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Old 05-12-2013, 06:38 PM   #201
05_wRex
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Hey man. Nice build! Looks like a monster for sure.
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Old 05-12-2013, 09:55 PM   #202
manitou
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Originally Posted by 05_wRex View Post
Hey man. Nice build! Looks like a monster for sure.
Thanks man! It's a fun road car!
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:08 PM   #203
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reid-o View Post
I converted to all push to connect hoses some time ago. Just make sure to get dot approved fittings and lines it should be fine. The 1/8 npt fittings thread into the tial bov and ewg. Ebc are 1/8 npt already so it's easy.
The only thing was that I'm running a hallman mbc and needed to use barb to push to connect as I was worried about drilling the hallman for new fittings since the ball sits right at the outlet.

I tapped one fitting in the manifold and one in the upper intercooler pipe. You could easily tap the compressor outlet.

I bought most of my stuff from amazon.

One interesting benefit is that I no longer get low throttle surge from my tial. I guess the stiffer line helps the response on the blow off valve.
Quote:
Originally Posted by reid-o View Post
One last thing (sorry if you're not talking about push to connect) but you may want to grab extra 90 fittings for the distribution block. The fittings are cheap if you get them from Parker or Legris etc.. Although the lines have high heat rating, they don't like to be bent and can get soft if you put too much bend in them. You want to reduce as much bend in them as possible. I used straight fittings at first and just made the lines really long to keep the bends from kinking but it looked ugly. I later thought it through more and bought 90s for some places. Having a few extra fittings of straight and 90s just makes it easier as you plan it out.
Thanks for the suggestions reid! I think 1/8" NPT is going to work on all my stuff. My plan is to centralize distribution and clean things up, I'll take some time to lay things out. I know the tubing is pretty hard and inflexible. I also hate to run out of stuff when trying to complete a project and I like to build in some contingencies! I also know you need to use the brass/ nickel plates connectors on the turbo and gate or anything near heat.

I also like hearing about the LT surge defeat aspect!
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:23 AM   #204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Thanks for the suggestions reid! I think 1/8" NPT is going to work on all my stuff. My plan is to centralize distribution and clean things up, I'll take some time to lay things out. I know the tubing is pretty hard and inflexible. I also hate to run out of stuff when trying to complete a project and I like to build in some contingencies! I also know you need to use the brass/ nickel plates connectors on the turbo and gate or anything near heat.

I also like hearing about the LT surge defeat aspect!
You can get it nickel plated and even in stainless.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/def...lickid=popcorn
http://www.amazon.com/Legris-Stainless--Connect-Fitting-Degree/dp/B00ANVQF8W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422466&sr=8-3&keywords=legris+push+connect+stainlesshttp://www.amazon.com/Legris-3609-04-11-Nickel-Plated/dp/B00ANVPEV6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1368422436&sr=8-13&keywords=legris+push+connect
I just ordered a gang of them using amazon prime. You can get the hose there too. After looking around industrial suppliers, I found amazon to be well priced.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:52 AM   #205
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Thanks for that. Parker makes nice stuff too.

Question though - i didnt see any tubing on those websites. What is the technical term for it? Push lock tube??
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:55 AM   #206
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Nice to see details done right. Well played!
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:32 AM   #207
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What lines are you using? I have used tons of those fittings/lines for paintball, but it's all rated close to 1000psi operating pressure so it's very stiff. I would think you would want something much more flexible for routing in the engine bay. I might have to buy some of the smaller fittings and lines and try that out sometime!
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:47 AM   #208
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I love my 07 sti to death but id LOVE to have one of these. Tons of power and lots of room so i can do errands with it. Its the best of both worlds, plus it looks sick. Run to home depot and pick up some wood and race a porsche on the way home. lol
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:27 AM   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
What lines are you using? I have used tons of those fittings/lines for paintball, but it's all rated close to 1000psi operating pressure so it's very stiff. I would think you would want something much more flexible for routing in the engine bay. I might have to buy some of the smaller fittings and lines and try that out sometime!
Yeaht the push to connect lines are not very flexible..
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:25 AM   #210
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Some of the nylon 11 air brake tubing in 1/4" has a bend radius of 1", the 5/16" has a bend radius of 1 1/4", temps to 200*F and 150 psi. I don't know what brand Angel has been using but it's clean and very neat installation. I'll see if I can get some photos.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:30 AM   #211
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That's not too bad. The stuff I'm used to is like hard plastic and probably has a 1 foot bend radius.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:41 AM   #212
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhahn1012 View Post
Nice to see details done right. Well played!
Thanks! We try to do things right!

Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
What lines are you using? I have used tons of those fittings/lines for paintball, but it's all rated close to 1000psi operating pressure so it's very stiff. I would think you would want something much more flexible for routing in the engine bay. I might have to buy some of the smaller fittings and lines and try that out sometime!
I think you mean 1000 psi burst rating at 70* F. There are all kinds of plastic tubing; nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyurethane and I need to find out what the best one is for our application and what my buddy has been using. It needs to be oil and fuel, uv and heat resistant. I will dig into this more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Slimsti View Post
I love my 07 sti to death but id LOVE to have one of these. Tons of power and lots of room so i can do errands with it. Its the best of both worlds, plus it looks sick. Run to home depot and pick up some wood and race a porsche on the way home. lol
Haha, thanks! It's pretty fast and functional. The family truckster, board and bike hauler, time attack, dragster, get to the store in a hurry mobile! It cleans up pretty well too.

Last edited by manitou; 05-13-2013 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:02 AM   #213
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Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I think you mean 1000 psi burst rating at 70* F. There are all kinds of plastic tubing; nylon, polyethylene, polypropylene, polyurethane and I need to find out what the best one is for our application and what my buddy has been using. It needs to be oil and fuel, uv and heat resistant. I will dig into this more.
The paintball stuff is typically nylon. You can get it with 1,000psi burst pressure, but it's also very common for it to have 3,000+ psi burst and 1,000+ psi working pressure.

Typically the tanks will fill to 4,500psi and output at about 850psi, so the 1,000psi working pressure is needed. And hence why it is so stiff. Here's an example:

http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/mercha..._Code=FITTINGS

I find it funny when people talk about 20, 30, 40psi as being "high pressure"

Mainly it's just a much more complex system with way more leak points, and OEM components not designed to handle nearly that much. With a proper setup, holding boost shouldn't be an issue. Although super flexy vacuum lines are nice to work with
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:29 AM   #214
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Ive seen and used those too.. i have rhe paintball lines on my coolant overflow / windshield washer tank just as a sight window... like you said... stiff.

Macro lines is what they call them in paintball, but i like the idea of what Manitou was saying a 1" bend radius
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Old 05-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #215
manitou
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xluben View Post
The paintball stuff is typically nylon. You can get it with 1,000psi burst pressure, but it's also very common for it to have 3,000+ psi burst and 1,000+ psi working pressure.

Typically the tanks will fill to 4,500psi and output at about 850psi, so the 1,000psi working pressure is needed. And hence why it is so stiff. Here's an example:

http://www.airsoldier.com/mm5/mercha..._Code=FITTINGS

I find it funny when people talk about 20, 30, 40psi as being "high pressure"

Mainly it's just a much more complex system with way more leak points, and OEM components not designed to handle nearly that much. With a proper setup, holding boost shouldn't be an issue. Although super flexy vacuum lines are nice to work with
Wow, yeah that's what I call high pressure for sure. Now I see why you said that tubing was stiff in inflexible. High pressure is the criteria there. With our cars it's more about heat, oil and fuel resistance, so the stuff to use is a PTFE/ polypropylene tubing, it's white and 6mm OD.

The stuff that Angel's been using is from Vibrant and the wastegate kit cost to me is under $40 and uses nickle plated brass fittings, 90 and straight and a PTFE blended polypropylene tubing in a 6mm OD., rated to -292degF to 500degF @ 100psi, withstands cryogenic to 700degF+. I will get some photos from him today of the install on the 06 STI with the cosworth manifold as post them up here.
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:12 PM   #216
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You can bend it. It's not that bad. Just don't bend it too much near the wastegate. That's all.
It just doesn't route well like silicone hose but it does bend. The temp rating isn't super important in most of the ports as most tubing has a higher heat rating than silicone hose. 250 doesn't sound like much but some silicone hose has lower heat rating. You can get higher ratings too but you don't need it for every line run:
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Old 05-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #217
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Also, although the 6mm hose fits the 1/4 fittings, it doesn't typically fit the ones that have a collar in the center. It is also a tad smaller. i would just stay standard and get 1/4 line and 1/4 fittings.

Don't over think it too much. The reason I like the push to connect line is that once seated it won't leak as a silicone hose might without a good zip tie or hose clamp on it providing uneven clamping force. It can leak if you dont cut the push connect perpendicular but you really have to cut it at an angle and mangle the end for that to happen.

I made a post about this in the built motor section awhile back and got people asking questions about why I would do it or what's the use. I just think it's easier to work with. I just keep extra line in the trunk and at home. I like not having to worry if I put fuel injection clamps on my silicone hoses.

Coming from the EVO world, I'm a tad scarred about forgetting to check all vacuum hoses etc. Subys don't run nearly the same pressures for the most part, but Ive blown enough headgaskets on the 4g63 for really stupid stuff like one line coming off the fuel pressure regulator even with clamps. The push to connect just removes my reid-tardation from the mix.
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Old 05-13-2013, 08:59 PM   #218
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reid-tardation

those.must have been in years past, cause you've been way helpful.
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:02 PM   #219
manitou
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^^ hahaha, I understand the reid-tardation. I can be the biggest spaz sometimes, I tend to multi task a bit too much and then have to back track to make sure I button stuff up. I've gotten better as I've got older but I get caught up in stuff.

I'm looking forward to putting this together. I will keep some extra fittings and hose in the trunk. I'm only going to use the ptfe version around the turbo for the waste gate and compressor/ EBCS lines. The other areas I will use the black poly tube. I think I'm going to use the metal connector fittings for all the 90's, T's and straight's regardless of what tube.

Thanks for the follow up on your experience with the push to connect stuff!

Last edited by manitou; 05-13-2013 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:51 PM   #220
manitou
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Well had some issues with doing the DSS axle bar replacements. Left rear outer cv joint c clip and spline were bunged up and we couldn't get that apart, the boot was intact but the cv joint was full of water. I suspected a problem there and this confirmed it. Now going with the 800 HP bolt in rear axles instead and the level 5 front axles. Then I'll be done with that.....for a while! Lol!!

It looks like I picked up some front tire clearance with the Ohlins and the Com C top hats and custom TH spacers I made. That and almost 7* positive caster!! We'll see how the alignment comes out.

I also need to add some 1/4" wheel spacers at the rear, so we're going with ARP extended studs and new bearings all around. It's no wonder my car drives like a new car!! Every time I do a project I end up replacing all the old stuff with new!

I'll post up some pics later.

Last edited by manitou; 05-25-2013 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:08 PM   #221
manitou
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Oh yeah, got the new Torque Solutions motor, trans and pitch stop mounts installed yesterday. They fit perfectly!

Hopefully we'll have the drive line and suspension all buttoned up early next week, then the wheel alignment done!
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Old 05-25-2013, 11:19 PM   #222
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Oh man its gonna feel so tight and a lot louder. I need to get some new motor mounts my motor cranks sideways hard if u get on it. It's bad.
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Old 05-26-2013, 08:20 AM   #223
manitou
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Oh man its gonna feel so tight and a lot louder. I need to get some new motor mounts my motor cranks sideways hard if u get on it. It's bad.
My group n mounts were still in good shape but I'm sure these will tighten it up some. I hope I don't get a bunch more NVH!
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:07 AM   #224
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Let me know a price on that stuff , rich might want em
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Old 05-26-2013, 09:30 AM   #225
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Let me know a price on that stuff , rich might want em
Angel gave me a good price! I'll shoot you and email.
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