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11-07-2012, 11:30 PM | #1876 | |
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11-08-2012, 05:15 AM | #1877 | |
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I generally also check my oil only when it's in the same place in my garage, to eliminate changes in the car's angle. |
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11-09-2012, 11:29 AM | #1878 |
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Not that I'm really in a position to trade, but I saw an 09' Mitsubishi Ralliart yesterday for sale. Man, non-squeaky Recaros and a (presumably) stable oil level are VERY tempting.
RECAROS! Ftw! |
11-09-2012, 08:22 PM | #1879 |
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Although some people would say to idle the car for a few minutes, drive the car under normal driving conditions until the thermostat is where it should be. Then, check it. If you check it in the morning, cold, and you presumably have no leaks, add a quart to your reading. Hope this was helpful. :0)
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11-09-2012, 08:24 PM | #1880 |
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Oh, don't literally add a quart to the car itself, add it in your mind...if that makes sense. From dot to dot, entire length of cross hatches is a quart.
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11-09-2012, 09:36 PM | #1881 | |
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11-10-2012, 12:24 AM | #1882 |
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Thanks, but you're sort of preaching to the choir. In the literally hundreds of times and ways I've checked mine, the most variance I've seen in different methods/times of dipstick reading is about 1/8" tops.
I definitely know how to read the pos inaccurate dipstick. |
11-10-2012, 12:29 AM | #1883 |
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And I agree ^^
Checking it cold is most accurate and is easiest. I'm only at 840 miles on this change and its already down at least a quarter inch from where I filled it, btw So even with cooler weather and heavier oil, its looking like my consumption is increasing at the 15k mark. |
11-10-2012, 12:54 AM | #1884 |
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For what it's worth, the head tech at Long Subaru told me that the correct way to check your oil level is to do so after the car has been driven and the engine has gotten up to operating temp. Let the the car sit for about 5 to 10 minutes, then check the level.
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11-10-2012, 12:57 AM | #1885 | |
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11-10-2012, 01:08 AM | #1886 |
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^^ Manual wins!
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11-10-2012, 01:21 AM | #1887 | |
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11-10-2012, 08:09 AM | #1888 |
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Well I'm just sayin that it pretty much reads the same no matter when or how I check it.
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11-10-2012, 12:46 PM | #1889 | |
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Interestingly, the service manual doesn't:
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Honestly, I figure as long as the oil isn't below the L mark (cold or hot), and isn't stupidly high, it's good enough. Also according to the manual, the distance between L and F represents 1 l or 1.1 US qt, 0.9 imperial qt. Now, how much you want to trust this is up to you... it does have the steps "Start the engine to circulate the oil..." and "After turning off the engine, wait a few minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan before checking the level" after actually checking the oil. |
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11-10-2012, 01:01 PM | #1890 | |
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11-10-2012, 04:05 PM | #1891 |
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The manual is a ****ing joke,
It also says to check your coolant at the gas station when you fill up, but also to "wait for the engine to cool". |
11-10-2012, 04:22 PM | #1892 |
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79letour, I don't remember if I asked you this, but how did you break in your engine? Was it according to the manual?
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11-10-2012, 04:53 PM | #1893 |
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Yup. The stupid, stupid manual
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11-10-2012, 05:04 PM | #1894 |
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I varied my rpm's a lot, and I did rev it to 4500 a few times on break-in. No cruise control. After 1200 miles of this, I changed the oil, and had more "fun" driving. Dipstick. Readings stayed normal. Then a dealer change at 3750 with an overfill was when the problems started.
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11-10-2012, 06:15 PM | #1895 |
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Did all the people on this forum who experience oil consumption have that occur only after a dealer overfill, or are some people experiencing oil consumption even after normal fill levels?
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11-10-2012, 06:21 PM | #1896 |
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11-10-2012, 08:01 PM | #1897 |
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I'm wondering if the boxer design is more sensitive to overfill. And with 0w20 and low ring tension, that overfill could ruin the ringseal more easily.
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11-10-2012, 08:04 PM | #1898 |
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^^ This is what I'm trying to understand. I can't figure out how/why an overfill would harm the ring seal, regardless of whether the engine is a boxer or otherwise.
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11-10-2012, 09:24 PM | #1899 |
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When new, there's a 45 degree cross-hatch pattern honed into the cylinders. When break-in occurs, the rings machine themselves, hopefully evenly, into the cylinder.
The boxer, with its cylinders horrizontally laid opposed, I wonder if over-filling could cause an excess of oil behind the low tension rings, and glazing the cylinder(s) or something could be the result. |
11-10-2012, 09:31 PM | #1900 |
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I know for a fact that due to dealer stupidity, my engine has ran with well over six quarts. I got 6.25 out when I drained the last dealer-fill.
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