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12-05-2008, 02:39 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
Loud clacking noise on cold engine startup, need help! Video including with the sound
So for the past couple months everytime I start the car cold I hear a loud clacking noise that lasts about 1 second and then goes away, I don't hear it if I crank the engine while it is still warm. Then a couple days ago I randomly started getting a very strong aroma of fuel in the car that would also go away after about 1 minute. I don't know if the two are linked but I really need to figure these out and get them fixed.
Here is a video where you can clearly hear the clacking noise at startup. Any and all help is very appreciated! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUD3TyV6WUs
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Last edited by deepsouthwrx; 12-05-2008 at 04:47 PM. Reason: s |
12-05-2008, 04:47 PM | #2 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
anyone?
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12-05-2008, 05:12 PM | #3 |
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W. Canada
Location: canada
Vehicle:2003 wrx blue |
it sort of sounds like your timing belt tensioner. if you can pull off the back plastic timing cover and take a look at it. if it is super moist on top. you need to replace it.
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12-05-2008, 05:21 PM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
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South East
Location: Raleigh, NC
Vehicle:05 WRX CGM 95 YJ Flat black |
man that sounded like a bit of rod knock to me right there when you first cranked it. If you rev it up a bit can you hear it again? early signs of rod knock tend to occur during start up and shut down. See if you can hear it while revving and if it is rev-dependent as far as the frequency goes
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12-05-2008, 06:11 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
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Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:6266 Precision'd Big Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye |
Yea it did.
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12-05-2008, 07:06 PM | #6 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
Quote:
If it is rod knock how bad is this |
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12-05-2008, 07:09 PM | #7 |
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Vehicle:05 cgm wrx rubbing axles haha |
rod knock = ticking time bomb...
so better hope it's not |
12-05-2008, 07:13 PM | #8 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
I haven't touched the inside of the motor, 70k miles, mods are catless TBE with a dual stage MBC, set at 13.5lbs and 14.5lbs. Always run 93 octane, can't imagine what could cause this.
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12-05-2008, 07:40 PM | #9 |
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W. Canada
Location: Canada BC
Vehicle:'09 STi 297.5 WHP Blue |
If it's colder than before it could be oil not getting everywhere fast enough (maybe get lighter oil) and if it goes away I wouldn't worry about it. Subaru engines are way louder than any other engine I ever had...
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12-05-2008, 07:45 PM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
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Vehicle:1997 leggy gt Reo Red |
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12-05-2008, 07:45 PM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
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NWIC
Location: Lynden, WA
Vehicle:2002 WRX WRB |
mine does the same exact thing... 70k bone stock. Older miatas do the same thing... a friend of mine said its the hydraulic lifters filling up after the oil has drained from them after sitting. My knock goes away within 5 seconds. Ive started to change my oil at 2500 and i watch the oil level. and if it has only sat a couple hours it wont do it.
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12-05-2008, 08:01 PM | #12 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
oil gets changed every 3k on the dot, mobil 1 5w-30. I've never boosted more than 15lbs but maybe once when my MBC was out of whack and the instant it got that high i jumped off the gas and fixed it.
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12-05-2008, 08:02 PM | #13 |
*** Banned ***
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a failing/failed timing belt tensioner will sound ALMOST like rod knock, on a cold start
the sound usually goes away after the engine warms up the one in my 02 died at ~50k miles....there seems to have been a weak batch of them on the 02 wrx's |
12-05-2008, 08:05 PM | #14 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
Quote:
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12-05-2008, 08:05 PM | #15 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
yeah your the second person to mention this so tomorow its getting checked. How much is a new one?
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12-05-2008, 08:06 PM | #16 | |
*** Banned ***
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:OK buy Nates beans westcoastroasting.com |
Quote:
id rather use piss in my engine than 5w30 M1 |
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12-05-2008, 08:12 PM | #17 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
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12-05-2008, 08:15 PM | #18 |
*** Banned ***
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:OK buy Nates beans westcoastroasting.com |
THAT is even WORSE than the M1 too many idiots fall for the marketing hype on oil without knowing what garbage it really is I use 5w40 Rotella T or 10w40 Valvoline MaxLife syn blend for a bit less $$$ the Valvoline is ~$13/5qt jug at walmart |
12-05-2008, 08:20 PM | #19 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
Well im an idiot then, always thought mobil 1 was decent stuff
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12-05-2008, 08:25 PM | #20 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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South East
Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:6266 Precision'd Big Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye |
M1 and RP are garbage that shears to nothing. Good for gas mileage not so good in turbo engines with bearings prone to failure.
Get Rotella T Syn 5w-40 from Walmart and do you bearing a favor. |
12-05-2008, 08:27 PM | #21 |
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Nvm
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12-05-2008, 08:27 PM | #22 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 42474
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Clinton, MS
Vehicle:2002 MBP WRX |
Sounds like a plan, just hope I haven't screwed anything up by running the mobil for 30k miles already
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12-05-2008, 08:33 PM | #23 |
Scooby Newbie
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RMIC
Location: Golden, CO
Vehicle:2001 2.5RSTi |
I think my engine makes some kind of noise on startup too, but sometimes i think i'm just being paranoid...
maybe i'll be doing some inspection myself this weekend. |
12-05-2008, 08:40 PM | #24 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 152080
Join Date: Jun 2007
Chapter/Region:
South East
Location: Pensacola, FL
Vehicle:6266 Precision'd Big Cam'd 2.55l 6spd Bugeye |
Well let me get it right the shearing is mainly Royal P.
The main problem with M1 is in our motors the consumption is horrible. Consumption leads to oil starvation, starvation = spun bearings and various other problems. What are you going through a quart or two in between changes? If it were me, i would change it ASAP with some Rotella T. Get about 5oz of dirty oil (MID STREAM) in a CLEAN container. Go to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ and get a free test kit sent to you. (^^Do this now) When the kit gets there fill their cup with your oil from your container. Then send it in with the fee. They'll tell you if there is any bearing or other parts that are going to fail from the chemical composition of the oil. I get UOA (used oil analysis) every other oil change. I run up to a 6k mile interval with Rotella and according to Blackstone is just fine and dandy. You Welcome. |
12-05-2008, 09:05 PM | #25 |
Scooby Specialist
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Join Date: Nov 2005
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Vehicle:1997 leggy gt Reo Red |
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hers a little more info of rotella I found on the Mustang forums enjoy The zinc compound abbreiviated ZDDP, is an extreme pressure additive that helps keep flat tappet camshafts from wearing out. About a year ago, all gasoline oils went from the old SL spec to the new "emissions" SM forumulation. This is the grade that is in the little circle on the back of the bottle. Anyway, this was done because it was found that the anti-wear additives -could- cause problems with catalytic converters if the car burned a lot of oil. This mostly concerns cars with over 100k miles. The new oils have a lower concentration of zinc and phosphorus compounds. Bad news on the Valvoline Racing Oil... It held onto the older SL rating for a while, but the latest stuff I saw at the store had the emissions SM rating. This was both the 20w50 and the straight 50. Diesel oil has traditionally had more anti-wear compounds than gas oil. However, with the current low emission diesel engines that also use a form of a catalytic converter, their oil has also changed. The old pre-emissions oil had a CI-4 rating. The new stuff has a CJ-4 rating. The new rating wasn't done THAT long ago, and some CI-4 oil is still on the shelf. THIS is the stuff to use in flat tappet engines! CHECK THE RATING! As for additives. EOS, and every other "street" oil supplement containing large amounts of zinc and phosphorus compound have been DISCONTINUED. General Motors EOS and the 4-cyl STP in the red bottle are now out of production. If you want these additives, you've got to turn to the race shops. Comp Cams sells a very popular additive. It's part number 159. Crane also offers their additive. My advice is to stock up on CI-4 diesel oil while some of it is still out there. Some stores still have CI-4 oils. Shell Rotella 15w40 went to CJ-4, but the straight 30w is still CI-4. About a month ago, I saw Rotella CI-4 15w40 in 2.5 gallon jugs at Tractor Supply. If you have a flat tappet engine, use diesel oil, and try to use the CI-4 stuff. As for affordable synthetic oil... All Mobil 1 has the current "emission friendly" SM rating EXCEPT their "High Mileage" oil. This still has the older SL rating. It is available in 10w30 and 10w40, and I just purchased some at Wal-Mart for $19.95 for the 5-quart jug. Of course Royal Purple is crap a "take no prisoners" oil. If you truly want the worst, and don't mind spending the money, this is the stuff for you. Below is a link that has a chart of different oils and their additive amounts. Good Reading! |
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