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12-10-2009, 10:45 PM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
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NESIC
Vehicle:2005 WRX STI CGM |
200 Whp
So I was playing with Dynolicious and I could only seem to turn up with 200 WHP in my stock sti. This seems a bit low to me... is it? 33% drivetrain loss? Flat ground, 3rd gear pull, air temperature about 2ºc.
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12-10-2009, 10:52 PM | #2 |
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did you try a 4th gear?
if you want to get a hp number and not goto a dyno, do a log and airboy it |
12-10-2009, 10:58 PM | #3 |
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Yea, people have proven that program to be very inaccurate.
EDIT: OK did some research...seems like it can be accurate in some instances. I've seen several posts like yours though, where someone got 180hp for an STi, or 350hp for a civic...? Last edited by CKxx; 12-10-2009 at 11:25 PM. |
12-10-2009, 11:02 PM | #4 |
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how much is usually lost in our cars? like 20%
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12-11-2009, 02:52 AM | #5 |
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Yeah but the amount lost only increases as the engine revs out. There's a rule of thumb number, but it's not totally accurate.
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12-11-2009, 07:19 AM | #6 |
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Hmm, it actually may not be all that off. A stock STi on a dynodynamics or mustnage with no correction is usually right at the 200whp mark.
My Ecutek told me my stg 2 sti made 144whp, while airboy told me 320, hahah Just another reiteration of dyno's or dyno software being a tool and a tool only. |
12-11-2009, 06:03 PM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
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See, this is something I just can't understand. Power output is one of the simplest things to measure accurately. All you need to know is force and speed, or torque and angular momentum. There is really no excuse for any dyno to be unaccurate.
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12-11-2009, 08:10 PM | #8 |
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Who's to say what's accurate? There is no empirical evidence of ANY rating, high or low, being 'right', so how can different readings be closer to or further from the 'truth'?
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12-11-2009, 08:35 PM | #9 |
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i believe we lose 22% through the drive train. so a stock sti should be around 230 to the wheels. although im not sure if the 22% is for a wrx specifically and the 6 speed is different or if both are 22.
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12-11-2009, 11:04 PM | #10 | |
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Quote:
you wish it was that simple! if you really think there are only 4 factors youre dreamin! |
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12-12-2009, 02:57 AM | #11 |
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with dynolicious you gotta make sure its held very still and that you only go in a straight line.
also, you have to go from a stop, not from a roll.................... |
12-12-2009, 05:39 PM | #12 |
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Vehicle:Your BOV sounds lame 93 RX7+09 Forester |
I went an bought this program, and paid to have my car weighed with me in it. So far I have tested it from a roll, but based on that my conclusion is that it isn't very accurate...
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12-12-2009, 09:14 PM | #13 |
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thats because its only suppose to go from a stand still. face palm
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12-12-2009, 10:28 PM | #14 |
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Dyno's will never compair apples to apples. Just look at all the different kinds of dyno's, and how each of them calculate torque. It's not that hard to realize they won't read the same.
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12-13-2009, 12:30 AM | #15 | |
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Quote:
If it I have to run a "1/4 mile" every time, then it is useless. First, I don't have any place that long and flat that isn't an actual 1/4 mile track, and second I'm not trying to go 125+ on Rt1. |
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12-13-2009, 02:09 AM | #16 |
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k well..
1. at home on a nice even surface such as a table calibrate it in the settings menu. 2. set up your car, weight, etc 3. put somewhere in your car FLAT and facing directly forward ( i use center console ) place it on one of those pads that are for putting cell phones on your dash so it doesnt move at all 4. from a stand still press start when it says go it is ready and will start whenever you go you do have to start from a stand still every time so it can tell when you start moving. every run is recording 1/4 of a mile, you may stop before a quarter mile if you would like and it will still give you the results. what i have found is that if its calibrated very well that it will be about + or - .3 on the times section.. and horsepower i couldnt really tell you. all depends on how much drivetrain loss you have configured in and different dynos read different etc etc etc. |
12-13-2009, 02:56 AM | #17 | |
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Vehicle:Your BOV sounds lame 93 RX7+09 Forester |
Quote:
I'm not too worried about 1/4 times. I want to be able to compare as I turn up the boost. |
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12-13-2009, 11:15 AM | #18 |
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idk how much i would trust it for something like that. do a couple runs before you turn up your boost and see how much the power level fluctuates.
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12-14-2009, 06:47 PM | #19 |
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Eh a stock 04-07 STi makes between 210 and 220 wheel HP on our Dyno Dynamics machine.
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12-17-2009, 11:27 AM | #20 | |
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For WHP it says to use 0% drivetrain loss.
I use mine in an iPhone holder standing straight up. It has been pretty accurate in the past for my bone stock 240sx (said 130whp) and my friends 2000 Prelude SH (176whp) Quote:
Last edited by SMP; 12-17-2009 at 11:38 AM. |
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04-07-2010, 03:50 PM | #21 | |
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Quote:
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04-07-2010, 04:12 PM | #22 |
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dynolicious has been fairly accurate for me as far as 1/4 mile goes. In my accord, it said 15.0@95 and I ran 15.0@96 at the track
in my suby, it said 13.4@103 and I ran 13.2@102 at the track. said 231hp though... |
04-07-2010, 05:46 PM | #23 |
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It does seem to be pretty accurate, however I've seen it be very inaccurate. My friend's phone told him he made 544whp in his mostly stock Thunderbird SC
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04-07-2010, 08:24 PM | #24 |
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04-07-2010, 11:25 PM | #25 |
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I love the smashing of airboy's spreadsheet. No one thought to blame the users...
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