us to do it?", which never occurred. instead, they did whatever the hell they felt like (needed or not) without authorisation and attempted every trick in the book to get the customer to pay for said work. on the rare occasion it doesn't work, make sure you sabotage the customers car out of pure spite that they're not stupid enough to pay you absorbinate amounts of money for stuff they never asked for, authorised or probably even needed.

sigh. rant over. it can be added to the 100 million other "dodgy workshops trying to rip someone off" stories.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 02-20-2012 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:58 AM   #81
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car is back - the adapter plate to bypass the piggyback ecu was shorting on the kickplate.

after redoing the grounding wires, CEL is off, car runs smooth, all is well. did it all myself in about 45 minutes (new cables & everything). un f**king believable.

will get pretty pictures tomorrow as it's dark here now.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 02-22-2012 at 12:50 AM.
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Old 02-21-2012, 08:24 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicious_fishes View Post
car is back - the adapter plate to bypass the piggyback ecu was shorting on the kickplate.

after redoing the grounding wires, CEL is off, car runs smooth, all is well. did it all myself in about 45 minutes (new cables & everything). will get pretty pictures tomorrow as it's dark here now.
Out of interest, can you not flash the stock ecu or does Romraider / ecuflash not support this ecu?
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:45 AM   #83
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Out of interest, can you not flash the stock ecu or does Romraider / ecuflash not support this ecu?
as far as i know, as long as it's a GD ecu it can be open source flashed.

but the kit came with the piggyback and it's wired in with a pretuned map (as i can just get them emailed to me from raptor).
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Old 02-26-2012, 06:20 PM   #84
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spent the last week trying to figure out the issues with this thing.

the issues being:

"when i went to go home from work this evening it started to bog down a bit. As I kept driving it got worse. It seems that in any gear (especially from a stop though), up to 3500rpms it has NO power, barely even gets rolling and it jerks really bad. From 3500rpms and up, the power comes back fully and it gets up and goes. It backfired a couple of times trying to start off in 1st gear from a stop too. By the time I got home the idle was messing up too going from 700 down to around 500 or so and back up again, and often dying entirely."


wouldn't you know it, after doing the plugs, plug leads, coil pack, maf sensor and the fuel pump and being at my absolute wits end, i stumble across this thread: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f13/15879...ml#post2743577

see i had a CEL. i even had it read - and it threw code 45, which is "atmospheric pressure sensor". hence me spending god knows how long dicking about doing everything else, i disconnect the o2 sensor and the car runs like new.

thanks subaru. the error code itself, was the wrong one. i don't even?

anyways. now that this is sorted i should be able to go back to posting more pretty pictures/mods/etc.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:11 AM   #85
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Damn tough luck, I did the same thing after Subaru Of America denied my warranty work, stating my car had been raced due to me having a "racing" clutch along with "other power adding modifications that were present." Only thing that was present was the clutch. I laughed and after a while I told em screw it, cover the dealer and I will pull my car out.

It is a good thing you got your car sorted out, I will tell anyone with this I hate electrical work, but give me a volt meter and I will get the job done, with a lot swearing, cuts to my hands, and more swearing.

Keep up the work.
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Old 03-22-2012, 09:06 AM   #86
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VF - any updates on the build mate?

I had my own spot of trouble today - was 100% my own fault.. A very hot and humid day today with dewpoints over 25C and temp of 31c, I was sitting at the lights for a while and when I took off (aircon on as well) with my foot flat to the floor, I got to 3rd gear and saw my knock gauge flash a red detonation LED - usually if it does have a bit of detonation it's ultra quick.. not to be this time, stupid me let it go for TWO SECONDS before finally letting my foot off (sounded like a can of marbles too)... but I knew by then the damage was done... Here's a few pics of the damage (still runs perfect, no smoke, no knocks or anything.. bloody strong engines that's for sure! One more bad lot of detonation though and I reckon it'll be toast)

All pics taken with my gooseneck camera looking down the sparkplug holes

Piston 1: https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...55519704_n.jpg

Piston 2 (not too bad): https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...51271970_n.jpg

Piston 3 (Looks like the moons surface...): https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...65146256_n.jpg

Piston 4: (shockwave damage): https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net...16750007_n.jpg
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:37 PM   #87
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WM

How the hell did you get the photos, jeez you are cunning dude. Well done, quick way to decarbon pistons but the side effects can be pretty serious lol
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #88
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tim - haven't forgotten about you mate. i know i owe you a cheque still.

had all manner of issues here, dead oxygen sensor, postal company losing stuff in the post, uni f**king my course, it just goes on & on & on...

if this damn bonnet ever arrives my intention is to go with a air-air top mount. thing is if it doesn't arrive/something is wrong obviously i won't be and thus i'll have to work something else out/shoot you back the BOV & pump.


i should be able to at least do some small update pics today. but as is, the car's just sitting still. waiting for an o2 sensor.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 03-22-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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Old 03-22-2012, 06:13 PM   #89
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This is the camera I used - it's *just* too big to fit right down the spark plug hole, it looks to be the exact same size as a spark plug funnily enough.. could prob mod it and remove the metal case for it to fit down the plug hole and get heaps better shots (and inspect the cylinders lol) - http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...a&form=KEYWORD

Just found one that's got a built in screen and is 9mm, that'd fit down the spark plug hole! http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp...e&form=KEYWORD
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Old 05-17-2012, 10:29 PM   #90
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putting my tie rods etc on the spec c rack, ready for it to bolt in:


front strut brace installed:

rear will be installed shortly.

sti head gaskets arrived:

should net me approximately 10.5:1 compression ratio. seems high but with low boost/E85 i'm not seeing an issue. it ran fine with 98 at 10.1:1 so...

how my engine bay looks at the moment:

f**ked the rad fans off to save another 3-4kg off the front end.

almost all the goodies that need to go back together to build the engine:



more to come.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:05 AM   #91
ride5000
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nice build up.
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Old 05-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #92
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engine arrived today, currently assembling. will put some more happy snaps up when i'm done.
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Old 05-24-2012, 07:23 AM   #93
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Good work VF! I replaced a cam sensor on the weekend.. trying to chase down a problem I've had (intermittent) for over 3 years ever since I installed the Moristech. Turned out (mine was the first ever MT I'd wired up) I had actually wired the Moristech ACROSS the cam sensor instead of in series (which may have shorted it out a bit).. and even with my new Vipec I was still having the odd problem when it'd run really great one day and then crap a few days later. Well I can now report the problem is 100% GONE - the symptoms I had was lack of power, running much more loudly when it was running like crap, more detonation and AFR's that would vary quite a bit (tune it to one value and then it'd be out by more than 1 point a few days later). I replaced the crank sensor initially but that made no diff - so if anyone else is having odd probs with their builds it might be wise to check out the cam sensor (even if it throws no codes).

It is only held in with 1 bolt but the tappet cover needs to be removed so it can slide out
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Old 05-28-2012, 08:10 AM   #94
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when i originally wired mine in i had a U.S diagram. their ecu's have the cam and the crank angle sensors swapped over. quick swap of the wires and all was well.

anyways:

fresh new shortblock:

100mm oversize replacement pistons, stock rods, acl bearings, stock crankshaft. basically a stock engine with actual decent bearings. bored with torque plates all nice & shiny.



and longblock assembled:


more snaps to come in the daylight.
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:08 AM   #95
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how the view from the boot currently is:


cross brace + strut brace = nice & stiff.

and this is how the engine bay currently looks:


waiting on my injectors to arrive so i can strap the hairdrier on.

engine specs:

ej251 bored to 100mm
stock crank/rods
oversize stock replacement pistons
acl bearings all round
delta 1500 camshafts
avcs valvesprings for 7000rpm redline
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Old 05-29-2012, 03:23 AM   #96
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making a list of what i can remember i've yanked out for weight reduction, starting at the front of the car:

bumper beam 12kg
subframe 12kg
radiator fan 1.5kg
valve covers 1.5kg
battery 9kg
stock intake plastics etc 5kg
whole A/C system 10kg
lightweight flywheel 6kg
lightweight pulleys 2kg
subframe mounts 1.5kg
bar under the rear seat 3kg
all sound deadening from inside the car 10kg
stripped entire boot 25kg
diff plate 1.5kg

so there's about 100kg out of the car with rough estimations of weight. factor in running fuel a little lower and the car is below 1200kg with a full interior no problems.

yank the passenger seat and another 20kg goes.

i've got my 4pots up for sale if anyone is interested.

Last edited by vicious_fishes; 05-29-2012 at 03:39 AM.
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Old 06-02-2012, 01:03 PM   #97
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tore a fender liner out yesterday so while i was installing a new one i got a snap of the suspension installed:


and how the car currently sits/looks:
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:10 AM   #98
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injectors FINALLY arrived:


so now we can start to get a little more serious:



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Old 06-06-2012, 05:37 AM   #99
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that supercharger looks pretty sexy!

have you considered some kind of ADI?
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:32 AM   #100
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ADI?

aftermarket direct injection?

afrodisiac driven intuition?

i had a whole bunch more pop into my head but i most of the words would have been censored out

i assume you mean some sort of cooling system like water or meth - i have a water to air intercooler setup coming, and will be moving to E85. have at least 4 sources of money owed/income being paid to me tomorrow i've been waiting on quite a while.
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