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Old 11-18-2012, 03:13 PM   #26
Flat 4 Motorsport
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Damn, I have to see if the ID1600 are available, I checked on pricing for a customer and was told they were available about a month ago.
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:12 PM   #27
Junior2JZ
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Proper fuel system setup + id1000s/1 pump and I go 10s@130+ with e85 in a 3500lb forester... With a large rotated turbo setup
I have plenty of customers running id1000s with 30rs on e85 and trapping 125+ in street cars.

Instead of wasting money on new injectors, properly setup your fuel systems.

Fuel pump wiring is the easiest way to get the right flow of out your injectors.
Fuel pressure, 5psi of pressure makes a HUGE difference, especially when you have injectors that can function at high levels of pressure.


You are not maxing out a set of id1000s unless you are making in the low 500whp range on e85. You are not making anywhere near that with a 20g.

Jr
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Old 11-18-2012, 04:55 PM   #28
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my id1000 at 100% on stock base pressure and dw300 pump at 26psi on pump gas
upgrading to walbro 400 will report back!
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Old 11-18-2012, 05:48 PM   #29
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Thanks JR, Phil tried to help me with this and I guess I was a bit hard headed. My tuner wasn't happy with me increasing the fuel pressure so I didn't go that route, which I was before he came to town last weekend.
Now after the fact I have purchased a complete fuel distribution system in the engine bay, coming off my stock hard lines. I have AP fuel rails and will be installing new fuel lines and a new FPR. I now need to learn what I have to do to upgrade my wiring to the fuel pump.
I have 2 DW300's now one in the car and one on the shelf. I was thinking I was going to have to buy the Walbro 460 and new injectors. I'm so thankful JR chimed in with the info he gave. So now I just need to know if keeping the DW300 re-wired or do I need to switch to the 460 it too wired ?

Thanks Guys,
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:20 PM   #30
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Dennis,

When we talked before, I mentioned rewiring the pump with thicker gauge wire, and running it to the fuel pump controller, this is what Jr is talking about.

There's a write up in the fuel systems thread on how to rewire so you can pull more voltage.

Your FPR should be there Monday or Tuesday along with your new lines and fittings.

When you get everything, and are ready to install you can call me and I'll walk you through it.

Phil
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:46 PM   #31
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Hey Phil, Will I need a bigger pump or will the 300 do it ? Again thanks for your help with all of this.
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Old 11-18-2012, 09:10 PM   #32
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The dw301 you have should be plenty.
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Old 11-18-2012, 10:29 PM   #33
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I broke in on 91 and then switched to E. It was fine to me. Could itve been better? Sure. I'm on an AEM EMS v1.
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Old 11-18-2012, 11:57 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport View Post
The dw301 you have should be plenty.
dw300 doesnt run any better than walbro 255
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:28 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga

dw300 doesnt run any better than walbro 255
On stock wiring they're pretty much neck and neck, upgrade your wiring and see what it flows


Both are good pumps, the dw has the advantage being ethanol compatible.

You could run the wally with ethanol I'm sure, how long the orings last is anyone's guess.
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Old 11-19-2012, 12:28 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnorton View Post
Thanks JR, Phil tried to help me with this and I guess I was a bit hard headed. My tuner wasn't happy with me increasing the fuel pressure so I didn't go that route, which I was before he came to town last weekend.


Thanks Guys,
No raising fuel pressure? I wont even get into "tuners" that don't want to do that..

Sucks you had to go out and buy lines and all that other stuff.
In reality all you need is a good pump 340/400/450 and the rewire with relay for more AMPS.

I did another car this week that had id1ks, walbro 450, 55 base pressure and rewire. stock rails, and lines.. He had an inline Nismo adjustable reg. We made over 500whp on a GTX30r. Car trapped 127mph on Friday. IDCs are mid 90s
http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-Fuel-Pr...FY-d4AodvGMAIw





Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
dw300 doesnt run any better than walbro 255
I agree
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Old 11-19-2012, 07:14 AM   #37
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This is GREAT info guys, I did hear that with stock wiring the 300 isn't much more than an 255 but it is e85 rated.

Last night I hope I did my home work right by going to NASIOC forum to read about upgrading the wiring to the fuel pump. Doesn't seem hard to do and I purchased the relay kit from Summit Racing.

If there's anything I should know before I get started with this upgrade please let me know.

Thanks,
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:25 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junior2JZ View Post

No raising fuel pressure? I wont even get into "tuners" that don't want to do that..

Sucks you had to go out and buy lines and all that other stuff.
In reality all you need is a good pump 340/400/450 and the rewire with relay for more AMPS.

I did another car this week that had id1ks, walbro 450, 55 base pressure and rewire. stock rails, and lines.. He had an inline Nismo adjustable reg. We made over 500whp on a GTX30r. Car trapped 127mph on Friday. IDCs are mid 90s
http://www.frsport.com/Nismo-Fuel-Pr...FY-d4AodvGMAIw

I agree
Jr, most of those guys don't like the higher pressure because they don't understand that you need lots more pump to do that since more volume is needed.

Kinda like how the lower pressure you run your pump at the more it flows. Throws those ppl off. Yeah higher pressure increases injector flow but without enough pump your dead.


Dennis glad you didn't raise the pressure on a 255 or 300 with no wiring. You might have made the problem worse.

I'm sure all you need is a butt ton more pump. Fwiw ppl using twin pump setups and id2k's are getting like 3000cc's plus out of them at high pressure.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:33 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnorton View Post
This is GREAT info guys, I did hear that with stock wiring the 300 isn't much more than an 255 but it is e85 rated.

Last night I hope I did my home work right by going to NASIOC forum to read about upgrading the wiring to the fuel pump. Doesn't seem hard to do and I purchased the relay kit from Summit Racing.

If there's anything I should know before I get started with this upgrade please let me know.

Thanks,
You cant just replace Positive wire from the pump to increase amps you need to replace both wires, this is worthless thing to do!
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:49 AM   #40
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you ould buy the bnib twin pump hanger i ahve from full blown dennis and never need more fuel again! two 255's even would be plenty. and it already has beefy wires running from pump to top.
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Old 11-19-2012, 05:03 PM   #41
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My plan on the wiring part guys is this, unless I'm not thinking correctly. I have a bunch of 8 awg wire that I can come off of the power distribution block that I have already under my hood and run two of those to the fuel pump, I have a 2007 wagon by the way. I was going to go to the relay with the positive and a negative to the pump or relay if need be. Another thought I had was put a distribution block somewhere by the fuel pump so I could bring wires from it. Then I thought I take the trigger wire to the relay so when I turn the key it energizes and supply positive to the pump. Is this not what we are doing in giving the electrons a lesser resistance to flow from the power source to the pump ?

I do have another question that came up today while I was discussing what I'm fixing to do and that is will this effect my tune in any way ? I said no but I also thought it might be wise if I ask that question. My thinking is I'm giving the pump less resistance so when I do ask for more fuel it will be able to supply more efficiently and not draw a ton of amps and get hot. Am I thinking correctly ?
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:02 PM   #42
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Increasing side of positive wire will not gain anything at all since the ground wire is same thickness. You cant touch the ground wire as its how the pump controlled.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:10 PM   #43
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if it was me id wire at least a 40 amp relay. put relay in trunk, power directly from battery. signal relay with wire from relay to stock viltage controller. use big ground. and then rewire all the way from fuel pump to top hat/relay.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:44 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
Increasing side of positive wire will not gain anything at all since the ground wire is same thickness. You cant touch the ground wire as its how the pump controlled.
wow, whoever told you this IS VERY WRONG, the more voltage the more its going to flow!

DW sells a hardwire kit and it works flawlessly
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:48 PM   #45
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i think he was trying to say big power and small ground doesnt really equal big voltage.

good ground is as important as good power. i think that was his point
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:20 PM   #46
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I have an aeromotive 340 lph pump and id1000s car has 272 cams and a pte 6266. Aem is seeing 106% "duty cycle" at 7200 rpm @25 psi on 93 octane. Thoughts? Am I really running out of injector? Stock fpr so 43.5 base. Car makes 450 whp at 25 psi. I am not sure if the pump is on stock wiring.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:38 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 05_wRex
I have an aeromotive 340 lph pump and id1000s car has 272 cams and a pte 6266. Aem is seeing 106% "duty cycle" at 7200 rpm @25 psi on 93 octane. Thoughts? Am I really running out of injector? Stock fpr so 43.5 base. Car makes 450 whp at 25 psi. I am not sure if the pump is on stock wiring.
My money's on oem wiring, upgrade that and log idc's.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:39 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stretchedk7 View Post
i think he was trying to say big power and small ground doesnt really equal big voltage.

good ground is as important as good power. i think that was his point
exactly, take an audio amp hook it up to 4 guage power and 20 gauge ground it will work as if it would of been on 20 gauge power wire. Would be nice if walbro had internal speed regulator just like fuellab
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:07 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flat 4 Motorsport

My money's on oem wiring, upgrade that and log idc's.
So it is not common for the 2.5 sti engine to use THAT much fuel? Can the wiring be upgraded and have it not be 100% all the time? Just upgrade the wiring and not hardware it, or will that not be any better?
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Old 11-20-2012, 07:19 AM   #50
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So taking the ground wire that connects to the pump and tie that to the 8 awg coming from the battery and the chassis ground will not give it a ground loop ?
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