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Brakes & Suspension Forum sponsored by The Tire Rack |
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02-04-2010, 09:59 PM | #76 | ||
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You can have oodles of droop travel and still ride the bumpstops (ie. like stock STi strut/spring combo) and wreak havok on suspension performance, or you can have less droop travel, with suitable dampers and motion ratio to suit the application that rarely ride the bumpstops at all (plus the many points in between). I'm just saying, ppl need to educate themselves a little more before throwing around the droop travel argument as the be all and end all of good suspension design. Leslie
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02-04-2010, 10:13 PM | #77 |
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I think you're missing the point of the thread. Cheap coilovers not only don't have enough droop, they don't have enough bump and they sure as hell aren't a suitable damper which they probably didn't even check motion ratio before developing.
Nobody is saying that droop travel is the end all be all, we're saying it's a component that needs to be taken into account and it IS an important factor. |
02-04-2010, 10:30 PM | #78 |
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Re: Cheap coilovers and droop
Haha so now you all got me thinking about my suspension setup. Is the suspension set up correctly for a DD/ weekend warrior? Besides the need for a stiffer front sway and group n hats.
06wrx Tokico struts Rce black springs "regular guy" Stock hats Rear saggy butt spacer 22rear sway stoutounts and kartboy endlinks (I know I need the front sway upgraded) So have Properly set my car up for appropriate suspension travel. Let's say the tokico damp is set to Front :5TFFF (turns from full Firm) Rear: 5.5TFFF Lots of good info in here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
02-04-2010, 10:32 PM | #79 |
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The stock hats are hurting the handling and feel of the car but other than that it's a decent setup. I'm not familiar with the Tokico settings so someone else would have to chime in on that.
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02-04-2010, 10:35 PM | #80 | |
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Re: Cheap coilovers and droop
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02-05-2010, 12:09 AM | #81 |
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Thanks for the help, I guess I have found good enough reasons to try non-Japanese suspension...
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02-05-2010, 08:47 AM | #82 | |
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02-05-2010, 04:26 PM | #83 |
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Alrighty, so this thread has made me interested enough to order some new KWs for my wagon. However, I have some questions about the differences of the Club Sport vs V3. Do any of the things we talked about here apply to those two models and is one better than the other since there is a massive price difference?
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02-05-2010, 04:46 PM | #84 |
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don't forget T2's as an option if you want to do KW based units.
The big difference between the Club Sports and the V3's are the CS use linear springs and different valving. Other than that they are pretty much the same. The T2's are V3's with linear springs and some custom valving spec'd by RCE. I've had mine for two years and love them. The TIC AST units are excellent as well, so don't rule them out either. |
02-05-2010, 08:20 PM | #85 |
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The KW V3's should be more than enough, the clubsports are geared towards more track use.
As Daishi said, there are also custom KW style coilovers and other options when you get into that price range. |
02-06-2010, 07:22 PM | #86 |
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I would think that too much droop would lead to a more sloppy suspension feel.
Also, I would also think how fast the suspension "droops" is more important than the maximum amount of droop when it is raised up. I've seen different cars with coilovers get jacked up, and some would droop at a faster rate than others. From how I see it, it makes sense that the faster it droops, the more useful it is to keep the tire on the road as you pass by a bump for a split second. This is how I see it, but feel free to englighten me; but I think there are a lot of factors being left out here in the discussion Last edited by vinxH; 02-06-2010 at 07:30 PM. |
02-06-2010, 10:27 PM | #87 |
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More droop isn't going to give you sloppy suspension feel. Ok...if you're doing 4x4 offroading levels of droop then maybe, but for our cars in a non rally configuration it's not an issue.
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02-07-2010, 01:17 AM | #88 | ||
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02-08-2010, 06:58 PM | #89 | |
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I hit the tracks quite often, but at over $3g, I'd rather buy other things... As I understand, the V3 doesn't come with top mounts, so you have to use your original mounts. Will other mounts like CUSCO fit? I ask since I have those already. I also noticed that the RCE units have helper springs from their web pics and different colored spring collars. So do the V3 not have helper springs and use a progressive spring instead? Are the collars different materials? What are the spring rates on the V3 for a 04+ WRX? |
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02-08-2010, 07:09 PM | #90 |
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yes, the v3s use a progressive rear. Places like robispec and rce use different spring rates and valving on them, which makes a big performance improvement
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02-08-2010, 07:40 PM | #91 |
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This. I would take T2's over V3's in a heartbeat. The difference in cost is minimal considering you get linear springs, better spring rates mated to a different valve setup that gives you a smoother ride.
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02-09-2010, 11:59 AM | #92 |
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I love all the theory passed around in this thread. There is compromise in everything. I wouldn't put a set of coil overs on my car if I still lived in NJ, but where I live now in VA, its not that much of an issue. If I am traveling on a road where I need that much droop travel available I am going to do one of two things, 1. drive a lot slower for the bumpy conditions or 2. Take the wife's Forester.
It always comes down to budget and compromise. The manufacturers know that and make a product that they feel best meets the customer's needs. I would argue why would anyone buy a coil over that doesn't have separate height adjustment? Obviously, some manufactures don't feel this is an important issue at that price point. All mods to our cars are done based on several issues and it is a personal choice, some of us make better choices than others and 'your' choice may not be right for me. Good discussion though...... |
02-09-2010, 12:12 PM | #93 |
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Very informative conversation here. What would be a good upgrade to my 09 wrx suspension that would reduce body roll and wheel gap but at the same time retaining the ability of the shocks/springs to do their job properly?
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02-09-2010, 12:29 PM | #94 |
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Because you don't need it. This is a method that the budget manufacturers use so that they can use the same damper for multiple applications. Then they put a positive spin on it and convince people it is a necessary feature. Look at pretty much any coilovers in the $1500+ range and they don't have dual height adjustability.
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02-09-2010, 12:49 PM | #95 | |
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02-09-2010, 12:53 PM | #96 |
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You don't. No, really, stay with me here.
If you're driving on the street, there's no reason to corner balance your car. it's just not necessary or beneficial. If you're driving your daily on the track, you STILL don't need to because all the crap you're doing to make it a daily is hurting your on track performance way worse than not being corner balanced. If you're making a dedicated race car which will really benefit from corner weighting, then you're going to need something better than the Cheap Crap Coilovers we're discussing here. |
02-09-2010, 01:00 PM | #97 |
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To go along with this though you still can corner weight your car with coilovers that don't offer "dual height adjustability" in the same fashion. You would use the lower spring perch to adjust the height to get the weights correct. A properly corner weighted subaru will never be the same heights on at all corners.
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02-09-2010, 01:07 PM | #98 |
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02-09-2010, 01:08 PM | #99 | ||
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02-09-2010, 01:09 PM | #100 |
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^^^ This is for reals. A friend purchased a set of the LongAcre scales and for fun, we balanced my car, all 4 corners are at different heights. I can't say I know if there was a difference in the car since I'm not a super advanced driver, but the hub to fender distances were definitely not the same afterward. 1/4 to 1/2 inch differences if I remember right.
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