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12-29-2003, 02:11 AM | #1 |
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:2008 STI |
Dash Parts Removal for Wiring
How much of the dash did you remove when you did the wiring for your car? I'm to the point now where I almost have a complete WRX engine management harness sitting in my basement. It is ready to be integrated into my 96L. The right way to do things would be to remove everything down to the firewall, strip out the EJ22 wires, and integrate the WRX wires. There is so much work to do that it is probably not worth it. Now, what IS needed though?
There are wires that pass through the firewall in a few places and I'm not quite sure how much can be removed to gain access to the firewall for safe wire routing. It looks like yamarocket just removed the blower motor and box on the passenger's side just above the passenger footwell and managed to wire everything that way. Is this all that is needed? I spent about an hour this morning removing my dash so I could get to everything with ease, but I'm not sure how much more I need to remove. -Jon (it's too damn cold)
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12-29-2003, 02:40 AM | #2 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 25516
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Send help, stuck in internet!
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just currious.
does it look like the harness will come out about where the dp sits? we had to zip tie my harness to the a/c pipe, but I removed the a/c (left the one pipe in there). i was thinking of trying to fab up a holder to keep the wires away from the dp. you can see in this pic the wires are ziped to the a/c pipe. |
12-29-2003, 03:38 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 1305
Join Date: Apr 2000
Chapter/Region:
AKIC
Vehicle:2000 Impreza |
I removed the 2 lower panels by the driver and passenger footwells, the stereo, the glovebox, and the box where the A/C and heater exchanger are housed.
The drivers side stuff was just to get better access to some factory wiring I tapped into. Pulled the stereo to pass the wires through behind there for the instruments/power. Also mounted the fuel pump controller back there. I sent all the wires for the engine bay through the same hole as subiekid. Subiekid, I ended up ziptieing my wiring to the factory loom just above that hole on the firewall to keep them away from the DP. |
12-29-2003, 03:43 AM | #4 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 25516
Join Date: Oct 2002
Chapter/Region:
NWIC
Location: Send help, stuck in internet!
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i wish i could just rotate the harness so that it would face upwards...... what a dream....
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12-29-2003, 02:09 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 1185
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: North of the border
Vehicle:I flap my gums and now I'm a specialist |
Only part that I would normally have to remove is the blower fan section of the heater box. Everything you need to connect should be there.
Subiekid, Normally the stock engine harness that comes out the firewall can be pulled back into the car since it is not needed. Then use the same grommet and put your harness through it. |
12-29-2003, 02:59 PM | #6 | |
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:2008 STI |
Quote:
For some reason, I was thinking that there was a grommet on the driver's side that I had to get to but I guess that isn't the case. Perhaps I will put the dash back in before continuing my wiring so I can test the engine before reassembling everything. -Jon |
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01-01-2004, 02:47 AM | #7 | |
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:2008 STI |
My car required the A/C condensor, the blower, and the heater core all to be removed (this involved dash and steering column support removal).
Quote:
I also realized why I was thinking there was a grommet to be addressed on the driver's side: the main power wires that go to/from the engine compartment fuses/relays. I think I've decided to just remove that entire portion from my WRX harness and do the tapping of the few wires over towards the ECU side (is there any other way to do this??). I think I just need to run the power to the ecu, diagnosis connectors, and fuel pump and tap in the neutral switch and backup lights. The instrument panel stuff will be tapped at the central point under the dash where the WRX harness terminates. -Jon |
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01-01-2004, 11:09 AM | #8 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 5960
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
Vehicle:FXT 11.6@118 93 oct NSX 450 whp SC'd (93 oct) |
Quote:
Also, I completely disassembled my dash down to the firewall...started reassembling it on Tue, dam this is not going to be fun...can't wait to just be dropping the motor in! |
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01-01-2004, 10:25 PM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 3362
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Central NJ
Vehicle:2001 I've wired a Few cars in my day |
just pull the blower box and the top of the dash off no need to pull the heater part or the drivers side of the dash. all the splices can be done on passenger side of the car. the only cut/splice you'll need to do on the drivers side is to change the ground for the fuel pump relay which can be spliced into the ground off the main relay. the rotating of the firewall gromet is a great idea that I didn't think of on the first swap I did you may as well just cut if off your RS harness and then put it back on and reseal it with some tape and rubber cement.
Z |
01-02-2004, 12:22 PM | #10 |
Homicidal Maniac
Moderator Member#: 1612
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Austin, TX
Vehicle:2008 STI |
The second grommet, the one which the engine harness passes through, cannot be accessed without the heater box being removed on my car (this could be different for the newer cars). I could see and touch the grommet, but there was no way I could work on it that way.
-Jon |
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