|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
12-24-2007, 09:29 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 146496
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Tempe, AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX Wagon 2.1L Built not bought. #0003 |
torn cv boot...yeah baby
well as the post states i tore a cv boot, it appears that it became a tad brittle being so close to my down pipe..im not quite sure how long it has been torn, atleast 2 days thought it was my clutch burning at first, then smoke began to billowing out of the hood and thought it was the pcv valve but when i went to replace it today i realized all the fluid was actucally grease form the passenger halfshaft outer cv boot...and so i have been reading up and most say at this point its almost best to buy a whole new link, so my question is where? im sure the dealer has them but they will more then likely want and arm and a possible leg. does something like you regular napa, checker, autozone, ect have it or do i a need a specialty shop?
2nd part of question: should i replace the driverside as well or just the one side? merry christmas!!
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
|
12-24-2007, 11:54 PM | #2 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 129501
Join Date: Oct 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Mesa
Vehicle:1996 Eclipse GSX Red |
im guessing its the inner correct? i wouldnt trust autozone, id go to napa if youre trying to stay away from the dealer. the whole shaft itself should cost less than $150 and the boot assembly around $45-$55 dollars. id go with the shaft and save yourself the greasy trouble tearing apart the boot and re-packing it. theyre basically the same amount of labor.
and no you dont have to replace the other side. |
12-25-2007, 11:18 AM | #3 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 55089
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: GoodSpeed Performance
|
I'll bet the tripod bearing is still good. It's probably been open for only a short time and the grease is still good. If it's not making any noise there is no reason to replace the bearing just the boot.
Do your self a favor and get the inter boot kit from the dealer. They will fit better, maybe last longerare not that much more than aftermarket. You will for sure have to protect the new one from the heat from your downpipe, either wrap your downpipe or protect it some other way. |
12-25-2007, 11:30 AM | #4 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 98960
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:1978 brat (fo realz) red |
i see aftermarket ones leaking all the time
|
12-25-2007, 01:52 PM | #5 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 97642
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:2002 Wrx Sedan MBP |
The boot is pretty simple to replace, if you are mechanically inclined save yourself money and put on a new boot.
|
12-25-2007, 02:02 PM | #6 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 106818
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Ohio
Vehicle:2019 Ascent |
My local mechanic got me a used one just replaced it for $160 total.
|
12-26-2007, 02:15 AM | #7 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 121051
Join Date: Jul 2006
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:08 8k RPM Vtak HoNdUh |
I tore mine and ordered a new one from Hodge subaru, a vendor on subaruforester.org, got grease and new clips all for 80 over nighted and had a shop replace the outter boot for 40 dollars in flag. Mine was only torn for 100 miles and didn't think I needed to replace everything
|
12-26-2007, 02:17 AM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53142
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:06' STI,02WRX,982.5 www.Flat4lv.com |
with the right tools get a universal and do it yourself for 30$ and about 2 hours for both sides. If your over 70K miles may as well do inner and outer on both sides.
|
12-26-2007, 02:18 AM | #9 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 103776
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: BFE
Vehicle:2006 STI silver |
My 2006 Axle assy costs almost $500 from the dealer. The hardest part was remove/replace axle. Once it's off, the boot is an easy fix as long as internals are still OK.
How many miles? |
12-26-2007, 09:32 AM | #10 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 60976
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Goodyear
Vehicle:1969 LGT FATURBO |
parts and grease kit should cost around $40 at any dealer... labor is 2 hours flat rate. so depending on which dealership you get it done at your looking at anywhere from $250-$290 for the job including tax.
i hear you can buy reman axles for under $100 or something crazy like that. the passenger side inner cv boot is the most common boot too go. you can usually tell its a cv boot when you can smell the "sweet burning rubber" smell. |
12-26-2007, 01:18 PM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53142
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:06' STI,02WRX,982.5 www.Flat4lv.com |
Gotta love doing other peoples Up or Dp and seeing the mess, telling them about it, and seeing the same thing when the car is at your house a half a year later. Just with dirt crusted to the oil everywhere.
|
12-26-2007, 02:59 PM | #12 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 60976
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Goodyear
Vehicle:1969 LGT FATURBO |
lemme guess... subykid?
|
12-27-2007, 11:13 AM | #13 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 53142
Join Date: Jan 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Las Vegas
Vehicle:06' STI,02WRX,982.5 www.Flat4lv.com |
|
12-27-2007, 11:21 AM | #14 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 89202
Join Date: Jun 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: McCrackin Plumbing
Vehicle:I'm # 1 when it comes to # 2 |
yo that sucks!
i got new axles from NAPA for $66 no mess - just replace |
12-29-2007, 01:07 PM | #15 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 146496
Join Date: Apr 2007
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Tempe, AZ
Vehicle:02 WRX Wagon 2.1L Built not bought. #0003 |
sorry it took me so long to get back to this thread im also in the middle of moving so its been chaotic. but i did end up just buying the boot repair kit from the dealer for something like $50. and did the job in like 2 or so hours. its very easy, but a bit messy. and everything seems to be working just fine, just gotta burn the extra crap off my up pipe heat shield. ha but i have been recently concerned with a loud whining noise that sounds like its coming from my snowboard rack but i think it might be something a bit more serious then that, like tranny or rear axels. so i need to further look into that. but thanks for all the advice guys. oh and i have 71,500 miles on the car
|
12-31-2007, 09:43 AM | #16 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 60976
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Goodyear
Vehicle:1969 LGT FATURBO |
gratz...
|
12-31-2007, 01:13 PM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 97642
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:2002 Wrx Sedan MBP |
That is why you where the rubber surgical gloves, mess slips right off
|
03-04-2008, 02:18 PM | #18 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 96427
Join Date: Sep 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Riverside, CA
Vehicle:2010 Legacy 3.6R Pearl White |
anyone have instructions on how to remove the front axle assembly? My Cv boot ripped too and I just want to replace the axle.
|
03-04-2008, 02:24 PM | #19 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 42145
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: cruizin' down the street in my
Vehicle:6-4 jockin da bish- es and slappin the hoes. |
Quote:
The fastest way I know is to remove one of the two bolts that hold the spindle to the strut, top one I think. Once you take the bolt out, the spring pushes the spindle all the way out. |
|
03-04-2008, 02:55 PM | #20 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 103776
Join Date: Dec 2005
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: BFE
Vehicle:2006 STI silver |
That will make you need a re-alignment. I prefer to undo the lower ball joint which allows the assy to swing out. I think undoing the sway helps too.
Then, the axle will just pop out with a little pry. It goes back in with a tap from a rubber mallet to compress the clip on the axle. I would hate to do it without a lift but it is do-able. |
03-04-2008, 06:50 PM | #21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 98960
Join Date: Oct 2005
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Location: phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:1978 brat (fo realz) red |
dont forget the pin holding the axle to the transmission if you have female axles. remove the nut on the axle holding it to the hub (1 1/4 socket) an impact helps with that part. then a punch and a hammer will allow you to push the axle out of the knuckle. after that you can remove the whole axle assembly. makes it much easier to do the cv boots.
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Torn CV boot | John2.5RS | Legacy Forum | 8 | 01-03-2013 07:40 PM |
Torn CV boot.. where to get new one? | Calsoldier | Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline | 10 | 10-17-2004 10:59 AM |
Torn CV Boot question | Calsoldier | Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) | 1 | 08-27-2004 04:29 PM |
Torn CV Boot...difficult to DIY repair? | thebusiness999 | Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline | 13 | 04-15-2003 10:01 PM |
torn CV boot | RaceCarRiot | Normally Aspirated Powertrain | 5 | 09-18-2001 08:52 AM |