Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Friday March 29, 2024
Home Forums Images WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 12-05-2008, 02:39 PM   #1
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default Loud clacking noise on cold engine startup, need help! Video including with the sound

So for the past couple months everytime I start the car cold I hear a loud clacking noise that lasts about 1 second and then goes away, I don't hear it if I crank the engine while it is still warm. Then a couple days ago I randomly started getting a very strong aroma of fuel in the car that would also go away after about 1 minute. I don't know if the two are linked but I really need to figure these out and get them fixed.

Here is a video where you can clearly hear the clacking noise at startup. Any and all help is very appreciated!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUD3TyV6WUs
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

Last edited by deepsouthwrx; 12-05-2008 at 04:47 PM. Reason: s
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 12-05-2008, 04:47 PM   #2
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

anyone?
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 05:12 PM   #3
capitalj4
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 136309
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: canada
Vehicle:
2003 wrx
blue

Default

it sort of sounds like your timing belt tensioner. if you can pull off the back plastic timing cover and take a look at it. if it is super moist on top. you need to replace it.
capitalj4 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 05:21 PM   #4
legacy1907
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 94024
Join Date: Aug 2005
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:
05 WRX CGM
95 YJ Flat black

Default

man that sounded like a bit of rod knock to me right there when you first cranked it. If you rev it up a bit can you hear it again? early signs of rod knock tend to occur during start up and shut down. See if you can hear it while revving and if it is rev-dependent as far as the frequency goes
legacy1907 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 06:11 PM   #5
Wrx_Fan_0717
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 152080
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:
6266 Precision'd Big
Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye

Default

Yea it did.
Wrx_Fan_0717 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:06 PM   #6
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by legacy1907 View Post
man that sounded like a bit of rod knock to me right there when you first cranked it. If you rev it up a bit can you hear it again? early signs of rod knock tend to occur during start up and shut down. See if you can hear it while revving and if it is rev-dependent as far as the frequency goes
Its hard to hear over my exhaust, I need to get under there and rev it with me under it, but Im pretty sure I've only heard it at engine start up and not at shutdown.

If it is rod knock how bad is this
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:09 PM   #7
SUBYDOODIE
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 71490
Join Date: Sep 2004
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: LA/Hollywood
Vehicle:
05 cgm wrx
rubbing axles haha

Default

rod knock = ticking time bomb...

so better hope it's not
SUBYDOODIE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:13 PM   #8
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

I haven't touched the inside of the motor, 70k miles, mods are catless TBE with a dual stage MBC, set at 13.5lbs and 14.5lbs. Always run 93 octane, can't imagine what could cause this.
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:40 PM   #9
wrxdrvr
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 79222
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region: W. Canada
Location: Canada BC
Vehicle:
'09 STi 297.5 WHP
Blue

Default

If it's colder than before it could be oil not getting everywhere fast enough (maybe get lighter oil) and if it goes away I wouldn't worry about it. Subaru engines are way louder than any other engine I ever had...
wrxdrvr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:45 PM   #10
Dragon Wagon
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 101095
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: the wall
Vehicle:
1997 leggy gt
Reo Red

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepsouthwrx View Post
I haven't touched the inside of the motor, 70k miles, mods are catless TBE with a dual stage MBC, set at 13.5lbs and 14.5lbs. Always run 93 octane, can't imagine what could cause this.
#1 cause oilstarvation or boosting on high millage thinned out dirty oil
Dragon Wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 07:45 PM   #11
Newbuggy
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 152042
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Lynden, WA
Vehicle:
2002 WRX
WRB

Default

mine does the same exact thing... 70k bone stock. Older miatas do the same thing... a friend of mine said its the hydraulic lifters filling up after the oil has drained from them after sitting. My knock goes away within 5 seconds. Ive started to change my oil at 2500 and i watch the oil level. and if it has only sat a couple hours it wont do it.
Newbuggy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:01 PM   #12
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

oil gets changed every 3k on the dot, mobil 1 5w-30. I've never boosted more than 15lbs but maybe once when my MBC was out of whack and the instant it got that high i jumped off the gas and fixed it.
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:02 PM   #13
Uncle Scotty
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK buy Nates beans
westcoastroasting.com

Default

a failing/failed timing belt tensioner will sound ALMOST like rod knock, on a cold start
the sound usually goes away after the engine warms up

the one in my 02 died at ~50k miles....there seems to have been a weak batch of them on the 02 wrx's
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:05 PM   #14
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Newbuggy View Post
mine does the same exact thing... 70k bone stock. Older miatas do the same thing... a friend of mine said its the hydraulic lifters filling up after the oil has drained from them after sitting. My knock goes away within 5 seconds. Ive started to change my oil at 2500 and i watch the oil level. and if it has only sat a couple hours it wont do it.
If you watched the video can you tell if its the same sounding noise? Your post is the only one that didn't scare the hell out of me
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:05 PM   #15
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
a failing/failed timing belt tensioner will sound ALMOST like rod knock, on a cold start
the sound usually goes away after the engine warms up

the one in my 02 died at ~50k miles....there seems to have been a weak batch of them on the 02 wrx's
yeah your the second person to mention this so tomorow its getting checked. How much is a new one?
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:06 PM   #16
Uncle Scotty
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK buy Nates beans
westcoastroasting.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepsouthwrx View Post
oil gets changed every 3k on the dot, mobil 1 5w-30. I've never boosted more than 15lbs but maybe once when my MBC was out of whack and the instant it got that high i jumped off the gas and fixed it.
there is another problem

id rather use piss in my engine than 5w30 M1
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:12 PM   #17
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
there is another problem

id rather use piss in my engine than 5w30 M1
hmm what do you recommend, royal purp?
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:15 PM   #18
Uncle Scotty
*** Banned ***
 
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:
OK buy Nates beans
westcoastroasting.com

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepsouthwrx View Post
hmm what do you recommend, royal purp?


THAT is even WORSE than the M1

too many idiots fall for the marketing hype on oil without knowing what garbage it really is

I use 5w40 Rotella T or 10w40 Valvoline MaxLife syn blend for a bit less $$$

the Valvoline is ~$13/5qt jug at walmart
Uncle Scotty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:20 PM   #19
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post


THAT is even WORSE than the M1

too many idiots fall for the marketing hype on oil without knowing what garbage it really is

I use 5w40 Rotella T or 10w40 Valvoline MaxLife syn blend for a bit less $$$

the Valvoline is ~$13/5qt jug at walmart
Well im an idiot then, always thought mobil 1 was decent stuff
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:25 PM   #20
Wrx_Fan_0717
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 152080
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:
6266 Precision'd Big
Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye

Default

M1 and RP are garbage that shears to nothing. Good for gas mileage not so good in turbo engines with bearings prone to failure.

Get Rotella T Syn 5w-40 from Walmart and do you bearing a favor.
Wrx_Fan_0717 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:27 PM   #21
Audiosavvy
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 150794
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Bakersfield, CA
Vehicle:
Qcab dakota 4x4
LT1 Formula Firebird

Default

Nvm
Audiosavvy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:27 PM   #22
deepsouthwrx
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:
2002 MBP WRX

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrx_Fan_0717 View Post
M1 and RP are garbage that shears to nothing. Good for gas mileage not so good in turbo engines with bearings prone to failure.

Get Rotella T Syn 5w-40 from Walmart and do you bearing a favor.
Sounds like a plan, just hope I haven't screwed anything up by running the mobil for 30k miles already
deepsouthwrx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:33 PM   #23
Nick Boxler
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 180326
Join Date: May 2008
Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Golden, CO
Vehicle:
2001 2.5RSTi

Default

I think my engine makes some kind of noise on startup too, but sometimes i think i'm just being paranoid...
maybe i'll be doing some inspection myself this weekend.
Nick Boxler is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 08:40 PM   #24
Wrx_Fan_0717
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 152080
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:
6266 Precision'd Big
Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye

Default

Well let me get it right the shearing is mainly Royal P.
The main problem with M1 is in our motors the consumption is horrible. Consumption leads to oil starvation, starvation = spun bearings and various other problems.
What are you going through a quart or two in between changes?



If it were me, i would change it ASAP with some Rotella T. Get about 5oz of dirty oil (MID STREAM) in a CLEAN container.
Go to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ and get a free test kit sent to you.
(^^Do this now)

When the kit gets there fill their cup with your oil from your container. Then send it in with the fee. They'll tell you if there is any bearing or other parts that are going to fail from the chemical composition of the oil.

I get UOA (used oil analysis) every other oil change. I run up to a 6k mile interval with Rotella and according to Blackstone is just fine and dandy.
You Welcome.
Wrx_Fan_0717 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2008, 09:05 PM   #25
Dragon Wagon
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 101095
Join Date: Nov 2005
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: the wall
Vehicle:
1997 leggy gt
Reo Red

Default

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
hers a little more info of rotella I found on the Mustang forums enjoy
The zinc compound abbreiviated ZDDP, is an extreme pressure additive that helps keep flat tappet camshafts from wearing out.

About a year ago, all gasoline oils went from the old SL spec to the new "emissions" SM forumulation. This is the grade that is in the little circle on the back of the bottle.

Anyway, this was done because it was found that the anti-wear additives -could- cause problems with catalytic converters if the car burned a lot of oil. This mostly concerns cars with over 100k miles.

The new oils have a lower concentration of zinc and phosphorus compounds. Bad news on the Valvoline Racing Oil... It held onto the older SL rating for a while, but the latest stuff I saw at the store had the emissions SM rating. This was both the 20w50 and the straight 50.

Diesel oil has traditionally had more anti-wear compounds than gas oil. However, with the current low emission diesel engines that also use a form of a catalytic converter, their oil has also changed. The old pre-emissions oil had a CI-4 rating. The new stuff has a CJ-4 rating. The new rating wasn't done THAT long ago, and some CI-4 oil is still on the shelf. THIS is the stuff to use in flat tappet engines! CHECK THE RATING!

As for additives. EOS, and every other "street" oil supplement containing large amounts of zinc and phosphorus compound have been DISCONTINUED. General Motors EOS and the 4-cyl STP in the red bottle are now out of production. If you want these additives, you've got to turn to the race shops. Comp Cams sells a very popular additive. It's part number 159. Crane also offers their additive.

My advice is to stock up on CI-4 diesel oil while some of it is still out there. Some stores still have CI-4 oils. Shell Rotella 15w40 went to CJ-4, but the straight 30w is still CI-4. About a month ago, I saw Rotella CI-4 15w40 in 2.5 gallon jugs at Tractor Supply. If you have a flat tappet engine, use diesel oil, and try to use the CI-4 stuff.

As for affordable synthetic oil... All Mobil 1 has the current "emission friendly" SM rating EXCEPT their "High Mileage" oil. This still has the older SL rating. It is available in 10w30 and 10w40, and I just purchased some at Wal-Mart for $19.95 for the 5-quart jug.

Of course Royal Purple is crap a "take no prisoners" oil. If you truly want the worst, and don't mind spending the money, this is the stuff for you.

Below is a link that has a chart of different oils and their additive amounts.

Good Reading!
Dragon Wagon is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Noise on cold startup on 07. Anyone else have this issue? pinkertonpunk Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo) 23 02-11-2008 07:46 PM
Accessory noise, metallic "chirp" when blipping the throttle on cold engine? Davemeister Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo) 8 06-09-2006 03:06 AM
Engine Noise On Cold Start v0od0o Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 8 04-29-2006 11:27 AM
Weird on and off whining noise from the engine bay WITH THE CAR OFF. JM530 Car Audio, Video & Security 6 03-21-2006 08:29 AM
Turbo clanking noise on cold startup? enphorcerWRX Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) 3 11-12-2002 11:17 PM

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2024 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission
Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.