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Old 05-23-2007, 12:11 AM   #1201
Spec V to Wagon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scoobydrew06 View Post
spec V...

We would need to know way more info about your suspension to know if they will fit, that is probably why no one replied. But most likely, you will need to roll your fenders, and if you go with a wider tire (that 17x8 is meant for a 235 or even 245) you will need some camber plates to avoid rubbing even with the fenders rolled.
Picked the wheels up tonight. No rubbing.

I have STI pink struts, Tein S-Techs, cobb front and rear sways.
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:21 PM   #1202
hey1
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Question on KYB suspension? How does the adjustment dial work? Suppose there are levels one to four. To get to each of those damping levels, one must point the dot (on the dial) to the desired number. The real question is, what happens if you turn past four going clockwise and hit one? Will the level be set at one or do your have to go counter clockwise to go back to one? Sorry for the KYB noobieness but I have yet to find info on the functionality of the dial.

Thanks,

Kevin.
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Old 05-25-2007, 06:35 PM   #1203
johnnyb
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Adjustability is 1-4. The dial on the top of the strut can be turned 360 and it works on the desired setting. Does not matter if you go all the way around.
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Old 05-25-2007, 07:18 PM   #1204
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Got my car aligned with the Konis and the RCE lowering plates. Also have the stock front camber bolt and a rear camber bolt.

Front- R L
Camber -1.9 -1.9
Caster 4.4 4.6
Toe 0 0

Rear R L
Camber -2.0 -2.0
Toe 0 0

I was surprised at the the "small" amount of camber in the fronts we were able to get. This is with the plates as configured a few posts back. I know I am sacrificing caster for camber, but is this what I should be doing? Or if I'm only getting -1.9 camber up front (and the RA1's like more camber) should I switch to the all camber mode.

Post with pics: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1183
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:20 PM   #1205
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Old 05-25-2007, 10:16 PM   #1206
BIGSKYWRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wobbletop View Post
Got my car aligned with the Konis and the RCE lowering plates. Also have the stock front camber bolt and a rear camber bolt.

Front- R L
Camber -1.9 -1.9
Caster 4.4 4.6
Toe 0 0

Rear R L
Camber -2.0 -2.0
Toe 0 0

I was surprised at the the "small" amount of camber in the fronts we were able to get. This is with the plates as configured a few posts back. I know I am sacrificing caster for camber, but is this what I should be doing? Or if I'm only getting -1.9 camber up front (and the RA1's like more camber) should I switch to the all camber mode.

Post with pics: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...postcount=1183
Those are very close to the #'s I'm getting w/ the RCE plates canted- I'm getting a few tenths more neg camber, almost the exact same caster.

I'd give it go w/ those settings, if you find you need more camber you can always swap the plates back to camber only.

^ I'll cast my "vote"
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Old 06-01-2007, 02:29 AM   #1207
pinkrobe
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After much ado, I finally got my KYB AGX struts and Tein H-tech springs installed. I don't have any pics of the install, but there wasn't much to see. The car definitely sits lower - I'm going to need a low-profile jack for sure. I took it out for a spin with all 4 struts set to 1. It was pretty mellow, not nearly as "sharp" as stock. The only bad part is the stiffness when going over road cracks at very slow speed [walking pace], but the OEM strut/spring wasn't much better. I found that the faster I went, the smoother things got. I'll get an alignment done after things get settled.

2002 Wagon
KYB AGX struts
Tein H-tech springs [225/194]
'04 rear tophats
Perrin adjustable rear sway bar and HD mounts
Perrin front and rear endlinks
Pirelli P Zero Nero 225/45 - 17
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Old 06-01-2007, 11:18 PM   #1208
codger
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Finally got around to installing my V7 SPT wagon kit. It had sat around in the basement for over a year, since coming off my old car. Tomorrow the 20mm RSB and whiteline endlinks go in. Rear STB also. A year keeping it stock is long enough.
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Old 06-02-2007, 12:50 AM   #1209
pinkrobe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codger View Post
Finally got around to installing my V7 SPT wagon kit. It had sat around in the basement for over a year, since coming off my old car. Tomorrow the 20mm RSB and whiteline endlinks go in. Rear STB also. A year keeping it stock is long enough.
LOL! You're worse than me!
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Old 06-02-2007, 01:44 AM   #1210
hey1
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What would a strong front sway bar do? All I know is that a beefy rear can limit the understeer and depending on how beefy it is, it could cause major over steer.
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Old 06-02-2007, 02:18 AM   #1211
uathatis
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strong front swaybar helps keep the negative camber curve.. and helps greatly with turn in, reducing bodyroll and stiffening up the front

Its kinda hard to describe though... i just put one on .. and its really strange going from a 24 adj rear bar to adding a front 22 adj bar with endlinks.
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Old 06-03-2007, 07:23 AM   #1212
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Prodrive springs
Whiteline 22mm adjustable front swaybar
Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear swaybar
Whiteline front and rear HD endlinks
Whiteline HD rear swybar mounts
Whiteline front upper tie bar
Whiteline rear upper tie bar w/quick release
17 x 7.5 Rota G-Force in flat black
222/45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3
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Old 07-07-2007, 09:38 PM   #1213
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-Hotchkis street bar set-up, F/R (2004 9-2x package which as I understand is that same for the 04' wrx wagon).
-Whiteline heavy endlinks F/R.

Love the turn-in now. Only I am getting a pop from the front, both side, when the wheel is turned more than once. I torqued everything well, but while on ramps, so tomorrow I am going to noise under, loosen everything and re-torque while it is one the ground. Hopefully this will solve the issue.
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Old 07-08-2007, 03:19 PM   #1214
Arnie
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did you make sure everything is properly greased (endlinks included)?
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Old 07-08-2007, 04:23 PM   #1215
tazswing
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnie View Post
did you make sure everything is properly greased (endlinks included)?
This is so embarrassing but I will post it anyways. So, being that I think Whiteline makes a better product than I make an install person I rechecked my work on ramps before doing anything else. Bingo. In the course of pre-stacking washers to go on the links, one never made it on the outside of the upper part of the right side link (two made it on the inside). For those who know the set-up that is the worst washer to leave out b/c the nut then pulls straight in on the bushing. I am very lucky that the bushing is not destroyed and that I could still get enough grip on the protruding part of the nut to back out the bolt.

It is now installed the way it should be and guess what? No noise what so ever. "Always check your work before you torque, son."
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:16 AM   #1216
wawawawagon
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Crystal Gray Metallic

Default 2006 WRX Wagon Setup

Tokico D-Specs
Swift Wagon-Specific Springs
STI Group N Tops
Paranoid Fabrications Fender Braces
Whiteline 22mm Fixed Front Sway Bar
Whiteline 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Whiteline Alloy Endlinks F/R
Whiteline Comfort ALK
Whiteline Quick-Release Rear Strut Bar
Whiteline Rear Subframe Lockout Bolts
Whiteline Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings (OK not suspension, but sort of handling related)
Still running stocker wheels/tires FTL

I only installed the struts/springs/tops a couple weeks ago, so not aligned yet. Garage Tuning had to drill out the front strut mounts to make them fit since I am not using camber plates, nor do I have sedan control arms. Even without the alignment, this setup rocks for daily driver use. It is very firm and controlled, yet soaks up bumps and dips better than stock. I do not plan to do anything else further than alignment, wheels and rubber.

Ride height "appears" to be a bit higher in front than rear. I considered using the RCE lowering camber plates, but I have been told by several experts that ride height on a wagon should NOT look even. The front wheel wells are bigger. So, an "even" drop will not appear to be even. I love the way it handles, so I will trust my advisors and not mess with it.

Last edited by wawawawagon; 07-10-2007 at 09:55 AM. Reason: Forgot to mention the endlinks
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:27 AM   #1217
TurbojonLS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawawawagon View Post
Ride height "appears" to be a bit higher in front than rear. I considered using the RCE lowering camber plates, but I have been told by several experts that ride height on a wagon should NOT look even. The front wheel wells are bigger. So, an "even" drop will not appear to be even. I love the way it handles, so I will trust my advisors and not mess with it.
Its not just the wagons that look "uneven", its all the Imprezas. The real benefits of the RCE camber plates is the better handling you can get from the more aggressive alignment, not the asthetic reasons. Since you already slotted your struts, you should be able to get a reasonable camber value, even though you're running sedan parts.
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:41 AM   #1218
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While I'm in here, I realized I haven't posted my latest setup.

KYB GR2s
RCE Camber Plates (normal installation)
USDM STi springs
Cusco 22mm front sway bar with Noltec endlinks
Whiteline 20mm rear sway bar with Kartboy endlinks
Whiteline rear strut brace with quick release skewers
TiC Fender Braces
Whiteline comfort ALK

Alignment is -2.3* F/-1.3* R Camber, with Zero toe. I don't remember my Caster.

This setup will remain unchanged until Sunday, when I'm swapping for a set of Konis. During install time I'm considering canting the camber plates, but haven't decided yet. I'm happy with the current alignment, so I don't know that I will, but its an idea that I've been kicking around for a while.
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Old 07-10-2007, 04:35 AM   #1219
uathatis
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TurboJon Are you happy with the dampening you get with the gr-2s? (lack of adjustabiltiy aside)
And what kind of difference did you feel if any with adding the rear strut brace?

hm not sure if i've updated my setup in a while so i'll add that while i post..

STi pink springs wagon
22 adj fsb on stiffest/WL with noltec gc links
(highly recomend these endlinks also they are only 69 shipped from oakos.)24 adj rsb WL on middle with whitelineHD endlinks
1.7ishF/.9ishR camber with 0 toe ( i hope!)
asx tires on stock rims

Future developments(ihope)
either kumho spt/gforce sport or nero m+S 225/50 on the 6 spoke rs wheels
and a quick release rear strut brace (maybe someones takeoff ebay front)


Setup Thoughts: wow those endlinks made a big difference in how much that rear bar had an effect on the car.. i just upped my fsb setting because my rear tires chirped a little on low speed parking lot turns 90* etc. I like the added control of the front (which used to be a bit... slow/sloppy in response), this came when i added on the fsb and endlinks together so i can't tell you which made the difference or both probably)

its kind of funny to go from the stock setup to one where your embarassed of the rear tire chirp turning into the bank parking lot...

To a n00b drive like me the swaybars+ endlinks all around definetly make the entire car feel more solid ( i guess the antiroll..)

Last edited by uathatis; 07-10-2007 at 04:41 AM.
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:54 AM   #1220
AlexGeez
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawawawagon View Post
Tokico D-Specs
Swift Wagon-Specific Springs
STI Group N Tops
Paranoid Fabrications Fender Braces
Whiteline 22mm Fixed Front Sway Bar
Whiteline 22mm Adjustable Rear Sway Bar
Whiteline Alloy Endlinks F/R
Whiteline Comfort ALK
Whiteline Quick-Release Rear Strut Bar
Whiteline Rear Subframe Lockout Bolts
Whiteline Rear Camber Bolts
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings (OK not suspension, but sort of handling related)
Still running stocker wheels/tires FTL

I only installed the struts/springs/tops a couple weeks ago, so not aligned yet. Garage Tuning had to drill out the front strut mounts to make them fit since I am not using camber plates, nor do I have sedan control arms. Even without the alignment, this setup rocks for daily driver use. It is very firm and controlled, yet soaks up bumps and dips better than stock. I do not plan to do anything else further than alignment, wheels and rubber.

Ride height "appears" to be a bit higher in front than rear. I considered using the RCE lowering camber plates, but I have been told by several experts that ride height on a wagon should NOT look even. The front wheel wells are bigger. So, an "even" drop will not appear to be even. I love the way it handles, so I will trust my advisors and not mess with it.
Why would the strut mounts not fit? I am running D-Specs, Crucials, and Group-n's and had no fitment issues...maybe I am a bit of a n00b with this but can someone fill me in here? Is this to get more camber somehow?
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:36 PM   #1221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlexGeez View Post
Why would the strut mounts not fit? I am running D-Specs, Crucials, and Group-n's and had no fitment issues...maybe I am a bit of a n00b with this but can someone fill me in here? Is this to get more camber somehow?
You got it - its to get the correct amounts of camber. The D-Specs are sedan specific, so when used on a wagon you lose some of the negative camber ability you have when using sedan struts.
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:42 PM   #1222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurbojonLS View Post
You got it - its to get the correct amounts of camber. The D-Specs are sedan specific, so when used on a wagon you lose some of the negative camber ability you have when using sedan struts.
Cool that's what I figured...could you elaborate on how the drilling of the top mounts is done? I searched but found nothing, it's probably deep in this thread somewhere.
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:45 PM   #1223
uathatis
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I have heard of specific cases where the dspecs did not lose a large amount of negative camber on the wagon....



I mean i'm not sure WHY but it seems to keep around the same range give or take.

wawawagon keep us updated on your alignment
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:53 PM   #1224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uathatis View Post
I have heard of specific cases where the dspecs did not lose a large amount of negative camber on the wagon....



I mean i'm not sure WHY but it seems to keep around the same range give or take.

wawawagon keep us updated on your alignment
Well, just from eyeballing it it looks like it has lost some negative camber from the stock wagon struts. The stock front camber bolt is at full negative and the wheels look almost perfectly straight...definitely different than before. I will probably have to double bolt the front. As for the rears, they don't seem as bad.

I'm getting my alignment next Thursday and I'm curious to what will come out of it!
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:08 PM   #1225
TurbojonLS
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Originally Posted by AlexGeez View Post
Cool that's what I figured...could you elaborate on how the drilling of the top mounts is done? I searched but found nothing, it's probably deep in this thread somewhere.
You don't drill the top mounts, you elongate the mounting holes in the struts. Make the upper hole more ovalized towards the car, and you can tilt the hub into the car, gaining (losing) negative camber.
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