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01-05-2013, 09:22 PM | #4351 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
I e-mailed him after Christmas and he was out of town last weekend, and then he fit me in today. Not much of a wait.
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01-05-2013, 11:33 PM | #4352 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
Looks nice xluben, quick tip for the roll pin on the linkage. If your drift punch isn't long enough use a strong screw driver with the end cut off. A #2 should fit pretty good.
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01-05-2013, 11:35 PM | #4353 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Why would anyone have that? I had the same issue with the punch and I used an appropriately sized nail. Works perfectly. You should make a thread. Your comments are just going to get buried in here and not help anyone.
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01-05-2013, 11:44 PM | #4354 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 293311
Join Date: Sep 2011
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Coast of Maine
Vehicle:2013 FXT 6-Speed Obsidian Black Pearl |
The tint looks great Ben!
How do you feel about driving it at night? Can you see okay? |
01-05-2013, 11:47 PM | #4355 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 283784
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:2015 MUSTANG GT PP GUARD |
Ah glad you chose 20%
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01-05-2013, 11:58 PM | #4356 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 327511
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Chicagoland
Vehicle:13' WRX 6 Speed 11sec VF52 EL-EWG-E85 |
tint looks great, I had 18 done and am happy so far. I think around 20 is perfect.
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01-06-2013, 12:09 AM | #4357 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Quote:
This 20% film actually meters 22% and on the car it ends up being 16%. The factory windows are actually 70% already! |
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01-06-2013, 01:12 AM | #4358 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 301089
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Parts Unknown
Vehicle:2013 Toyota Tundra Rock Warrior |
Looking good xluben
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01-06-2013, 09:28 AM | #4359 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 277514
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY
Vehicle:2012 WRX & 818R |
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01-06-2013, 11:42 AM | #4360 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Better photos of the tint (20% all around).
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01-06-2013, 01:39 PM | #4361 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 283784
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: Colorado
Vehicle:2015 MUSTANG GT PP GUARD |
Makes the car look so much better. Plus it helps with heat in the summer. Win win
Your FMIC loosing its coating? Or is it just the angle? |
01-06-2013, 02:06 PM | #4362 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
I really like how it looks. Appears very dark and nice and black. Heat isn't a big concern but it should help some. Hopefully doesn't make it too cold during winter. Lol.
The coating looks light with that lighting but it is chipping up really bad. I have a review in the review section in it. The FMS/Import Image coating is just crap. Josh said he'd swap my core but it's been many months and he always says he doesn't have any. Empty promise if you ask me. |
01-06-2013, 02:51 PM | #4363 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 327511
Join Date: Jul 2012
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Chicagoland
Vehicle:13' WRX 6 Speed 11sec VF52 EL-EWG-E85 |
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01-06-2013, 02:58 PM | #4364 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Yeah the fronts are 70% and rear are 78% from the factory. At least according to the tester that my tint guy uses. So you can basically multiply whatever your tint film is by 0.7-0.8 and get the equivalent amount.
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01-06-2013, 03:03 PM | #4365 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 277514
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NY
Vehicle:2012 WRX & 818R |
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01-06-2013, 03:28 PM | #4366 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 338150
Join Date: Nov 2012
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this car build is awesome. my build is coming together very similar of this one. except i have a '10 useing a 06 sti block and internals with weiscos. Shooting for mid/high 7's 1/8th mile on stock turbo til i swap it out.
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01-06-2013, 03:40 PM | #4367 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Quote:
Then you can upgrade your turbo and start going fast |
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01-06-2013, 09:17 PM | #4368 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 302389
Join Date: Nov 2011
Chapter/Region:
TXIC
Location: Houston
Vehicle:2011 WRX I'm a stormtrooper pewpew |
Quote:
My last day is next Saturday lol |
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01-06-2013, 09:27 PM | #4369 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
I had an interesting issue today. I'm not sure if it's common or not, but I did a search and didn't come up with anything, so I assume it's fairly rare. My clutch linkage broke!
I was driving to a family get together and I pushed the clutch in and it went straight to the floor and stayed there! I ended up in neutral at the time so I coasted along until I could get it into 1st gear and then I managed to pull into a gas station. I really had no idea what had gone wrong so I checked the slave cylinder (no movement) and then started to follow the clutch pedal along it's path and eventually noticed that it was not connected to the master cylinder at all any more. The linkage is usually connected with a rod that is held in with a cotter pin and then a plastic cap on the end. Here are the best photos I could find online: I looked around my floor mat and luckily found the rod that had fallen out. I also found the broken plastic cap, but I could not find the cotter pin. Looking at the rod, it appears the cotter pin broke off inside the hole. Unfortunately this meant I couldn't just shove a new cotter pin in there. Here's a photo of my broken linkage piece: I ended up sticking the rod back in, without the cotter pin at all, and friction seemed to hold it in well enough to drive the last few miles to where I was headed (and drop of my wife and baby). Then I borrowed a car and went out to the hardware store to see what I could find to repair it. From what I could tell the OEM part is 8mm in diameter. The only shoulder bolts they had were SAE so I got a 5/16" shoulder bolt that had a shoulder that was the same length as the OEM part. I also got a locking nut and the necessary tools (wrench and allen key) to install it. Here's a stock photo of what I bought (not the same dimensions): When I got to putting it all back together I found that there was very little space to work in there (and it was dark, I was out in the street, and I was using my cell phone as light), but I did determine that the linkage (the U shaped portion, not the rod itself) was bent about 45 degrees off from where it should have been. I think this has probably been broken for a long time and finally worked itself free. The lack of space and the bent linkage made it very hard to work, but I eventually got the bolt in and tightened down. The 5/16" diameter is just a hair small, but it's a pretty good fit. The shoulder section is much, much longer than it needs to be. Overall I think this connection method is better than the cotter pin, but I need to get the right length bolt so there isn't so much side to side play. Once I got home I bent the U linkage back to being straight, but it's still much wider than it originally was. It is all aligned so it is pushing straight on the MC rod, so I'm pretty happy with it, but I'll have to squeeze in the width once I get the shorter shoulder bolt. Here are some photos of how it currently sits: So now I just have a few questions/concerns:
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01-06-2013, 09:34 PM | #4370 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Haha. The guys at my Autozone are overly friendly and not work focused at all. And ricers, of course. It's the closest place to me, and really not all the bad, but the service is usually very slow and involves waaay too much small talk, lol.
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01-06-2013, 10:40 PM | #4371 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
I don't have experience with this exact issue but I can't see how using that shoulder bolt/lock nut would hurt anything. What I would say is to put some bearing grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts that u joint. Also tighten that lock nut enough to make sure the shoulder bolt won't spin and wear through that bracket. As far as the adjustment, I could try to peak at mine and count exposed threads. I don't know if the mods you have done to your clutch would make it any different? Hope that helps.
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01-06-2013, 11:08 PM | #4372 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Quote:
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01-07-2013, 02:12 PM | #4373 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 284420
Join Date: Jun 2011
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Lakewood, Ca
Vehicle:2011 WRX Sedan SWP |
That sounds perfect than. I would dab some grease on the shoulder bolt where it contacts the u joint even though it's probably not necessary. It might squeak later on though. Any luck with the adjustment?
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01-07-2013, 02:20 PM | #4374 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 197920
Join Date: Dec 2008
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Indiana
Vehicle:2005 Legacy GT ABP |
That honestly sounds like a better option than OEM....lol This happened to a friend's e90 335xi (with a c clip). We did a very similar thing and used a spare c clip off a wastegate I had lying in the garage.
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01-07-2013, 04:11 PM | #4375 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 261612
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Minneapolis, MN
Vehicle:2002 WRX - 750WHP 9.5s @ 150mph |
Quote:
I haven't played with the adjustment. I am hoping that the nut just backed off and the rod didn't actually rotate (which I think is likely). Then I can just tighten the nut back down and it will be fine. Yep, I think it is. I talked with some of the design group at work (I am an engineer) and they agreed with my thought that a shoulder bolt is the ideal solution. Their thought was that cotter pin was simply a cost cutting measure (same with the c-clip). |
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