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Old 05-26-2015, 06:08 PM   #26
Crystal_Imprezav
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rods should not effect the ease at which it spins
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Old 05-27-2015, 06:52 AM   #27
cowboy_Rob
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If it was line honed with the dowels both up top I would either put them both back up top and run it. Or have the machinist redo it since he should've known better
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:06 AM   #28
OC_Nooby
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I'm getting him to redo his work with the proper dowel pin placement.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:50 AM   #29
Crystal_Imprezav
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Make sure he doesnt have to cut too much more off the cases or you will have issues fitting the oil pump and rear seal
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:42 PM   #30
OC_Nooby
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Well, doesn't look like he is willing to redo my block.

How to waste $1000 on machine work (not including bearings and the cost of the block itself)

I'm going to clean the threads out with a chaser tonight (if I can get a hold of one) and retorque once more (some bolts were binding with 30w oil).

If it doesn't spin freely i'm going to look into a sleeved block from a competent builder in the states and get this done with.

I'm tired and angry at the same time.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:04 PM   #31
Crystal_Imprezav
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find someone to line bore it on a CNC, must more accurate and better results vs a line hone machine.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:06 PM   #32
Delphi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_Nooby View Post
Well, doesn't look like he is willing to redo my block.

How to waste $1000 on machine work (not including bearings and the cost of the block itself)

I'm going to clean the threads out with a chaser tonight (if I can get a hold of one) and retorque once more (some bolts were binding with 30w oil).

If it doesn't spin freely i'm going to look into a sleeved block from a competent builder in the states and get this done with.

I'm tired and angry at the same time.
I would not be okay with that. I'd contact BBB or if you paid by credit potentially do a charge back.
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:32 PM   #33
OC_Nooby
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It was cash, BBB wouldn't do anything...

I have a few questions.

I have cleaned the threads on the case, cleaned out the cases, cleaned the case bolts, removed my rods, marked the bearings with permanent marker from parting line to parting line, used assembly lube on the bearings and torqued it all back.

It takes 10lbs to start, then 5lbs to smoothly rotate.

When I took everything apart the center of the bearings had the permanent marker removed (very little on majority) but some had more, never at the parting line.

I'm going to remeasure the clearances this weekend for a sanity check.

Can I polish the bearings that have light scratches in them (OEM bearings)?

Is my permanent marker test dumb as in a real world scenario I would have a film of pressurized oil?

Thanks
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:39 AM   #34
Barney145
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Without a doubt, the problem is the block was line honed after cutting the cases. Cannot be done, it must be line bored. Line honing has it's place but no way on a Subaru. The only time I line hone is on a new case that has ARP case bolts. Even then, you can't get a dead straight round mainline, it's just better than not honing it at all. I've lined bored over 100 Subarus, on both a traditional line boring machine and my CNC. It's a job that no machine shop should tackle without lots of experience and the right machinery.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:00 AM   #35
Crystal_Imprezav
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And lots of $$. So true on the line honing, you would think a better more evolved machine would have been developed my now, like how cylinder hones have evolved, but a line hone machine at the end of the day is still basically a giant oil squirting tank with a HD drill at the end of it.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:09 AM   #36
outfrontmotorsports
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OC_Nooby View Post
How important are dowel pin placement. When I had the machine shop cut the case halves and line hone he had placed the dowels in the wrong spot (both on top).

If this doesn't matter ill place them back to where he had them and test again.
that's no good, they must be in the right place to perform the line hone. it must be redone with pins in the right place
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