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Old 07-27-2012, 11:35 AM   #1
cmiovino
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Default Timing belt service - what else?

I'm not a noob to timing belt services.. had one replaced on a '98 OBS and another on an '04 Forester.

The WRX is at 94k and has a whining coming from what I believe is the alternator pulley, but I can't confirm it 100%. It MIGHT be the timing belt, so for now I'm not driving it.

Things I'll be replacing:
Timing belt
All idlers
Tensioner
Waterpump
Thermostat
Possibly the cam and crank seals

I'll be using OEM parts... but I've seen Grimmspeed has this 160 degree thermostat. Would this be better than OEM? Anything else WRX specific I should change too?

Thanks.
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Last edited by cmiovino; 07-27-2012 at 11:44 AM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:47 AM   #2
Mishimoto
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Looks like a good list, I would also do the accessory belts as well if you have not recently.
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Old 07-27-2012, 11:49 AM   #3
cmiovino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mishimoto View Post
Looks like a good list, I would also do the accessory belts as well if you have not recently.
I actually have no idea what's done actually... Just picked her up two weeks ago

Engine appears to be in great condition, no knocking, runs super smooth... but that whining concerns me that something could break or slip. Can't be too careful down there.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:27 PM   #4
dangerousatom
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Your above mentioned bits to replace are smart in purchasing a used car .....if you have no proof they were done recently.

Im not a fan of paying extra $$$ for lower temp thermostats, but you can get it if you desire. I usualy just drill out the weep on the thermostat with a 3/16 bit to give it some extra flow....that will drop the temp a few degrees in itself.

You may need to replace the valve cover gaskets too, particularly if the cam seals are leaking now. Also when the timing covers are off inspect the oil pimp all along its contact with the block this is a none oil leak area. Its just RTV Silicon and no gasket....pull it off clean both sides and re-toque with the RTV.

The whining could be the Alt barrings starting to go. Take a rag and lightly spray it with Armor-all or something like that and as the motor is running touch it to the accessory belt on the inside where the grooves are and the sides. If the noise stops its the belt, if it doesn't stop its more then likely the Alt. To see if that's the culprit shoot the front of the Alt with WD40 behind the pulley while the motor is running. You can get the Alt barrings replaces for under $30 w/labor at any local auto-electrical repair place. ( not an autozone or pepboys ) You will know if they can do it probably in 30sec of talking to the guy behind the counter......if he is old enough to be your grandfather its a 99% yes

Last edited by dangerousatom; 07-27-2012 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:29 PM   #5
Samurai Jack
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Include the A/C idler pulley if that wasn't already part of "all idlers"

Use an OEM thermostat. It is designed to bring the engine up to normal operating temps before opening up to allow the radiator to aid in cooling.

The 160 deg unit will open sooner, taking longer for the engine to warm up.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:29 PM   #6
cmiovino
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Include the A/C idler pulley if that wasn't already part of "all idlers"

Use an OEM thermostat. It is designed to bring the engine up to normal operating temps before opening up to allow the radiator to aid in cooling.

The 160 deg unit will open sooner, taking longer for the engine to warm up.
Interesting. I didn't really think of that.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:05 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Include the A/C idler pulley if that wasn't already part of "all idlers"
How many need changed? I see there are 2 smooth ones, and 2 cogged ones. Should all be changed?

I've seen many 'kits' that include the 2 smooth ones and 1 cogged one for some reason. On my previous ones, I didn't replace any of them as they all spun smoothly. This time around, I'm going for the extra insurance.
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Old 07-27-2012, 02:08 PM   #8
projectQWKSLVR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack
Include the A/C idler pulley if that wasn't already part of "all idlers"

Use an OEM thermostat. It is designed to bring the engine up to normal operating temps before opening up to allow the radiator to aid in cooling.

The 160 deg unit will open sooner, taking longer for the engine to warm up.
I can say from experience with my GrimmSpeed thermostat, that the engine will still run warmer than 160. I usually see around 168-175. Which is just a tad lower than stock temp. This slightly lower temp helps combat the higher temperatures associated with running higher than stock boost.

Also the GrimmSpeed thermo is designed to fail in the open position. The oem thermo, well it's not. Just a little peace of mind, knowing I won't cook my aluminum engine over a $30 thermostat.

Just my .02
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Old 07-28-2012, 06:46 PM   #9
subi400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmiovino View Post
How many need changed? I see there are 2 smooth ones, and 2 cogged ones. Should all be changed?

I've seen many 'kits' that include the 2 smooth ones and 1 cogged one for some reason. On my previous ones, I didn't replace any of them as they all spun smoothly. This time around, I'm going for the extra insurance.
The full timing belt kit for a wrx should not have two toothed pulleys just one. There is also a smaller diameter pulley that goes between the tensioner and the drivers side top cam pulley.

So, in total, there are 3 smooth pulleys and 1 toothed one and then the whole tensioner/pulley. Make sure to use a bit of blue loctite as well on the bolts that fasten the pulleys to the block and torque them down to specified settings.
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Old 07-28-2012, 07:19 PM   #10
keithprochaska
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Default ac idler pulley??

Hey I just picked up a 2003 wrx and my car is making an awful chirping noise like a cricket. The guy told me that he replaced all the belts so thats not what it is, i tried tightening the ac idler pulley and the noise went away upon start up so it no longer chirps when the car is not moving but when i put it into gear and start driving it chirps. Help please, I'm new to Subaru.
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Old 07-30-2012, 08:29 AM   #11
Samurai Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by projectQWKSLVR View Post
I can say from experience with my GrimmSpeed thermostat, that the engine will still run warmer than 160. I usually see around 168-175. Which is just a tad lower than stock temp. This slightly lower temp helps combat the higher temperatures associated with running higher than stock boost.

Also the GrimmSpeed thermo is designed to fail in the open position. The oem thermo, well it's not. Just a little peace of mind, knowing I won't cook my aluminum engine over a $30 thermostat.

Just my .02
The 160 deg thermostat is not for getting the engine to run @ 160 degrees. As I said, the thermostat temp you purchase (ie; 160) is the temperature @ which the thermostat opens.

Many people run the cooler temp thermostat when they live in hot climates in an attempt to get the car to run cooler. The sooner the thermostat opens, the sooner you are circulating coolant through the radiator.

Ultimately, you will reach the same operating temp, it just takes longer on a lower temp thermostat than a higher temp thermostat.

I wouldn't want to be running a low temp thermostat in NE winters
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