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Old 01-08-2014, 10:44 PM   #251
Breezio
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Posting this next UOA just for fun. Thought some might get a kick out of it.

This is from my '07 Class6 commercial truck I own/operate/maintain.
Over 255K on the motor, oil/filter changed every 12K miles with a 'semi-synthetic' 15w40 you've probably never heard of.
Look at the viscosity numbers, wonder if I should run the oil in my WRX during the warm season..?.

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Old 01-09-2014, 09:35 AM   #252
gpshumway
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Looks about as I would expect of a 15w40. Heck, it looks quite a lot like RT6.

How many gallons in the sump of this thing? What's your usage like? Short hauls?
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Old 01-09-2014, 10:40 AM   #253
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The previous couple RT6 UOA's posted show lower viscosity and less of three of the four additives towards the bottom of the sheet? You are way more the oil expert then I, are they close and that's why you say it looks a lot like RT6? Which I suppose shouldn't surprise me as they are both oils meant for TD trucks..?

More about the truck;
Holds a little under 4 gallons
7.8L I6 with variable geometry turbo, 220HP @ 2500rpm (redline 2700rpm) Made by Toyota
It never uses enough over the 12K change interval to need any added. No leaks, some comes out the VTA crankcase breather (as expected).
Short hauls, yep. 95% of my work is local, coming home every day. Roughly about 40K miles a year.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:42 PM   #254
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It looks a lot more like RT6 than most passenger car oils, lots of Magnesium and on the thin side of 40wt. As to lower viscosity with RT6 the real question is what's the HTHS viscosity, nobody tests that in UOA because it's $$$$. You can interpolate by the change in KV100 though, did this oil shear more percentage wise than RT6? Oregon is not exactly arctic, but even there I'd expect the superior cold pumpability of RT6 to be of some benefit, not likely to shorten the engine life measurably though.

I figured it was short trips. As I understand the long-haul guys often go 25k+ on an oil change. Sort of illustrates why UOA is a bit silly for street cars. In a HD truck with 16 quarts in the sump and variable intervals between 10k mi and 30k mi UOA can actually pay for itself.

Thanks for sharing.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:26 PM   #255
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Copied over from my UOA thread: Link

Here's the latest UOA from OAI for my WRX. Oil is once again Redline 5w30. This will be the last run on Redline (for now any way). This stuff is a viscosity rock star, it actually gets thicker (no shearing) and yet the viscosity index seems to stay pretty stable. It's hard to tell as small variations in the KV40 and KV100 make large variations in VI, but the calculated VI for this sample is 185. Take that M1 0w40 advocates . The oil still performs well in the bitter cold despite thickening a bit, easy starting even in below zero temps (ask me how I know). The last trip on this oil was to Grandma's house at -25*F.

Wear metals look pretty good, though 3ppm of Nickel is not so good. Copper is likely from the oil cooler. The TBN looks pretty solid for the milage and use, but really highlights how cold weather kills TBN. This year has been much colder than last year and the TBN shows it, it's lower despite fewer short trips than on the last fill.



Current fill is M1 ESP 5w30 and I have to say I'm liking it so far. Seems better than Redline for responsiveness in the extreme cold. Easy starting as well, though it's been so long since I used Redline 0w30 or GC it's hard to compare, better than used (thick) Redline 5w30 that's for sure.

Last edited by gpshumway; 01-13-2014 at 11:58 PM. Reason: Stupid fat fingers.
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Old 01-13-2014, 09:39 PM   #256
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Do you mean latest UOA from OAI? I wonder if the elevated nickel is from the extreme cold? Looks pretty good though. Are you planning to run the M1 ESP as long as you did the RL?

-Dennis
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:03 AM   #257
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D'oh. Yes, OAI. Fixored

I'm planning to run the first fill to 6,500 mi. We'll see if I get nervous enough to pull a sample at ~4,000 mi to see how it's doing. Maybe 5k runs after that, maybe 7,500, I don't think I've got the guts to go 10k on M1 ESP.

Nickel being a result of extreme cold? Could be. It's possible it takes a while to get to the valvetrain at the temps we've had here lately. If so it's a good argument for M1 0w40 or maybe Redline 0w30. Heck at our recent temps there'd be nothing wrong with M1 0w30.
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Old 01-14-2014, 07:41 AM   #258
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Yeah, I think I would be checking TBN by 5k miles. Do you know what it is? I don't see it on the data sheet. Hopefully TBN retention will be very good.

-Dennis
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:07 AM   #259
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Dimitry K's VOA indicates the TBN is about 6.5 in M1 ESP:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...OA#Post3119418

It had better have good TBN retention. VW/Audi cars run this oil to 10k, even the oil destroying DI cars.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:53 AM   #260
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^I have roughly 2.8k on my run of ESP. Down about 0.6 qts. I'm thinking of sampling at 5k and seeing if 7.5k is feasible. Or just changing it around 6k and sending in the sample then.
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Old 01-14-2014, 02:46 PM   #261
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Hey guys not to thread jack, so I'll make it quick! Best oil to use on a 2002 h6 outback with 120k? Only drive the car couple times a week! Less than 5k a year. Thanks!!!
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:23 PM   #262
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There is no "best". The UOAs I've done on my dad's 3.6R indicate they're not picky about oil. Valvoline Maxlife 5w30 (any flavor) would be a good choice as would M1 High Mileage 5w30.
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:34 PM   #263
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What is the best method to retrieve an oil sample without emptying the entire amount?

Last edited by Villalobosj; 01-24-2014 at 02:53 PM.
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Old 01-24-2014, 03:11 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villalobosj View Post
What is the best method to retrieve an oil sample without emptying the entire amount?
I think blackstone sells a sampling syringe kit; or DIY it with a turkey baster and some tubing from the hardware store.
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Old 01-25-2014, 08:27 AM   #265
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:41 AM   #266
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At what point (milage) should I take an oil sample to have analyzed?
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Old 02-08-2014, 10:31 AM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villalobosj View Post
At what point (milage) should I take an oil sample to have analyzed?
It depends why you're doing it. Curiosity? What car? Are you looking to extend your intervals? What are your driving conditions? Etc., etc.

5k is probably a good number on turbo car, depending on the oil used. Also get TBN to see if you can run the oil longer or just to see if the oil is already "spent" or not.

-Dennis

Last edited by bluesubie; 02-08-2014 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 02-08-2014, 01:04 PM   #268
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
It depends why you're doing it. What car? Are you looking to extend your intervals? What are your driving conditions? Curiosity? Etc., etc. -Dennis
2013 wrx torqued performance stage 1.
90% of my driving is 5 miles or less. I live close to work, so during the week I don't drive much. Just wanting to make sure my viscosity/protection is still there. I'm only at 1500 miles on this oil change.
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:17 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villalobosj View Post
2013 wrx torqued performance stage 1. 90% of my driving is 5 miles or less. I live close to work, so during the week I don't drive much. Just wanting to make sure my viscosity/protection is still there. I'm only at 1500 miles on this oil change.
What oil are you using?

-Dennis
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Old 02-09-2014, 12:57 PM   #270
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Quote:
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What oil are you using? -Dennis
Pennzoil ultra 5w30. At 1500 miles I have only consumed less than a 10th of a quart.
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Old 02-09-2014, 06:19 PM   #271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Villalobosj View Post
Pennzoil ultra 5w30. At 1500 miles I have only consumed less than a 10th of a quart.
With your tune and your short trips I would say it's highly likely you have quite a bit of fuel dilution and oil that is now a 20 grade from the fuel. I would do a uoa at 3-4k miles and top up with PU 0W-40 or 5W-40.

-Dennis
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:30 PM   #272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesubie View Post
With your tune and your short trips I would say it's highly likely you have quite a bit of fuel dilution and oil that is now a 20 grade from the fuel. I would do a uoa at 3-4k miles and top up with PU 0W-40 or 5W-40. -Dennis
Good point with the short trips and fuel dilution! I'll top off with PU 5w40 and next oil change use 5w40 when changing it.
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Old 02-21-2014, 06:41 PM   #273
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So I got this back today. -____- Bought a used EJ207 swap from a vender on here a few months ago with supposedly 25k miles. I've changed the oil in it twice since doing the swap and I'm starting to hear metal scrapping sounds when the engine is running. Think a rod bearing is on it's way out. I've only put about 2k miles on it so far.
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:02 AM   #274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by murrdogg24 View Post
So I got this back today. -____- Bought a used EJ207 swap from a vender on here a few months ago with supposedly 25k miles. I've changed the oil in it twice since doing the swap and I'm starting to hear metal scrapping sounds when the engine is running. Think a rod bearing is on it's way out. I've only put about 2k miles on it so far.
What air filter are you running? I think an EJ207 rod bearing going out "should" show more aluminum, but you never know.

-Dennis
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:36 AM   #275
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What air filter are you running? I think an EJ207 rod bearing going out "should" show more aluminum, but you never know.

-Dennis
Right now I'm running stock intake with oem paper filter.
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