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Old 04-27-2007, 04:26 PM   #51
jblaine
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Just an update, FWIW...

The problem is not solved. Phil is convinced the problem is with the harness connections. After performing his recommended fix attempt, I am not convinced of that.

This has happened twice in the last 2 months. It is SO RANDOM.

I truly don't believe this will ever be fixed, which blows since I intend to keep my beloved bugeye until it is falling apart at the seams.
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Old 04-28-2007, 11:26 AM   #52
Element Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jblaine View Post
Just an update, FWIW...

The problem is not solved. Phil is convinced the problem is with the harness connections. After performing his recommended fix attempt, I am not convinced of that.

This has happened twice in the last 2 months. It is SO RANDOM.

I truly don't believe this will ever be fixed, which blows since I intend to keep my beloved bugeye until it is falling apart at the seams.
That's because after I loaned you my harness my car started doing the same thing. LOL! I tweaked a couple of pins and it never happened again. Of course it could be total coincidence.

When dealing with electronics nothing is for certain however. It might be worth sending the Hydra and harness to Hydra EMS as they might be able to notice something on the test bench.

Why is it that you have all the problems? I think your bugeye might be cursed

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
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Old 04-28-2007, 12:00 PM   #53
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If you dig back into your brain Phil you will recall that I DID send it back to Hydra EMS NA for reflash and bench testing. Andrew ran it on the bench overnight according to him.

Page 2 of this thread.
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Old 04-29-2007, 10:23 PM   #54
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hey,,wat year your car?..i just ordered the hydra for my 2004 rs with turbo kit and sti shortblock..how do i kno if this will happen to my car? or is it a different situation?
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Old 04-29-2007, 11:18 PM   #55
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I highly doubt it will happen. This is a bizarre freak thing.
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Old 04-30-2007, 11:52 AM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VAUGHNB19 View Post
hey,,wat year your car?..i just ordered the hydra for my 2004 rs with turbo kit and sti shortblock..how do i kno if this will happen to my car? or is it a different situation?
No need to worry as this appears to only happen on his car or my car when I let him borrow the harness

Thanks,
Phil
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:16 PM   #57
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thats happened to me only once, sitting at a red light but have had no other issues since then.
Hopefully I have no issues with stalling again,with my Hydra.
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Old 05-21-2007, 10:25 PM   #58
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I bought one of the 1st Hydras & had a problem with it not picking up vehicle speed ... sent it back to Hydra to check out & reflash. They ended up just replacing the board to solve the speed problem. I had it back a little over a week later due to shipping across the country.
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Old 01-26-2008, 07:52 AM   #59
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Still fighting this, dammit.

Replaced crank and cam position sensors. No love.

50% chance it's Hydra related, 50% not.
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:00 PM   #60
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can you try another local Hydra in your vehicle or.. switich to a utec or stock ecu and see if the problem still occurs, this is what i do when i believe i have a hydra issue, switich to know good ones..
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Old 01-26-2008, 10:52 PM   #61
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Use Deoxit on the pins. Its expensive but might solve the issue.

C
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Old 01-27-2008, 06:23 PM   #62
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Ordered some DeOxit

I will probably try my OEM ECU as well, but that's more of a pain in the butt. I have no front O2 sensor installed, no evap emissions solenoid, would have to disconnect my WB02 sensor since it won't be powered and heated by the OEM ECU... etc.
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Old 02-13-2008, 07:41 PM   #63
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I had this same thing happen to me 4 times on a 2 hour drive home Saturday after picking my car up from the shop. They had the hydra in and out of the car, rearranged some vac lines, worked on the fuel system for other issues.

When I got home I found one of the ports on the intake manifold was open. I capped this off and haven't had any problems since. Granted thats only been 4 days.

Vac leak caused maybe? I know what you mean about the .3 second shut off while cruising at 75 on the freeway being freaky. I was in really congested traffic on a section of freeway with no shoulders through seattle....
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Old 02-14-2008, 01:00 PM   #64
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Worth a shot. I've been meaning to do an induction leak test anyway.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:06 PM   #65
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jblaine - did you ever get any further with this problem?

After my post in Feb the car would do it about once a month until about a week ago it started doing it every day and now it was twice today.... The only difference I notice is mine only does it while cruising and usually always on the freeway.

Obviously it's time to start trying to fix it - now I just need to figure out where to start.
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Old 05-27-2008, 04:27 PM   #66
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Zero progress. It still happens to me totally randomly. It's been a few weeks now since the last instance.

Sadly, I've pretty much just given up on ever figuring it out.
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Old 05-28-2008, 03:14 PM   #67
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I know these older units (nemesis 2.0) are out of warranty but the only things ever determined on the older Nemesis 2.0 to fail causing this symptom was the 5 volt rail due to it over heating. The reason the car dies is because the signal from the crank sensor is lost which is run off of the 5v rail. I know Hydra had mentioned pasting the heat sinks again or replacing the 5 volt rail (I'm not sure this part is still available since these units are a few years old now).

Since these are out of warranty you may want to try opening up the case and pulling the floor carpet back to see if it's heat related or maybe even using a PC fan. It seems so random and inconsistent that heat may be the culprit.

I know if the unit can't be fixed Hydra usually offers a huge discount towards the purchase of a newer unit. I know in Jeff's case they couldn't get the Hydra to act up on the test bench....go figure.

Thanks,
Phil
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Old 05-31-2008, 12:22 PM   #68
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Did you ever try replacing your ignition switch I got my money on that being the issue here. This happened to my civic all the time and sometimes when you would start it it would start then die out. sometime while driving also.

I got a issue with my older 2.17 box Seems to go into 2 step randomlyand my 2 step is unplugged because it doesn't seem to be working.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:51 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Element Tuning View Post
I know these older units (nemesis 2.0) are out of warranty but the only things ever determined on the older Nemesis 2.0 to fail causing this symptom was the 5 volt rail due to it over heating. The reason the car dies is because the signal from the crank sensor is lost which is run off of the 5v rail. I know Hydra had mentioned pasting the heat sinks again or replacing the 5 volt rail (I'm not sure this part is still available since these units are a few years old now).

Since these are out of warranty you may want to try opening up the case and pulling the floor carpet back to see if it's heat related or maybe even using a PC fan. It seems so random and inconsistent that heat may be the culprit.

I know if the unit can't be fixed Hydra usually offers a huge discount towards the purchase of a newer unit. I know in Jeff's case they couldn't get the Hydra to act up on the test bench....go figure.

Thanks,
Phil
www.elementtuning.com
A year and 5 months later, I reply!

This stopped for many months. And now is back again.

I've run many times with the carpet back. It doesn't seem to make any difference. Also, the electrical has gone out before (as described) after the car has been running only 1 minute -- back out of driveway, shift to 1st, drive 20ft, die.

I suppose anything is worth a shot Maybe I'll track down some thermal paste and open up the box.
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:53 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spoolinsti05 View Post
Did you ever try replacing your ignition switch I got my money on that being the issue here. This happened to my civic all the time and sometimes when you would start it it would start then die out. sometime while driving also.

I got a issue with my older 2.17 box Seems to go into 2 step randomlyand my 2 step is unplugged because it doesn't seem to be working.
I didn't replace the ignition switch because when I asked about it last year, the local dealership wanted a buttload of cash to do it. I'll dig into the service manuals and see if I can figure out what it might take to do the job.
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Old 11-11-2009, 03:28 PM   #71
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After grinding down a spare allen wrench to make a 'security'-head wrench, I took the ECU case apart.

It wasn't clear to me which was the 5V rail of the 2 rails. I cleaned then re-pasted the one that was loose enough to pull off easily (using OCZ Freeze). The other seemed very well pasted, so I left it alone.

ECU back in. Car runs still, so that's good.

We'll see....
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Old 11-11-2009, 05:06 PM   #72
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Good luck man. I can only imagine how frustrating that could be.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:07 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrxwhat View Post
Good luck man. I can only imagine how frustrating that could be.
Thanks.

It wasn't cutting out for a few days before I did the re-paste, and still isn't after the re-paste. As always, it's been very random, so only a long time will tell if it's truly solved.
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:14 PM   #74
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Three times since the last post. Once a month ago, and twice in the last 2 days.

I don't recall what the situation was a month ago, but the most recent 2:

* Cold start of engine, drove for 1 mile, failed at ~15mph after turning a corner

* Car driven hard for 10 minutes, failed at 60mph driving straight on an interstate

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Old 02-01-2010, 12:11 PM   #75
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You must have a failing 5 volt rail in there is all I can think of but the randomness of it is strange. Wishing it's going to fix itself isn't working so it might be time to retire it (since it's a few years old) and pay for an upgrade (new circuit board) since the box is long out of warranty.
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