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Old 05-16-2013, 09:16 PM   #201
aboothman
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And the Pauter rods are probably 5.141" like most aftermarket rods, which adds .004" over 5.137", etc. It does add up, I just thought that .039" extra gasket may be excessive. In theory you need a gasket that = stock HG (.020") + amount removed from heads (.012" which is the max, assuming 3x .004") and block (.004" is MAX) + other factors such as non-OEM length rods (.004"ish) + a buffer. Assuming OEM CD/pin height on the JEs of course.

I guess all I am getting at, is that you would benefit from some measuring since it is apart already (as well as claying it), and throw the figures into a CR/deck height sheet. There may be a gasket that would get closer to where you need to be while minimizing the excess quench, but I suppose if you are gonna rebuild it soon anyway...
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:29 PM   #202
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Pauters are 5.135" rods. When I get the valves in i will clay it to check clearance. Do the heads need to be fully torqued down on the block?
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:23 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle_J View Post
Pauters are 5.135" rods. When I get the valves in i will clay it to check clearance. Do the heads need to be fully torqued down on the block?
Please stop for the sake of the car and your money. Take a break. Do some reading and start again.

Do head gaskets compress?
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:40 PM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinscrollGT35R View Post

Please stop for the sake of the car and your money. Take a break. Do some reading and start again.

Do head gaskets compress?
Start again? Lol
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:47 PM   #205
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There is so much more to building a engine then just tossing parts at it.

You need to stop and do some reading / learning before you go much more. You are going to damage more and spend more if you dont.

Does a head gasket compress?
Did you check the guides and the valve seats?
Did you check the top of the pistons for contact?
Do you have the piston facing the right direction?
Are you using oem head bolts?
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Old 05-17-2013, 02:55 PM   #206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TwinscrollGT35R View Post
There is so much more to building a engine then just tossing parts at it.

You need to stop and do some reading / learning before you go much more. You are going to damage more and spend more if you dont.

Does a head gasket compress?
Did you check the guides and the valve seats?
Did you check the top of the pistons for contact?
Do you have the piston facing the right direction?
Are you using oem head bolts?
Obviously.
Brand new guides when the heads were built.
No marks on pistons.
Pistons are installed correctly.
Arp head studs.

It's not like this is the first motor I've built. I've just never had piston to valve clearance issues.
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:49 PM   #207
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Originally Posted by Kyle_J View Post
Obviously.
Brand new guides when the heads were built.
No marks on pistons.
Pistons are installed correctly.
Arp head studs.

It's not like this is the first motor I've built. I've just never had piston to valve clearance issues.

Since the heads were built? When? When you built the motor last time? or did you just have that done?
Did you have the seats checked? Or are you going to?
No marks on the pistons?
Did you check the cam timing to see if you have valve to valve contact?


I would pull the motor apart and blue print everything. Unless you have a build sheet. If the valves overlaped and hit each other, Then depending on when, It could have messed up the guides and the valve seats.
If it made contact with the piston. Well that force goes some place, The valve gets most. But it could effect the piston, cylinder walls, rod, bearings and crank.

If you want to do it right. I'd pull it down and inspect everything.
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Old 05-17-2013, 03:51 PM   #208
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And yes it does suck! But do you really want to do this all over yet again? I'm sure those pistons will not take a 2nd hit.

Fix the core problem and stop throwing parts at it.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:13 PM   #209
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I just finished tearing the short block down and inspecting everything. Found one bad piston because of wrist pin clearance. Replaced the piston, all 4 pins and all 4 rod bushings and had everything honed to get the correct clearance. Next I am going to clay the pistons, just waiting on valves to get here.
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:12 PM   #210
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What am I looking for in a bad valve seat?
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Old 05-18-2013, 01:08 AM   #211
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Take them to a machine shop. They need to be checked not only for cracks but also being out of round. Then the bent valve comes down on the seat it can break the guides and the seats.

Just take the heads over and have them inspected. Also look around the spark plug holes for cracks.
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Old 08-04-2013, 12:26 PM   #212
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I suppose I could update this. Car is now back together and running. Only thing irritating me is I still have problems with stalling when coming to a stop and hesitation when I start to accelerate. I've played with so many different tables on the aem but nothing seems to help
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Old 08-04-2013, 01:01 PM   #213
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Originally Posted by Kyle_J View Post
I suppose I could update this. Car is now back together and running. Only thing irritating me is I still have problems with stalling when coming to a stop and hesitation when I start to accelerate. I've played with so many different tables on the aem but nothing seems to help
Kyle,

Watch this video that my buddy made. It's very helpful. Some of the stuff we don't use (IAC stuff) but this will help you get your idle PERFECT.


Just temporarily, try adjusting your hi idle. When the car is rolling over 3mph or so, set that a little higher to help with the stalling.
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Old 08-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #214
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Thanks! Ill try messing around with it later tonight
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:17 AM   #215
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That video is great. Mostly took care of my issues by changing my high idle speed to 8mph and fixing my idle off/on percentages. Still have a slight hesitation when getting on the throttle but that can wait until I get it on a dyno for a tune
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Old 08-05-2013, 12:33 AM   #216
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Most likely that's tip in.


But yeah I use 10 mph for my high speed idle and a high idle value of like 2-300
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Old 08-08-2013, 06:26 PM   #217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle_J View Post
That video is great. Mostly took care of my issues by changing my high idle speed to 8mph and fixing my idle off/on percentages. Still have a slight hesitation when getting on the throttle but that can wait until I get it on a dyno for a tune
Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
Most likely that's tip in.


But yeah I use 10 mph for my high speed idle and a high idle value of like 2-300
Sweet ! Glad it worked out for you

Agreed on the tip-in. You really need to spend alot of time getting a stand alone right.
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Old 08-08-2013, 07:44 PM   #218
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So I have discovered haha. Kind of pissed right now though went to install my new dss aluminum driveshaft only to find out I got the wrong one. Contemplating cutting the yoke a little bit
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:02 PM   #219
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So I have discovered haha. Kind of pissed right now though went to install my new dss aluminum driveshaft only to find out I got the wrong one. Contemplating cutting the yoke a little bit
I actually cut a wrx drive shaft and used the end of it to weld on a new Sti driveshaft that I cut the end of. So ended up with Sti ds with r160 yoke and all that. Turned out nicely. Handles plenty of power. No vibration
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:21 PM   #220
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So I have discovered haha. Kind of pissed right now though went to install my new dss aluminum driveshaft only to find out I got the wrong one. Contemplating cutting the yoke a little bit
Don't do that. Just turn the driveshaft so the holes are offset from the wrong size holes. Then you can mark and drill holes with the right spacing in the differential flange. Sorry I'm doing a terrible job describing what I mean. Basically turn it and drill new holes in the diff flange not the driveshaft
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Old 08-20-2013, 11:47 PM   #221
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I just change the flange on the diff usually.
The R160 and R180 flanges come off easy and swap no problem.
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Old 08-21-2013, 02:17 AM   #222
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I just change the flange on the diff usually.
The R160 and R180 flanges come off easy and swap no problem.
This is easiest option and cheapest as well. I wanted to experiment when I did mine. Didn't actually think the welds would hold. Also was surprised to see the ds is paper thin just about!!

But yeah not good to cut your nice dss ds.
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:50 AM   #223
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The problem with the ds is its too long. I got ahold of driveshaft shop hopefully ill just be able to get a new one
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Old 08-21-2013, 08:56 AM   #224
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Hopefully ^
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Old 08-21-2013, 07:43 PM   #225
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Also having an issue with my coolant temps. At about 160 degrees reading from the aem ems the factory gauge starts shooting up above the normal operating area. I went through the coolant temp wizard but it was the same thing. I adjusted the coolant sensor cal table so that about 195 degrees on the ems was a normal gauge reading. To me though this isn't correct??
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