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Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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11-18-2010, 04:51 PM | #226 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 159039
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Townsville, Australia
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Blue |
according to the whiteline site, the COM-Cs give -0.5 camber and +0.75 caster
stock I could get nearly -1 camber front in theory, I lose 0.77 from the D-specs, gain 0.5 from the COM-Cs so I was hoping to get something like -0.75 front camber, which I may have accepted to avoid slotting, but the -0.28 I'm getting is puzzling, and will be useless for a daily drive/occasional trackday I'll probably get another wheel alignment to see what I can get in the back, then have the back set to -1.1 (D specs + whiteline camber bolt in upper hole) At least at that point it will be a boring 'safe' daily driver rather than bad camber all around= until I can get the front struts slotted Just noticed on my old front struts (stock RS, 5 years old, lots of alignments): The forward hole seems to be elongated down ~1mm and the rear hole seems to be elongated ~1.5mm inwards (toward the strut shaft) Maybe this accounts for the extra camber I've lost, whether done on purpose or wear from so many wheel alignments
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11-18-2010, 05:26 PM | #227 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 207118
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Tallahassee, FL
Vehicle:2003 Wrx Wagon |
2003 WRX Wagon
after break in and further testing now at 4 5/8 front and 4 11/16 rear and its perfect RCE Wagon springs, com C front, group N rear 13" and 13.25 rear, 14 driver front, 14.25 passenger front Whiteline f/r 22 adj bars, WL solid endlinks f/r both bars set full stiff 17x7 +53 Prodrive P7's with 225/45/17 GY F1GSD3's (no rubbing) Amazing the difference 1/8 or 1/16 of a turn can make! Wil update with alignment when I get it redone. The shop did a terrible job, put the bolts for the front in the least camber position, and the ones for the rear in the neutral position (thanks to the camber bolt faq, I set the fronts and can feel the difference!) Fixed the height issue by setting the bushing preload (although now the driver side f/r is 1/4 lower than passenger, close enough) -1.3 front and -.7 rear - zero toe on stock front bolts Last edited by ezil71; 02-05-2011 at 03:12 PM. |
11-18-2010, 05:59 PM | #228 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 88501
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: NorCal
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Dark Grey |
Quote:
What I found was that "2nd set camber bolts" provided -0.3 more camber than Com-C's with no other variables changed. I agree... D-specs SHOULD be wagon spec. It would be another feature "extra neg camber". They don't have to mention the word "wagon". And sedan owners can always dial it back with the stock bolts. But alas, this will never happen. Tokico has no interest in this unless it's a defect. Maybe we should position it as a defect! Show that it's off spec... even for sedan... then during the "fix" they use the "wagon feature". Naaaahhh we're dreaming. |
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11-19-2010, 03:12 AM | #229 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 159039
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Townsville, Australia
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Blue |
Quote:
instead of subaru changing the struts to give wagons back the camber they need, why not make wagon specific hubs that have the offset built in :P yeah... dreaming :P then I could see wagon hubs in short supply as sedan owners buy them for the extra 0.7deg camber :P |
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11-19-2010, 02:54 PM | #230 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 88501
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: NorCal
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Dark Grey |
Quote:
Subaru has already "fixed" this problem with the current generation... by making both hatch and sedan have the same width. They want us to trade in to "fix" this problem. |
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11-20-2010, 04:45 AM | #231 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 159039
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Townsville, Australia
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Blue |
took mine in to a different shop today to see if I could get close to stock camber on the back (stock -1.1), taking into account the D-specs losing ~0.7 camber rear and the whiteline bolts being advertised as capable of +/- 1.75 camber, I should have had no problem getting back to stock, or even higher( close to -2 if I really wanted)
first shop set them to -0.28 (as per my instructions to match to the front settings) second shop managed to get them to about 50 minutes (50/60 of a degree or -0.83) Had a look under the car after and the washer is set to + camber adjustment, and the bolt is set to 'no adjustment' position, so it might as well not be a camber bolt.. |
12-06-2010, 02:31 PM | #232 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 214270
Join Date: Jun 2009
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: central jersey
Vehicle:2014 FXT Touring Satin White Pearl |
after tinkering with adjustments for 3 weeks.. i think i may have found the perfect setting for my car
all on a 2005 Forester XT: 4 TFFS - 4 1/4 TFFS (F-R) RCE WRX Wagon Black springs 24mm Whiteline front swaybar 22mm Whiteline rear swaybar Whiteline Front & Rear strut tower bars Subtle Fender Braces Subtle Trunk Brace 04 Sti Aluminum Control Arms Whiteline Control Arm bushings Whiteline Roll Center Adjustment Kit 05 Sti Aluminum Rear Lateral Links stock top hats stock FXT rims (16x6.5 +48) wrapped in 215/60/16 Blizzaks 0 toe all around.. -1.3/-1.0 camber F/R ride is pretty dam comfy for the most part and handling is f**kin awesome before this i was on stock wrx sedan struts with stock 06 sti springs.. that ride was HORRIBLE.. bouncy and bumps were way harsher than my setup now.. plus was on stock control arms and lateral links Last edited by wordsarize; 01-28-2011 at 02:43 PM. |
12-17-2010, 06:36 PM | #233 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8331
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:2017 Forester Stealthified |
OK, here goes.. Gurus chime in
2002 WRX wagon 17" Cobb CT-1 (technomagnesio) wheels - Yoko S.drives front, Krapmaster rears 225/45-17 TiC front cowl braces Whiteline ALK and steering bushing Whiteline Com C front camber bolts rear TiC klunk killer Group N mounts (motor, pitch stop) Kartboy shifter bushings 20 mm sedan rear sway (one of the first mods I did) Prodrive blue springs 0 toe -1.5/-1.0 camber F/R 4 caster! Running D-specs at 6 TFFS front and rear. Gurus care to comment (bigsky, arnie et al.?) This is a daily driver, kid hauler. Rare track stuff. Ride seems more controlled than previously on stock struts. The alk, bushings and cowl braces have made a remarkable difference in steering feel and turn-in. Cornering much better, car handles mad tyte, y0! Shout out to TiC for recommending such an outstanding setup!!! So what recommendation for next mods??? Best, H Last edited by Bad Dogg; 12-17-2010 at 07:05 PM. Reason: alignment |
12-18-2010, 12:58 AM | #234 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 202146
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: My Island
Vehicle:2018 Crosstrek Crystal White |
Start dialing In on the adjustment front & rear. Use local roads and expansion joints bumps as a measure of necessary adjustment. Look up a thread done by TIC regarding how to dial ^In the suspension.
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12-28-2010, 05:53 PM | #235 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8331
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:2017 Forester Stealthified |
Did do the dialing in as clint advised... This is where I ended up!! Seems to be working well
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01-28-2011, 02:14 PM | #236 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 236718
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Hollywood, CA
Vehicle:2007 Impreza WRX Wag Urban Gray Metallic |
Every time I make an adjustment, I tighten the struts to full stiff beforehand, make my adjustment from there, and have noticed something strange. It never seems to be the same number of turns back to full stiff that it was when I initially made the adjustment. Has anyone else noticed this? Is it a problem?
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01-28-2011, 02:25 PM | #237 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 202146
Join Date: Feb 2009
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: My Island
Vehicle:2018 Crosstrek Crystal White |
^^^good idea to return it to full stiff prior to adjusting. Mine seem to remain. Maybe something is lose?
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01-31-2011, 03:29 PM | #238 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 236718
Join Date: Jan 2010
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Hollywood, CA
Vehicle:2007 Impreza WRX Wag Urban Gray Metallic |
The possibility occurred to me, but in all 4 struts?
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02-16-2011, 05:09 PM | #239 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 218229
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Vehicle:2003 WRX wagon silver |
Maybe a silly question but for all you wagon guys out there with these struts, do i need Remote Adjusters for the rear?? Fastwrx.com has a awesome deal on these right now. Thanks
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02-16-2011, 05:12 PM | #240 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 71092
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Licking County, Ohio
Vehicle:2005 2.5RS Wagon Regal Blue Pearl |
Not required. If they were free, I'd take them and install them. However, I wouldn't pay a dollar for them in a wagon.
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02-16-2011, 05:12 PM | #241 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 159039
Join Date: Sep 2007
Chapter/Region:
International
Location: Townsville, Australia
Vehicle:2011 WRX Hatch Blue |
not needed for wagons at all, you just open the boot, remove the caps and adjust with the tool
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02-16-2011, 05:16 PM | #242 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 218229
Join Date: Jul 2009
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Vehicle:2003 WRX wagon silver |
Cool, i appreciate your answers. That is what i was looking for. I figured i didnt but i just wanted to make sure it was easy access for adjustment.
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02-17-2011, 09:31 AM | #243 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8331
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Pittsburgh
Vehicle:2017 Forester Stealthified |
Update
After a couple months, the shocks did soften up a bit. Talked to Clint, this is expected. Things have settled in at 5 turns FFS front and 5.5 rear with Prodrive blue springs.
Also I do go all the way back to full stiff before tightening. I have also noticed that there has been slight shifts (perhaps 1/4 turn) since the initial settings, as noted above. Not sure why that would be.. Overall a bit of twiddling but a very nice choice! |
02-19-2011, 04:29 PM | #244 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 152699
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: The Greater Whiter North
Vehicle:2013 Flat 6 Shoebox Muddy |
Quote:
Anyhoo on to Specs: 2007 WRX Wagon Installed: Tokico D-Specs RCE Blacks Whiteline Com-C Top Hats Other Suspension Goodies: SPC Rear Camber Bolts Cobb 25mm Front Tubular Sway Bars Cobb 25mm Rear Tubular Adjustable Sway Bar Cobb Adjustable Rear mounts Perrin SLS Paranoid Fabrications Saggy Butt Shims Michelin Pilot Sport PS2's Plus other various other bushings and bracing items (that I'm not supposed to list) Aligment specs: Front Camber: -1.3* (Maxed) Rear Camber: -1.4* (had to add extra cause of my winter wheels) Toe 0.00-0.01 all around (Took me a while to practically 0 out all 4 corners ) Caster: I can't remember the exact specs. I'll have to look at my printout but somewhere in the 4* range. Right now have the Dspecs at: Front: 3 TFFS Rear: 4 TFFS Feedback and thoughts would be appreciated |
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02-28-2011, 10:09 PM | #245 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 188171
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: bryan/college station
Vehicle:04 sti baby wrb |
after 6 pages i still could not find settings for swift springs on an 04 sti?
i have no idea what the spring rate of the swifts i bought but i bought the package from turn in concepts and have experimented in many different settings and have not found a setting i like yet, the performance is great.......anything to get rid of the rear clunk with the stockers was a plus but i really like the way the stock suspension felt, the d specs and the swifts did take out the bobblehead though. |
02-28-2011, 10:18 PM | #246 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 200767
Join Date: Jan 2009
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Nashua, NH
Vehicle:2006 WRX TR 2013 Crosstrek |
Quote:
Try 4.25 TTFS for the front, and 4.75 TTFS for the rear. I found this to be a great starting point. |
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02-28-2011, 10:48 PM | #247 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 188171
Join Date: Aug 2008
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: bryan/college station
Vehicle:04 sti baby wrb |
i'll give that a shot when i finish my engine. i'm sure i'll love the suspension more when i find the sweet spot.
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04-19-2011, 04:19 PM | #248 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 1366
Join Date: Apr 2000
Chapter/Region:
VIC
Location: Delta, BC, Canada
Vehicle:2000 RS-T -> RSTi-8 Blue Ridge Pearl |
Hoping for a quick setting to start off:
2000 RS with engine/6MT swap stock sway bar P1 springs (215/195 F/R I believe) needed spacers in the back Group-N strut tops Extra camber bolts in front, camber bolts at the back. For reference, break-in setting should be 5TFFS (all around?)... hoping no snags so I get my car back end of day. |
04-20-2011, 09:12 AM | #249 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 101361
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Baja Oregon
Vehicle:05 OBS Obsidian Pearl Black |
Quote:
I second this! I do however turn my struts one turn softer with my snow tires (taller side wall) on snow. Seems to settle in better with less 'skip'. |
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04-20-2011, 09:14 AM | #250 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 101361
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Baja Oregon
Vehicle:05 OBS Obsidian Pearl Black |
Quote:
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