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Old 02-20-2014, 04:30 PM   #501
Element Tuning
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpongeBobSquarePants View Post
Thanks I am a customer. Tony from Jersey with the pro comp your building for me. Can't wait....
Seems ether aren't too many folks out there who are competent with this ems system. Why do you think that is?
Don't worry we'll just load your Hydra EMS with the a base map specific to our engine package. We have more time on some other injectors for the newer engines that are better but we'll have something close for those injectors.

I would say most tuners aren't calibrator level so handing over this much control requires a higher level of skilled tuning. Now when a customer has a nearly identical setup to a base map we offer, it's a piece of cake for any tuner. This is what they are used to doing, not having to tune up from nothing close so I really try to steer people to a setup we've had a tuned map for.

Think about it the Hydra has 1032 load cells compared to like 600 (because it can go to 45 psi out of the box), has quad variable cam control, with trims for each cam to balance them out (along with closed loop level control so you have programming level control of how much or how fast the Hydra reacts to errors in targeting), it has multiple closed loop fuel control maps for if you're on pump gas, race, or E85, multiple starting maps for the different fuels, multiple boost levels and compensation maps for the various fuels, specific DBW controls with lower and upper limits (all this helps make a car run better than OEM when it has ported, big valved, and big cam'ed heads), individual cylinder knock detection and control.......the list goes on and on. You're average tuner just wants to load a base map, tweak the fuel curve and send you away in an hour with an engine that stalls at every traffic light, lopes the idle like crazy, hesitates at part throttle, and makes you feel like the car you spent $30k modifying is a piece of junk

Now with that said I have so many customers that tune themselves and they love it but they are willing to put the time into going through all the maps and learning what they do instead of limiting themselves to a 1 hour dyno session. I'm up front with people about the tuning and if you want the gold standard (Me) you're going to end up spending $800-1000 on tuning for two different fuels. These are cars dropped off with me and I drive them to and from the shop so I can get stuck in traffic, I can cruise on the highway, and I make sure it starts when it's 10 degrees outside. Once I'm done with that then we hit the dyno for a couple of hours. Most people end up taking my advice and running parts we have excellent base maps for and they usually end up with $600 in tuning.

It's been said before the the lastest 2.7 Hydra software is super user friendly, easy to use, and intuitively laid out, unlike older versions. So if opinions were formed with the 2.1-2.5 Hydras then I get it, it took more expertise in the actual software to tune but now it's easy!
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Old 02-21-2014, 10:03 AM   #502
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Well said Phil!
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Old 02-21-2014, 11:03 AM   #503
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I agree 100% with that. Most people are afraid of how much it can do and how much has to be setup. When I supercharged my SVX Hydra was the only plug and play option for me so I got a new 2.7 and after getting used to it I am very happy that it was my only option. I don't know enough about tuning to get it locked in perfect but I've managed to get running and drivable on its own and after Phil gets to tune it this spring it should be amazing.
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Old 02-21-2014, 03:55 PM   #504
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TireIron View Post
I agree 100% with that. Most people are afraid of how much it can do and how much has to be setup. When I supercharged my SVX Hydra was the only plug and play option for me so I got a new 2.7 and after getting used to it I am very happy that it was my only option. I don't know enough about tuning to get it locked in perfect but I've managed to get running and drivable on its own and after Phil gets to tune it this spring it should be amazing.
That's great! I want to get my hands on that SVX motor and tune it right. We have many customers with the EG33 but they have all been end user tuned and not by me. I've personally only tuned the EZ30 and the EZ30R variants so SVX base maps currently are really just that, base maps. So if you got it running decently, good on you!

I want to make this clear to any customers, potential customers, or tuners, and that is, I'm here to help you tune the Hydra EMS and not to judge your abilities. Its only in my best interest that Hydra cars get tuned properly and that the tuner or end user understands how certain maps work. There are many, many tuners I've worked with that call me and ego is never a problem but unfortunately there are many out there that "know it all" and won't ask for my help and they will just tell you that your car sucks or the Hydra sucks and you need to buy an XXXX. It has been on more than one occasion I have flow out of state on my own dime to prevent people from getting suckered into buying a new EMS when it was just some simple tuning mistakes.

Now the latest Hydra firmware and software has a built in "help" menu so if you are unclear about what a map does, just click the "help" button and it will explain the maps function and how to tune it. We often progress the software faster than the "help" menu but it's mostly complete now.

Anyways just call and odds are I've already experienced the "problem" and could save someone time, frustration, and money!
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Old 02-28-2014, 03:15 PM   #505
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Nvmd.

Last edited by Purpose_Built; 03-10-2014 at 07:40 PM.
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Old 03-30-2014, 12:49 PM   #506
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Unhappy Hydra Nemesis 2/5

I bought a 2003 wrx that was been heavily modified. It has a hydra nemesis 2.5 system. Of course, I do not have the software for it and am currently have problems with the engine. My better half spoke with Phil and he said to just go online and someone might have the software program you can just download free so we can get it hooked up and see what's going on. However, I cannot find the program searching through google for the life of me.
Any ideas where I can download the 2.5 software?
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:20 PM   #507
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:21 PM   #508
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Have a Nice Day?

Thanks! So I downloaded itd. This sounds really dumb but will the screen open up once its connected to the computer? I have never messed with one of these before. I am so a newbie its crazy. we replaced the spark plugs, and fuel injectors. If its not the computer gone bad, it must be a bad coil.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:22 PM   #509
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It will open regardless.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:23 PM   #510
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found the adapter for usb in the console. waiting for it to upload the files. crossing fingers! Thank you so much for assisting me. Its frustrating when something happens to your car and you don't know what to do.

Last edited by JonesMT; 03-30-2014 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:24 PM   #511
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You need a usb to serial convertor. Best thing would be a pcmcia serial card.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:41 PM   #512
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You need a usb to serial convertor. Best thing would be a pcmcia serial card.
It had a cord that was usb on one side and that funky gaming looking connector on the other end. It currently tried to upload but it threw a code 10 and this device cannot start. then again, I don't have the key turned over to power anything up.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:17 PM   #513
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okay so now I don't know what to do about the program. I turned the key to get power to check for leaks in the new injectors. that should have been enough to get the program to upload on the computer and it still has the error code I mentioned. Does that mean there is something wrong with the ems?
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:24 PM   #514
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There is no icon for hydra nemesis so I went to control panel and tried to open the usb to serial cable COM4 and it has the option of trouble shoot. When I click on it, it says to reinstall the driver to fix?
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:31 PM   #515
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Its in the program directory. I will pm you.

Please note you should look into the Hydra 2.7. Phil from Element Tuning is on here. You can pm or email him for future upgrade paths for the Hydra 2.5

Last edited by west_minist; 03-30-2014 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:08 PM   #516
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How can I verify the configuration of a used hydra? STI, WRX, dbw etc

I have the serial id number
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Old 04-30-2014, 03:20 PM   #517
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I know this is a strange request. But does anyone have a GOOD picture of the accessory harness showing the wires on the relay side and how they are wired into the 6-pin connector? I've got some issues with my FFS harness and I just need to see how it looked before it's been changed around.
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Old 07-08-2014, 10:17 PM   #518
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I'm trying to track down a possible coil pack issue and would prefer to not have to buy 6 new ones. Is there a way to check for cylinder misfires with the 2.7 like the OEM ECU can do?
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:59 AM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TireIron View Post
I'm trying to track down a possible coil pack issue and would prefer to not have to buy 6 new ones. Is there a way to check for cylinder misfires with the 2.7 like the OEM ECU can do?


The OEM batch fires the ignition on that engine so it's not likely going to know which actual coil pack is bad. The 2.7 Hydra does fire the ignition sequentially however and it also has individual cylinder knock detection.
Often, almost always, misfires are picked up as engine noise and therefore also record as "knock" so you might be able to check with the Hydra 2.7 which cylinder is showing more knock voltage and focus there.

The only potential issue is that the latest Hydra 2.7 software isolates "knock" into the combustion timing window detonation can occur only. This has improved the accuracy of the knock control system immensely and really eliminates false knock often occurring with "loud" engines. It's possible that may affect it picking up misfires but I would think misfires would occur in the same range as knock.

-Andrew @ Element Tuning
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Old 08-13-2014, 01:31 PM   #520
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Can we still update 2.5 hardware to 2.7 hardware? hydraems dosent list this as an option anymore
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Old 08-15-2014, 11:24 AM   #521
Element Tuning
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Yes you can upgrade the 2.5 Hydra to 2.7 but if you have a drive by wire application you would also have to purchase the current drive by wire circuit board as part of the upgrade (+$350).
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:00 AM   #522
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I've got a slight issue.

It's a 2005 STI with a Hydra 2.6, built motor yada yada all the usual stuff. A/C Removed. If you need a detailed mod list then let me know, but I'm not sure if it's applicable to this problem.

Once I get the car warmed up, start driving and come to stoplights and such, the idle sits around 2100 RPMs and stays there. It doesn't come down and then rev up, just if you are coming to a stop and clutch-in it'll drop to 2100 RPM and just sit there. Doesn't seem to surge.

In the past, I believe it would come back down after a minute of idling or if I gave the engine a couple small revs it would seem to come back down gradually. Lately though, maybe because it's summer here in NJ, it doesn't come back down. I think the car typically idles around 1200 RPM.

I've been running this Hydra 2.6 for a number of years now. No real modifications have been made to the car in some time. Last things I did were installing an oil cooler and putting a larger radiator in. Maybe the issue is related to the temperatures the Hydra is seeing? The motor does tend to run pretty cool now (170-180) on stretches of open road with no stopping but will warm up to around 200 in traffic. I'm fairly certain the idle issue was happening even before I added the additional cooling.

I don't have a log of it happening I don't think. Car runs great other then this warm idle issue. Figured I'd ask first and see if there is any basic stuff I can check. Wasn't able to find information via internet searching.

Appreciate any help. Thanks.
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Old 08-28-2014, 09:42 AM   #523
Element Tuning
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It's possibly a couple things so check these out or make these changes.

If you've removed the AC but have "auto climate, defrost, or AC" on but no compressor it can go into a high idle as it's anticipating the drag of a compressor. Go to your settings 2/auxiliary inouts and turn "off" the AC Request High.

Over time the throttle and pedal sensors for the drive by wire wear out. This changes the throttle calibration. And if the throttle calibration is off in the Hydra it will never turn on the idle circuit. This outs the throttle at its resting point which typically has the car idling around 2000 rpm. Just run the TPS/PPS calibration again or even just add +2 to the closed pedal cal. So if it's 38, change it to 40.

Those would be the above tuning items that could have changed. If the closed pedal value reads 0% on your real time display and its still in high idle with the AC off, I would look for a vacuum leak from the PCV line or something.

Thanks,
Phil Grabow
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:21 PM   #524
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Well I'm having a rather frustrating time.

I had forgotten that I formatted my laptop some time ago that I used for connecting to the ECU and had the software on it etc.

So I've been trying to set this up again and am running into problems.

First Question:
It's a Hydra 2.6. Should I use the 2.6 software or will the 2.7 software work?

Edit: Sigh. I guess I'm a blind idiot or something because the 2.6 stuff is indeed in the directory. Removed other questions for the moment.

Update: Alright! Wasn't able to find the TPS/PPS calibration but I did find the closed pedal cal and gave it a +2 and that seemed to do the trick. I think it might need an additional +1 as it still did it once (out of 8 or so stops) afterwards.

Not sure why I didn't try it before but while I was messing with this and it was sitting at 2000 RPM I pulled up on the throttle pedal with my foot and that made it go back to down to 1000. So it is indeed the pedal sensor getting worn out and needs a bigger deadzone so to speak. Is running the calibration a better way to address this rather then tacking on +3 to the closed pedal cal? If so then I will go back and try to find that.

Thanks for the help Phil!

Last edited by TheLadiesMan; 08-28-2014 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 08-28-2014, 08:18 PM   #525
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When you get to the throttle settings you need to go into the menus above for the automatic calibrations. I would run the auto calibrations but I often find on 2.6 I need to add a +2 buffer. The PPS cal is different from the TPS cal (pedal position vs throttle position) so just do it over again.

Use 2.6 software.

Buy yourself an FTDi-USB adapter from Sabrent. You can get one on Amazon for less than $20 and it's ideal. Most usb adapters are "prolific" and it won't really work well if at all.
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