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01-26-2008, 09:58 AM | #1 |
Scooby Newbie
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Oil filter not staying tight
I have a 06 Impreza 2.5i, I chang my own oil. I have noticed that the oil filter is leaking every time. I know you should only hand tighten, because you can bend the new filter.
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01-26-2008, 10:00 AM | #2 |
GC84Ever
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are you using oem filters?
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01-26-2008, 10:26 AM | #3 |
Scooby Specialist
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I've never heard that overtightening can bend the filter. Oil filters are pretty tough.
You hand tighten so that the filter can be more easily removed at the next change. Also, you coat the rubber gasket with a light film of old oil to help seal it. If I were you, I'd get an OE filter or at least a Bosch filter or better and stay away from Fram (not saying you're using a Fram, just saying stay away from them). |
01-26-2008, 01:56 PM | #4 | |
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Quote:
I would check: 1. look at the gasket mating surface on the block and see if it is smooth where the gasket sits, if not it will leak. 2. Make sure the threaded stud in the block is tight (it is common that they loosen up). 3. The infamous double gasket. 4. to see if you are getting oil trapped on the outer lip of the filter (outside the gasket between the gasket and the edge of the filter housing) when you install it. |
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01-26-2008, 02:37 PM | #5 |
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oil filter
i use an oil fliter socket on my torque wrench when i tighten down the filter never had any problems . never tighten a fliter beyond the recogmended torque. i have no idea who the noob is who said dont tighten it down so its easier to remove the next time. that dude is a joke. its all about pressure , warpage, and possible explotions. if you care about your engine the oem filters are a joke too. use a k and n gold if you can afford it . it filters down to some insane micros . also i recogmend a magnetic drain plug to pick up any filings from cold starts and such , between changes. its either get the magnet or have filings in your brankcase!!!!! ive found one for $10 on ebay . change your oil frequently!!! im sure most people on here drive their cars hard . use the proper oil for the time of the year in your region. this is the greatest site ever!!!! http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html good reading ladys and gents.
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01-26-2008, 04:28 PM | #6 | ||
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Quote:
Hand tight doesn't mean when it contacts the surface then stop. It means what others have said in that when it contacts the surface, go 1/4 to one full turn more and no more. I've been doing it that way for years and have never had a filter leak at the seal or strip the threads. They have all been easy to come off as well with no filter wrench needed. It's fine to diseagree with what I have to say but calling me names is not cool and shows your lack of self restraint. On that note, ever hear of capital letters? Or that it's "explosions" not "explotions." Before you call someone a joke, you should at least lean how to use proper grammar and spelling. You may be from Maine but you're no Stephen King. Also, did you actually take the time to read what you posted for a link? Quote:
Last edited by PhilSine; 01-26-2008 at 04:39 PM. Reason: To quote the link that the Mainerd put up. |
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01-26-2008, 09:23 PM | #7 |
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Hand tightening is best, it prevents overtightening. If you're a torque-spec nerd, I suppose it's fine, but isn't necessary at all. Turn it by hand, no big deal. The manual does say 1 full rotation after contact. And no, contact doesn't mean when it's tightened by hand. Contact means when they touch... However, there are those "oil tech" dudes who screw it on like crazy tight, and yet have no problems. The first time I tried to get my filter off... My goodness... So really, the way you tighten it won't kill it either way. As long as it's not overtorqued like a gorilla.
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01-26-2008, 11:57 PM | #8 | |
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01-29-2008, 09:10 AM | #9 | |
Scooby Specialist
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k and n
Quote:
http://www.knfilters.com/oilfilter.htm lets look at the purolator the stock subie one is the base model . now lets look at the purolator plus , its a total knock off of the k and n one http://www.pureoil.com/ Last edited by watchunglava; 01-29-2008 at 09:11 AM. Reason: forgot something |
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01-28-2008, 08:13 PM | #10 | |
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01-26-2008, 10:36 AM | #11 |
GC84Ever
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my line of thinking also is there you may have a double gasket issue going on
it is possible for the rubber gasket to stick in place during a change, and possibly go unnoticed This is especially likely if you are using non oem oil filters |
01-26-2008, 10:41 AM | #12 |
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I second SG, and also think you should check the filter stud.
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01-26-2008, 11:38 AM | #13 |
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According to the 2007 Subaru Impreza Shop Manual you should hand tighten 1 rotation past where the seal meets the block, then using a filter wrench tighten another 2/3 - 3/4 rotation.
5) Install the oil filter by turning it by hand, being careful not to damage seal rubber. ***8226; Tighten the oil filter 68 mm (2.68 in) in diameter (approx. 1 rotation) after the seal rubber of the oil filter comes in contact with cylinder block or oil cooler. Use the 14 N·m (1.4 kgf-m, 10.3 ft-lb) torque, if the torque wrench is available. ***8226; Tighten the oil filter with 65 mm (2.56 in) in diameter further (approx. 2/3 - 3/4 rotations) after the seal rubber of the oil filter comes in contact with cylinder block or oil cooler. Use the 12 N·m (1.2 kgf-m, 8.7 ft-lb) torque, if the torque wrench is available. In other words, if you are just going hand tight you are not getting the filter tight enough. Last edited by mopartodd; 01-26-2008 at 11:43 AM. |
01-28-2008, 08:18 PM | #14 | |
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01-29-2008, 10:39 AM | #15 |
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That is how cars come from the factory. I ripped my oil filter off my 06 Tacoma when it was new, it took us almost an hour to get it off. (oil filter wrench no workey)
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01-26-2008, 11:56 AM | #16 |
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mopartodd, read that again. It says use a torque wrench if available. Those are tightening specs for 2 different sized filters. It does not say tighten, then tighten again.
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01-26-2008, 03:20 PM | #17 | |
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Quote:
You're right, but basically you are tightening it twice. Once by hand until the seal makes contact, then an additional amount of rotation or to specified torque. Hand tight is not tight enough though, regardless of how you read it. Personally, I've never had a problem when spinning it by hand as tight as I can and then 1/4 - 1/2 turn beyond that. |
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01-26-2008, 03:27 PM | #18 |
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some info on filters http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil....html#champion
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01-26-2008, 09:40 PM | #19 |
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dealer cranked the filter on my first change real tight... so tight that 6 guys tried to tag team it off in a driveway garage day... must've fought it for an hour before it came off.
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01-27-2008, 06:18 AM | #20 | |
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Quote:
Too, I've had the opposite happen. Again, another Jiffy Lube install, the filter worked loose on a roadtrip to PA. Ended up loosing close to 2 qts. of oil. Sorry WVa water supply. |
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01-27-2008, 01:44 AM | #21 |
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Anyone have diy instructions on doing oil changes yourself. I havent done it since high school but I'd like to start changing it myself.
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01-27-2008, 09:53 AM | #22 |
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^^^I worked at valvoline for 3 years back in the day. I will say a lot of people are hard on places like valvoline and jiffy lube because of stuff like that. I am not say some don't have a right to be hard on them, most of it is in the managers hands on how heshe trains the crew. Honestly some stores are pure crap because of a bad manager. I managed at least 3 stores in my time there and did not have one service failure from me or my crew. Even at the good stores there are still going to be bad days. Many of those store do 75-150 cars a day. which doesn't seem that bad for a place set up to do it. However one needs to think about where some cars have there oil filter and keep in mind when many cars get into the shop they have been there in line idling for 10-20 min or just off the freeway. Every one who works there has the scars from 400-700 degree exhaust to prove it. It is not an easy job when things are that hot, any one who doubts it try doing one on my 2 '08 forester, the cats are wrapped around the oil filter 1000 degree cat vs flesh, the flesh will just sizzle.
I was picky in my shops the crew was all trained the same way how tight to put a filter on and drain plug it. The only stripped plugs I seen where from other stores and I would re-tap them to send the customer away with a real plug not some self tapping crap or rubber stopper piece. As for filters being on tight when you do a 100+ cars a day you can get them really tight by hand with out thinking about it after a few months of doing it. There is however no excuse for a loose filter or plug or lack of oil, draining the trans and not the oil. Those shops deserve the bad rep. Would I take my own car to a so called quick lube shop, HELL NO, unless I know the manager and how he/she trains and who they hire. |
01-28-2008, 07:23 PM | #23 |
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In the owners manual it states to tighten 1 1/2 or 2 1/2 (cant recall) revolutions past hand tight. I change my own also. I couldnt fit a wrench in there but i just wrenched the hell out of it with my hand. Got it about 1 1/2 turns past tight and its good.
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01-28-2008, 07:35 PM | #24 |
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i just tighten the filter with my wrist untill i can't tighten it anymore. no elbow/shoulder involved. Have yet to have a problem with leaking or the filter not coming off.
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01-29-2008, 09:38 AM | #25 |
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new crush rings should be used every time. The OEM filters are not as ****ty as you'd think, and besides, then if one should ever fail on you, you can go straight to Subaru of America to take up your case, instead of trying to deal with a third party company. Just try getting a new engine out of them if you were running an aftermarket (and especially an over-rated "performance") oil filter. Not gonna happen. I'm not sure what it is about the K+N brand, but I trust them about as much as FRAM
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