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Old 01-29-2015, 10:57 AM   #1051
duke77
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Looks great!
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:03 PM   #1052
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Thanks for the write up my buddy wanted to do this
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Old 03-15-2015, 12:54 PM   #1053
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Found this thread accidentally, i was having trouble removing the inner tail light (the reflector with the reverse light) so i googled and found this. but this guide was an enormous help to me. It took me most of the day to remove my old vinyl, polish the tail lights, evenly apply the vht and wait for it to dry and all that but the end result is spectacular. I didnt clearcoat but i plan on polishing every few months so it should hold well. I used to have lamin x vinyls and they were terrible imo. Glad i did this!


Now as far as removing the third brake light would you all recommend removing the entire wing or just reach in there and try? The two bolts that hold that light in place are difficult to get to.
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Old 05-02-2015, 09:48 PM   #1054
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This is a great mod! Thanks for posting! I've been debating on buying vinyl overlays for the past 2 years but I'm no professional with vinyl. Was gonna buy 20% black overlays so I wouldn't blow $30 on vinyl.

What type of tape are people using for the blinker/reverse lights? I've got the blue stuff and they keep letting paint seep through the edges.
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Old 05-03-2015, 12:33 AM   #1055
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 084eatWRX View Post
This is a great mod! Thanks for posting! I've been debating on buying vinyl overlays for the past 2 years but I'm no professional with vinyl. Was gonna buy 20% black overlays so I wouldn't blow $30 on vinyl.

What type of tape are people using for the blinker/reverse lights? I've got the blue stuff and they keep letting paint seep through the edges.
Clean your surface better. And they also have green painters tape that works better.
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Old 05-06-2015, 07:08 PM   #1056
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Originally Posted by tilegend View Post
Clean your surface better. And they also have green painters tape that works better.
Thanks!

Just finished the mod. It looks good, not perfect like I thought it would though.

The surface doesn't look too glossy. Did give the lights 2 dusting coats of clear so hopefully it'll last 2-3 more years. I know that medium/heavy coats will give it a glossy look, but last thing I want is for it to start running.
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:11 PM   #1057
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Originally Posted by 084eatWRX View Post
Thanks!

Just finished the mod. It looks good, not perfect like I thought it would though.

The surface doesn't look too glossy. Did give the lights 2 dusting coats of clear so hopefully it'll last 2-3 more years. I know that medium/heavy coats will give it a glossy look, but last thing I want is for it to start running.
What clear did you use?
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:14 PM   #1058
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Just being the ever-present devil's advocate for this mod: saw one that was DIY'd yesterday. Looked like ****.


Good luck!
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:22 PM   #1059
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Just being the ever-present devil's advocate for this mod: saw one that was DIY'd yesterday. Looked like ****.


Good luck!

Yup... that's why i asked what clear cause in about a year maybe even less that cheap clear will fade and turn the red into a faded orange
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Old 05-06-2015, 08:24 PM   #1060
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Exactly.
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Old 05-09-2015, 08:37 PM   #1061
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What clear did you use?
I had a can of Dupli-Color wheel gloss clear coat sitting around so I just used that.

I ended up pulling the lights off again today and putting another base coat on cause it was starting to fade and become orange instead of red. The finish started to wrinkle up in some spots...not sure what caused that.

Besides the wrinkles, it's looking glossy now. Do you even need to use clear on a enamel finish(Dupli-Color Metalcast)?
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Old 05-09-2015, 11:14 PM   #1062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 084eatWRX View Post
I had a can of Dupli-Color wheel gloss clear coat sitting around so I just used that.



I ended up pulling the lights off again today and putting another base coat on cause it was starting to fade and become orange instead of red. The finish started to wrinkle up in some spots...not sure what caused that.



Besides the wrinkles, it's looking glossy now. Do you even need to use clear on a enamel finish(Dupli-Color Metalcast)?

The purpose of the clear coat is to protect the paint you already applied from sunlight, but mostly from constant washing. If you leave the red without clear, every time you wash the car you will be washing away the red coat, causing it to fade faster than it would if it had the clear coat.

Now, what you have to be careful with is choosing your clear coat. Enamel and laquer tend to react when applied to each other, causing the wrinkles and pitting some people have suffered. If you're applying one on top of the other, the base coat needs to be fully cured to avoid this. Apart from that, old rattle can paint tends to go bad, so you need to test it elsewhere to make sure it's good before applying it on top of the base coat. Also, read the can instructions. If the instructions say to hold the can upright, don't go spraying at an angle as you will be throwing air along with paint, which can also cause wrinkles.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:08 PM   #1063
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Why are people STILL using Krylon stained glass and Metal Cast for the red?? For the last 5 years we've known they both fade like crazy, even the OP's eventually... Not reading the whole thread is careless and is mostly to blame for all the fading/stripping/ruining nightmare stories. So for those of you too lazy to actually read the full thread, here's the answer served up on a silver platter for you...

DO NOT USE KRYLON OR METAL CAST RED.

Do your research before you do this. I think cianuro has had the most successful procedure and paint combination in this whole thread, and those who have copied it have had similar results. I've read all 43 pages of this and only ONE person reported that the VHT faded over time, but since we don't have any details about his application or what he defines as "fading," even that report is not conclusive.

I for one am very impressed with cianuro's job on this and will be copying his procedure in the next few weeks.
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Old 08-27-2015, 12:10 PM   #1064
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For the record, mad props to the guys who took the risk to do this way before we knew about all the fading and stripping issues. There was no way you could've known, but at least the whole community will learn from your mistakes and your documentation of them.
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Old 08-27-2015, 06:06 PM   #1065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aramis View Post
Why are people STILL using Krylon stained glass and Metal Cast for the red?? For the last 5 years we've known they both fade like crazy, even the OP's eventually... Not reading the whole thread is careless and is mostly to blame for all the fading/stripping/ruining nightmare stories. So for those of you too lazy to actually read the full thread, here's the answer served up on a silver platter for you...

DO NOT USE KRYLON OR METAL CAST RED.

Do your research before you do this. I think cianuro has had the most successful procedure and paint combination in this whole thread, and those who have copied it have had similar results. I've read all 43 pages of this and only ONE person reported that the VHT faded over time, but since we don't have any details about his application or what he defines as "fading," even that report is not conclusive.

I for one am very impressed with cianuro's job on this and will be copying his procedure in the next few weeks.

It's been about a year since the last pics I posted, and the tails still look about the same. Can't wash the car because we're in drought, so I'll post more pics after a good wash and another polish on the tails.

Thanks for the compliments!
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Old 08-27-2015, 11:58 PM   #1066
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aramis View Post
Why are people STILL using Krylon stained glass and Metal Cast for the red?? For the last 5 years we've known they both fade like crazy, even the OP's eventually... Not reading the whole thread is careless and is mostly to blame for all the fading/stripping/ruining nightmare stories. So for those of you too lazy to actually read the full thread, here's the answer served up on a silver platter for you...

DO NOT USE KRYLON OR METAL CAST RED.

Do your research before you do this. I think cianuro has had the most successful procedure and paint combination in this whole thread, and those who have copied it have had similar results. I've read all 43 pages of this and only ONE person reported that the VHT faded over time, but since we don't have any details about his application or what he defines as "fading," even that report is not conclusive.

I for one am very impressed with cianuro's job on this and will be copying his procedure in the next few weeks.
Well just like cianuro stated... its the job of the clear to protect the base coat. Pick a crappy clear... dont expect it to last long.

I painted an intake tube with metalcast and it lasted for years. No exposure to UV or washing so of course it lasted long.
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:00 AM   #1067
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tilegend View Post
Well just like cianuro stated... its the job of the clear to protect the base coat. Pick a crappy clear... dont expect it to last long.

I painted an intake tube with metalcast and it lasted for years. No exposure to UV or washing so of course it lasted long.
Oh I'm definitely not arguing that they are bad products, I'm sure they work quite well for a ton of other applications. But I think it's been conclusively proven that they do not work long-term for taillight painting.

As for the clear coat thing...UV isn't the only light that fades paint. All light fades paint. UV light's higher energy just causes it to fade faster. We've seen the VHT hold up much better than the other two when finished with similar amounts and qualities of clear coat, so I still think the root of the problem lies with the red paint.
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:17 AM   #1068
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Default DIY: 2009 wrx tail light mod (only 10 dollars!)

Here's an iphone pic after 1 year:

https://flic.kr/p/xXhj2X

I'll try to get a better one when I get the chance to wash the car.
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:53 AM   #1069
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aramis View Post
Why are people STILL using Krylon stained glass and Metal Cast for the red?? For the last 5 years we've known they both fade like crazy, even the OP's eventually... Not reading the whole thread is careless and is mostly to blame for all the fading/stripping/ruining nightmare stories. So for those of you too lazy to actually read the full thread, here's the answer served up on a silver platter for you...

DO NOT USE KRYLON OR METAL CAST RED.

Do your research before you do this. I think cianuro has had the most successful procedure and paint combination in this whole thread, and those who have copied it have had similar results. I've read all 43 pages of this and only ONE person reported that the VHT faded over time, but since we don't have any details about his application or what he defines as "fading," even that report is not conclusive.

I for one am very impressed with cianuro's job on this and will be copying his procedure in the next few weeks.
So much this

Could have saved me a lot of headaches.

Also when removing your faded paint, never spray any sort of thinner directly on the lenses. Brake clean and 3m adhesive remover will both work if applied with a rag but if sprayed directly on the lens it will cause the plastic to crack lol.

#justgetoverlays
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Old 10-30-2015, 04:28 PM   #1070
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Dude this is magic! Been looking for a cheaper less stressful rout than overlays.
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Old 11-07-2015, 01:00 AM   #1071
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Anyone still looking to do this needs to follow the successful method with professional 2k clear coat.

If we don't have the equipment or access to a body shop can a two part rattle can 2k clear offered by various paint companies be used? I have seen a few options like Eastwood among others.
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Old 11-07-2015, 05:58 AM   #1072
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Anyone still looking to do this needs to follow the successful method with professional 2k clear coat.

If we don't have the equipment or access to a body shop can a two part rattle can 2k clear offered by various paint companies be used? I have seen a few options like Eastwood among others.
2K must be used. Whether it's Eastwoods mix on spray type or a body shop mix before spray type. 2K. Gotta be 2K!!!

single part Rattle can clear sucks! That is; Acrylic Enamel rattle can clear will not harden like 2K and will not protect from UV even if it says it does...it won't.

I've been spraying tails for several years. I always mix my tinted colors with intercoat and then clear over the top.
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Old 11-07-2015, 12:27 PM   #1073
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All I know is, metalcast plus regular single-part clear looks good for about 2 months, then goes to suck. If you have a discerning eye, you'll notice fading. If you want that junkyard mad max look in a few months, do it!!
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:05 PM   #1074
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All I know is, metalcast plus regular single-part clear looks good for about 2 months, then goes to suck. If you have a discerning eye, you'll notice fading. If you want that junkyard mad max look in a few months, do it!!
I had about 5 coats of clear and mine are fading after 6 months.... now how do I get that crap off?
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Old 11-25-2015, 02:51 PM   #1075
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That's the same issue I had. I tried paint removers, and the plastic ended up getting marred beyond help. Perhaps sanding would have been a better option, since chemicals didn't go over well with the base plastic.

...

After destroying my stock tails with paint remover, I caved in, and sourced used tail lights from a 2009 Impreza Outback Sport. Not the answer you want to hear, but it's what got me back to stock.

Cost was about $300 for two used outer and inner light units, when sourced on www.car-part.com. I actually drove to the salvage yard (full of wrecked imprezas, it was kinda interesting) and pulled them off the donor car myself. I had to source the inner liftgate tail lights from other junkyards, because I've noticed that some guys want to sell the entire liftgate and won't want to part it out.
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