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Old 01-15-2008, 11:38 AM   #1
smurfwrx
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Hey guys, haven't found any precise threads on this. My question is... I have an 02 WRX and want the following:

- evoIII 16g
- huge turboxs TMIC (staying top-mount for now)
- walbro fuel pump
- pe650 injectors
- water/alch injection

Can I run this on stock internals? Any of you that a similiar set-up or larger on stock internals? Is this safe with a good tune or is this pushing it? Please, don't tell me about how the power will be hard on my tranny.... PPG's sucka!
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:46 AM   #2
Boostinwagon
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Here is my setup on stock internals:
FP EvoIII 16G
Hyperflow TMIC
255/lph Walbro
Deatchworks 650's
Catless header/uppipe
3in Turboback
Open source tune

This with a good tune should put you between 300-320 and that is kinda safe for stock internals. Just be carefull thats all. Good luck and expect to spend alotta money.
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Old 01-17-2008, 09:43 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Boostinwagon View Post
Here is my setup on stock internals:
FP EvoIII 16G
Hyperflow TMIC
255/lph Walbro
Deatchworks 650's
Catless header/uppipe
3in Turboback
Open source tune

This with a good tune should put you between 300-320 and that is kinda safe for stock internals. Just be carefull thats all. Good luck and expect to spend alotta money.
Im guessing that getting 300-320whp is on your wish side, right?! Especially for an Evo 16g...
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:47 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by AlboWRX View Post
Im guessing that getting 300-320whp is on your wish side, right?! Especially for an Evo 16g...
RIGHT-O! That's what I'm looking for. I really just want to break 300. I know it COULD be tuned agressively to hit ~350 but if you've been reading this whole thread, I need it tuned conservatively for a DD so if hit 320whp, I will be one seriously happy camper!

** Another question here maybe someone can help me with.... Am I going to need wideband o2 sensor for this???? Wasn't aware of that but seems like I've seen it come up. Anyone know what the deal is with that?

EDIT: Oh, wait.... you were talking to boostinwagon, weren't you? My bad.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:26 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by smurfwrx View Post
** Another question here maybe someone can help me with.... Am I going to need wideband o2 sensor for this???? Wasn't aware of that but seems like I've seen it come up. Anyone know what the deal is with that?
You're going to get some differing opinion in this regard. If your tuner is REALLY good, and you REALLY trust his work, you could get away with nothing but a boost gauge. My tuner told me I needed nothing more for a stage two protune, and unless the car undergoes some mechanical change, I will be fine. Of course... that "some mechanical change" term is pretty broad, and could encompass a lot of issues. I'm sure the tuner knows what he is talking about, but I'm too paranoid to be comfortable with nothing more than a boost gauge.

Once you move into some of the more advanced bolt ons and tunes, many will argue that you need a good EGT gauge. If a car is running lean, it will probably show up as increased EGT temperatures. HOPEFULLY this gauge will give you enough warning to let you know if you should back off and get the car checked out. With the mods you have planned, I would at least get one of these.

The wideband is something that is an absolute necessity if you plan to do your own tuning. If you are not doing the tuning on your own, it's probably not that necessary.... but it does let you catch problems as they happen, as apposed to an EGT gauge which relies on reading the accumulated heat created by another problem. Some people run them all the time, but my own tuner said he only uses his when he is remapping a car. I've heard similar word from a few other people who are pretty good at tuning.

I may have some misinformation here, but I researched this quite a bit, and the above info is what I gathered from my reading. Anyone feel free to chime in and correct me if I've misinterpreted something.
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Old 01-17-2008, 11:37 AM   #6
Jstyles21
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Mod List:
FPEVOIII16g Turbo
DW 650's
SSAC FMIC
Walabro Fuel Pump
Denso Plugs
K&N Typhoon
Cobb AC
Greddy SP2 Exhaust
Helix DP (Catless)
Turbo XS UP

A HUGE thanks to Chris @ XX-Tuning.


28K, Stock Internals, No Meth.
Will do Shortblock swap Next Year, or as long as I could go.

You have your PPG's so the most expensive mod is complete, now do a shortblock, FPGreen, call it a day 350+whp.
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:50 AM   #7
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careful, yes....

also dont expect to have the stock motor go past 80k with those mods.

*CHECK YOUR OIL LIKE EVERYDAY*
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Old 04-25-2008, 08:33 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by shootinsoobie View Post

also dont expect to have the stock motor go past 80k with those mods.

Who's ass did you pull that out of?
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Old 05-21-2008, 10:23 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by shootinsoobie View Post
careful, yes....

also dont expect to have the stock motor go past 80k with those mods.

*CHECK YOUR OIL LIKE EVERYDAY*
I say BS!

I have a vf30 setup with 158k on the original motor. Runs just fine.
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Old 01-15-2008, 11:56 AM   #10
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yeah, see... I've heard that this would be safe and seems like I've heard of others running around the 350whp range and that's what I'm shooting for. I just don't want to get into rods, pistons, etc. I will eventually (like, when my motor blows or in about 4 years) drop a 2.5L in it and go rotated but I want something more than stg2 to tide me over. I really like the idea of the aforementioned set-up but I don't want to blow it up, ya' know?

** just saw the "your engine won't last past 80k" comment. I certainly don't want that. So... what would I need to run that safely OR what other "safer" set-up would you recco? I need more power but I need a reliable car. Ah... the balance of work and pleasure, desire and necessity. lol.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:13 PM   #11
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I would say more power and reliability are two words that dont go together. With mods like that you may run into some problems down the road and then you have to play detective to figure out where the issue is. Do you really want the hastle of knowing that you are pushing your motor to its limits, checking your oil every day All I am saying is that you and others that have done it are taking a risk of blowing something up. What is the real problem, are you trying to get to work faster. And I read your first post saying "dont tell me about my tranny". Well with that power you better consider your trans, because one mis shift, and it could go boom Now when you think about it, is that really a risk you are willing to take?
Just think about it. If something breaks, will you have the cash to fix it. Again, I am not trying to discourage you, just saying what might happen.
Good luck
Ryan
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:27 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
I would say more power and reliability are two words that dont go together. With mods like that you may run into some problems down the road and then you have to play detective to figure out where the issue is. Do you really want the hastle of knowing that you are pushing your motor to its limits, checking your oil every day All I am saying is that you and others that have done it are taking a risk of blowing something up. What is the real problem, are you trying to get to work faster. And I read your first post saying "dont tell me about my tranny". Well with that power you better consider your trans, because one mis shift, and it could go boom Now when you think about it, is that really a risk you are willing to take?
Just think about it. If something breaks, will you have the cash to fix it. Again, I am not trying to discourage you, just saying what might happen.
Good luck
Ryan
nah, you're good and your input is appreciated. I'm here to learn, not front like I know everything. I'm inquiring and your helping so no sweat.

The reason I say that about the tranny is that I have PPG's now so I didn't need a lecture on how "the stock tranny can't hold that power" b/c that is not the case in my case.

I'm not so foolish as to throw junk on my car that will destroy it. That's why I'm trying to figure out what it takes (specifically) to get a 2.0L to that mark safely OR what can I do to add some nice power on stock internals without being that near teh danger zone.

Everyone should know that I'm not a kid. I saved for a long time to buy this car and I treat it with the fear and respect it deserves. I RARELY run it up to 6k RPM and have launched once ever and don't plan to again unless I make a 1/4 run on a track. Not into drag racing (but may on rare occassion) but I do want to eventually make mine a time attack monster (after new motor and several years). So... all that being said, can we continue to talk this over and see what I may be able to do for now?
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Old 01-15-2008, 05:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
And I read your first post saying "dont tell me about my tranny". Well with that power you better consider your trans, because one mis shift, and it could go boom
Ryan


Wow dude read the ****in thread before you post. He has ppg's sucka

His tranny is very well capable of handling that power.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:07 PM   #14
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I am trying to achieve the same amount of power, but iplan new internals, 20g, front mount, 650 injectors, wallbro fuel pump. I also plan on obtaining an 8000 rpm redline. Goodluck on the build.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:09 PM   #15
Boostinwagon
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i have 60k on my car and its fine and as long as you dont beat on it all the time and keep up with regular maintenance you will be fine. I also plan on going built block and rotated when it grenades. Good Luck
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:12 PM   #16
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any idea on what kind of upgraded internals would be needed to max out that set-up? Forged pistons, I know, but what else and how much is some of that? I just assume it would be more cost-effective to wait for a complete engine swap later down the line but maybe I'm wrong? I don't know, I just know I need more power and want to do it safely.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:15 PM   #17
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think of it this a way. stock= restrictions= reliable

no restrictions= fun= bigger turbo= not so reliable.

there is no "hit this amount of miles and your car goes boom", but it is safe to say from past owners that our little 2.slows rarely make it past said named benchmark with those types of mods.

im at 60k now stg2- ic hoses, short ram, header, UP, DP, Exhaust, ECUtek road tune. i dont kill my motor at all and expect it to be good for over 100k, if i keep it that long.

it seems the bearings in our motors are the crap point, due to improper oil levels.

think maybe vf series turbo, that will be more reliable than the evo III, but not as fun.

up to you man, your car, yourr rules. good luck!
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:18 PM   #18
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^^^^^With the proper oil level in the car at all times, you shouldn't have an problem with the spun bearing though, right?
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:22 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock 05 View Post
^^^^^With the proper oil level in the car at all times, you shouldn't have an problem with the spun bearing though, right?
yes, correct, but it seems like some owners dont check that, therefore becoming a problem fast, making your car slow
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Old 01-15-2008, 03:03 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by shootinsoobie View Post
think maybe vf series turbo, that will be more reliable than the evo III, but not as fun.

How is it more reliable? If anything, it is less so, especially with the inherent crack on a lot of VF39s. Also, the MHI turbos can be rebuilt and compressor wheels can be changed
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Old 01-16-2008, 08:11 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shootinsoobie View Post
think of it this a way. stock= restrictions= reliable

no restrictions= fun= bigger turbo= not so reliable.

there is no "hit this amount of miles and your car goes boom", but it is safe to say from past owners that our little 2.slows rarely make it past said named benchmark with those types of mods.

im at 60k now stg2- ic hoses, short ram, header, UP, DP, Exhaust, ECUtek road tune. i dont kill my motor at all and expect it to be good for over 100k, if i keep it that long.

it seems the bearings in our motors are the crap point, due to improper oil levels.

think maybe vf series turbo, that will be more reliable than the evo III, but not as fun.

up to you man, your car, yourr rules. good luck!
well said
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:18 PM   #22
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If I decide to not go with 8000 rpm redline I am gonna go with forged pistons, new rods, bearings, apr studs and maybe cams. If I go 8000 rpm then I am going to get a new crank as well.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:18 PM   #23
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I think its all in the tune, obviously the higher mileage you got the tougher it is on the motor, but I've seen really conservative tunes with 18G's 20's even and dudes have been pushing them for a long time.

Tell your tuner your looking to daily drive and that you dont wan't an agressive map.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:35 PM   #24
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hopefully Audiosavvy will join us in a moment and maybe he has some ideas. He's going to be running the same set-up I mentioned earlier minus the water/alch injection and seems to think it's good to go on stock intenals and that there shouldn't be much cause for concern. I know people are going to have different opinions but let's try to see some logic here.
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Old 01-15-2008, 12:36 PM   #25
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vf 34
550 cc
walbro
heder back exhaust
sti tmic
tmic splitter
stock airbox with k&n minus snorkus
new clutch
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