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05-08-2001, 01:14 PM | #1 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 1140
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:2000 S201 #78, '95 L '13 F150 Ecoboost |
How difficult to install header?
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05-08-2001, 01:26 PM | #2 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 80
Join Date: Jul 1999
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yup, you can definitely do it yourself. whether it is time-consuming or depends on how rusted in the bolts are though.
make sure to buy (a) exhaust header gaskets and (b) lots and lots of liquid wrench. liberally soak all the bolts in it and let the car sit for about half an hour before you start working, and things should go fine. -Edwin |
05-08-2001, 05:00 PM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 6154
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA U.S.A.
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I just pulled my heads off a couple weeks ago, and finished putting them back on yesterday. So here's some advice/questions from a guy who had dirt under his nails from actually doing the job very recently (disclaimer: this is not to intend any previous or future members on this forum don't know what they are saying)
1.Have all the stuff ready to go. If you don't you'll end up like me - waiting terminally for people to send you something you need to do the job. This includes: a shop that can re-surface your heads when you pull them torque wrenches that are certified past 100N/M and as low as 26N/M head gaskets, intake gaskets, exhaust gaskets, thermostat, thermo gasket, oil, coolant, oil filter, oil drain gasket, valve cover gaskets, and some other rubber doo-dads I can't remember the name of at the moment... bolt pattern & specifications for when you put the thing back together. 2. Decide wether or not you intend to pull the engine to do the job. Depending on how much room you have to operate in the engine compartment and how much paint you are willing to part with; this will determine if you are going to do the job with the engine in place, or wether you are going to pull the thing. If you want a pristine job - pull the engine. It's not necessary and will add some time to the overall job, however with that said: If I had to do this job again - I'd pull the engine and do it. I left mine in and I royally scratched the paint in my engine compartment. In fact, scratched may not be the right adjective... (thinking...) raked may be better. The head on the drivers side is almost impossible to remove without taking toll on the paint, with the engine in place. If you pull the engine you'll also need a rear main seal, engine hoist, preferably an engine mount to hold the engine while you work on it, a whole lotta de-greaser to clean the engine compartment out, and clean parts of the engine for that matter as well. And while you are back there you ought to do a full inspection of the tranny. Trust me you'd be very sad if 3 months down the road you are out on a sunny day, tearing up some track, having a grand o'le time testing out those fancy new heads of yours. That's when something utterly foolish happens, and you loose the clutch. Then you drag the little monster back to the garage, and find out you have to replace a $30 clutch pad you had total access to just a few weeks ago... but now you have to (re-)pull the engine to get at it again. Questions: Why are you pulling the things to begin with? Putting in better ones? Do you want to do some work on them? What are your intentions with this job? -Sambo [This message has been edited by Sambo (edited May 08, 2001).] |
05-08-2001, 05:14 PM | #4 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 2646
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE USA
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Echaust HEADERS! Not heads... Don't scare the guy.
[This message has been edited by NebScoob (edited May 08, 2001).] |
05-08-2001, 05:20 PM | #5 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 6154
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kirkland, WA U.S.A.
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Oh! Got it! I was trying to figure out what the heck he meant by "rusted bolts". I was sitting here thinking: "Hmmm... Rust?". Although I didn't encounter much rust on my headers, maybe I'm just lucky. It's a size 14mm me thinks... hahaha - I'm such a moron.
-Sambo |
05-08-2001, 09:13 PM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 1353
Join Date: Apr 2000
Vehicle:2001 Impreza 2.5RS Silver |
Yeah, you should be able to do it. I recently did my MY98 Legacy GT with about 35k miles on it. The bolts back by the converter were a bear to get loose, but other than that, it wasn't too bad. With time, you'll forget any unpleasantness. Anything newer with less miles should be relatively easy to do.
Rich |
05-08-2001, 09:21 PM | #7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 5376
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Markham, ON, Canada
Vehicle:1999 Impreza 2.5RS Black |
a great thx to Sambo still... those r nice information we'll need soon or later! hahaha... I freak out too after I read that...
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05-09-2001, 06:58 PM | #8 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 1140
Join Date: Mar 2000
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego
Vehicle:2000 S201 #78, '95 L '13 F150 Ecoboost |
Geez sambo, I almost $hit a brick! Pull the engine! I live in an apartment complex that won't let you do work on your car nevermind pulling the whole engine out! It's a fairly new car so i'm glad it's not to difficult.
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05-09-2001, 10:25 PM | #9 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 1403
Join Date: May 2000
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: In a warm dry place
Vehicle:99 RBP GC8 Impreza |
To pull the factory header takes about 5-10
minutes assuming there are no stuck bolts. Too easy. Just did mine to install STI engine mounts. If all goes smoothly its a 30 min job. |
05-10-2001, 09:29 AM | #10 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 3649
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Englewood, CO, USA
Vehicle:2001 Impreza 2.5 RS Blue Ridge Pearl-Red acc |
John as you know I slapped on the Borla headers a few weeks back. Let me give you a hand. First I would suggest you have a friend there to help you. Makes it a ton easier. A lift or ramps or pretty high jack stands, you'll need some room to work.
You will need: 1) Vice grips or clamps-2 2) New header gaskets-2 you can get them from the dealer. 3) 14 & 12mm sockets or wrench. 4) Elbow grease I started by taking off the exhaust and mid-pipe. The flange connecting the mid-pipe to the cats is spring loaded 12mm on front side 14mm on the backside of the flange (you'll see). If they are rusted (they will be) it will be a Bizzooch trying to get that first turn, after that it's easy to get them to turn. Then there is a single screw holding the cats in place (12mm). Remove the cats from the header. Then remove the bolts on the stock headers and slide them off. Taking the headers off is the easiest part. To put the new headers on, just slide the new gaskets on and rebolt up the headers and cats. The hardest part is putting the mid pipe back. I don't know if you even need to take off the exhaust and mid-pipe, if not DON'T. Just unbolt the headers from the cat up. You need the vice grips to compress the flange so you can put the spring-loaded bolts back on. And BLAM you have new headers. Enjoy. Ryan D. O yeah it took me and my Bro about 2 hours but we did the whole exhaust system, if your doing just the headers, I would say about 1 hour if that. [This message has been edited by Scoober01 (edited May 10, 2001).] |
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