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08-29-2009, 11:40 AM | #51 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 166465
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Vehicle:1994 Civic Cx Frost White |
After initial radiator install, I kept topping off the coolant tank by turbo , an putting coolant in the reservoir to the full mark.
Every morning i would check it while cold, and top off as needed, until the levels never dropped. System was burped at dealership and they did a pressure test to check for leaks.
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08-30-2009, 07:25 PM | #52 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 166777
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Virginia Beach
Vehicle:2011 WRX Wagon SWP |
I just dropped in a mishimoto alum radiator. I used a t splitter to solve the whole second cap thing, and refilled it with 50/50 subie coolant. Everything APPEARS to be hooked up right and solid, but as soon as I took her out for a test drive, the temp shot up past the 3/4 mark. I let it cool off, drove it home slowly, and the temp stayed just under half like it's supposed to. When I got home, she was smoking like there was no tomorrow. Checked for leaks and couldn't find anything obvious, but the resevoir tank was almost totally empty.
I only used 2 gallons of water/coolant and I need to get more based on some of the posts here about after market rads. I'm also going to pick up the actual pipe for the tank. Any other ideas? She was fine before, just had a small crack in the plastic seal. Now with a new rad, it's running super hot. The fans DO work for sure as well, so it's not that. What's the deal? Any advice? |
08-31-2009, 05:56 AM | #53 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:2003 GGA MBP 12.9 / 105+ |
most overheating issues stem from air in the system.
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08-31-2009, 06:53 AM | #54 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 166777
Join Date: Dec 2007
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Virginia Beach
Vehicle:2011 WRX Wagon SWP |
How long should I burp the lines? I left it uncapped and runnin for about 10-15 minutes until it stopped spurting coolant.
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08-31-2009, 04:16 PM | #55 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 5238
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Bay Area, CA
Vehicle:GGA Black |
You need more coolant. Are you actually burping the lines while running or just letting it run with the cap off?
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09-18-2009, 08:14 AM | #56 |
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Member#: 46135
Join Date: Oct 2003
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:19 GLA45 AMG C63 AMG |
I just wanted to add that last week I did group N motor mounts. It's not that easy, without a lift, but certainly more difficult with the CXA aluminum radiator.
Because of the short lower radiator hose, i had to gradually jack the radiator, as I was jacking the engine, all the time afraid that the lower hose might burst and dump a galon of hot antifreeze on me. If I owned my own garage, I could just wait, but because I'm working in a parking lot, I don't have time to wait. |
09-18-2009, 09:25 PM | #57 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 149040
Join Date: May 2007
Location: toronto
Vehicle:2003 wrx silver |
i just noticed that some of the aftermarket radiators you can actually unscrew the nozzle fitting from the 2nd cap and screw a bolt in.
No need to link a second overflow tube....problem solved. |
10-04-2009, 09:50 AM | #58 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 217629
Join Date: Jul 2009
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Over heating!
Hey Guys, I too recently purchased the mishimoto radiator with new gimmick hoses and 160 degree thermostat 1 month ago and almost immediately had over heating issues. After weeks of burping, filling and overheating, due to low radiator fluid I said enough is enough. I decided to go through the total cooling system to determine the problem. I had the radiator installed by a certified mechanic and he to was frustrated with the reoccurring problem. So, we took a whole day and tried to diagnose the problem. Note, the car never overheated with the stock radiator and was only upgraded to better help cool the car in its new Florida home. Car is now blowing coolant out of the radiator filler cap.
List of procedures we tried: 1.Mishimoto radiator came with a 1.1bar cap and I replaced with a 1.3bar-Same problem 2.I pulled the 160 thermostat and replaced it with the stock 180- Same problem and worse 3. Heated both thermostats on the stove in water with temperature gauge-both worked perfect 4. Flushed the whole system and refilled with new fluid/ drain petcock worked great and flow was steady-Same problem 5. Checked the fans-Working perfect 6. Checked the radiator for cold spots while car is off and at operating temperature-None could be felt 7. Checked the radiator with a laser heat gun- All readings from left to right normal 155 on drivers side and 180 on passengers side. Mishimoto verified this to be normal 8.Checked for any leaks-1bar no leaks 1.5bar it would leak at the filler tube on the compression tester fitting. Tried several different fittings and was able to push 2bars with no leaking-System air tight 9. Co2 chemical test for exhaust fumes in coolant system-Clear 10. Checked oil for antifreeze-None 11. Checked antifreeze for any contaminates-None 12. Removed upper hose and ran to confirm water pump was working-Working great and had great flow 13. Contacted mishimoto. Was asked to email everything we tried, tech was out. No response as of 10/4 but only emailed them on 10/31 and would assume the tech would be out until 10/5 and hope to get a response soon after. 14. Switched the upper radiator cap on the filler box with the radiator cap on the radiator-NO PROBLEMS AFTER 4 DAYS AND 200 MILES OF SPIRITED DRIVING TO TRY AND CAUSE OVERHEATING! Next step was to pull the radiator and reinstall the stock radiator to see if the radiator was somehow bad. Radiators in all respects are very simple and with no radiator fin damage, leaks or blockage it is unlikely to fail or have problems. Blockage would have been the only answer and I am not going to flow test a new radiator to determine adequate flow. I will let mishimoto replace the radiator and test it for that issue. So far the conclusion is that the 3rd radiator cap tried worked well or that the upper and lower combination of radiator caps worked. I no longer have coolant blow off and in return the coolant level is staying consistent and has been checked after each drive and every morning with no further overheating. Will try and keep everyone updated and hope this will help you with any of your radiator problems. I highly recommend installing an aftermarket temperature gauge with a warning to make sure that the overheating does not cause engine damage. I did this immediately after it overheated the first time. The stock gauge works well but is hard to monitor going down the road and you will not see the 20 degree ups and downs that happen very quickly. The temp warning on the aftermarket gauge can be set to give you amble time to pull over and let the car cool down. Hope this helps! |
10-04-2009, 04:55 PM | #59 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32792
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: lincoln, ri
Vehicle:2003 GGA MBP 12.9 / 105+ |
if the physically lower (radiator) cap is the one with the lower cracking pressure, it will vent liquid coolant into the overflow when the pressure reaches the threshold.
if the physically upper (reservoir) cap is the one with the lower cracking pressure (as it should be) then it will vent air/vapor as the pressure reaches the threshold. obviously the system should be completely filled with water, which is why the second scenario is proper. |
07-13-2010, 07:58 AM | #60 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18453
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MASS
Vehicle:MY02 WRX Sport Wagon |
This thread was very helpful. I just finished up replacing my radiator (MY02 WRX Sport Wagon) last night with the Subaru OEM part. Some things about the repair:
(1) The first radiator I got from Subaru was defective. Instead of being a rectangle it was a trapezoid. The fan bolts would not line up at that top. Subaru replaced it without question. I wish I'd thought to inspect it the first time at the parts counter. (2) Put the overflow reservoir on after the radiator is installed. I could not get enough clearance with it mounted on the fan shroud and when I took it off the radiator literally dropped in. (3) The fan connectors are a bitch if they've never been pulled. Needing to pull the tabs up rather than push them down where your leverage is makes the operation swearworthy. (4) The bottom radiator hose had to be trimmed ~1" to fit. No way to get it onto the radiator without collapsing it at the bend. I shortened it at the engine end NOT the radiator end and it went right on. (5) With caps off the radiator & turbo reservoir, I filled the radiator first and it took an entire gallon of coolant. Then I topped up the turbo reservoir and started the car. After ~45 seconds the level dropped in the turbo reservoir so I added more coolant until it overflowed the radiator filler neck. It burped a couple times and the fluid level stabilized below the port on the radiator filler neck. I replaced the caps and that was it. No leaks, took it for a ~12 mile run and temp stayed below the mid-point. Last night in the 80's & humid. We'll see how it is over the week. |
07-13-2010, 09:25 AM | #61 | |
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Member#: 12344
Join Date: Nov 2001
Chapter/Region:
MAIC
Location: Mountains of Maryland
Vehicle:2002 2JC blue |
Quote:
It's another one of the original parts that have not failed. Lucky, I guess. Last edited by z&cobb; 07-13-2010 at 09:36 AM. Reason: correction |
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07-13-2010, 10:55 AM | #62 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18453
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MASS
Vehicle:MY02 WRX Sport Wagon |
Quote:
One other point, my WRX has an automatic. New hoses for the ATF cooler are not included when you swap to the new style radiator. However, the original hoses were in very good condition. They are well-protected by a metal shield and I reused them needing only new hose-clamps. |
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07-26-2010, 11:10 AM | #63 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 124804
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: bloomington, indiana
Vehicle:2002 Impreza WRX Wag WRB |
Quote:
I bought 2 row nameless radiater from ebay seller lokakech. $125 shipped and OBX silicone hoses from Q-sport, 30 shipped. My 02 needed the update so I used the 5/16 Tee suggested in this thread. Additionally, i bought new hose clamps, I'm not a fan of OEM clamps plus they had 140,000 miles on them. The radiator was damaged during shipping, but not enough to affect function. |
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07-26-2010, 12:43 PM | #64 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 18453
Join Date: May 2002
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: MASS
Vehicle:MY02 WRX Sport Wagon |
Quote:
My own fault as I knew I was on borrowed time with the original and I ignored it. /burned my own ass |
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11-22-2010, 02:12 PM | #65 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 4550
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Santa Barbara
Vehicle:2002 WRX Wagon #4321 |
Quote:
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11-30-2010, 04:26 PM | #66 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 124804
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: bloomington, indiana
Vehicle:2002 Impreza WRX Wag WRB |
the radiator has been working great for me, and the T and hose are holding up perfectly
here's the seller that i bought the radiator from http://stores.ebay.com/lokakech-Store and the obx hoses. they charge more for blue and red for some reason http://stores.ebay.com/q-sport-Online |
11-30-2010, 04:31 PM | #67 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 4550
Join Date: Feb 2001
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Santa Barbara
Vehicle:2002 WRX Wagon #4321 |
Thanks. I did find the Q-sport place and got the yellow silicone hoses and they look nice. I ended up buying my radiator from Boostmasters for $100 shipped on Ebay. I'll report back with how the installation goes.
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10-10-2012, 06:49 PM | #68 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 149565
Join Date: May 2007
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Fort Worth Tx
Vehicle:2002 Impreza Wrx White |
I just bought a obx racing alum radiator and the first thing i noticed was it had another radiatoer cap on the main rad, and a overflow nipple coming out the side. i thought i was going to have to "T" off the original overflow from the upper tank but i guess now i see to just pick up the updated tube and hoses from the dealer when i go buy antifreeze right? apparently all newer aftermarket and stock radiators are that 2 filling point/cap design?
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09-22-2013, 11:23 PM | #69 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:02 WRX VF34 (SOLD) Junior Tuned 301whp |
Quote:
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09-24-2013, 10:26 PM | #70 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 32459
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: NY
Vehicle:02 WRX VF34 (SOLD) Junior Tuned 301whp |
I installed OEM replacement Koyo radiator ($135 shipped from Amazon) with neck filler on my 2002 WRX tonight.
Everything went well except that hard pipe had to be bent in order to clear the cap/neck. I have temporarily capped the nipple, but plan to reroute it later. |
05-16-2014, 09:32 PM | #71 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 173715
Join Date: Mar 2008
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Bay Area/SB
Vehicle:2002 WRX |
Sorry to bring this thread back from the dead but I have a relevant question and don't want to be told to "search".
Question: why does everyone seem to T-in the additional hose? I'm considering cutting a second hole in the overflow bottle and just stuffing the second hose in there. I'm not intimately familiar with the cooling system so I figured I'd post this idea up for criticism before executing. Do people do the T because they think it looks cleaner or is it functionally different than running two hoses in to the overflow? Thanks! |
05-18-2014, 10:11 PM | #72 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 230978
Join Date: Nov 2009
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Cedar Falls, Iowa
Vehicle:2002 VF43 Stg III PSM |
I did what you are suggesting when I replaced my radiator a year ago. No problems. I think it's just a preference.
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03-19-2017, 07:06 PM | #73 |
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Member#: 434057
Join Date: Nov 2015
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This is bringing up a old thread, but here it goes anyway. When you install a new radiator in the 02 wrx you have two radiator caps. And lines that run to the overflow tank. The nipple on the expansion tank which runs to the rezervuar has rusted off. I have two options here, either buy a new expansion tank and run new line to the reservuar through a T-tap. But can placing a higher pressure cap on the expansion tank 16.5 and a normal pressure on the radiator bypass all this extra work? Essentially eliminating the cap on the expansion tank?
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