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Old 08-01-2013, 04:52 PM   #6201
Rizzo314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satrya View Post
^
Although, if at all possible, I suggest staying away from wiring harnesses that do not separate the signal and power circuits via a relay. I'm not a big fan of power wiring passing through the firewall.
Signal or power, they both carry 12v. So, either way, you're still passing power through the firewall.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:19 PM   #6202
satrya
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rizzo314 View Post
Signal or power, they both carry 12v. So, either way, you're still passing power through the firewall.
If it were a high voltage line, then, yes, I'd worry about it either way. But for 12V, I'd rather have less current pass through the firewall.
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Old 08-01-2013, 07:26 PM   #6203
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Not the greatest quality, but it is installed and fully functional!

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Old 08-01-2013, 08:50 PM   #6204
aerosaaber
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Kartracer3 you need to give us (me) a shot of the output and a link to where you purchased plz!

nvm, I would it in your previous post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321154519972...S:3160&vxp=mtr
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Old 08-01-2013, 08:57 PM   #6205
RavensFan7
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.
Quote:
Originally Posted by aerosaaber View Post
Kartracer3 you need to give us a shot of the output
This!
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:21 PM   #6206
KartRacer3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aerosaaber View Post
Kartracer3 you need to give us (me) a shot of the output and a link to where you purchased plz!

nvm, I would it in your previous post

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321154519972...S:3160&vxp=mtr
I would def recommend it over the RI bar.
Cost per lumen:
Totron= 10,800 lumens, $282.50 is ~$.03/lumen
RI = 12,600 lumens, $1000 is ~$.08/lumen

Quote:
Originally Posted by RavensFan7 View Post
This!
haha thanks. TBH, I could literally drive without my retrofitted headlights (morimoto min d2s w/ bi-xenon's) and just have the lightbar turned on while driving on a pitch black mountain road and be perfectly fine!
It is the combo light so it has both the flood and spotlight effect.
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Old 08-01-2013, 09:45 PM   #6207
aerosaaber
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KartRacer3 View Post
haha thanks. TBH, I could literally drive without my retrofitted headlights (morimoto min d2s w/ bi-xenon's) and just have the lightbar turned on while driving on a pitch black mountain road and be perfectly fine!
It is the combo light so it has both the flood and spotlight effect.
WE DON'T BELIEVE YOU. Therefore you MUST PROVE IT!!!
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:42 PM   #6208
KartRacer3
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Originally Posted by aerosaaber View Post
WE DON'T BELIEVE YOU. Therefore you MUST PROVE IT!!!
Oh I will haha. Once I borrow my friends
DSLR camera I definitely will!
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Old 08-02-2013, 01:02 AM   #6209
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I have 3 knock off 10w lamps (similar to vision x solo's)...one for who knows what...2 will be dumbed down and redded out for tail lamps on my moto and each puts out and insane amount of light for what they are. Can't speak to longevity just yet....but for occasional use.....I don't have any reservations to knock off lamps just yet (having a few RI's as reference).....ESPECIALLY for the price
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Old 08-04-2013, 04:59 PM   #6210
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Hey guys- fantastic info on this thread! It has been very interesting to read (I'll admit, I skipped a few pages...). I am in the process of installing aux driving lights on my 2011 WRX. I like the idea of the new LED light bars, but I am older school (or is that just O-L-D, working events in the Group B days?), so I am installing Hella 500 Black Magics. I have made an aluminum template of my unobtrusive mounting bracket, and am cad'ing the resultant dimensions to get a heavier gauge one fabricated. I will post details when finished. Interestingly, if I ever need MORE light, the mount will allow a LED light bar to be very easily added! Dumb luck counts for something, I guess.

To date, I have spent the most time thinking about the lamp mounting, although I am now turning to the electrical side of things. Rather than cutting into the dash (which would have been on the bezel above the interior lamp dimmer & mirror switches), I currently plan to use a surface mount switch, thinking either the Hella HL80558 or PIAA 30034. Does anyone have experience using either of these (durability, quality, longevity)?

Also, since I will be running the switch signal through the firewall to the relay under the hood, any suggestions on optimal/simple routing paths to get there?

Thanks for the help, and I'll let you know how things develop (with pics!).
J
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:30 PM   #6211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBye View Post
To date, I have spent the most time thinking about the lamp mounting, although I am now turning to the electrical side of things. Rather than cutting into the dash (which would have been on the bezel above the interior lamp dimmer & mirror switches), I currently plan to use a surface mount switch, thinking either the Hella HL80558 or PIAA 30034. Does anyone have experience using either of these (durability, quality, longevity)?
Do you have an open slot in your dash where you could use a factory fog light switch? That's the plan for all of my lights.
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Old 08-04-2013, 07:55 PM   #6212
WaveBye
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Agreed, but I already have factory fogs. The only 2 spare switch "slots" I could find were the mirror fold pushbutton location, or the HID aim knob blank.

Call me chicken, but I am not willing to tear into the wiring like I have on previous cars (eg, a multiposition switch determines which/which-combo of lights when I use the factory high-beam lever).
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:07 PM   #6213
Rizzo314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBye View Post
Agreed, but I already have factory fogs. The only 2 spare switch "slots" I could find were the mirror fold pushbutton location, or the HID aim knob blank.

Call me chicken, but I am not willing to tear into the wiring like I have on previous cars (eg, a multiposition switch determines which/which-combo of lights when I use the factory high-beam lever).
I didn't say use your fog light switch, just use a factory fog light switch. You wouldn't need to tear into any wiring either as you would more than likely need to run new wiring for everything anyways.

The least obtrusive way to make your stuff not look out of place is to use factory switches, and it is the most easily reversed.
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Old 08-04-2013, 08:15 PM   #6214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaveBye View Post
Agreed, but I already have factory fogs. The only 2 spare switch "slots" I could find were the mirror fold pushbutton location, or the HID aim knob blank. Call me chicken, but I am not willing to tear into the wiring like I have on previous cars (eg, a multiposition switch determines which/which-combo of lights when I use the factory high-beam lever).
The only place I could find on my '08 that I was willing to put a switch was on the fuse box cover panel. It's small, out of the way but still easily accessible while driving.

BTW, I'm looking for another pair of lights, and idea of some good (and cheap) lights? I have a set of Hella 500FF lights already so I want something that compliments them nicely.
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Old 08-07-2013, 11:35 PM   #6215
subarutuner247
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i need help with hella lights. i want to know if i can run two hella 500 fog lights and two 700ff lights both are running 55watt bulbs. i have a 98 impreza thats all stock and ive tried researching things but no one has a good solid answer cause i want to know if it would crap out my alternator
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:12 AM   #6216
Skemcin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subarutuner247 View Post
i need help with hella lights. i want to know if i can run two hella 500 fog lights and two 700ff lights both are running 55watt bulbs. i have a 98 impreza thats all stock and ive tried researching things but no one has a good solid answer cause i want to know if it would crap out my alternator
You're fine. Its a common misconception that you're alternator would go bad, its actually your battery that you would worry about before your alternator. So that's what I would look at replacing, if anything, after your install - get a good deep cell battery and you'll be fine.
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:01 AM   #6217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skemcin View Post
You're fine. Its a common misconception that you're alternator would go bad, its actually your battery that you would worry about before your alternator. So that's what I would look at replacing, if anything, after your install - get a good deep cell battery and you'll be fine.
okay thanks that helps alot and i was thinking about putting a red top optima battery in my car when the one i have in there now goes bad
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:18 AM   #6218
Superorb
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Or just get some lights that draw less power like LEDs or HID retro headlights. Though, the headlights will only save you 40watts for the pair. LED lights would save a lot more.
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:00 AM   #6219
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+1 for aftermarket hids if the bilbs fit. Get the 4500k 55w and be amazed at the output. I have a set of rallye 4000's with 35w and the upgrade was totally worth it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:09 AM   #6220
Sellars21
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Installed the Led light bar yesterday. eBay 24" 10,000+ lumens.







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Old 08-08-2013, 09:50 AM   #6221
gregroot198521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sellars21 View Post
Installed the Led light bar yesterday. eBay 24" 10,000+ lumens.
Doesn't look bad, but in for some output pics at night before I develop any real opinion.
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Old 08-08-2013, 10:24 AM   #6222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregroot198521

Doesn't look bad, but in for some output pics at night before I develop any real opinion.
I'll snap something tonight,
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:29 PM   #6223
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I'm sure it'll be decent.....they all from china
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Old 08-09-2013, 08:30 AM   #6224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02boxer View Post
I'm sure it'll be decent.....they all from china
Um, no. Rigid Industries is an American company that designs, engineers and makes their lights in America.
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Old 08-09-2013, 09:47 AM   #6225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregroot198521

Um, no. Rigid Industries is an American company that designs, engineers and makes their lights in America.
With an American sized price tag too.
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