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Old 05-08-2007, 05:04 PM   #1
vrgs
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Chapter/Region: VIC
Location: richmond
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2004 bimmer 545i
E60

Default help----remove my rotor

hey, guys, i am trying to move my rotor and have them machined,its been 2 days and now i am at my last step. do i have to remove the bolt in the circle to take out the rotor or just rotor is rusted with the arm?
thanks
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Old 05-08-2007, 05:16 PM   #2
steve
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the rotor should just pop off.
Don't take out that center bolt, it's not necessary.
Do use a rubber mallet, and gently tap the rotor from the backside, rotating the assembly so you're not hitting it in the same spot over and over. It will come free, just be sure to not let it hit the ground when it comes loose.
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Old 05-08-2007, 05:45 PM   #3
banman
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Or do it the easy way: just drive bolts into those two threaded holes visible just inside the lugs.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:04 PM   #4
steve
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I may be blind banman, but it doesn't look like he has the threaded holes.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:17 PM   #5
banman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hypa View Post
I may be blind banman, but it doesn't look like he has the threaded holes.
You are blind, you old coot!

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Old 05-08-2007, 06:33 PM   #6
vrgs
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hi, all ,thanks
i tried to tap it fromt the back, but the rotor is just firm as hell.
how does that thread hole help to remove the rotor?
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:38 PM   #7
banman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vrgs View Post
hi, all ,thanks
i tried to tap it fromt the back, but the rotor is just firm as hell.
how does that thread hole help to remove the rotor?
Find a bolt (or two) that fit, and drive them into the holes until they bottom out, then continue tightening them a few turns at a time alternately. I can't remember the exact dimensions, but it's a common bolt on the car. As you drive the bolt in, it pushes against the hub, driving the rotor off.

Just be sure it's a stout bolt. I first tried it with some Home Depot bolts, and I managed to bend the crap out of them.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:39 PM   #8
supermarkus
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put two bolts into those holes and find out Doh! ^^^ Party pooper
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:41 PM   #9
vrgs
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ok. would let you know ... starting on that now.
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Old 05-08-2007, 06:43 PM   #10
steve
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
You are blind, you old coot!
Man, I am getting old.....



really though, good eye banman!
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:02 PM   #11
vrgs
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hahaha.job done. thanks so much guys. especially banman and supermarkus..ready to machine them tomorrow. fyi, there is one at fraser and 19th ave do the job really cheap, only 11.5 a peice. any recommendation on that?
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Old 05-08-2007, 08:36 PM   #12
rs_two_five
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to tell you the truth.. just buy new rotors rather than re-surface them. I've done the whole re-surface thing before, and most times within a couple of months the "pulsing" in the steering wheel returns. You can usually find cheap OEM replacement rotors at Lordco/Napa etc.. usually for around the 25.00 a piece range.. and those are new rotors.. just a sujestion..
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Old 05-08-2007, 09:42 PM   #13
madcat
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Hit the hub with some penetrating lube. Drive M8 bolts into the two holes. The caliper bolts fit, *but don't use them* -- if the rotor is really welded on, they could shear off. Don't ask me how I know this. Some taps on the back of the rotor with a hammer also might help. I've also had success with a small sledge and extremely violent tapping -- only do this if you have a short temper.

When you put the rotor back on, use a some high-temp anti seize on the mating surfaces. Hopefully, it will be easier to remove next time.
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Old 05-09-2007, 12:47 AM   #14
vrgs
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thanks madcat, the job is done now.
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