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Old 04-09-2012, 02:25 AM   #326
sinistermatti
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lacrosse View Post
Recently did my headlights
I hope you don't get fogging on the inside of your headlamps. The paint will still be curing since you just painted them and it can sometimes cause a film on the inside of the lens.

Looks good though
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Old 04-09-2012, 02:27 AM   #327
sinistermatti
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Last edited by sinistermatti; 04-09-2012 at 01:26 PM.
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Old 04-09-2012, 08:40 AM   #328
neko
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Originally Posted by sinistermatti View Post
I hope you don't get fogging on the inside of your headlamps. The paint will still be curing since you just painted them and it can sometimes cause a film on the inside of the lens.
Yup, always helps if you can give paint a day or two to dry completely. Saves having to open the lights several times later...
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:32 AM   #329
hubba16
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http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Stop...ge-2-Sport-Kit

Looking for opinions on this brake kit. Looking for something that's better then stock that won't cost an arm and a leg lol.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:45 AM   #330
wayward167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hubba16
http://www.rallysportdirect.com/Stop...ge-2-Sport-Kit

Looking for opinions on this brake kit. Looking for something that's better then stock that won't cost an arm and a leg lol.
That's basically what I have been looking at doing.... I would add some super blue fluid or equivalent
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:40 AM   #331
neko
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Originally Posted by hubba16 View Post
Looking for opinions on this brake kit. Looking for something that's better then stock that won't cost an arm and a leg lol.
If you want something way better than stock, i'm not sure this is a huge upgrade necessarily for the value, or better than anything you can simply buy from anywhere else for less.
They are just pricey, fancy rotors. Non-slotted, non-drilled blanks are just as good (or better) as anything else, and cheaper by far usually. For a street driven car, a cheap blank is all you need. New rotors mostly help a lot because they mate well with new pads.
Those pads are probably just equivalent to a decent, sticky street pad, which are a good investment to upgrade braking. Take your pick, plenty out there. Expect more dusting, and probably some increased noise in most cases, its just a side effect of a softer pad that gets hotter, quicker, and grabs better.
I've started moving toward a decent ceramic pad to keep braking above-par, but still get rid of most dust. (so sick of cleaning wheels more often than the car... )
Lines are ok, but in a modern, brand new car, they won't make much diff (old worn out lines might be a diff story). A brake master cyl brace might be a better investment for a better feeling pedal.
If you honestly need to increase your braking capacity (besides softer tires), you need bigger rotors to take more heat away. This is more of a track issue for cars. Bigger calipers/pad area isn't always better, and even larger rotors have a downside usually of more weight.
For a street car, however, new, fresh rotors, with new stickier pads, and a good bleed with good fluid will make the biggest difference for a street driven car, and at the best price. Next up would be softer tires, but they come with their own price as well (exactly that: Price. Expensive tires you go through more often.) That and lose some weight. You stop faster when you're not stopping as much vehicle...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wayward167 View Post
That's basically what I have been looking at doing.... I would add some super blue fluid or equivalent
I highly recommend that. ATE Superblue/Typ200 is awesome fluid. A bit more expensive than Valvoline Dot4 (probably the next cheapest decent stuff), at around $10-13/liter, but for a full dot5.1, its much a better deal than some of the $10-20/pint bigger name fluids (Brembo/Motul/etc)
I prefer Typ200 cause its clear vs blueish, but lots of of people like to switch back and forth when bleeding for just that reason.
In the long run, a better fluid may not benefit a street driven car as much as a raced car, but what it will do is continue to perform at the same level or better, for much longer.

Sorry about the long rant, but brakes are a real picky subject for me. I demand excellent braking from my cars, as that's my life on the line, if they don't work well. I think its a great investment. Better IMHO than power or suspension mods, but its usually last on lots of peoples' lists.
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:10 PM   #332
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He's got tires and the wheels aren't horribly heavy....

Those rotors are about the best bang for buck available same with pads....

4pot conversation has been on my radar but waiting on brackets for my year
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:05 PM   #333
hubba16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neko
If you want something way better than stock, i'm not sure this is a huge upgrade necessarily for the value, or better than anything you can simply buy from anywhere else for less.
They are just pricey, fancy rotors. Non-slotted, non-drilled blanks are just as good (or better) as anything else, and cheaper by far usually. For a street driven car, a cheap blank is all you need. New rotors mostly help a lot because they mate well with new pads.
Those pads are probably just equivalent to a decent, sticky street pad, which are a good investment to upgrade braking. Take your pick, plenty out there. Expect more dusting, and probably some increased noise in most cases, its just a side effect of a softer pad that gets hotter, quicker, and grabs better.
I've started moving toward a decent ceramic pad to keep braking above-par, but still get rid of most dust. (so sick of cleaning wheels more often than the car... )
Lines are ok, but in a modern, brand new car, they won't make much diff (old worn out lines might be a diff story). A brake master cyl brace might be a better investment for a better feeling pedal.
If you honestly need to increase your braking capacity (besides softer tires), you need bigger rotors to take more heat away. This is more of a track issue for cars. Bigger calipers/pad area isn't always better, and even larger rotors have a downside usually of more weight.
For a street car, however, new, fresh rotors, with new stickier pads, and a good bleed with good fluid will make the biggest difference for a street driven car, and at the best price. Next up would be softer tires, but they come with their own price as well (exactly that: Price. Expensive tires you go through more often.) That and lose some weight. You stop faster when you're not stopping as much vehicle...

I highly recommend that. ATE Superblue/Typ200 is awesome fluid. A bit more expensive than Valvoline Dot4 (probably the next cheapest decent stuff), at around $10-13/liter, but for a full dot5.1, its much a better deal than some of the $10-20/pint bigger name fluids (Brembo/Motul/etc)
I prefer Typ200 cause its clear vs blueish, but lots of of people like to switch back and forth when bleeding for just that reason.
In the long run, a better fluid may not benefit a street driven car as much as a raced car, but what it will do is continue to perform at the same level or better, for much longer.

Sorry about the long rant, but brakes are a real picky subject for me. I demand excellent braking from my cars, as that's my life on the line, if they don't work well. I think its a great investment. Better IMHO than power or suspension mods, but its usually last on lots of peoples' lists.
understandable. I have brand new summer kdw's. So question if you had only a $600 budget for brakes what set up would you go with? I don't plan on going to the track or anything like that ( of course I never planned on modding either ).
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Old 04-10-2012, 02:46 PM   #334
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I paid $300 for those same pads and good quality blanks, then added a Grimmspeed master cylinder brace. Much better feel than stock. And I paid $150 less.
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Old 04-10-2012, 03:25 PM   #335
UI Vandal
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Good quality blanks matched with pads that fit your driving environment would be my recommendation. What aspects in braking are you lacking now? While driving where/how are your brakes not sufficient? Figure out your goals and current aspects which your brakes fall short. Fancy looking parts can sometimes be just that...fancy looking. Even more so on street driven cars.
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Old 04-10-2012, 04:52 PM   #336
XdanoX
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I better see everyone of you at the auto x I'm the event master for June 30th- 1st.
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:30 PM   #337
UI Vandal
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Auto-x depends on a certain white wedge. Even then it wouldn't be for more than an event or two.
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Old 04-10-2012, 06:37 PM   #338
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Originally Posted by UI Vandal
Auto-x depends on a certain white wedge. Even then it wouldn't be for more than an event or two.
Come to my event
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:33 PM   #339
neko
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Originally Posted by hubba16 View Post
understandable. I have brand new summer kdw's. So question if you had only a $600 budget for brakes what set up would you go with? I don't plan on going to the track or anything like that ( of course I never planned on modding either ).
Pretty much what Josh said. Shop around. Not saying stoptech is bad stuff, but cheaper can do the same job or better. I just bought blank F&R (raybestos) rotors, and pads (Wagner ceramics) for my WRX for like $170 shipped, total.

Rockauto.com has a great selection of stuff, even brake pads from el-cheapo to various performance selections.

Another thing that pops to mind, when replacing brakes on a RS, is that you (unless its changed for 08+ versus the GD's) have smaller rotors setups than a wrx, and can at least upgrade to certain larger setups quite cheap. The front wrx rotor, for example probably costs about the same, and uses the same caliper/pad, just a taller bracket. So its a pretty cheap upgrade (new rotor + used caliper brackets). The rears can be upgraded in basically the same way, iirc, using older Legacy H6 rears. (might actually need diff pads or calipers tho, research that one)

The best part about being at the bottom of the list in brake sizing, almost anything bigger bolts on. Plus, if you do anything that requires a caliper change (i.e. opening the hydraulic system) its good to coincide that with a full bleed

Quote:
Originally Posted by UI Vandal View Post
Auto-x depends on a certain white wedge. Even then it wouldn't be for more than an event or two.
Uh huh.. .rub it in. Actually, june 30th? yeah, i could have it done by then. I'd have it in the garage now, except this silly WRX-no-fuel-issue sucks. (got new bracket n sender today, pump on its way)
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:11 PM   #340
XdanoX
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Hey does anyone here have a 08 Wrx or sti with a access port? Josh Hagen ( the guy who tuned my car) needs one to fix a issue with a ecu it will not harm your car or ap he needs it to reset a ecu and it was recommended by cobb to use a ap
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:24 PM   #341
hubba16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neko
Pretty much what Josh said. Shop around. Not saying stoptech is bad stuff, but cheaper can do the same job or better. I just bought blank F&R (raybestos) rotors, and pads (Wagner ceramics) for my WRX for like $170 shipped, total.

Rockauto.com has a great selection of stuff, even brake pads from el-cheapo to various performance selections.

Another thing that pops to mind, when replacing brakes on a RS, is that you (unless its changed for 08+ versus the GD's) have smaller rotors setups than a wrx, and can at least upgrade to certain larger setups quite cheap. The front wrx rotor, for example probably costs about the same, and uses the same caliper/pad, just a taller bracket. So its a pretty cheap upgrade (new rotor + used caliper brackets). The rears can be upgraded in basically the same way, iirc, using older Legacy H6 rears. (might actually need diff pads or calipers tho, research that one)

The best part about being at the bottom of the list in brake sizing, almost anything bigger bolts on. Plus, if you do anything that requires a caliper change (i.e. opening the hydraulic system) its good to coincide that with a full bleed

Uh huh.. .rub it in. Actually, june 30th? yeah, i could have it done by then. I'd have it in the garage now, except this silly WRX-no-fuel-issue sucks. (got new bracket n sender today, pump on its way)
Thanks for the info I have a '10 wrx I'll look into the rock auto stuff see what the have.
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Old 04-10-2012, 11:29 PM   #342
neko
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Originally Posted by hubba16 View Post
Thanks for the info I have a '10 wrx I'll look into the rock auto stuff see what the have.
hehe.. right. shoulda read that. Think i was talking to another guy elsewhere with an RS and that was still in my head. So.. in your case, ignore the stuff about the front rotor upgrade, tho an H6 rears are still a valid rear upgrade. I personally like the 4/2 pot oem subaru brake setup the best of all, but that's not an under-$500 upgrade... The fronts make a great bolt-on easy upgrade to the WRX's tho. (however, i'm not 100% versed on these GR chassis cars, so i don't know what will/won't work on them that did on the older GC/GD stuff.)

Best of luck with it. Hope you're enjoying the new ride..
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Old 04-11-2012, 12:32 AM   #343
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Originally Posted by XdanoX View Post
Hey does anyone here have a 08 Wrx or sti with a access port? Josh Hagen ( the guy who tuned my car) needs one to fix a issue with a ecu it will not harm your car or ap he needs it to reset a ecu and it was recommended by cobb to use a ap
Thanks Dano, it can be for and 08+ it just needs to be the AP-sub-003, it would take about 30min to do what I need to do, and you will lose nothing, except 30min without a tune on your car. Thanks to anyone who has been helping me find one.
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Old 04-11-2012, 07:57 PM   #344
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[IMG][/IMG]

What do u guys think.
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:00 PM   #345
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Originally Posted by skyline2240
[/IMG]

What do u guys think.
About?
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Old 04-11-2012, 08:11 PM   #346
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Did it not post it? Damn!
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:17 PM   #347
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i see it?
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:37 PM   #348
wayward167
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Dead people? Try re-posting it

Is it the Nabisco?
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Old 04-11-2012, 11:59 PM   #349
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Let's see if it posts this time

[IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-12-2012, 12:23 AM   #350
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Nope.....
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