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Old 11-25-2014, 08:05 PM   #26
Zundfolge
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Member#: 369251
Join Date: Sep 2013
Chapter/Region: South East
Vehicle:
2002 WRX

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhoerath View Post
OP hope this answers all your questions.
A wealth of info, thanks everyone. I am still hopeful that I can avoid adding a wheel bearing project to this current repair, but I am now considering adding the tools for when one needs to be done.

If I were to get the tools from Harbor Freight, is this everything I would need? More than I would need?

http://www.harborfreight.com/fwd-fro...ers-66829.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing...set-93980.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html

Dave
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:11 PM   #27
mhoerath
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Member#: 131379
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: richmond, va
Vehicle:
2003 354 ftlb@3k rpm
justablue hatch

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Those are the 3 items. I found a heavier slide hammer for a bit more money at one of the auto parts stores and can't remember which. Probably this one at Northern Tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...JPQaAu0M8P8HAQ

And used the bench grinder to shape the bearing splitter face to fit the subie hub.

Bad bearings usually begin with a whirring sound, rhythmic to speed of the wheel. Increases/decreases with weight/unweight as the car turns. Also had bad bearings without any play in the hub.
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Old 11-26-2014, 12:02 PM   #28
Zundfolge
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2002 WRX

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Awesome, thanks. Hopefully I will have time to tackle the project this weekend. I'll update with pics and progress as I go.
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Old 11-26-2014, 01:07 PM   #29
Bikelok
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Nor-Cal Bay Area
Vehicle:
2002 WRX wagon 5mt
PSM

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Originally Posted by Zundfolge View Post

I have this set and it works just fine, BUT I did have to take a dremle to it to fit properly on the studs of a 5x100 hub.

10 minutes and it was perfect.



Sent from the twilight zone.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #30
Zundfolge
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I was able to replace the driver side rear knuckle assembly and the subframe this weekend. I did not have an accurate way to compare them and the pictures I took are crap, so I don't know for sure what was damaged (if anything) with the old parts.

This morning I took the car in to a new, recommended alignment shop and I was pleased with the work that they did. Here are the various stages as best I remember them:


After adjusting just the toe on the rear:




After readjusting the rear plus moving the subframe, also adjusting front camber:




After adding eccentric bolts to try to further correct the alignment:




Any thoughts on the alignment data? I was a little bummed that it still required the eccentric bolts to finally correct it, but I guess that is not that big of a deal. I am just happy that it is finally within spec and does not have ridiculous camber on the driver side rear wheel anymore.
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Old 12-02-2014, 08:08 AM   #31
mhoerath
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Location: richmond, va
Vehicle:
2003 354 ftlb@3k rpm
justablue hatch

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Looking good. Lots of work. Amazing when 12 year old chassis bolts come out!

I have -1.5 camber on all 4 tires. Maybe dial in front negative camber a bit more?
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